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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Tea works, but is acidic and will rot the fabric in time. Dylon dyes are compatible for mixing.
  2. druxey
    One hoy plan I've seen states that the tank was to be of cedar, fastened with copper and with four compartments.
  3. druxey
    To prevent curling, dampen the front of the blank when gluing up thin pieces. I'd still clamp them as well, as illustrated.
  4. druxey
    Looks good, but do the aft cant frames really run down all the way to the keel? Usually they sit on a stepped or curved ledge on the deadwood. This also applies, to a lesser extent, on the fore cant frames at the forefoot.
  5. druxey
    That forecastle is a forest of timbers! Nice going, but I'd tend to agree with Giampiero.
  6. druxey
    Aliphatic (yellow) glue might be preferable, as it is more water-resistant.
  7. druxey
    This is the usual method of traditional gilding, David. These days gesso comes ready-mixed as an acrylic-based compound. Art stores are a source for gesso. For a highly reflective finish, rabbitskin glue is good, but it is important to have a dust and blemish-free surface. For a slightly duller finish, use gilders' varnish. At small scale, a highly reflective surface obscures fine detail, but it's a matter of personal taste.
  8. druxey
    The boards are a parallogram in cross-section. If you have a saw with a tilting arbor, this should be an easy job.
  9. druxey
    I was trying to avoid going there.... The moderators may shut you down.
  10. druxey
    Do you mean the Caroll A Deering? She was a five masted schooner lost with all hands in 1921 under circumstances that have never been definitely explained.
  11. druxey
    One can never have too many clamps.... Looks like you are making good progress, Maurys.
  12. druxey
    Did anyone say this was easy stuff? It's a big commitment and a big learning curve. But you are obviously on your way. Those are rather large nuts/weights you are using! Or is your model smaller than I'm visualizing?
  13. druxey
    Lovely cathead detail!
  14. druxey
    The Beaver's Prize draught is contemporary and, one presumes, 'taken off' accurately for the Admiralty. Therefore rectangular (or almost rectangular) lights were representative of her as captured. Note that the timberheads above are angled inward. Therefore the counter timbers were angled at the level of the deck above the lights. For a model, these might be easier added as separate items later on. Remember that Hahn did stylize his models, this being one example.
  15. druxey
    I suspect the variations in rig may be the result of these smaller vessels being built in private yards around the coast, and may reflect regional differences.
  16. druxey
    Small point, Patrick: most model hull reconstructions of this time are too deep at the stern. The transom's lowest point should be just under the waterline. If it's any lower, then the rudder action is impaired as water won't flow past the upper rudder properly. Check the Baker drawings.
  17. druxey
    Mark: often Seaforth and the NIP both publish the same book under their own imprint, but on different sides of the Atlantic.
  18. druxey
    Very nicely rendered, but there are usually two reef points to every width of canvas.
  19. druxey
    Lovely brasswork. However, it sounds like an extremely frustrating week for you. As a character in a Feydeau farce says, "A reverse today - a revenge tomorrow!" Hopefully the reassembly will go correctly and smoothly.
  20. druxey
    Or proportionally re-size the spars.
  21. druxey
    Nicely proportioned belaying pins, Chuck!
  22. druxey
    Nice link, Bob! Thank you.
  23. druxey
    Primer is a good idea.
  24. druxey
    Very nicely thought through, Frank, with a great result!
  25. druxey
    I see this question has been floating around a while. A similar class would be the Cruizer class. The rigging and sail details are given in Petrejus' book 'Irene', if you can get a copy on the used book market.

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