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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Very impressive miniature forging work, Giampiero! I've also had good results by flattening bent copper wire for the 'U' part of the hinge.
  2. You wrote: It would need to keep the diameter proportional to the longer mast of 60' because the stresses from the quarterdeck partners would still be the same regardless of whether hold or lower deck stepped. ​Stresses would surely be greater if the mast were stepped on the lower deck, as the leverage exerted on it would be greater? (Proportional length of mast above and below the partners, the latter being the fulcrum.)
  3. I can't speak for softwoods, but I've had no issues with isopropanol on Castello or other hardwoods. Heat will speed up the debonding process for sure, but alcohol alone does the trick. All you need is a little patience while it works through the joint.
  4. Looks good. However, I've found that one can run into problems by planking from the sheer strake downward. Getting either the garboard in last, or a shutter strake at scale size, is very difficult. I recommend starting at the garboard and working upward.
  5. We all make mistakes and makeovers, no matter how experienced. As for raised grain, you don't need water to de-bond white or yellow glue. Use 95% or 99% isopropanol. The lack of water content in it will prevent this.
  6. Looking at that close-up of the draught, surely there would be reinforcing carlings and pillars under a mizzen stepped on the lower deck? There is no trace of any that I can see.
  7. You might want to read the planking tutorials pinned on this site.
  8. Well, for a mizen of 14" diameter, the length should be 60' 0" (naval) or 61' 0" (merchant), according to Steel who is, admittedly a little later than Endeavour. But that give you the 10' 0" differential in length you had mentioned.
  9. What does the mizen diameter at the partners measure on the draughts that you have, Dashicat?
  10. Nice to see you back at the workbench, Siggi! I'm looking forward to see this model progress.
  11. One further thought: Measure the diameter of the mizen on the NMM (RMG) draughts. Extrapolating from that, what would be the mizen lower mast length? Perhaps that will settle the question for you.
  12. I'm sure that there were exceptions in 1768, Dashicat. However, if you look at contemporary plans, generally you will only see mizen steps on the lower deck from the mid-1780's onward. Check out ships' plans images on the Royal Museums Greenwich web site.
  13. The mizen mast was stepped on the keelson until late in the 18th century. I suspect Endeavour was stepped in this earlier style. It is irritating that contemporary draughts all omit showing any mast steps!
  14. Nice result, Frank. You might wish to back up the clamp with a scrap of hardwood to prevent tear-out on the drill exiting.
  15. Lovely looking and great progress, Albert. If you are planning on planking the lower counter, it's easier to do this before adding the wale planking.
  16. To stiffen SilkSpan, dilute acrylic paint or matt medium - no need for nasty organic volatiles!
  17. Well, I hope that the charges are inert! Neat solution to the problem of unscrewing the fuses without damaging them. Well done.
  18. I am reminded of an anecdote about Oscar Wilde. In company one evening, he made one of his witty remarks. Someone laughed and said "I wish I'd thought of that!" Oscar replied, "Oh, you will, you will!" I'll think of cutting bands to exact length that way soon, Ed.
  19. Cutting the bands to length using your method is a brilliant idea, Ed! Thank you.
  20. SilkSpan is very flexible and strong when wetted for shaping, Dick.
  21. I've used SilkSpan for sails and flags. There is a booklet on this technique from SeaWatchBooks: Swan, Volume IV, Sailmaking Supplement that may help.
  22. I think, while you are correct, Michael, in saying the damp towel will expand the wood; once the humidity level returns to ambient, the wood will shrink back again. This treatment is only a temporary fix, unfortunately.
  23. Interesting conundrum, Bill. Two out of three sources don't show this port. The VdV and Boston images look more accurately rendered than the Payne.... The more forward-pointing catheads of that era look as if they would be almost immediately above such a port, if it existed. My inclination would be to omit it. However, its's your model, your call! Beautiful work again, Bill. It's nice to see the head of your model finally being populated!
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