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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Much better, Gary! If you hadn't adjusted that, all the gallery work above would have been thrown off. Provided that all the work above is parallel to what you have now, all should be well.
  2. Nicely done, Rusty. You'll never want to go back to forcing plank strips again! And the result looks lovely.
  3. Quite the clamp and drilling set-up you had there! Ingenuity knows no limits....
  4. You make it look so easy, as if you installed these knees at a rate of two per minute!
  5. After you get used to a little more fussiness in preparing (such as fitting the faces of the pieces to be joined to each other) you will be amazed at the strength of a silver soldered joint vs a soft soldered one. It is well worth learning to silver solder.
  6. The rods of the lower deck pumps pass through the boxes of the middle deck pumps. Rhodings (bearings) would support the rods here. There would not be wheels inside the boxes at lower deck level. The normal drive mechanism would be under the hoods at middle deck level. The only difference between the 'short' and 'long' pumps would be the boxes with their discharge dales and longer chains of the latter.
  7. OK, I bite! There is one level of discharge - at lower deck level - for the one pair of pumps. It would be reasonable not to have to raise bilge water any higher than necessary to discharge it. The first deck above water level was the lower gun deck. Hence the cisterns and brakes (cranks) to work these pumps placed here. The other set of pump tubes continue one deck higher - the middle deck - to terminate at their upper end in the usual cisterns and cranks. However, on their way up, there are boxes at lower deck level that the chains pass through. This would allow water to discharge at this level as well. However, the pumps were worked one deck higher: more men could be employed on both set of pumps this way. Again, less effort would be required to raise water only as far as the lower deck level, rather than all the way up to the middle deck. Does this make sense?
  8. Cutting and fitting around those pump tubes is very tricky. Looking good so far!
  9. To turn those stanchions on a Unimat is very impressive! For anyone who's not tried this, you should know that it's an Olympic level piece of turning. The silver-soldered rings are also gold medal standard. Well done, Alex.
  10. Hmm. You could either omit the knee altogether, or fit a knee that is sectioned (i.e. thin) that is cut flush to the end of the model. Does that make sense?
  11. If I understand you correctly; the hanging knee (if you fit it) will fay flush over the inner planking, not interrupt it. Nice work on the carlings and ledges!
  12. Nice discussion, gentlemen! It's this kind of exchange that makes MSW a class act.
  13. As she was a knock-about merchant ship, I doubt if she was actually painted at all!
  14. Cats and models do not mix! Repeat this until either you or your cat understands.
  15. If stropping a block to a yard, the strop is not continuous. It has a small loop or 'ear' at each end instead. These ears go around the yard and a lashing is made between the two ears to hold the assembly to the yard. Otherwise, the part around and below the block looks like the pictures that have been posted.
  16. I believe that the straps taper in thickness, and that the scores taper out from maximum on the stern post to zero on the planking.
  17. Without wishing to hijack this thread, David B, in brief I'd recommend Lee Valley's (Veritas Tools) sharpening jig, stone pond and water stones.
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