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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Please, if you are extracting solvent vapour, you MUST have a sparkless fan motor!
  2. druxey
    You'll never go back to basswood now! Enjoy working with quality wood.
  3. druxey
    Mark: sorry that I'm late in on this conversation. Read the three tutorials on lining out and spiling on this site before you go too far. Under 'Building, framing, planking and plating...."
  4. druxey
    In the Chicago area, you will need to frame, insulate, vapour barrier and drywall the perimeter for sure. You are probably right in calling in a qualified contractor to do all this properly. I have a laminate floor over a cushioned insulating barrier on concrete and this has worked well for me. I do some sawing, etc. in the basement: a shop vac and suitable hook-ups to machine tools are necessary (see Lee Valley). In addition I have a ceiling mounted fine dust filtration system. No complaints from my Admiral.
  5. druxey
    I have no idea, Alex, but suspect from its appearance that it is less than 50 years old.
  6. druxey
    Alex: although the Royal George model in your link is beautifully crafted, it is a modern interpretation. Apart from the nibbed plank ends, the butts on two adjacent stakes would never be placed on adjacent beams. This would be a weak construction technique. When researching "How was it really done?", always study the remaining historical records. Modern interpretations, however well made, can be very misleading. Of course, if accuracy is not an issue for you, ignore what I've written!
  7. druxey
    Good stuff, Alex! I'll be over with a suitably sized joint of meat soon.
  8. druxey
    Terrific! When is the first barbecue?
  9. druxey
    Your metalwork is beautifully executed, Alex. Will the stove have a chain-driven spit as well?
  10. druxey
    Welcome back, Doris, and congratulations on a stunning model! I'm sure many of us were wondering what and how you were doing. I hope your new work is satisfying and will allow you time to continue to create more outstanding models. Dobri!
  11. druxey
    Sorry, Robin: it is the lights that can be hinged up and aft for ventilation. The sections of the bulkhead would be struck for cable handling in this case. I apologize for any confusion.
  12. druxey
    If it's 18th century you are after, the book suggested above is The Fully Framed Model, Volume IV, published by SeWatchBooks. That gives you all the detail you'll ever want for the period 1760 to about 1785.
  13. druxey
    For cable handling, the bulkhead panels would be hinged up under the forecastle against the beams, Robin.
  14. druxey
    Good advice, Pete, and very nice chairs!
  15. druxey
    Funny how doing things for a second time always seems to go faster. You did save this now, didn't you?
  16. druxey
    Nicely done. I feel my own method much inferior now; I simply hold the pieces up to the window (daytime) or task light (night)!
  17. druxey
    Nice looking bulkhead, Toni, although I was puzzled that you applied a comedian to both sides of the basswood. Perhaps you meant to type 'Castello'?
  18. druxey
    Well done, Bob.
  19. druxey
    I would think that deadlights that swing up would be more likely. The more elaborate hidden sliding versions would be for Admiral's quarters on a first rate!
  20. druxey
    Interesting question. Steel (1794) states that the ratlines only go across every 6th lower shroud. However, contemporary models show all the ratlines going all the way across.
  21. druxey
    Tom's idea is a good one, but I'd try this out on a sample of fabric before you make a whole suit of sails, just in case it doesn't work!
  22. druxey
    While I'm sure that staple spacing was calculated using some proportional formula, Alex, the photos I was looking at showed much closer spacing than you suggest.
  23. druxey
    Lovely work, Alex!
  24. druxey
    Looks like a very nice job so far, Ted.
  25. druxey
    The photos seem to indicate a spacing of about 12", judged from the length of the staples.

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