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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. E & T: nice to see you back at work and a good start on your building board. One note of caution: the areas of stem and stern that are held by your supports could be an issue later on. I had a model that was in such a fixture for some time and when I removed the model, there was a definite pale area of unoxidized wood on the stem and stern under where the supports had been. Now, some 15 years later, there is still a faint patch showing in each of those areas. P. S. Nice blog!
  2. It's a nice little model you have there. There should be some means of hoisting the gaff (the upper boom) up the mast. Is there a sheave or hole near the top of the mast? There should also be a set of jaws at the inner (forward) ends of boom and gaff that fit around the aft side of the mast. Folk here can give you more specific advice when we know these details. There needs to be some means to keep the boom and gaff in contact with the mast, as well as keep the aft end of the gaff raised.
  3. Some rhodings were open above, allowing one to slip the axletree down into it. Obviously this won't work on the cistern ones, but Greg's solution should do the trick. I guess it's a case of festina lente - make haste slowly!
  4. You should have four left over, Maury. Let's hope so!
  5. While the various citations are one thing, contemporary model rigging is another! Various museum models of the period have the ratlines carried across all the shrouds. One might argue that some rigging is not completely original, but this pattern seems consistent.
  6. Don't worry; the new holly will tone down to match the older planking. I like the view of the chain leading into the tube seen through the side of the cistern. Nice!
  7. I agree that a jollyboat would not have been armed with either carronade or long gun. That was what a gunboat was for!
  8. Can you retrofit your tools with 'fatter' handles to make holding them easier?
  9. First time? May it be the last! Hope you heal well without complication.
  10. And played the instrument too, no doubt! Is there no end to your talent, Clare? Nicely done!
  11. I guess Toni got you all pumped! (Sorry about that.) Your work on the axletrees, cranks and rhodings looks excellent, Maury.
  12. Pewter, if cast, has a surface deposit on it from the mold that inhibits the blackening agent. I abrade the castings with a 3M rotary 'spider', 400 grit, before blackening. That does the trick.
  13. B.E.: you are correct. That should have read 7". It is the lower shroud deadeyes that are 10" (in diameter!) TFFM is not entirely error free. I believe that the author wrote a disclaimer to infallibility in the preface!
  14. Euphoria is allowed, as well as a warm glow of pride! Well done, Ed.
  15. Persistence is paying off, I see! Is there a name for this pump design other than 'Wallace'?
  16. Good stuff, Toni! Those chain pumps look good enough to raise water.
  17. Nothing like having curves thrown at you (pun intended!).
  18. I thoroughly recommend John Harland and Mark Myers' Seamanship in the Age of Sail. Get a copy! It shows every conceivable evolution that might be carried out by ships with various rigs. It's been out of print for years, but good copies are usually available on abebooks.com
  19. Looks like you have the right mind-set as you reconstruct the lines, John. What you show looks convincing to me!
  20. I'm thoroughly enjoying your posts and progress, Clare. It's nice to see something different being constructed.
  21. Thanks Ed. Look forward to meeting both yourself and your models in October!
  22. Ed: I'm curious as to why you used scale width planks if you are going to sheath the lower hull. Beautiful job as usual, though.
  23. Masking tape might have prevented scratching up the paint on the wale. Next time?
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