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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Some ships' draught marks were made of sheet lead: some have been recovered from wrecks.
  2. Well, the Holman painting certainly muddies the waters! However, I think there is another clue on contemporary plans. If there is only a rail above the port opening, there is no 'meat' to fix port hooks. Therefore no lids. However, if there is at least one strake of plank above the port, then that would provide material for the hooks and hinges. Look at the Holman painting again: one strake of plank over the ports with lids. Cheerful/Surly fall into the first category. Conclusion: no port lids. I rest my case, m'lud.
  3. Admiralty Models is running sailmaking workshops shortly.
  4. I suspect bucklers were the thing if freeboard were low, making her a 'wet' ship. Otherwise, port coverings on an open deck make no sense.
  5. Looking very nice, Christian. However, I suspect that the joints in the stem would be staggered as I've re-drawn. (Based on NMM draughts of other Revenue cutters. For instance, see Skylark, 1821) You might wish to consider this. Usually the keel would be only two pieces.
  6. You should be able to cut and fit hanging knees in your sleep by now, Ed! She's looking beautiful.
  7. Lovely draught marks, Remco! Are you putting them on the stern post as well?
  8. For technical information and plans from the surveyed wreck, the book you might consider is Mary Rose, Your Noblest Shippe edited by Peter Marsden. It comes in a slip covered set: one book and a folio of plans.
  9. Nicely adapted from Ionic capital geometric construction, Mark. Now let's see it translated into 3D reality!
  10. Ed; you wrote: "I made the deck hook in two pieces to save on wood and was not too particular about the way the pieces are joined since this will all be covered by decking and the forecastle." Your 'not too particular' is other folks' excellence!
  11. Well done. The lofting was obviously correct and your workmanship excellent, Juergen!
  12. Tartarus was one of the Thais class of fireship, built to the same lines as Comet, but far less decorated. Wasp was lucky, as Tartarus and her sister ships were very fast.
  13. Guess you wanted your model to have room to breathe, Toni! You probably left the fillers out because the spacers were in your way.
  14. The edge should be sharp enough to act as a scraper. It would be difficult to put an even burr on a tiny profile. If the scraper does get dull, hone the flat sides of it to restore the edges.
  15. For small shapes, use escapement files (watchmakers' supplies or eBay). A piece of old hacksaw blade, softened by heating to cherry red and air cooled, makes an excellent and durable scraper. Light cuts with little pressure to gradually form the moulding are best: heavy cuts will tend to wander.
  16. 1) Mahogany is not the best choice of wood for bending to the curves required on models. 2) Ammonia is unpleasant and, as many have already suggested, not the best choice or, in fact, any choice. So, choose a specie of wood that will readily bend with either hot water or steam (or a temperature controlled hot iron). Then all will be happiness.
  17. For stable wood that is unlikely to warp, Castello or degame would be my first choices.
  18. I don't know the definitive answer to your question. However, the lower plan is a little suspect as reef points came in about the end of the 17th century. I'd go with Van de Velde: he was around at the time! His lateen mizens are definitely triangular. Bonnets went out of fashion as reefing came in.
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