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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Might I suggest masking tape to prevent scuffing next time? No matter how careful one is, it always happens otherwise!
  2. druxey
    Glad to see you re-appear here, Ben. I hope that the new workshop will be worthy of your model!
  3. druxey
    Interesting question. I imagine that the side planking would overlap the bottom plank at the chine, similar to a ply hull. This means planking the bottom first, then the sides.
  4. druxey
    Box fan? Not a good idea. The motor can produce sparks, igniting solvent fumes. Fans designed for fume extraction have special non-sparking motors. Try not to use volatile flammable solvents if you can possibly avoid them!
  5. druxey
    I've only started to look through your log from the beginning, Daniel. Amazing work at that scale indeed. And the amount of detail you are putting in is extraordinary. Probably the most un-kit-like kit model in existence!
  6. druxey
    Hmm. Toni, you have potential for a second-hand instrument business there!
  7. druxey
    Yes, 3D parts are more tricky for sure. The strategy I use is to cut the profile according to my card pattern from wood that is slightly too thick, shape the (inner) mating surface to fit, then the outer one. If I try to shape all surfaces at the same time, the scrap box opens its mouth!
  8. druxey
    Looks even better now to my eye, Alex. Lovely!
  9. druxey
    Neat result, though, Bob. Do you make card patterns for tricky pieces? I find that strategy keeps the scrap box hungry.
  10. druxey
    I suspect you can only remove polymer coatings using abrasives. Not a bad idea to remove lacquer that way as well, as acetone can be deadly, as mentioned.
  11. druxey
    Ask yourself what you will use the lathe for before you start. Defining your needs will help you focus on the machine you actually need. Wood turning? Metal turning? Both? What is the longest item you may need to turn? What is the largest diameter? These are starter questions even before considering budget.
  12. druxey
    Thank you, John. So, if I understand correctly, the lower part of l'estain is like a cant frame, and the upper part twists to become parallel to the couples.
  13. druxey
    The meant the mast bands or hoops, not the mast itself! The 'made mast' was of many, many pieces of wood.
  14. druxey
    Old question (April 30!): the mast bands were made and driven on in one piece. Just caught up with your build log, isalbert.
  15. druxey
    I believe that SeaWatchBooks will be there with a range of their new publications. Bring your pocketbook, credit cards and first-born.
  16. druxey
    Bava: it's not puzzling when you realize that the lines (that appear straight on the half-breadth plan) are their projected shapes on the sheer plan. They would only be straight if the ship were a rectangular block. Cut a loaf of bread straight down, but at an angle to its long axis, and view it from the side. Then you'll get it.
  17. druxey
    Looks like she's fully laden: that bow goes deep in the water on the down pitch! Very effective animation, Magnus.
  18. druxey
    If you're building models, Clare, you don't need cable. I've been without it for some years now and don't miss it! On the other hand, I need to buy more book shelves....
  19. druxey
    So, if I understand you correctly, the line of l'estain in the body plan is the projected view of this element?
  20. druxey
    Yes, isopropanol breaks down PVA. However, it will reset if not cleaned off the joint. Isopropanol should be available at a drug store (chemists).
  21. druxey
    Glad you think so, Alex. The brightness 'jumps out' visually right now. Everything else looks terrific.
  22. druxey
    Beautiful, Alex. However, might I suggest toning down the color of the cement a little?
  23. druxey
    Three (or four) right hand lay ropes spun up left-handed will make a cable, not just thicker rope.
  24. druxey
    Actually, after a while, those joints will 'read' through the paint or dye. Just give it time and seasonal wood movement!
  25. druxey
    For really thin line, rather than use a two-strand (which never looks right), start with three thinner threads. If thinner thread isn't available, turn three-stranded thread in such a way as to un-spin it. You will find it consists of three yarns. Carefully pick up one yarn at one end with tweezers and cut it. Don't let the long end go! Now strip out this yarn, leaving two intact. Do this to the other two strands, then make up your line in the usual way. On a planetary style ropewalk this technique may not be possible. I've only done this on a conventional style machine.

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