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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    For cable handling, the bulkhead panels would be hinged up under the forecastle against the beams, Robin.
  2. druxey
    Good advice, Pete, and very nice chairs!
  3. druxey
    Funny how doing things for a second time always seems to go faster. You did save this now, didn't you?
  4. druxey
    Nicely done. I feel my own method much inferior now; I simply hold the pieces up to the window (daytime) or task light (night)!
  5. druxey
    Nice looking bulkhead, Toni, although I was puzzled that you applied a comedian to both sides of the basswood. Perhaps you meant to type 'Castello'?
  6. druxey
    Well done, Bob.
  7. druxey
    I would think that deadlights that swing up would be more likely. The more elaborate hidden sliding versions would be for Admiral's quarters on a first rate!
  8. druxey
    Interesting question. Steel (1794) states that the ratlines only go across every 6th lower shroud. However, contemporary models show all the ratlines going all the way across.
  9. druxey
    Tom's idea is a good one, but I'd try this out on a sample of fabric before you make a whole suit of sails, just in case it doesn't work!
  10. druxey
    While I'm sure that staple spacing was calculated using some proportional formula, Alex, the photos I was looking at showed much closer spacing than you suggest.
  11. druxey
    Lovely work, Alex!
  12. druxey
    Looks like a very nice job so far, Ted.
  13. druxey
    The photos seem to indicate a spacing of about 12", judged from the length of the staples.
  14. druxey
    Good question. I've not come across any specification, but think 18" to 24" would be reasonable.
  15. druxey
    Your model is looking very good, Fam. Might I suggest you look at your lining out with the hull right way up? I found that things looked very good while the hull was upside down, but more adjustments were needed once I was looking at it as one would normally see the model. I like the method you are developing for scupper linings. However, as the holes come through at an angle, would the flared ends be more oval in shape than round?
  16. druxey
    Lovely! But would she have had royal yards?
  17. druxey
    Magnifique, Gaetan! She looks terrific.
  18. druxey
    As you get used to working with wood, you will be surprised at what you can do with it.
  19. druxey
    Ah: thanks for the clarification, Terry. One composite method of forming the hull would be bulkheads with filler pieces between to form a solid landing for the planks. This would avoid flat spots. (see the Hohenzollern 1660 model thread by Mr. Hollum).
  20. druxey
    Well, I suppose fidelity means plank on frame. This is a challenging project that other methods avoid. If you wish to go this route, I strongly recommend you try a cross-sectional model first. This will give you a good idea (and lots of practice!) in building accurate frames. There are several c/s models on offer right now. For instance, there is the Triton c/s on this site, or the Echo c/s from Admiralty Models. I'd consider either of these to get you up to speed before you tackle the complexities of even a 'straightforward' full hull.
  21. druxey
    There's more on using SilkSpan for sails in a new booklet by SeaWatchBooks, or as a new chapter in a new edition of Swan IV.
  22. druxey
    There's a booklet on realistic looking sailmaking now available from SeWatchBooks, or as a chapter in the new edition of Swan IV.
  23. druxey
    And remember to let the wood dry out completely before permanently attaching the plank. If you don't, the wood will shrink and you'll end up with gaps between the planks.
  24. druxey
    Somehow, I missed your January 3 posting and am a bit bothered about that fifth deadeye and chain. Usually if modifications are made, these are drawn out in detail neatly, using either a different color ink or with dashed lines. This rough pencil addition looks like a proposal that was not, in fact, carried out. Just my opinion.
  25. druxey
    The plug is not wrong: the upper edge is the top of the removable wash boards, not the top of the sheer strake. Marking the plug out first will take care of this.

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