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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Thank you, Team Notebook!
  2. druxey
    Some excellent information here. I particularly like the descriptions of painting a ship, circa 1804 (pages 27 & 28). Thanks, Wayne!
  3. druxey
    I'm sure that there were a lot of transitional rigs. You are safe there!
  4. druxey
    Heh, heh. And tomorrow, the world! Actually, I'd need to learn a suitable CAD program first before scorching any wood. Sorry about your scroll saw, E&T. I hope you got good mileage out of it before it quit.
  5. druxey
    Nice! I like the run of the floor fillers.
  6. druxey
    Before one has rigged a model, the task seems utterly daunting. This is Stage 1, where you are at. Take a deep breath and get yourself centered. Rigging is essentially a logical exercise. This should, as a software engineer, reassure you. Every line has a purpose and function, even if this is not immediately apparent. Begin with the standing rigging, lower first, working from forward to aft. If in doubt, there is plenty of help available on this forum. We all began our rigging experience at Stage 1 (see above).
  7. druxey
    There is a new technique for making sails described in the revised TFFM, Volume IV. (The relevant information is also available as a separate booklet form SeaWatch Books.) The results can be seen on the 'workshops' page of Admiralty Models. You can see for yourself how this looks.
  8. druxey
    The mizzen topgallant mast and yard was not usually fitted to smaller rates until the 1790's. This was also apparently true of driver booms. The updated masting plan indicates this.
  9. druxey
    That is thinking ahead!
  10. druxey
    Nice use of the free library technology! Where do you live? I'll be right over! Everything on the hull lines up beautifully.
  11. druxey
    I like this story, Wefalck! Looking forward to the next instalment....
  12. druxey
    Acrylic/latex caulking is good as it will take paint, whereas silicon will not. As it is not really sandable when dry, you will need to apply it carefully and wipe it with a damp piece of paper towel to smooth it.
  13. druxey
    A windlass of about 1815 on a small vessel would be worked by short capstan-style bars called normans. It would look like the one Chuck Passaro sells on the Syren Ship Model Company's site.
  14. druxey
    I've not come across any contemporary descriptions, I'm afraid. Perhaps someone else has?
  15. druxey
    Very nice metalwork, Mick. If you are looking at another lathe, I've found a watchmakers' lathe with compound cross-slide excellent for model work. One can find them, often in very good condition, on eBay.
  16. druxey
    I suspect that there was a small ringbolt inside. You could reach through and grab it to close the scuttle. A small rod of wood could then be passed through the ring to keep the scuttle closed.
  17. druxey
    Yup, primer will show up everything! Fortunately, in this case a bit of automotive filler and sanding will see you right. I'd use caulking at the plank/stem joint, though.
  18. druxey
    You haven't been idle, have you, Mobbsie? The new suit of sails looks terrific.
  19. druxey
    The sides and sills of the timbers should match the quarter badge opening on the sheer draught.
  20. druxey
    The sides of the opening should probably be parallel to each other, Ben.
  21. druxey
    Have you annealed the brass before attempting to cut it?
  22. druxey
    Nice looking deck: well done, Fam!
  23. druxey
    With due respect to the model sailmakers out there: any stitching at scales under about 1:6 looks way over-size, as Wefalck has said.
  24. druxey
    Ah, type yclept Gothic blackletter. Haue fun!
  25. druxey
    If you are going to use the existing piece, wet it thoroughly on top before gluing and adding rubber bands.

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