Jump to content
New Publication - Ship Modeler's Handbook - Get Your Copy Now!! ×

druxey

NRG Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    13,029

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    I agree with Mark's posting. This holds for British 18th century grating dimensions. I also read somewhere that the hole size had to be less than the size of a shoe heel.
  2. druxey
    I think you are on track with your keel/false keel joints, except you might wish to shift the joints of the false keel aft. The first section likely to touch would be aft, so that might be shorter. As the false keel joints do not contribute to the structural integrity of the ship, it's not critical to stagger them exactly half-way between the keel joints. I'd keep any keel taper to the cant frame areas as well. Good stuff, Joss P.S. Some of us like history: those that don't will skip it anyway!
  3. druxey
    Just came across your impressive log, Stelios. It's always refreshing to see something more unusual as a subject.
  4. druxey
    Microcrystalline wax is much better than beeswax for rigging as well. Enjoying your build log very much, Mati, since I discovered it!
  5. druxey
    Thanks, Gary. Ain't this all fun? Then there's Hornet's planking scheme, direct from the builder's yard: ZAZ5119. And on it goes….
  6. druxey
    Thanks, Gary. I'm sure that there were variations on the theme as you describe. I suspect that the upper deck, exposed to weather, wore more quickly than the lower gun deck. This might explain the layout on Tremendous. ZAZ7908 shows long planks in an undated 74, obviously earlier than 1800. On a related note, Montague, 1779 has wonderful drawings of part of her side planking that needed replacement. These drawings were obviously done as a record in the shipyard at the time. Go to the NMM site: 'Collections'>'Search'>'Montague 1779'.
  7. druxey
    My understanding is that on gun decks the planks were laid in shorter pieces, often top and butt, under the where the trucks ran. Worn pieces could then be replaced without lifting a 24' 0" or 28' 0" long plank.
  8. druxey
    While I've had proportional dividers in my kit for years, I confess that I've very rarely used them. I use a drawn proportional radiating scale on paper. Much cheaper! Just find the spot along the converging outer lines that equals the space you want to divide up - in regular or irregular fashion - and mark off the divisions on a strip of paper at right angles to the radiating lines. The marks are then transferred to wherever you want them. (The example shown is for dividing a square into an octagon.)
  9. druxey
    Generally speaking, I think you'll find that parallel laid planking came in once sawmills were established. This would be around 1800. It was easy to cut parallel sided lumber using a circular saw. Before that, everything was cut by handsaw. Also, naturally growing, slightly curved lumber was converted with less waste and would be stronger with the grain running along the curve.
  10. druxey
    Very, very impressive!
  11. druxey
    Very neatly done so far, Rob.
  12. druxey
    Looks very entertaining, Sam!
  13. druxey
    Looking terrific, Toni. And I feel so much better, knowing that the track for the door is there, even if no-one can see it
  14. druxey
    Well done, Remco. One can't always anticipate every item ahead of one. We all miss some and then have to work on something that, were we to slip….
  15. druxey
    Thanks for your comments and beveling measurements, Ed. Pre-beveling frames before erection is, as you say, theoretical. For people like yourself who work to a high degree of accuracy, it will work out beautifully, provided that the lofting and cutting is correct. For lesser mortals this is maybe not such a good idea!
  16. druxey
    Sweet, Ed! Of course there would be less fairing required, as the hull form means less extreme bevels. Yet another reason to choose the 19th over 18th century framed models!
  17. druxey
    'Camber' was used in the 18th century to describe a negative or downward curve of a deck longitudinally. Some ships' decks curved down at the bow to allow the cables to come inboard through the hawseholes on the upper deck.
  18. druxey
    Yes, Allan, that statement had me scratching my head for a while when I first came across it years ago!
  19. druxey
    It's a misprint. Should read 'hance'!
  20. druxey
    Perhaps install just a small section of deck and a few guns on one side, rather than all the armament? Then the deck structure will remain visible. However, it's your model - and a magnificent one, either way.
  21. druxey
    Good question, Sherry. I would finish your (very nicely!) carved figure so that it visually blends with the rest of your model. Basswood will darken a little with time, so it will not look quite as white as it does right now. It really depends on your personal taste. There are no wrongs or rights, really. If you are unsure, look at photos of other models and see what look appeals to you.
  22. druxey
    Definitely there is a knee at the aft end of the deck to land the planking on, as well as tie the structure together. You are the master shipwright, and can shape your knee to suit your taste and eye. As usual, it's a delight to see your photos of progress!
  23. druxey
    Those sweet lines are becoming more apparent at each posting Ed. Exemplary. (I think that I used that word before about your work….)
  24. druxey
    Another possibility to create the flare would be to spin the tube and feed a conical piece of wood against it.
  25. druxey
    Always interesting to read correspondence that is germaine to the subject in hand! Thank you, gentlemen.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...