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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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You might also want to consider The Fully Framed Model, Volume IV, from SeaWatch Books. It give step-by-step rigging of a sixth rate of the 1780 time period.
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HMS Naiad 1797 by albert - FINISHED - 1/48
druxey replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
You have been busy! The work looks beautifully neat and tidy. Very well done, Albert. (You can post images directly here if you click on 'More reply options'). -
It would be very difficult to cut in the upper edge of the rabbet once all the frames are in, as they will be on the way of your cutting tools. Try using a very well honed V-gouge. Take very tiny shavings off and correct any waviness with succeeding cuts as you deepen the rabbet.
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A very good method you've got going there, Mark. The result will probably be more symmetric than the prototype!
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Dorade Omega1234 - FINISHED - yawl
druxey replied to Omega1234's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
Beautifully done at such a small scale! -
Whether your mind is clear or not, all those different measuring systems are confusing! Rather than thinking in mm, inches, fractions or whatever, I always think in 'full size'. So, rather than think "This piece needs to be 4mm thick" I think "On the actual ship it is 9" (or whatever) thick." Then I use a scale rule with the appropriate feet and inches to the scale I'm using to measure what I want. Saves a lot of headaches! For really small sizes that I need a caliper or micrometer to measure, i have made myself a conversion table to convert the result into 'full size' inches.
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Testor's site will bring up the Aztec line of airbrushes.
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This is a lovely looking model of an unusual subject, Nils. Thank you for bringing this to our attention as well as the sad story behind the loss of both ship and your grandfather.
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- heinrich kayser
- steamship
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The Aztec is much easier to clean and you don't have to worry about needle care as much. The Aztec has small screw-in 'nose' units with the needle fully protected. Having also used Iwata, Badger, DeVilbiss and other conventional design airbrushes, I much prefer the Aztec.
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That is a very clever method for ensuring symmetry of the half-frames, Ed. Adroitly managed!
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Drilling Sheave Holes For Masts
druxey replied to Stuntflyer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
One additional thought: In order to prevent (or lessen) the possibility of the bit 'skittering' across the surface of the wood, file a small flat where the sheave will eventually be, then center punch. -
ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
druxey replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
More absolutely beautiful work! You never cease to amaze us, Doris.- 883 replies
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- royal caroline
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Looks legit to me, Dan.
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Positioning Cathead
druxey replied to robnbill's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Without seeing what your model actually looks like, i can only offer a general suggestion. Measure and mark out the hole first. Now check it again! Drill an undersized hole slowly, backing up with a pad of scrap wood. Holding the pad tightly against the inside of the hull will prevent tearing out when the drill bit breaks through. Slowly enlarge the hole to the size and shape you want using Swiss files. That way you maintain good control over the operation. -
By the late 1790's decoration was heavily restricted. The full length figure was ditched for a bust or half-length. You'd be safe to go with that.
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If it's quality ply you need, you have to go to a serious wood supplier and ask for Baltic Birch ply. It's not cheap, but it is good quality!
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Framing is difficult enough: introducing the extra level of difficulty with a hogged keel is fiendishly hard! It looks as if you've worked out how to manage the problem nicely. Well done, Ersin!
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I agree with Dan. Most of the stresses on the capstan spindle would be in a forward direction. This is where the 'meat' of the wood is. It saves weight and is less of a foot hazard than the rectangular style partners. It also demonstrates the variations that are present in different ships of the same class 'as built'.
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Some black markers will fade to a brownish hue over time and with exposure to light. 'Archival' quality will not.
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Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
druxey replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Worth the time to re-do, Maury! Those look much better. -
Gun port lids and sweeps, on small vessels
druxey replied to Stockholm tar's topic in Wood ship model kits
Interesting theory about shippable port half-lids. In other draughts that show lid hinges, the pintles always oppose each other, so the lid could not accidentally unship. I see no reason to unship the half-lid, as long as it could open far enough to clear the muzzle of the cannon. -
Hmm… looks more like Davy Jones' locker than a companionway to anywhere at present! Nice working hinges, Dan.
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Gun port lids and sweeps, on small vessels
druxey replied to Stockholm tar's topic in Wood ship model kits
Thanks for your clarification, Tony! Sorry if I misunderstood you. -
You will find that the point of your knife will wander less working in one direction that the other, depending on the grain pattern. Go in the direction that works. Also, a really, really sharp blade, light pressure and several passes work better than trying to cut through in one.
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