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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    I imagine there would be tracks top and bottom. Your stalls are land-bound, so doesn't need two tracks, but imagine the door to the sail room banging around in a seaway. The lower track would be two battens nailed to the deck.
  2. druxey
    It looks like a Far East knock-off of a Gerstner tool box. Gerstners come in various sizes and configurations. They are the Rolls-Royce of toolboxes, if you can afford the real thing!
  3. druxey
    I concur with Ed about the quality of Grobet files and rifflers. Lovely work, as ever.
  4. druxey
    That's looking lovely, Toni. If you felt like it, you could fabricate a wood channel from a flat strip with two square ones glued on top, the door thickness apart.
  5. druxey
    Ow! That looks painful, Karl. Rob: would some cling-film around the mould be added insurance against this happening?
  6. druxey
    Congratulations on your second start! I hope you'll be happy with the cherry this time.
  7. druxey
    Good for you. Let us know how things go in the New Year.
  8. druxey
    The mortises provide positive locations for the cants. These can be very helpful, even if they are invisible in the finished model, Greg.
  9. druxey
    Nice presentation in the case, Ben. Congratulations on completing your 'fully framed' cross-section!
  10. druxey
    Thank you, Anja. Please also give Doris best wishes and a speedy return!
  11. druxey
    Nice to know that you hadn't forgotten how to cut a neat dovetail! Sweet.
  12. druxey
    Cheap rasps are a snare and delusion. Quality ones, cared for, will last you. (The same goes for any and all tools!)
  13. druxey
    Very tricky, Ed! I'd have been tempted to do all this flat on the bench as a sub-assembly, but you are obviously a braver man than I. Well done.
  14. druxey
    Now that is a major decision! Not many folk would get so far along, then decide to re-start. My hat off to you, mij.
  15. druxey
    Oops: I meant to write 'methyl hydrate', not methanol!
  16. druxey
    I've made wooden masters, used RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) rubber and cast using lead-free pewter. The molds were made as two-piece ones with all the details (vent field, trunnions) and reinforced by a two-piece dental plaster outer 'jacket'. This was for safety and because the rubber was quite soft and easily deformed. With a little experience, the results are great.
  17. druxey
    If you are scratch building, its seems odd to want to buy cannon off-the-shelf! If you don't want to do repetitive turning, simply make a master of each variety and then make a mold. You can then cast all the cannon in the sizes that you need.
  18. druxey
    Exemplary work, Remco!
  19. druxey
    Epoxy, before it sets up, can be removed using isopropanol or methanol.
  20. druxey
    If it's British naval armament history and extreme detail you want, and have deep pockets, the two volumes by Adrian Caruana are the ultimate in this field.
  21. druxey
    Terrific work, Johann!
  22. druxey
    A very good solution, TJ. I like it!
  23. druxey
    Nice work, Ben. But, as Greg says, there's more, if you want it!
  24. druxey
    The wedges need to be cut with the edges radiating from the axis. So, glue up the sections with the points meeting at the axis. Your prototype will only make "Go home, barrel - you're drunk."
  25. druxey
    Truly inspiring quality work, Karl.

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