druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Thanks for posting this interesting image. This is something I've never seen in other paintings and is perhaps an important historical detail. Are you free to tell us the location of this painting, Barking?
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Ed: your planking seems perfect to me! -
Thanks for taking my comments in the spirit that they were intended, Ben! That astern photo seems to indicate that they are sitting high.
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water way?
druxey replied to jhl's topic in Planking Techniques's Click Here for Topics dedicated to planking!!!!
By now you realize that the answer is 'it all depends'. The more specific you are as to the time and place that the ship was built, the more precise an answer you will get from the experts on this site. -
Deck beam Scarphs?
druxey replied to NMBROOK's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I imagine at this time period 30' 0" lengths of timber were easily available, which is more than 8 meters. I suppose, depending on the geographic location of the shipyard, if only shorter lengths were available they would have scarphed them together. You are the master shipwright: you decide! -
Nice job on the gratings, Toni. Also nice-looking capstan partners.
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10" seems about right to me as well. Perhaps 8" were used at a later time, with smaller raw materials and more powered saws. Personally, I spile all my planks and steam bend them in the other plane. No clamps or pins usually required. They then sit down and stay where they should.
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Looks good, Ben. You might want to check the second and third cants from aft: they look to be sitting a bit high and will give you a problem later when it comes to fairing. All they will need is a little shaved off their feet to lower them after you've broken out the isopropanol.
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20 gauge shackles
druxey replied to michael mott's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I've used the 'melted end' technique and find controlling the process quite tricky. It's hard to do this consistently. Looks like you've nailed the technique though. -
Either way up, she is a beauty to behold!
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I sent this comment to Conway: Please pass on my sincere thanks to John for having made such a significant contribution to the ship modelling publishing world. In the early days of Model Shipwright, this was my only window into what others were doing in the field. Working in isolation, Model Shipwright was a valuable tool for me as well as many others, I am sure. Every best wish to John in his well-earned retirement.
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An advantage of hide glue in instruments is for ease of repair: heat will reactivate the glue, making disassembly simpler, if needed. Mention of Seccotine takes me back to my childhood days: I seem to recall that it did have a slight odour, but not an unpleasant one.
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It takes a while to get used to read older manuscript hands. If you are interested, there are excellent free self-tutorials on the National Archive (U.K.) web site on reading earlier handwriting as well as Latin - if you want to go that far back!
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Alan: according to Steel, the top timbers are moulded 6½ " at the top of the side amidships and 7" along forecastle and quarter deck, not 5½" as you have it at present.
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Stay away from Gorilla glue! It expands and the excess is very difficult to remove on small parts. I would - pardon the pun - stick with white or yellow carpenters' glue for wood. Any excess washes off easily with just water before it sets.
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It is amazing what we can learn from other model-makers, as well as what one invents for oneself, when one has to! I appreciate all the model makers on this site who are willing to share their knowledge.
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Now, that is a Rolls Royce vise!
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As much meticulous attention to detail as usual, Ed! Very, very nice.
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HMS Swift kit - planking
druxey replied to redwards's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Check out the planking tutorials on this site. Edge bending planks only works to a small degree. -
Thanks for that link, Martin.
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Oh, oh. I hope that isn't pirated.
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Hide glue is excellent for about 200 years or more. It then becomes too brittle to stand up to seasonal wood movement. (See Rob Napier's book 'Legacy of a Ship Model', SeaWatch Books - highly recommended.) It is also somewhat odorous to use!
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Yup, this style of model is not for the hasty or faint of heart. And it always takes much longer than you expect. However, the payoff - eventually - is enormous.
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HMS Naiad 1797 by albert - FINISHED - 1/48
druxey replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Looking terrific, Albert! -
Plated Iron Hull
druxey replied to Pete Jaquith's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Bristol board comes in various weights or plies and is an excellent material if handled appropriately. Generally it will bend better in one direction that the other at right angles. It cuts nicely with a sharp blade. It is probably better to surface glue using non-aqueous adhesives, as moisture will cause buckling. If you spray the finished model with grey automotive primer to seal it, you can then use acrylic or other water based paints on it with no risk of the card buckling.
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