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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Those scupper support timbers are better placed once the level of the deck is established, as Greg suggests.
  2. Oh...my.... I really feel for you. I'm so sorry that you are back to Square One. Next round, if you still have a cat, may I suggest you either close the door or, if you don't have a separate workshop, clamp the building board down between sessions? On the plus side, you will find that your work will go quicker and more accurately than the first time. Best wishes, Cap'n Rat Fink.
  3. I suspect Anthony Anthony represents 1 and 2 as pendants and tackle for raising rigging to the lower tops. (The pendant portion is later termed a Burton pendant.) There was one on port and starboard side. Usually these were taken to the rails inboard of the shrouds of their respective mast. The rather Rube-Goldberg style arrangement at 3 is interesting. Could it be a tackle to tension the fore topmast stay?
  4. I really like your artistry in softening the gold finish to your carvings and giving it a patinated look. Outstanding.
  5. Grant's method works very well for avoiding that concave look!
  6. That Pegasus figure was beautifully modelled, Doris. With a fully-round figure, would you make it in two halves, or model it completely in the round?
  7. Good save, Ed. It's been my experience that problems of this nature always occur at the cant frames, not the square ones - of course!
  8. I like your frame 'hold-down' device. Are the larger cross-pieces above and below the frame fixed or are they movable?
  9. Your mention of Munchausen's ducks made me smile. Nice examples of serving you have there as well.
  10. It's better not to harden line (rope) if you are then going to spin it up into cable.
  11. I assume that the extensions are there only for long pieces of stock, Gaetan? Nice microphotographs, too. Is there anything that you are not expert at?
  12. The 'right answer' would take up several chapters of a book! Probably the best short answer is to look a Ed T's build log of Naiad. You will see how complex this is. The only short answer is to the question of plank length. Standard lengths in the 18th century British yards were either 24' 0", 26' 0" or 28' 0". The butts were staggered or offset from the outside planking for maximum strength.
  13. A proper 'hook' on the scraper's edge is critical to using this tool. I also file off the corners of my scrapers so that 'dig in' is avoided. Check the url that Richard has kindly provided.
  14. Properly laid line, hardened, should not unravel when cut. The opposing torque in the strands/threads/rope should cancel each other out and provide a 'balanced' line.
  15. The crossjack is indeed a yard, but one not set with a sail.
  16. This is one you will need to chalk up to experience, I'm afraid. The upside of this will be that the re-do will be better than the original work - it always is! I had to remove some port lids today that were sub-standard. Revision happens to all of us!
  17. Now that inclined plane for planing is a neat idea! Thanks for sharing the idea. That Nielsen plane looks like a nice bit of kit, too. The scores on your whelps look great. Nice work - as usual, Mark.
  18. And don't forget, these old-time model makers had no power saws, mills or other machine tools to produce these masterpieces!
  19. Seeing your work again is a nice reminder of how high a standard you work to, Ed. You almost make that tricky stern framing look easy!
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