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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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The Saw Stop may be very effective. However it would, I think, encourage the user to be somewhat cavalier in the use of the saw. Vigilance is a far better way - and cheaper, too!
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Extraordinary: even your hooks are made from bone? -
That's the general idea, Alex.
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There now, I knew you could do a brilliant job, Remco! Looks terrific.
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You are a brave fellow to cut in all those scores on the deadwood in situ! I'm impressed.
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What you see on contemporary models is pretty accurate. You might wish to look at marine paintings as well. The earlier 'ochre' was actually oiled wood, not paint. Blue on models varies from smalt (a greenish blue) to dark ultramarine. Prussian blue was discovered in 1704 and came into commercial production by the 1720's. On some models black is substituted for the blue, as in the NMM model of Mermaid.
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Cleaning very old paintwork
druxey replied to Mark T's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
As the models are old, it is probably safe to say that the paintwork (not having seen it, though) is oil-based. If it is on a rigid support it will make life easier. If on something soft, like canvas, it will be more difficult. You will need to support the back to prevent bending as you clean and possible cracking/flaking. For nicotine and ordinary grime, a damp cotton bud (not soaking wet!) will remove these. Be particularly careful if the surface of the paint is cracked. You don't want moisture penetrating the cracks. If there are other issues with the paintwork, you may wish to consult a professional conservator. A word of warning. As a professional conservator, I've worked on paintings where damage by an enthusiastic amateur has cost far more to correct than if the piece had come to me before it had been 'cleaned'. -
Because of the bow flare, the plank does have to be spilled to sit properly. As it twists, it will widen considerably in order to keep the planking run looking 'sweet'.
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In the illustration of Ardent's stern, Alex, remember that the centre of the projected stern gallery is further aft than the outer ends, so is also higher because of the angle created due to its sheer.
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It is actually called a horseshoe plate and does strengthen the complex three-piece joint there. Actually, there is a plate on each side, and the bolts pass right through. Most models do not show this detail, but it was there on the actual ships.
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If you're happy, Mark, we can all rest easy tonight!
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Luvverly, Gary!
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Terrific work, Gary. Now, where is that scale pig?
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Things to bear in mind: 1) The roundup or spring of each transom and gallery increases as you go upward. This counteracts the illusion of sagging. 2) The apparent spring in photos can look exaggerated as the lower the viewpoint, the greater it appears to be. This illusion is because of the round aft of the various knuckles and rows of lights. 3) Any row of lights have the same height throughout, as you've noted, Mark. I thinks that exhausts the subject - for now, anyway!
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Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
druxey replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I agree with Greg. Your model is progressing very nicely, Maury. -
Shaping stern fascia
druxey replied to pauls's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Walnut ply isn't the best material for this purpose. Soaking it well was a good move, but rather than bend it on the model, bend it and clamp it on a curved form that will support the whole fascia. Best is a two-piece curved form if you have the facility to cut it out. Leave the assembly overnight. Hopefully this will work for you.- 1 reply
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I'm personally not a great fan of contact cement. Volatile fumes require respiratory protection, no wiggle room in laying the wood down, and so on. Plain ole white glue does it for me. If the pieces to be joined are thin, water content can cause warping, so dampen the unglued sides of the wood to balance out this potential issue.
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HMS Sussex by mij - Scale 1:48
druxey replied to mij's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
If wood glue ever freezes, that can compromise it, mij. Is that a possibility? -
'Spring' Ed, in the 18th century referred to the round-up of the stern transverse curves. Your quote, "The after beams of the quarterdeck must be gradually sprung to answer thereto." implies - to me, at least - that the beam round up increases, rather than is forced up by pillars. Thanks for coming across that one. I don't recall having read it. This should set Mark's mind at rest, as well as those of us that have participated in this thread!
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Good stuff, Sam! And a happy New Year as well, if it's not too late to wish you it.
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One small addition to the good advice: never use power equipment if you are tired or in a hurry!
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From your drawing I would hesitantly say that round-up did increase in this specific case. Lucky you, Mark! If you don't increase it, the 'spring' of the stern gallery will not look right. You are correct to be concerned about this detail.
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Michael: the OED cites 'rhoding' from naval architecture books, 1850,(which is very late) but, alas, gives no origin as to its meaning.
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This was Volume III, Wayne?
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Ridiculous prices! Sorry to disappoint you, but several copies are currently available for $250.00 or less on abebooks.com
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