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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Looking at your progress photos, I'm smiling again - as usual. Simply lovely work, Gary.
  2. druxey
    Ooops! Got it, Allan.
  3. druxey
    However, the placement of the eyebolts is as Steel describes and I picture a lashing on each side instead of the later chain links shown here.
  4. druxey
    Angle grinders! Orbital sanders! Oh my! Hopefully the later stages of construction will not be quite so brutal. All the best with this new project.
  5. druxey
    Good to see you back in the saddle, Remco!
  6. druxey
    Excellent!
  7. druxey
    Looking good, Daniel.
  8. druxey
    Ah. Good idea.
  9. druxey
    Looking good, Toni. To get a smoother bolt 'head', have you tried using a small cup burr? Another technique is to use a blunt knife and roll it across the wire to form a small head. Someone recently posted an illustrated 'how to' of this on MSW.
  10. druxey
    Although, note Livesay's 'compartments' seen below the rows of balusters, which are absent today.
  11. druxey
    Silverfish are usually longer than 1mm, Twinrow. They look like miniature prehistoric torpedo shaped silver-grey things. Unfortunately what Mike has a re probably wood borers. Silverfish like paper and paste; they do nasty things to old books.
  12. druxey
    Sounds as if you did everything correctly, Sam. The only thing I can spot is that Blacken-It should be diluted about 8:1 to work well. However, that shouldn't have given you the result that you've shown. Definitely a metallurgist's or chemist's specialty question, I'm afraid.
  13. druxey
    Is the material you've used actually brass, in fact? And what exactly have you used on this?
  14. druxey
    Fumigation?
  15. druxey
    Lovely metalwork! And a very, very nice model as well.
  16. druxey
    Should be accepted for display? Should be, Peter??? If not, MSW will come down hard on the NYYC. Please give Dan my congratulations on such a fine detailed model. Very well done!
  17. druxey
    Automatic scaling with either Adobe or with the resident software on one's printer is something to be eternally vigilant for!
  18. druxey
    Congratulations on completing this magnum opus, Chris. She looks very impressive.
  19. druxey
    Reading in Steel's tables, it looks as if (1805) there were two methods of retaining the tiller at the time. One was with eyebolts driven into both sides of the tiller two feet forward of the rudderhead and two eyebolts in the 'fore part of the rudderhead'. Presumably tackle was rigged each side between these. The other method was as described above. Apparently the tiller could become loose with shrinkage over time, according to Steel. Also a norman and chocks were to be provided, but it does not describe how these were used! I don't know whether this is helpful or simply provides more confusion to the discussion....
  20. druxey
    Waterstops and wedged scarphs: very nice details, Ed! You are out-doing yourself this time around.
  21. druxey
    Would they need locking together, in fact? The tiller engages the sweep with the gooseneck. Wouldn't that, and the tensioning tackle, prevent the tiller from moving forward and disengaging from the mortise in the rudder?
  22. druxey
    Careful of taking any AOS book as gospel truth, Gary! I don't doubt that the arrangement shown was used but, as you ask, how early did this come into use? My suspicion is that it was closer to 1800 than 1760.
  23. druxey
    Please take care, Toni: your hands are your most valuable asset. I trust the damage was not too serious.
  24. druxey
    And so it really begins! This is going to be an enjoyable spectator sport.
  25. druxey
    Very nice going, Chris. It's very gratifying when the work one did years ago pays off. Speaking of years, when my only daughter was young, no modeling happened for ten years after she was a few months old. So, your expectation of two more models after this may be realistic, especially if one is a monster 110-gun ship....

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