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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Oh, my! Now that is ornamental 'ironwork'. Seems almost a pity to blacken it.... Beautifully done. As a matter of interest, what kind of soldering mat are you using there?
  2. druxey
    Definitely you are correct, Robin: this 1853 mention was a successor Alfred, the third of the name.
  3. druxey
    A promising beginning! Looking forward to reading more as you research her.
  4. druxey
    Pewter blackening agent works best (Jax or another brand, though jewelry supply houses). However, if the metal has been cast, it has a layer of mould release on the surface that defies colouring. First you will need to abrade the surface to get rid of this layer to get satisfactory results.
  5. druxey
    Well, a schooner shouldn't take as long to build as a frigate, Allan! All the best on this new model and also for your annual getaway.
  6. druxey
    Nice progress. Now you can imagine what it's like for Greg as he frames a complete hull!
  7. druxey
    And I innocently thought this thread was about ship modelling.... Isn't it?
  8. druxey
    Well, Bob, I for one am delighted that you are here to report. I'm sorry for your health issues and wish you a speedy and uneventful recovery. Get young guys to move heavy stuff in future, please! Take care, now.
  9. druxey
    You continue to surprise and amaze us! Not only do the details look terrific, but the the overall effect has visual unity; a very tricky balance to achieve.
  10. druxey
    Is there no stopping you in any material??? Real leathering is a pretty good trick, Michael.
  11. druxey
    Whoops: you are quite right, Russ! I apologize. It was rather late last night when I wrote that. Drop planks, i.e. reducing two strakes to one, or three to two will be required on a bluff-bowed hull form.
  12. druxey
    A good planning challenge is to see if you can lay out your planking with as few stealers as possible, or none at all. You will certainly need them on a 'tubby' hull.
  13. druxey
    Very, very impressive neat work, Reckon.
  14. druxey
    Terrific. Those 'improved' crowns are outstanding.
  15. druxey
    18th century contemporary models usually show two shaped spare topmasts and a yard or two.
  16. druxey
    Contemporary models' channels (18th century, English) are either in natural wood or matt black.
  17. druxey
    Sweet! Almost too nice and pristine. But time will take care of that.
  18. druxey
    To combat 'hourglassing' of shrouds when rigging ratlines, tie every fifth one to begin with. Then add a ratline half-way between those installed, and finally one between each to complete the job. As you go with the first and second round, check that you aren't pulling the shrouds out of line.
  19. druxey
    Welcome back, Thanasis! Good to see you are active again and doing such lovely work. I'm well aware of the troubles you are going through as a country and am sorry that it's affected you personally.
  20. druxey
    Good ventilation is a must, of course, as with any volatile solvent.
  21. druxey
    Love the thimble! She will be the cynosure of all eyes when you sail her.
  22. druxey
    I use the stuff that model aircraft folk use: SIG brand. I dilute it considerably with solvent as the sealer is thick and syrupy.
  23. druxey
    Yes, the dye will 'wick' along the grain of the wood. No tape will prevent this. The only method to stop migration of dye that I know of is to score the wood with a sharp scalpel blade. This breaks the flow of dye and makes for a clean line. I cut quite deeply: the cut is not apparent in the finished piece. The only other option is to make the part in pieces, dye one part and then join the pieces afterwards.
  24. druxey
    Good advice, Greg.
  25. druxey
    Always delightful to look in on your log, Ed!

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