druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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ebonizing boxwood
druxey replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I would definitely cut in a demarkation line as insurance against bleeding. Masking tape alone will not prevent dye 'creep'. To do an experimental run off-model is a very good move! -
The narrow 'second line' is the the upper edge of the tuck rail. The heavier lines are the 'shadows'. If you look at the aft edge you will see the profile. From top to bottom: a rounded bullnose, A small vertical, a concave and, at the bottom, another rounded bullnose.
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Spyglass: I think you may be mislead by the fact that some builders paint the black (first) strake above the wale, so that the upper cheek appears to land on the wale: it actually sits on the black strake.
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I believe from my study of the subject that this is correct for 18th century British construction. The width of the margin on the wing transom varies depending on the size of ship, of course. It is as much as 6" for 110 gun ships and down to 3" on small ships. For frigates it could be, as Allan shows, 4 1/2" or 5".
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With all due respect, Allan, I think the actual construction was as in the modified diagram below. Do you have information to the contrary? A section of the tuck molding was attached to the lower edge of the port lid, of course.
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ebonizing boxwood
druxey replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I do all the shaping and bending before using shoe dye. -
Now, that is progress. She's looking good, Ben.
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Dorade Omega1234 - FINISHED - yawl
druxey replied to Omega1234's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
Yup, that is small all right. Nice detail for the size, Omega. What is the scale, please? -
Interesting strategy for the channels, E&T. Have a fun weekend!
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The rail has more than an ornamental purpose, Sam. It protects the end grain of the lower hull planks from water penetration and premature rotting. Exposed end-grain was to be avoided anywhere on a ship if at all possible.
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Have a great conference, folks. Sorry I can't make it....
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If you are referring to 18th century British ships, it's not quite as simple as that. The lower aft edge of the wing transom has a changing bevel for the bottom planking to land on. The upper 3" or so is left vertical and the junction with the bevel is called the margin line. The tuck rail is attached to the wing transom along the margin line as well as overlapping the bottom plank ends by a few inches. This rail is very tricky to make, as the rabbet on its fore face changes angle continuously along its length. The photos should explain this better than words.
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Well done indeed, John. It's been an interesting journey we've watched you on (with one or two unintended side-trips!), but the result is terrific. Congratulations!
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Please protect those lovely models with plastic or glass cases!
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While visiting Greg last weekend, I took a look at Volume II. It's every bit as lovely a production as Volume I. Well done, Ed and SeaWatch.
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Interesting solution, Dan. I suspect that, as the quarter deck does not carry much weight, the hanging knee would have been simply omitted entirely. Only the lodging knee would be installed.
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ancre Le Fleuron by cabrapente - FINISHED
druxey replied to cabrapente's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
I think this does not translate as 'lifeline' but 'preventer stay'. This is the back-up, should the main stay be shot away. -
Exemplary is the only adjective that hasn't yet been used to describe your work, Ed!
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- young america
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For a vessel of Granado's size 3/4" treenails are correct. However, it's your decision as you are the one that has to be happy with the result! She's looking very good so far.
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My burrs are fine as I use them by hand, not spun in a drill. They are at least 30 years old and haven't clogged with wood dust yet!
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With even more due respect, the question is not superfluous. I've seen too many model with bulky, oversized servings (and lashings!) that detract from their appearance. I think the line size has to look 'right' regardless of scale. I suspect in full size, about 1" circumference line is roughly what would be required.
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How brittle is the rigging?
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There are also the tutorials posted on this site!
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Oh, my. That is sobering.
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Well! A miniaturist and humorist! This is entertainment as well as informative. Thank you, John.
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