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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Nice to see your progress, Gary. It always brings a smile to my face when seeing your work. Excellent!
  2. If port sills were all horizontal and not parallel to the deck sheer then the planking of each inside would need to be chiselled out square. In addition, the curve of the ship's sides prevents port lids from being interchangeable. You could ask why a ship has sheer and is not flat along the decks. Sheer is required to counteract the tendency for the (wooden) structure to sag and for drainage. A ship is very unlike the architecture of a building, where all items are at right angles, parallel and eight horizontal or vertical, modern day cruise ships excepted!
  3. Ports are spec'd at 28" deep by 30" wide for a 32 gun ship (Steel, 1805). The sizes you quote are very close to those for a 38 gun ship (30" x 34").
  4. ...and then the fun begins! I hope your tools are well-honed, Tim.
  5. Is there no stopping you and this navy of 1:36 scale models? I wonder if anyone else is turning out models at this scale. Nice start, Jerry.
  6. Unfortunately this is the weakness of kit-supplied planking strips. If you can get a fine-grained veneer from a local source (I assume you don't have the power tools to machine your own plank sheet 'blanks'), you might consider that route. Spiling is definitely the way to go if you want the nice planking look of scratch-built models.
  7. This is where things start to get interesting!
  8. Now that is a brilliant beginning, Albert!
  9. Those catheads are tough beasts to wrestle, but it looks like you've won, despite the battle damage!
  10. If you absolutely want a shiny copper bottom, you will need to be very careful not to pull up plate edges while cleaning them. This is virtually impossible! However, if you are successful, you will also need to swab the copper with acetone to remove any trace of grease before spraying with lacquer as suggested. Otherwise your fingerprints will come back to haunt you!
  11. The 'under construction' photo appears to show the fore end of an armour belt with the fore end angled to match the curve of the stem.
  12. Michael: you mention the Waite/Tucker 'Select List' mini-volume. You might be interested to know that prior to that, there were many sheets of bond paper with mimeographed(!) typewritten list of plans by rating that those gentlemen had assembled. These lists were comprehensive. My copies of some of those lists fell to pieces years ago, alas. They would be very useful, other than the catalog numbers were the old Admiralty Box/Sheet system rather than the ZAZ numbers used today.
  13. How does this color combination of lines on a present-day model strike you?
  14. Very nicely completed, Bob. That didn't take long!
  15. Very authentic looking galley kitchen! Nicely done, Cabrapente.
  16. Have you tried making a clear arcylic core and building up the lantern around it?
  17. Dear E&T, The draughts you mention are exactly the ones I was thinking of. Unfortunately, I know no more than you on that subject. Perhaps another reader might be knowledgeable about the point you raise. Your research and drafting is very impressive. Looking forward to further installments!
  18. Many ships from about 1810 on had diagonal deck planking. There are a number of deck plans c.1810-15 in the NMM collection showing this form of construction. I suspect Seppings may have played a role in this (then) innovation.
  19. Nice technique, Alexey. Thank you for sharing this neat method.
  20. Jaxboat: I've used Fiebing's dye - both brown and black - for some years now, with no apparent fading. Of course, the models are never exposed to direct sunlight.
  21. And effective. Great idea, Dave.
  22. Greg is right: resist the temptation to permanently fix anything too soon. You mentioned that when cutting the scores in the beam arms the saw blade was too low. Much better to file the scores deeper than had the blade been set too high!
  23. Good going, Maury. She's shaping up nicely.
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