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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. I'd really question the need for melamine. I use either ⅝" or ¾" quality ply with several coats of gesso, well sanded between coats, to provide a level surface that will easily take pencil marks. (Gesso both sides to prevent warping.) The board is stabilised from beneath with two inset longitudinal 1 x 2 pine boards on edge, well screwed down.
  2. It's always good to see your progress; the work of someone who knows exactly what he's doing. Lovely!
  3. If you are referring to the standard, it usually had the gammoning slot on its underside. It was firmly bolted through the knee of the head and was certainly strong enough to resist upward forces from the gammoning and bowsprit. Remember that there were also bobstays to reduce this load. The standard is rarely shown in the 'as built' sheer plan.
  4. Aleksandr: The name is derived from an American English slang word meaning 'to vomit'. I absolutely agree with Hubac's comment on the quality of your carving work.
  5. Thank you for the conversation with your wife that you've shared. Perhaps you could call your mascarone 'Pukey'. He's beautifully done, by the way,
  6. Your attention to detail is astonishing! If you want to try gold leaf again, there is a new system that i used recently and works like a charm. No waiting for the right amount of 'tack' for oil gilding or messing with rabbitskin glue for water gilding. It's called Kölner Instacoll and made in your country - Germany! It's in two parts, water based. Check it out.
  7. Nice work on the moldings. The angled joints are also very neatly done!
  8. Generally earth pigment paints are not high in chroma (bright and intense in color). Also impurities in the pigments used would dull the color as well. So, your suspicion that bright yellow on a period model is incorrect is very justified! The other factor to consider is the effect of distance and scale. The further one is from an object, the more the color sees to be leached out and, in the far distance, bluer. The smaller the scale of your model, the colors should be more diluted, as it were, so that the model does not look toy-like.
  9. Sorry to read of the difficulties of some of your crew friends. Read Three Men in a Boat....
  10. When cutting the bevels, leave them a little full to allow for final fairing. You can always take a little more off, but not put it back on!
  11. Rightly or wrongly, I miter jointed the counter and quarter gallery planking.
  12. Nice and methodical. My variation on your approach was to carve the piece as you have, but thinner, then plank the outer surface with very thin stock.
  13. To cast your own cannon you will need to learn how to make RTV (room-temperature vulcanising) rubber mold from a master pattern. Alternatively, you could build up the missing cascabel with a modeling compound and panit the completed cannon. Another route woudl be to buy quality resin-cast or 3D printed pieces.
  14. But for the next model you do, Thukydides! It's amazing the problems one can avoid on a subsequent model. But there are new pitfalls and traps instead....
  15. It's always a problem when one tiny thing sets off a line of dominos.... One realises how interdependent so many things were on a ship. I'm sure you'll arrive at a suitable solution. Bowsprit mast? Did you mean bowsprit?
  16. Clutch pencil and a hard lead - I use 4H - give happiness!
  17. Good on you to do the re-do! To tone down any color, just mix the tiniest bit of its complimentary color in. (The appropriate complimentary is found on the opposite side of the color wheel from the color you are trying to tame.)
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