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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    The issue with square-hole drawplates is that they are designed for pulling metal wire through. It essentially squeezes metal; it doesn't cut. Wood needs to be cut or shaved; it really doesn't squeeze well! That is why a drawplate for wood, such as the Byrnes' is of a different form than a traditional jewelers' drawplate. I don't know of such a square drawplate design on the market.
  2. druxey
    As Allan wrote, you can edge bend, but within limits.
  3. druxey
    Much grist for your mill, Sam!
  4. druxey
    Nice neat job on the reef points! Looking very good.
  5. druxey
    Looks much more convincing, Meriadoc. However, I really wonder if a topgallant yard and sail was fitted. Perhaps just a less tapered, squarer topsail?
  6. druxey
    Coming along beautifully!
  7. druxey
    Um, if you case your finished model (which you should) dust will not be a problem! Besides, dusting models can damage them all too easily.
  8. druxey
    And yes, that it the right way to go about it. Use the thinnest line you can: I've used fine fly-tying brown line 6/0. usually crowsfeet look too clumsy on models.
  9. druxey
    Congratulations Toni! A very nice result. Of courser the question is, what next?
  10. druxey
    Might the downward arm of the bracket be angled even a little more to echo the converging lines of the row of lights or is it just the angle of the photo that makes it appear to slope less? Looking great!
  11. druxey
    Well, Peregrinator, you really are back now! Why would you need to stain or varnish the deck? The way it appears now looks fine. That might solve that question!
  12. druxey
    This close-up of the painting seems to show that it was 'skinned', that is to say, over-zealously cleaned at some point. Much fine detail has gone. Notice the spotty appearance of the dark paint, where the white ground is showing through and near-absence of some lines. A pity.
  13. druxey
    Love the steering gear and hammock battens!
  14. druxey
    Good progress, Meriadoc. Your mast and sail plan look rather too tall for a vessel of that size. I'm guessing that it should shrink by 15% or a little more.
  15. druxey
    Just remember that ports, unless located at midships, are not square! The WMISIYCMIC principle: (Why make it simple if you can make it complicated.)
  16. druxey
    Congratulations, Tomek. An excellent result and lovely model. I hope things remain peaceful in your neighborhood.
  17. druxey
    Peregrinator indeed with all those moves! Welcome back. Yes, a few changes since the Great Crash, including a few members who have gone now to meet Davy Jones,. However, this is still a lively place to visit.
  18. druxey
    Bienvenue ici! Welcome. Your English is good, so don't worry. If the Cutty Sark was your first model, that was very well done.
  19. druxey
    Ow! Like burning down the house to get rid of a spider.... You were lucky not to ignite the whole ship. Glad you were able to repair battle damage. Another great reason to use PVA: it can be easily dissolved in rubbing alcohol. As long as you keep open flame away from it!
  20. druxey
    A very neat, one-piece solution, Siggi. Is there a reason why the steps up to the roundhouses are offset from the doorways?
  21. druxey
    Terrific work, Gary. She looks quite delightful.
  22. druxey
    Welcome aboard, Ken. Most of us have a bottle of rubbing alcohol (95% isopropanol) handy for ungluing PVA and aliphatic glue joints. Just used some a few minutes ago! Good luck re-working your inherited model.
  23. druxey
    Lovely louvres!
  24. druxey
    Ouch. That mis-measurement hurt. Glad you were able to fix it using a tool I find very useful: The scrap box, aka the Quality Control Center. Your model is looking very good indeed, Ian.
  25. druxey
    The views down on the wrap-around balcony are very informative. Thank you for this latest installment, HH.

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