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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. I've made two-part pins as you suggest (but at a larger scale). The handle section simply has a short stub to insert in the rail. I did not have issues with collet 'pinch'. In your case, the lower part could simply be of wire - no turning required.
  2. My rule of thumb for laying up is that the strands end up roughly 45 degrees to the axis of the rope. If you look at Chuck's line, you'll see this clearly.
  3. OK, Clare, why wasn't it tiled like the rest of the roof? So, you are going ahead with the modifications. Good for you. I find rubbing alcohol (95%) does a good job of dissolving PVA and yellow glues. The advantage is that the very low water content won't warp the wood. It also evaporates very quickly so that you can continue work using the same pieces in just minutes. Looking good!
  4. Thanks, Eberhard. So you do in fact have a black hole, albeit a small one, in your workshop! One excellent book on faux finishes is Professional Painted Finishes by Ina Brousseau Marx, Allen and Robert Marx, Watson Guptill, 1991.
  5. Silly question, Eberhard; you say the completed belaying pin usually shears off cleanly. How did you manage to retrieve it? I find small turned parts fly off forever more often then not - and they are bigger then your belaying pins!
  6. Amazing what a little practice does! This is quite a challenging hull shape to plank, by the way. The moisture/hair dryer method is a good one for refining the shape and fit.
  7. The official name for those stoppers are pawls. Nice detail of the rings attached for a rope. Setting them manually would be dangerous! I thought that they were kicked by foot, but this shows that wasn't the way it was done. Thank you for pointing this out, Siggi. It looks as if the end that engages the whelp of the capstan is a solid block.
  8. Always nice to see unusual subjects modeled! This barge is interesting; do you know why the rudder is so long?
  9. I guess you passed the test, Kevin! Well done. Now, how about the other side...?
  10. The cheeks extend up to the hounds (where the mast head begins) and the bibbs are scored with a zig-zag in to the front of them. The trestle trees sit on top of both of these.
  11. Just catching up with you, Håkan. Very nice work. I, too wish I were fluent in CAD!
  12. That tab soldering issue, Maury: It might help on another occasion to slit the tubing and insert the tabs to solder them.
  13. If wartime, I doubt any time or effort was expended on replacing any decorative elements!
  14. As well as elastic bands, try to get the planks tighter together using clips on the bulkheads. It will save a lot of filling and sanding!
  15. Congratulations, Gregg, on finishing your model. Every model is a learning process and on each one your skills improve. Proof of that is in the shaping of your mast and spars. What was tough the first time comes much more easily each time. Painting parts off-model before assembly is always preferable if possible, instead of masking off. Your sails and rigging look very good. Enjoy the next challenge!
  16. Those aft wale planks are very tricky. It's nothing to do with age, Kevin! You still have the last plank to shape, so that will test you even more! Looking very good so far.
  17. I suspect the Phrygian cap and fasces (bundled sticks from which we derived the word 'fascist) would have been removed! Love the French style extreme tumblehome and hollow forefoot.
  18. I simply painted the traveller ring with raw sienna acrylic to resemble leather. Saves you having to 'chase skirt'! (What a suggestion, Michael!)
  19. It's a decorative 'Spanish' model, probably from the 1920's or '30's. These were very popular back then. We are asked about models like this frequently here. They are fun, but of little value, I'm afraid.
  20. Welcome; and I agree with the comments above.
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