druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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I believe that keeping the boats 'wet' was advantageous: it kept the seams watertight. Demote that bo'sun!- 542 replies
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- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
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Every best wish as you go through rehab. Hopefully you'll be back on track soon.
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I was assuming the writer was referring to photographed rather than flat-scanned images, Kris. Either way, it's a complex task to correct, whether by CAD program or on a drafting board!
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My hunch is that the bulkhead and doors were there for foul weather protection and to retain heat in the space, and the doors were only partially opened to provide some ventilation.
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Ben: your grid method will only partially solve the problem. It will certainly deal with lens distortion, but does nothing to remove paper or printing distortion.
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The doors and bulkheads were removable when clearing for action. In some ships the door section could be swung up under the forecastle out of the way in fine weather.
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Well, welcome back to this thread, Steven! Nice to see progress again. Of course the 'old' stays showed up late to the party. 'Twas ever thus. If you don't mind my mentioning it, those laniards look awfully pale. Are you planning on coloring or toning them down?
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A quick note on dye migration along the grain. Depending on the wood specie and its structure, another method that works on tight-grain wood such as Castello is to knife cut in a stop line. The dye travels to the line, but not beyond. Test on scrap first!
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I'm not sure what your application is, but perhaps a custom filed scratch molding scraper might do the trick?
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Well done. That looks soo much better!
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Welcome aboard, Brian. Glad to have you here!
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Well done, Reece. You've learned a lot out of fixing and re-doing things. This will stand you in good stead for your next model. A very respectable first model indeed!
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I think ammonia is an old wives' tale. One of those handed down bits of unquestioned 'wisdom'. I don't think that there is any scientific evidence that ammonia softens lignin! Hot water, steam or moist heat will do so, cold water and dry heat more slowly. Forget the ammonia; the wood and your eyes will thank you.
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If the lime is well seasoned it should be fine.
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Lovely progress. However, you might consider 'softening' the edges and corners of your mast caps. Here is the advantage of dye: once you have rounded edges off, simply re-dye the exposed wood ((I use a Q-tip) and buff.
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Thanks, Siggi and Mark. I immediately saw the advantage of the air spaces when I saw the photos. A nice 'find' that I've never seen described before.
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Lapwing 1816 Revenue Cutter
druxey replied to iMustBeCrazy's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Then your Lapwing has to be one of the 1817 group. All appear to have been built at PlymouthDockyard (Lyon). -
And, I should mention, cutting tapers on the saw won't cut it (that was intentional!) as mast and spar tapers are not linear but parabolic curves.
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I'm sorry, but it amuses me how difficult folk make things sometimes! I've found the easiest way to make masts and spars is by the simple methods used in the shipyards for centuries using ordinary hand tools. Once you have a square stick of sufficient length, mark out the taper on one face. Plane or use a chisel to cut this on both sides. Re-mark the taper on one of the untapered faces. Repeat. You now have a four-square tapered stick. Mark out for an octagon (use a 7:10:7 proportional scale) along all four faces and note which sections remain square or octagonal. Reserve any square sections. Using a 45 degree spar holder, plane or chisel to cut the octagonal and future round sections. Finally, sand the octagonal sections round using strips of sanding paper. Done. Low tech, low cost in tools. All you need is a good rule, sharp pencil, a sharp small plane or chisel and 45 degree holder.
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Nice observation of the arrangement of the coamings on Centurion! I wonder if that was usual, as I've never seen this detail elsewhere. Do you know of other examples?
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