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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. The cheeks extend up to the hounds (where the mast head begins) and the bibbs are scored with a zig-zag in to the front of them. The trestle trees sit on top of both of these.
  2. Just catching up with you, Håkan. Very nice work. I, too wish I were fluent in CAD!
  3. That tab soldering issue, Maury: It might help on another occasion to slit the tubing and insert the tabs to solder them.
  4. If wartime, I doubt any time or effort was expended on replacing any decorative elements!
  5. As well as elastic bands, try to get the planks tighter together using clips on the bulkheads. It will save a lot of filling and sanding!
  6. Congratulations, Gregg, on finishing your model. Every model is a learning process and on each one your skills improve. Proof of that is in the shaping of your mast and spars. What was tough the first time comes much more easily each time. Painting parts off-model before assembly is always preferable if possible, instead of masking off. Your sails and rigging look very good. Enjoy the next challenge!
  7. Those aft wale planks are very tricky. It's nothing to do with age, Kevin! You still have the last plank to shape, so that will test you even more! Looking very good so far.
  8. I suspect the Phrygian cap and fasces (bundled sticks from which we derived the word 'fascist) would have been removed! Love the French style extreme tumblehome and hollow forefoot.
  9. I simply painted the traveller ring with raw sienna acrylic to resemble leather. Saves you having to 'chase skirt'! (What a suggestion, Michael!)
  10. It's a decorative 'Spanish' model, probably from the 1920's or '30's. These were very popular back then. We are asked about models like this frequently here. They are fun, but of little value, I'm afraid.
  11. Welcome; and I agree with the comments above.
  12. And, if I were stranded in the middle of nowhere, I'd want to have Ruth around with her incredible depth of knowledge!
  13. What is the metal that you are trying to anneal?
  14. What a delightful and complex piece of work, Keith. Closer to jewelry than model making.
  15. Wood will warp across the grain when damp. You should be able to correct this by clamping or using elastic bands and small blocks while gluing the plank end firmly in place.
  16. Yes, surgically cleaning out airbrushes is a drag, but essential. Bob: that is a great tip!
  17. Nicely done, Michael. On jobs like that, one spends far more time annealing than tapping!
  18. Either as Alan wrote, Bell-er-o-fon or Bell - AIR - o- phon (stress on the second syllable).
  19. Sorry to read of your ocular issues, Mark. Hopefully you can at least enjoy reading others' logs until your new lenses are ready.
  20. To completely fair sections of the framing before completing the whole shows a high degree of confidence!
  21. Yes, the legs of bobstays are lashed together. However, the leading edge of your knee of the head looks to be too 'fat'. Look at contemporary models' headwork on the RMG site, such as: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-68158 While this example is a little earlier, the taper of the knee is typical also of later 18th century ships.
  22. Unkind remark about card, Andrew! Those 3D details of pipes and rails give a lot of visual interest to your model, Chris.
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