BLACK VIKING

It’s been awhile since my last post, but I have been working on the Providence. I’ve finished planking the main deck, done some sanding and added a coat of Wipe-on-Poly.  The blue tape is to protect the bulwarks from the sanding dust.  I intend to sand some more and add the partition to the officer’s quarters before I do another coat.  It has been a very hot summer, so far.
 

 

Many thanks Eamonn! I might try to find a way to make it thinner (maybe by using a chisel) but let's see... I'm more inclined to leave it as is since it seems a bit fragile 
 
I finished making the sweep ports. This was not too bad until I realized I forgot to paint the inside of it before it was too late.. Ah well, I am liking the contrast the wood makes with the red, and the back of the ports is kind of hard to see since its so deep, so all is good! 
 
I needed to use a bit of wider wood than the instructions called out for. Fortunately, I had saved all my scraps and used some wider pieces. After cutting each piece, I applied tung oil, then stuck them to the hull using diluted glue. Then the horseshoe shaped hinges and wire pins were also installed using diluted wood glue. 
 
Here are some pics: 

 

 

 

 

Too tired from the checker-board pattern at work this week (off,  on, off, on, etc) to clean up the last failed print and try again, I opted to make another 3D model, the anchors.  Well, 1 model, but the ship gets 4 of them.  The shackles I'll make from brass.

The building of the masts is nearing completion already. Meanwhile installed one royal mast: the fourth section, or uppermost part, of the foremast.

 

Thank you for the feedback!
Managed to get all the eyelets onto their leashes ...

... and threaded them in ...

... and all closed ports are done 🙂

XXXDAn

Whilst I’m doing a log this can cover the upgrade kit and instructions as it’s fresh off the shelf in Hong Kong them a 2 month trip to Australia. 
 
it’s one of the few upgrades that do’nt need any extras. 

So, ordering as you probably well know is problematic during this crisis. So I order up 2 kits with extras and the bulk of this one has arrived, just awaiting some delicious guns from Micromaster in NZ. Best 3D printing I have seen hands down. 
 
The Big Blue Boy upgrade is Newly produced so this should be one of the first builds. 
 
I got some actual aa guns that are not a flat piece of PE which I dislike anyway. The plans are from Profile Morskie. I also got some extra aircraft for the hangar. 
 
The ship was commissioned in 1938 and effectively gone by 1942. Not much to weather 

What I did was lay the keel halves out on my bench, which is kitchen worktop stuff and perfectly flat (you could use a glass sheet if you weren't sure about the bench being flat). I then glued the parts together with a straight edge to absolutely make sure they were even, and sat a weight on top of joint for extra insurance. Also remember that the MDF is perfectly straight too. When that glue set, I added the reinforcement plates, locking parts and keys.
 
You're extremely unlikely to get a bent frame or create any error. Those parts slot together very nicely and the whole joint was absolutely rigid when done.

Six. Three to go and I Was able to take the False frame out.....

This isn’t my best paint work, and I haven’t completed the starboard side gold work, but I am looking for some feedback on this approach to the figurehead.  Does this seem 17th C. French to you guys, or something else?



 

LOL it can be a bit mind boggling on first glance through the book Keith, Hi Emmet- the pin holes are so small they nearly disappear after sanding- i planked the bows like that as terror had second planking- i terminated planks along the runs as the shape of the hull dictated to avoid excessive bending- also a lot of the pins are acting like clamps beside the planks- computer has gone belly up (pinched sons lap top for this so posts will be apart!)
 
started to shape the masts- built the tops supplied for fore and main but altered them as in the following pic.
 

 
also got the mainmast squared for the cheeks and bibs.
 

 
also a shot of the fore mast with the top tried out- to square them roughed them with a craft knife till roughly squared then sanded with a sanding block til the top was a comfy fit.
 

 
also got the sunlights in the deck and the hatch for the chain locker in place.
 
 

 
used humbrol clear windows for the glazing.
 
take care all
keith
 
P.S. since posting this have started to scratchbuild new tops for main and foremasts as occre have thecross trees butted right up against the mast- hopefully will have comp fixed and get some pics on the log.

As my interim article project isn't happening yet, I've spent a day numbering up the parts on all the sheets. It's a BIG job!
 
I've also removed the two-part keel and locking device parts, the bulkheads and the orlop deck sections and dry-fitted them all to get an idea of the size of this thing. I thought you might light to see...
 

 

 

About ready to do walnut planks. They will have to be done slowly as I am going to use wood glue. Will leave upper deck planks for later. While glue dries plan to drill holes for gunports.
 

 

 

Looks a good smooth base, good luck with the top planking Emmet 😉👍

I bet!!!! 😆
 
One HMS Victory will be enough for my lifetime, so I'm glad it's this one.

I'm just glad I don't have to build it again!

My rigging is slow and time consuming, but it's almost over.

 
 
I didn't like rigging, so I thought the cutter ship would end easily, but it's difficult.

 
 

 
 
 

good morning everyone
 
finished making the cabin bulkheads, will do for now
 
im at that stage of doing something i dont enjoy, i wont say hate it, but very close, prepping the hull for colour, sanding priming, filling and repeat.
 
having completed a majority of 2nd planking, i was quite happy to take the weather  window and do some sanding outside, what ever i do, must be better than it was
 

 

An Introduction to Model Ship Building “Dockyard Style”
Adrian Sorolla
ANCRE – French Naval Archeology Collection, 2020
21X30 cm format, softback, 232 pages
Fully illustrated with color photographs and drawings on heavy gloss paper
46 Euros – Available in English, French, Spanish, Italian
ISBN: 979-10-96873-92-0
Available from ancre.fr

 
What’s inside (from the author):  
It is obvious that building a plank on frame model has always generated a certain amount of respect within the model ship building community: even from experienced builders.  Taking on the construction of a first planked on frame model from a set of plans seems daunting. No box of pre-cut pieces, no pre-milled to size lumber in required quantity, no pre-made parts: evidently, all this may seem somewhat intimidating.
 
If being already familiar in building from kits, the concept of building from plans may be considered as the next logical step.  Even if this work may bring us some apprehension, it should not scare us away, as we have already acquired knowledge in model ship building: this is knowledge we can apply through all phases of the construction.
 
This guide was written to help the modeler through the various stages of construction.  As the title indicates, “An introduction to planked on frame model ship building”, this guide will show us through the process of building our first framed model from plans.  A fairly easy model to build while having fun and being supported by the numerous photos and extensive captions provided to analyze and explain each step.  This guide will introduce the modeler to ship building from plans.
    
From the first look into the plans, to the completion of the model, which will be a remarkable piece in your collection, this guide covers all phases of the construction.
 
Although a fairly easy monograph was chosen, the information contained in this guide is such that the explanations can be applied to any other monograph by adapting the advice given and the dimension of the parts needed to whatever project you may take on.
 
The chapter sequence guides us through the logical construction stages.  The different steps are presented while taking into account the fact that not all modelers are equipped with the same tools to fabricate the parts: varying from hand to highly mechanized power tools.
 
The choice of lumber, the interpretation of the plans, the use of templates to cut parts, wood working techniques, the use of cutting tools, the choice and purpose of different material (brass, ebony, boxwood, lead, tin, etc.) including the steps to follows, everything to build your model is explained in this guide.
 
Table of Contents:
Ch. I Choosing the lumber – First look at the plans, axial timbers
Ch. II The frames
Ch. III Axial structure
Ch. IV Frame installation
Ch. V Closing the front and back
Ch. VI Planking the hold
Ch. VII Fitting the hold
Ch. VIII Deck construction -1
Ch. IX Deck construction -2
Ch. X Planking the hull -1, preparation
Ch. XI Planking the hull -2
Ch. XII Deck furnishings and building the forecastle deck
Ch. XIII The quarterdeck and stern
Ch. XIV Notes on masting, ropes and rigging
 
A few notes from the reviewer:
There are a few things that do need some explanation.  Some of the drawings/photos are in French such as “modelisme d’arsenal” translates literally to "Arsenal modelism" or Dockyard Style.  When  you run into that, a few minutes with Google Translate should give you the meaning.  You will also find he refers to things pretty generally except for examples but they’re not hard to follow and sort out how you want to do it for your specific set of plans.
 
The Review:
Since you’ve read this far, you know the philosophy and a bit of the contents.   It does fulfill everything it says it is.  This book is about as good as it gets on how-to build a ship using the ANCRE monographs.  I really can’t praise it enough.  I started reading it about an hour after it showed up and literally could not put it down.  It now resides in my workshop for handy reference.   I really wish this book had been around when I started my first POF ship which was French many years ago.
 
It will take you through selecting the wood, what to expect on the plans, to making and assembling almost everything from start to finish.  For starters, every page has 4 or 5 color photos accompanying the text to illustrate exactly what’s being done. To say it is more detailed than any build log I’ve seen is an understatement.  The written text is crisp and clear which makes understanding a given step easy.
 
While the book is based on the plans of Le Rochfort by Gerard Delacroix at 1:32 scale, where your model might a different scale or different plans, it’s not too hard to covert the information as the basics apply no matter the plans. 
One nice touch is that it’s pointed out that exotic tools aren’t needed.  For example, he shows a coping saw, a scroll saw and a band saw.  He continues the practice with such things as sanding tools, etc.  Also shown and described are the various building boards/jigs.  The setup and use of the basic tools for cutting and shaping the various pieces are there.  Even how to make trunnels simply and quickly with a model table saw.
 
While the audience is intended for French ships using ANCRE monographs, the information is useful for making a ship from plans of any other nation but there are major and minor differences in the way various countries did things so take that under consideration.  Also, if you’re using a POB set of frames such as those for La Belle Poule, once you have the backbone built up start with Chapter 4 but do read Chapters 1 through 3 as there is a lot of great information that applies.
 
I should add that not everything is covered in detail such as the many fittings and rigging details which are in the individual ship’s monograph. However, if you’re interested in building French ships, I recommend as an additional reference  Frolich’s “The Art of Shipmodeling” (also from ANCRE) which goes into the bits and pieces in more depth.  After all, we can’t have too many sources can we?  The more we have, the more we know.
 

Set up all parts today, check and adjust tomorrow, and start production the day after tomorrow
There are 73 panels in total.(Castings and fittings, battens and masts are not included)
Later, I'll spend a week writing instructions

Looking good.  Pretty soon you'll have them singing "Row, row, row your boat" in 4 part harmony.

A quick update. For the time being until all the oarsmen are finished all the updates are just going to be adding more oarsmen, I'm afraid.
 

 
So far I've got 16 finished, four under way. 

Here's the first section of the main mast.  The supplied wood is basswood, so I had to stain it.
 
Regards,
David

Thanks, those seats look cool, but almost $100 to get them and have them covered. So, not sure I'm going that route.
 
Here's a sneak peak of the boat with upper sections temp installed. My main hold up is the fact that I am trying to tool this thing for possible future RC control, because the back cowl section will be permanently mounted, and running stuff from middle to transom would require breaking it apart. It wasn't really set up for removal. So I'm going to be installing bulkheads on the transom and linkage to control the rudder, and I just found out  those water tubes coming out the back of rc boats to the rudder do. It's a cooling water system for the motor. So, I guess I'll be installing two bulkheads for that and pre running some tubing through the back section to the middle. I'm probably going about this all wrong, the learning RC as I go, the intent was for this to be a nice static model, but more and more the idea of it running one day still intrigues me. So, that's why I'm pre running all of this tooling once it comes in then, I can permanently install the back cowl and caulk and paint it.