vaddoc

So I think I should provide an update! Despite my efforts, the sheets never became really flat. Now these sheets can be easily replaced but I thought I d try and rescue them/ The last efford was wetting them thoroughly and leaving them compressed between flat surfaces. 3 days later, they had become mouldy! Bottom line: Wood in this state cannot be salvaged. Actually, water does dissolve some bonds and allow some wood movement. From then on it is indeed heat that softens the lignin but moisture dramatically decreases the temperature threshold for the wood to become soft.

Oh dear Keith! I must admit I feel a bit guilty. I did not take this boat seriously in the beginning, hence the horrible plywood frames and the general casualness in the planning, fairing and overall arrangement. Indeed, I initially intended to paint the boat. But I do agree with you, if after the filler goes in, the wood sanded and sealed, it looks any good, I ll leave it unpainted. Michael, I think you have a point. Bluenose, J class boats and many other (I think mostly American) boats have similar shapes, with horn timbers and the widest part of the hull very close to the stern. I tried to find on the net photos with raw planking but could not find any. So I ve done a few more planks, things are moving on much faster for a number of reasons. The planks are easier to spill, I am getting better at it and there is no need to steam the planks, they take the curve well. Beech is a very nice wood for planking! My frame fairing is abysmal though! A couple of frames aft in particular are very wrong. Not sure what happened but I correct them as I go. So far, the initial plank planning is working. The planks just bellow the turn of the bilge are the ones that I think will need the most spilling and are quite curved. However, they are not impossible and in real life should be feasible to produce. Some photos for your daily dose of planking: The planks are now 65 cm long-6.5 meters in real boat. This is one of the most curved planks. However, this plank will only need 25 cm wide stock. This is the state of the boat now. This plank needs a bit more work before it can be installed. This is plank No 13, just 15 planks more left.

Welcome Halvor! Have fun building your first boat. Regards Vaddoc

I have a similar tool-very unsuitable for modelling. Very aggressive, very inaccurate, awkward to use. I have not find it useful not even for DIY My 2 c!

Indeed a nice book. I found especially useful the part describing top sail arrangements-could not find this info anywhere else. Leather's "Gaff rig" also combines well if someone wants to understand gaff rigging

Wefalck, this is a difficult boat to plank-the shape is odd. Because of the slopping keel, the widest part of the keel (or planking) is actually near the stern, not midships. The hull has a couple of very acute curves that need narrow planks. Also, any other run of the planks, especially with wider planks, would need after spilling such curved planks that would simply be impossible to produce from available stock or would need scarfing which I do not want to do. Another issue is that, in certain areas, quite wide planks could be used but would look very odd, very wide planks and very narrow side by side. Near the sheer and midships my planks indeed get wider but still maintain some symmetry. Planking is not easy. Now, are there different ways to plank a specific hull? I honestly do not know, I have never seen two shipwrights planking the same boat to compare their planking. This would be really very interesting. Or maybe in the future someone will build his own version of the boat and may have a different arrangement. The Yawl I expect will be a very different boat to plank and I suspect the priority there will be plank width symmetry. @Michael_A, maybe you have some thoughts on the planking?

Thanks Michael! I ll be using exclusively treenails, I ve already made a couple of thousand. For the Yawl though, I am thinking of using threaded 0.8 mm brass wire.

Fantastic work Bolin, unfortunately I missed much of the journey. Your lapstrake came out very nice! Very sturdy construction with all these frames and cross members/thwarts.

Many thanks to all! I ve been very busy but managed to add one more plank. Indeed, the planks get easier as I move away from the keel. This plank actually did not need steaming, it happily bent into place. They are still challenging though due to their length-it is very easy to make a mistake. So, again a template was made (3 times) and a very long plank was cut. I am now getting into rhythm and have not had any failures recently-no wasted wood. This and probably the next couple of planks will have the most curvature. Still, they would require stock about 30 cm wide which I think is feasible in real life. Plank in place And the template for the other side made. I then spend about an hour transferring the plank markings from one side to the other. There were a few things that did not make much sense but I ll let the wood make the corrections. Also, my frame fairing is horrible but then again, I have been trimming the frames as I go and on a couple of places added sims. With the plank screwed in place, it is very easy to see low or high spots on the frames just eyeballing the run of the plank. As the plank is not permanently in place, it is easy to make corrections. I will continue posting updates on the planking but I do not expect any excitement. It is a tedious and time consuming job, each pair of planks takes about a week so I expect planking to take about 3 more months-unless life gets in the way. As you might have suspected by now, I really like planking! I wonder however if it is time to go back to the Yawl and start planning that planking. It is a very different shape and it will be lapstrake so a bit of a different (more difficult) approach will be needed. If I have time this week I might bend a few batens and if you are not desperately fed up reading about planks, you are all most welcome! Regards Vaddoc

Maybe best to post a photo showing the problem.

I go up to 400 for no reason at all, just because I like the feel of the wood. Or use 0000 steel wool which I think is equivalent grit. If the wood is to be painted, I like it very smooth. But even 240 is probably ok.

Many thanks to all for your likes and input. I ve created another thread where I presented my way of spilling, may help others in their projects. Now Michael, I did a bit of search and given it some thought-I think you are right, this must be a vertical tiler in the plans. This is why the tiler is so short-I had noticed it and could not understand why. Well, this will need some further thought, there should be lines on rollers going aft. Hmmm... On a different note, I finished one more pair of planks. These planks are a bit curved but still acceptable, they would need stock only 25 cm wide. These planks were easier to make and have less of a twist but still need steaming. This is how the plank wants to sit unsteamed I now wait a day after steaming to allow the wood to shrink. The hull slowly is starting to emerge. Vaddoc

Dear all As I am currently immersed in planking, I thought it might be useful to share my way of spilling planks. In my fishing boat log I have presented in detail the way the plank run can be defined but it is a long and difficult read. Showing how to spill planks is much easier and perhaps will help some builders. So lets spill a plank in the fishing boat. T he positions of all planks have been marked on the port side and these positions will need to be transferred over to the starboard side as we go along. The planks should be twins but in reality they never are, at least in my boats so every plank needs to be individually spilled. A good compass is needed, this is the one I use The plank we will be making will be a starboard plank, its sister plank on the port side is already installed. A picture is a thousand words: This is the port plank steamed in place and the markings for all the rest of the planks are visible. We need to make this plank for the other side. Now, every new plank will have two edges. The bottom one that meets the previous plank, and this needs to be shaped so it fits well, and the upper free edge that we will define ourselves based on our markings and planning of the planks but needs to be as fair as possible. I use either very stiff card or thick cardboard to make templates of the bottom edge. I cut pieces as long as possible, hold them close to the edge of the previous plank and use a compass to mark the pattern. I run the compass along the piece of cardboard with the needle on the edge of the previous plank and the pencil tip on the card. Then I cut on the line with a very sharp knife and repeat on the next segment. I glue and connect the pieces into a long continuous card pattern. This is how it should look. This is 1:10 scale and this plank is 60 cm long. The card needs to lie comfortably without absolutely any edge bend. Even a tiny strain on the card will produce huge gaps on the other end of the plank and wood will not tolerate edge bending (It will, but only a little). This is the most crucial step, if there is any doubt the template must be readjusted. This particular template was the third one. Do not make the card pieces too wide because the angles will change and you ll be getting constantly erratic results. Then, mark the positions of the frames on the card pattern. Then, very carefully, making sure there is no edge bend at all, secure the card pattern on the wood sheet. Run a pencil (I use 0.3 mm mechanical one) along the edge and also mark the positions of the frames. This is the result This is the bottom edge of our plank and should fit closely to the previous plank. We need now to define the upper edge so we need the thickness of the plank at the various frames. On the port side, this thicknesses are already marked. To make sure that the two sides are as similar as possible, I ve been marking the starboard side measuring from the sheer. So the upper edge of our plank is marked in all frames. Now, these widths need to be transferred to the plank, again using the compass. The width at the stem will be defined using the contralateral plank end. All sites marked. These points need to be connected but with a fair line. To do this we must use a baten, arranging it so that it is close to all the points. Now this line, which is the upper edge of the plank, does not pass through all the points but it is ok. Actually, if we put the contralateral plank on the pattern, the widths are exactly the same! On this boat I use a very sharp knife to cut the plank with multiple passes, breaking off a segment of the blade every couple of passes. After careful cutting to the lines, the plank is produced. Placing the plank on the boat, it does not fit well. No need to panic, it just needs a bit of micro adjustement. We need to find the high spots and carefully sand them so the gaps will start closing. These are the high spots in this case. After sanding and with a bit of edge bending, the plank seems to fit fine now. These micro-adjustements and a bit of edge bevelling can continue until the fit is very close but for this boat this is enough, with some filler it will be fine. I also lightly sand the upper edge to smooth out the peaks and make fitting the next plank easier. Both planks steamed in place. And that's it! Now repeat the process 30 odd times and planking is done. Vaddoc

Just caught up Michael, the things I read are out of this world! Such a great pleasure to follow your work! Now, I do get that copper annealed is soft and can bend, stretch and be worked easily until it work-hardens. However, from the stage above left how did you avoid dog ears and the edges folding? Is it possible to re-distribute and shrink the metal with the hammer?

This is indeed interesting. I actually have been casually looking from time to time for some plans for a Uboat on the net, mainly to design the boat on CAD and take it from there but could not find any. This kit looks ideal for this purpose, photo copy the parts and use it as background template for the CAD drawings. Just saying...

Welcome Reynard! Enjoy your projects and do start a log.

Apparently, the chuck can be replaced with collets but not the other way around. There are three versions of the tool, I got the one without speed control (as I have it on the power source) and the tip of the tool is different, there is no space to fit the chuck.

Dear all There do not seem to be too many information on the performance of the Proxon rotary tools and especially how they compare to the very common Dremel. I thought I d post my experience and opinion on this issue. I got a Dremel 3000 with the flexible attachment about 4 years ago. It recently failed and I bought a Proxxon Micromot 60. Now, in my opinion the reason the Dremel failed is actually a design and material fault. It has a locking pin so that the shaft will not rotate and the jaws can be unlocked. This is however very shallow, engages the shaft maybe less than 1 mm and the pin is not hardened-nor is the shaft. So it is a matter of time to get worn and then simply the jaws cannot open. Replacement is £15 in the UK. I was actually given a replacement locking pin but after installing it the whole assembly is a bit worn so it does not work very well and cannot take much pressure and even the new pin slips. Better to buy a whole new unit at £45. In regards to the flexible shaft, personally I did not find it useful at all. Some pictures now. The most common complaint is that you absolutely have to buy the Proxxon power source. I already had it so buying the Proxxon made sense. Now, the Proxxon is smaller and lighter. It only needs finger tightening whereas the Dremel needs a small wrench-this is actually important. The Dremel goes up to crazy speeds but due to lack of torque it slows down. The Proxxon seems to have a lot of torque and does not slow down-less vibration as well but only goes to 20,000 rpm or so and it is more pleasant to use. This is the locking pin that commonly fails. It is tiny. I have not seen the pin on the Proxxon but it seems to have much longer travel and be more robust. Actually, I installed the new pin and tried to unlock the chuck. I did not operate the tool but just by trying, the pin already got worn! Another piece that got worn is the part that compresses the collets as well as the wrench. The collets are also different. The Proxxon ones are larger, harder and have three jaws. They look and probably are better but I have had no issue with the Dremel ones. Overall, the Proxxon seems to be the nicer tool but is more expensive. Proxxon also makes a 220 V version that seems pretty good and more powerful. The Dremel may be better for DIY but for modelling, this Proxxon tool is very nice. Ona final note, I bought the Proxxon chuck to replace the collets but apparently it cannot be fitted on this tool-shame Vaddoc

Not sure if it is of help but my last boat had a canvas deck. I used cotton cloth, stretched it, soaked it with diluted PVA (couple of hands), then lightly sanded it and then painted it. Came out pretty good.

These are wonderful news!

A bit more progress so another short post. All the planks so far have been difficult to make, mainly to the significant twist the wood had to take. This twist makes the plank to deviate so getting an accurate template is difficult-the slightest degree of edge bend will cause problems. The next plank I hope will be the last of the tricky ones. Indeed, it took many attempts to get card patterns that looked ok but there was no waisted wood-I got both sides with the first try. I think I am getting better at it! This is the paper pattern that defines only the shape of the one (bottom) edge. Many more followed to fine tune the shape The plank cut and dry fitted. I was concerned how it would fit with the previous vertical plank but actually this was not a problem. This plank again is very straight, so far the initial planning of the run of the planks seems to be ok. Now, this plank is 60 cm long, in the actual boat it would be a 6 m plank. I am sure though that stock 6 m long and 20 cm wide should be available. Otherwise the planks would have to be scarfed. Then I made the other side. The two planks are not identical! Then both planks were steamed and clamped in place. There are a couple of planks that seem a bit low and do not touch the planks well. The 2 mm planks are so stiff that easily show the problematic areas. Maybe they will need shiming-maybe not The fit at the stern looks pretty good. I really expected this area to cause massive problems, I guess Chapelle knew what he was doing! Now, I decided not to screw the planks immediately because I noticed that the gaps between the previous two planks have widened. I guess Noel and Wefalck were right to raise concerns. This will be sorted with some filler. This time, I got the bow heights right This photo however raises another issue. At some point, I will need to taper the stem. From the keel up, it will progressively start to get more narrow , following the angle of the planking. I should have probably done it earlier, at least to take the bulk of he wood off. I am not sure whether to do it now or later. To remove so much wood, sharp chisels but also rough handling will be needed. Maybe do it after planking, when the boat will be very stiff but then I will need to be vey careful not to mark the planks. Maybe a middle way would be to keep using screws so that any damaged plank could be replaced. I d really be interested to hear your thoughts on this! Vaddoc

Thanks Keith! It might seem complex but in reality Carvel planking just needs patience and batens. Clinker will need a bit extra head scratching but more later on, when the planking of the Yawl starts. Not to worry Wefalck, it is great that you all are on board on this journey!

This is wonderful model GL, congratulations! I think the worse is behind us, we ll find a balance soon. An Ancre monograph, this sounds very exciting. After you ve tied the loose end of course...

Indeed Wefalck, this is what I intended to do, leave the planks wider to allow me to do fine adjustments and create bevels, so that the planks would touch edge to edge despite the angle. In practice, this is very difficult to do even at 1:10 scale-at least for me. However, what I do do is sand the high spots on the edge that meets the previous plank so that they meet better, but also sand the other edge to create a fair curve with as few high and low spots as possible-this makes fitting the next plank easier. I forgot to do this on the garboard though.

Hi Noel I do not think so. Indeed, there can be a large difference in width (negligible on length) between wet and dry wood, I ve seen 20% quoted for some woods and the Wood database site mentions that beech has high movement in service. However, one thing that impressed me is that the wood comes out of the steamer hot and pliable but very quickly cools down and actually feels very dry to touch-this takes seconds. Very different to soaking beech in water, the wood still becomes pretty pliable but is soaking wet-dries quickly but takes a few minutes. In any case, the wood is cut to template when dry and is tested on the boat when it dries after steaming-its me template that is wrong. The fitting issues are caused by the card paper that slightly edge bends, even 1 degree will create huge gaps in a 60 cm plank. Also the width of the paper template is important-too wide and the paper will sit at a different angle on the frame, causing the plank to deviate. Ideally, I would like to use 0.8 mm plywood but it will be too expensive. Thanks for visiting! Vaddoc