Bob Cleek

Draw plates work differently on wood than they do on wire, so there is a subtle difference in the plates that cut the two materials and the way they are used. The draw plate compresses the wire and the wire is lengthened when its diameter is reduced.  On the other hand, a draw plate shaves material from the wiideb workpiece to reduce its diameter. I learned this from druxey and Jaager in this thread: 
There's also such a thing as a wooden draw plate, made out of wood, that is used for making the diameter of woven jewelry chain uniform. It's a different animal entirely.
 
I believe that wire is compressed through a draw plate by pulling the wire "in the big side of the hole and out the small side of the hole," while wood is shaved with a draw plate by pulling the wood "in the small side of the hole and out the big side of the hole. The critical factor in a good draw plate for reducing the size of wood is the sharpness of the edge created at the juncture of the countersunk hole and the flat of the face of the draw plate at the small side of the hole. That's the cutting edge of the scraper created in the face of the draw plate. A good wood draw plate needs to have its face where the small end of the holes are ground and lapped flat like the back of a chisel so that the scraping edge is sharp. I believe that's what makes good draw plates, like the ones Jim Byrnes makes and the expensive ones sold by top jewelers' supply houses, work so well... and cost more. 
 

1700 rpm is about the max  for any of this sort of sanding machine.  I have not done the experiment, but I suspect that  mush faster will produce a well charred surface.
If the rotation is in the direction of the feed, you will have an electric motor driven version of a medieval or Roman era projectile throwing weapon war machine.
Even at your slower 4500 rpm, any stock will probably deeply penetrate drywall.  Mere human flesh would not stand a chance.
 
I suggest dropping back 10 yards and buying a Byrnes Sander.  I have experience with making my own - from way before there was any commercial machine - and the ease of use and precision with the Byrnes makes any homemade machine an exercise in pointless frustration. 

The uninitiated don't what they looking at and so don't appreciate the many small details on a good model. That work isn't lost on them, however, because it's the sum total of all those little details that create the compelling impression of reality in a model. They may not notice small details individually, but it's the small details that create the overall impression they certainly will notice, even if they aren't sure exactly why!

Given the source of your posted link, it would serve you to read some of the posts here concerning pirated model kits and the sites that promote this practice - as short sighted and self defeating as pirating is. 
Understand that such a stand requires a want of moral and ethical integrity.  That lack of ethics is a broad based one and not limited to just pirating.  Be careful of anything that involves trust and always CYA there.
 
I took your original inquiry for a single reference to be a literal and sincere request and came as close to matching it I could.  As you are now beginning a sweeping arc on this subject, some time spent chasing the numerous posts here about the volumes available on this subject.  The reality of it is that it takes a library to cover the subject.  There was a blooming of available references in the 70's-90's.  Most of those volumes are out of print or rapidly approaching that status.  The years have taught me to view new books as skeet.  Your window of opportunity to acquire them is often fleeting. 

Do not worry. The smoother the better. You will not regret the work you put in preparing the surface for paint. The primer magnifies faults 10 times, the paint a hundred. 
0000 wool is something like 400-600 grit I would think. No issues, both acrylics and enamels will love your smooth primed surface.

I think you should be happy to get it so slick. This will help to get the actual paint smooth very quickly, provided that primer and paint are compatible.

Carpenter's and machinist's squares, plus clamps, rubber bands, and a lot of fancy jigs sold for the purpose. You may want to do some YouTube watching about basic carpentry and welding assembly skills to get familiar with the options. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=corner+clamps+for+woodworking
 
Or you can buy store-bought ones: 
 

 
https://www.micromark.com/Magnetic-Gluing-Jig-10-1-4-Inch-Square
 
 

https://www.micromark.com/SET-OF-THREE-ANGLE-PLATES
 

 
https://www.micromark.com/Mini-4-Corner-Clamps-1-2-Inch-x-1-2-Inch-to-5-Inch-x-5-Inch-Capacity
 
While MicroMark has perfected the art of separating modelers from their money, I must say that one item they sell that two set-up tools I've found hugely helpful that they offer are their set of small machinist's squares and their thin-beam square, which makes striking square lines on thin sheet stock a breeze.
 

 
https://www.micromark.com/Thin-Beam-Square
 
https://www.micromark.com/Steel-Machinists-Squares-Set-of-3
 
These items sometimes come up on MicroMark's "loss leader discount" sales, too.
 
 

Yes, I found that approach very successful, too. I planed long shavings from the edge of a clear plank. I then took a dowel of the desired diameter to use as a mandrel, wrapped it in plastic wrap to prevent glue from sticking to it, applied PVA to one side of the shaving and wrapped it around the dowel a few times, fastening with a rubber band to dry. There was no need to wet the shavings, as they were already tightly curled as they came off the plane blade. I did this with several shavings next to each other on the dowel. When the glue was set, I mounted the mandrel on my lathe and then sanded the faces of the wrapped shavings until I achieved the thickness of the mast hoops I wanted, and then parted the mast hoops with a fine razor saw. I then removed all the finished mast hoops from the mandrel and hand-sanded them to round off the edges. (A "block sander" for rounding off block edges would probably do a good job rounding the edges, too.) The result were very realistic looking laminated mast hoops. They were also very strong. None broke in later handling, the "grain" running in a concentric circle, as it were.
 
Scale 3/4'=1':
 
 
 

Yes, I found that approach very successful, too. I planed long shavings from the edge of a clear plank. I then took a dowel of the desired diameter to use as a mandrel, wrapped it in plastic wrap to prevent glue from sticking to it, applied PVA to one side of the shaving and wrapped it around the dowel a few times, fastening with a rubber band to dry. There was no need to wet the shavings, as they were already tightly curled as they came off the plane blade. I did this with several shavings next to each other on the dowel. When the glue was set, I mounted the mandrel on my lathe and then sanded the faces of the wrapped shavings until I achieved the thickness of the mast hoops I wanted, and then parted the mast hoops with a fine razor saw. I then removed all the finished mast hoops from the mandrel and hand-sanded them to round off the edges. (A "block sander" for rounding off block edges would probably do a good job rounding the edges, too.) The result were very realistic looking laminated mast hoops. They were also very strong. None broke in later handling, the "grain" running in a concentric circle, as it were.
 
Scale 3/4'=1':
 
 
 

Yes, I found that approach very successful, too. I planed long shavings from the edge of a clear plank. I then took a dowel of the desired diameter to use as a mandrel, wrapped it in plastic wrap to prevent glue from sticking to it, applied PVA to one side of the shaving and wrapped it around the dowel a few times, fastening with a rubber band to dry. There was no need to wet the shavings, as they were already tightly curled as they came off the plane blade. I did this with several shavings next to each other on the dowel. When the glue was set, I mounted the mandrel on my lathe and then sanded the faces of the wrapped shavings until I achieved the thickness of the mast hoops I wanted, and then parted the mast hoops with a fine razor saw. I then removed all the finished mast hoops from the mandrel and hand-sanded them to round off the edges. (A "block sander" for rounding off block edges would probably do a good job rounding the edges, too.) The result were very realistic looking laminated mast hoops. They were also very strong. None broke in later handling, the "grain" running in a concentric circle, as it were.
 
Scale 3/4'=1':
 
 
 

Yes, I found that approach very successful, too. I planed long shavings from the edge of a clear plank. I then took a dowel of the desired diameter to use as a mandrel, wrapped it in plastic wrap to prevent glue from sticking to it, applied PVA to one side of the shaving and wrapped it around the dowel a few times, fastening with a rubber band to dry. There was no need to wet the shavings, as they were already tightly curled as they came off the plane blade. I did this with several shavings next to each other on the dowel. When the glue was set, I mounted the mandrel on my lathe and then sanded the faces of the wrapped shavings until I achieved the thickness of the mast hoops I wanted, and then parted the mast hoops with a fine razor saw. I then removed all the finished mast hoops from the mandrel and hand-sanded them to round off the edges. (A "block sander" for rounding off block edges would probably do a good job rounding the edges, too.) The result were very realistic looking laminated mast hoops. They were also very strong. None broke in later handling, the "grain" running in a concentric circle, as it were.
 
Scale 3/4'=1':
 
 
 

Yes, I found that approach very successful, too. I planed long shavings from the edge of a clear plank. I then took a dowel of the desired diameter to use as a mandrel, wrapped it in plastic wrap to prevent glue from sticking to it, applied PVA to one side of the shaving and wrapped it around the dowel a few times, fastening with a rubber band to dry. There was no need to wet the shavings, as they were already tightly curled as they came off the plane blade. I did this with several shavings next to each other on the dowel. When the glue was set, I mounted the mandrel on my lathe and then sanded the faces of the wrapped shavings until I achieved the thickness of the mast hoops I wanted, and then parted the mast hoops with a fine razor saw. I then removed all the finished mast hoops from the mandrel and hand-sanded them to round off the edges. (A "block sander" for rounding off block edges would probably do a good job rounding the edges, too.) The result were very realistic looking laminated mast hoops. They were also very strong. None broke in later handling, the "grain" running in a concentric circle, as it were.
 
Scale 3/4'=1':
 
 
 

Yes, I found that approach very successful, too. I planed long shavings from the edge of a clear plank. I then took a dowel of the desired diameter to use as a mandrel, wrapped it in plastic wrap to prevent glue from sticking to it, applied PVA to one side of the shaving and wrapped it around the dowel a few times, fastening with a rubber band to dry. There was no need to wet the shavings, as they were already tightly curled as they came off the plane blade. I did this with several shavings next to each other on the dowel. When the glue was set, I mounted the mandrel on my lathe and then sanded the faces of the wrapped shavings until I achieved the thickness of the mast hoops I wanted, and then parted the mast hoops with a fine razor saw. I then removed all the finished mast hoops from the mandrel and hand-sanded them to round off the edges. (A "block sander" for rounding off block edges would probably do a good job rounding the edges, too.) The result were very realistic looking laminated mast hoops. They were also very strong. None broke in later handling, the "grain" running in a concentric circle, as it were.
 
Scale 3/4'=1':
 
 
 

Yes, I found that approach very successful, too. I planed long shavings from the edge of a clear plank. I then took a dowel of the desired diameter to use as a mandrel, wrapped it in plastic wrap to prevent glue from sticking to it, applied PVA to one side of the shaving and wrapped it around the dowel a few times, fastening with a rubber band to dry. There was no need to wet the shavings, as they were already tightly curled as they came off the plane blade. I did this with several shavings next to each other on the dowel. When the glue was set, I mounted the mandrel on my lathe and then sanded the faces of the wrapped shavings until I achieved the thickness of the mast hoops I wanted, and then parted the mast hoops with a fine razor saw. I then removed all the finished mast hoops from the mandrel and hand-sanded them to round off the edges. (A "block sander" for rounding off block edges would probably do a good job rounding the edges, too.) The result were very realistic looking laminated mast hoops. They were also very strong. None broke in later handling, the "grain" running in a concentric circle, as it were.
 
Scale 3/4'=1':
 
 
 

Allan,
 
Wooden mast hoops-  I hesitate giving advice to a professional, BUT:
 
I made wooden mast hoops for a model longboat model that I built by soaking very thin strips of pear that had been soaked in water around a dowel.  The result was a collection of scale thickness mast hoops.  That had to be slipped over the mast prior to rigging as they would then be trapped by the shrouds and stays.
 
When I added furled sails, the tension of the thread between the hoops and the sail bolt rope caused some of them to break.  Fortunately, I was able to salvage enough of them to at least give the illusion that I wanted.  
 
Moral of of the story, test before use.
 
Roger
 
 

Carpenter's and machinist's squares, plus clamps, rubber bands, and a lot of fancy jigs sold for the purpose. You may want to do some YouTube watching about basic carpentry and welding assembly skills to get familiar with the options. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=corner+clamps+for+woodworking
 
Or you can buy store-bought ones: 
 

 
https://www.micromark.com/Magnetic-Gluing-Jig-10-1-4-Inch-Square
 
 

https://www.micromark.com/SET-OF-THREE-ANGLE-PLATES
 

 
https://www.micromark.com/Mini-4-Corner-Clamps-1-2-Inch-x-1-2-Inch-to-5-Inch-x-5-Inch-Capacity
 
While MicroMark has perfected the art of separating modelers from their money, I must say that one item they sell that two set-up tools I've found hugely helpful that they offer are their set of small machinist's squares and their thin-beam square, which makes striking square lines on thin sheet stock a breeze.
 

 
https://www.micromark.com/Thin-Beam-Square
 
https://www.micromark.com/Steel-Machinists-Squares-Set-of-3
 
These items sometimes come up on MicroMark's "loss leader discount" sales, too.
 
 

Beaders/Jewelers use a piece called a "crimp" with special pliers to attach the crimp and lock the wires in place.  Small diameter tube - various finishes - put the end of the wire through the crimp, thread on the eyebolt, hook or turnbuckle and put the end of the wire back through the crimp and crimp the tube with the pliers and cut the excess wire off.
 
The photo shows a crimp at the top of the turnbuckle on the wire rigging line.  This is a 1:12 scale model with 7 strand SS wire about 0.015 diameter. 

I wanted to place a note here as a complete novice to rope making. I purchased Syren’s Rope Rocket and some Mara thread and have been trying to get some nice rope. I think I’ve finally found the trick for me and that is to put a lot more initial twists in than you realize. Compared to my first batch I think I may be putting 10x the initial twists in and it has helped significantly with unraveling. There is definitely an art to it, but I think I’m heading in the right direction.

Best way is with a template of some sort.  I use a couple of scrap pieces of wood that I have joined absolutely square using an engineers square to check the angle while the glue was setting.  Pieces can then be held against it while being joined.  I'm sure other members will have far more sophistcated methods.
 
John

Carpenter's and machinist's squares, plus clamps, rubber bands, and a lot of fancy jigs sold for the purpose. You may want to do some YouTube watching about basic carpentry and welding assembly skills to get familiar with the options. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=corner+clamps+for+woodworking
 
Or you can buy store-bought ones: 
 

 
https://www.micromark.com/Magnetic-Gluing-Jig-10-1-4-Inch-Square
 
 

https://www.micromark.com/SET-OF-THREE-ANGLE-PLATES
 

 
https://www.micromark.com/Mini-4-Corner-Clamps-1-2-Inch-x-1-2-Inch-to-5-Inch-x-5-Inch-Capacity
 
While MicroMark has perfected the art of separating modelers from their money, I must say that one item they sell that two set-up tools I've found hugely helpful that they offer are their set of small machinist's squares and their thin-beam square, which makes striking square lines on thin sheet stock a breeze.
 

 
https://www.micromark.com/Thin-Beam-Square
 
https://www.micromark.com/Steel-Machinists-Squares-Set-of-3
 
These items sometimes come up on MicroMark's "loss leader discount" sales, too.
 
 

You might want to check out Little Machine Shop. They are very highly rated by the model machining guys. https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_category.php?category=1963256912  They probably can advise you if you give them a call. You'll want something that mounts easily on your X-Y table. You may want to stick with the vise that is made by the company that made your table to be sure you get one that matches up. You can always cobble together a hold-down arrangement, but it's nice to be able to have a vise that lines up with the slots on your table.
 
Check also Vanda-Lay Industries. https://www.vanda-layindustries.com/ They make a line of drill presses and drill/mills based on a Dremel-type rotary tool (or a Foredom flex shaft type) that gets loads better ratings than the Dremel brand drill press does. I've dealt with them and they are good folks. (They are a small family business that reminds me of Jim Byrnes.) Their mill vise is only $40.00 and shipping is free if you buy it with their mill.  That's about the least expensive vise I've seen around lately. https://www.vanda-layindustries.com/html/mill_accessories.html
 

Draw plates work differently on wood than they do on wire, so there is a subtle difference in the plates that cut the two materials and the way they are used. The draw plate compresses the wire and the wire is lengthened when its diameter is reduced.  On the other hand, a draw plate shaves material from the wiideb workpiece to reduce its diameter. I learned this from druxey and Jaager in this thread: 
There's also such a thing as a wooden draw plate, made out of wood, that is used for making the diameter of woven jewelry chain uniform. It's a different animal entirely.
 
I believe that wire is compressed through a draw plate by pulling the wire "in the big side of the hole and out the small side of the hole," while wood is shaved with a draw plate by pulling the wood "in the small side of the hole and out the big side of the hole. The critical factor in a good draw plate for reducing the size of wood is the sharpness of the edge created at the juncture of the countersunk hole and the flat of the face of the draw plate at the small side of the hole. That's the cutting edge of the scraper created in the face of the draw plate. A good wood draw plate needs to have its face where the small end of the holes are ground and lapped flat like the back of a chisel so that the scraping edge is sharp. I believe that's what makes good draw plates, like the ones Jim Byrnes makes and the expensive ones sold by top jewelers' supply houses, work so well... and cost more. 
 

You might want to check out Little Machine Shop. They are very highly rated by the model machining guys. https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_category.php?category=1963256912  They probably can advise you if you give them a call. You'll want something that mounts easily on your X-Y table. You may want to stick with the vise that is made by the company that made your table to be sure you get one that matches up. You can always cobble together a hold-down arrangement, but it's nice to be able to have a vise that lines up with the slots on your table.
 
Check also Vanda-Lay Industries. https://www.vanda-layindustries.com/ They make a line of drill presses and drill/mills based on a Dremel-type rotary tool (or a Foredom flex shaft type) that gets loads better ratings than the Dremel brand drill press does. I've dealt with them and they are good folks. (They are a small family business that reminds me of Jim Byrnes.) Their mill vise is only $40.00 and shipping is free if you buy it with their mill.  That's about the least expensive vise I've seen around lately. https://www.vanda-layindustries.com/html/mill_accessories.html
 

Any time your push stick gets bit by the blade, it's time to do some serious analysis to identify why that happened. Better a "sacrificial" push stick gets bit than your flesh, but even so, it ain't supposed to happen.  

You might want to check out Little Machine Shop. They are very highly rated by the model machining guys. https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_category.php?category=1963256912  They probably can advise you if you give them a call. You'll want something that mounts easily on your X-Y table. You may want to stick with the vise that is made by the company that made your table to be sure you get one that matches up. You can always cobble together a hold-down arrangement, but it's nice to be able to have a vise that lines up with the slots on your table.
 
Check also Vanda-Lay Industries. https://www.vanda-layindustries.com/ They make a line of drill presses and drill/mills based on a Dremel-type rotary tool (or a Foredom flex shaft type) that gets loads better ratings than the Dremel brand drill press does. I've dealt with them and they are good folks. (They are a small family business that reminds me of Jim Byrnes.) Their mill vise is only $40.00 and shipping is free if you buy it with their mill.  That's about the least expensive vise I've seen around lately. https://www.vanda-layindustries.com/html/mill_accessories.html