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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Here's my $.02. Do what you want or feel a need to do. It's hobby, a model. Not life and death. We, for the most part, aren't rivet counters all the time except maybe on our own projects. If you hadn't pointed out the boom issues, how many of us would have noted it tossed a rock at you?
  2. Would a bit of heat from a hair dryer help settle the tracks and give them some sag at the top?
  3. Welcome Adrian, to MSW. I agree with what Bruce said. I suggest opening a topic in the research area here: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/13-discussions-for-ships-plans-and-project-research-general-research-on-specific-vessels-and-ship-types/
  4. Bill, go up to post #5 and download the PDF. It has that info.
  5. Eric, you're doing the right thing, IMO. When in doubt, walk away and with the symptoms you mentioned... definitely walk away and take care of you.
  6. Thanks, Richard. I just "spot" looked and didn't see any.
  7. I grab a chair also, Steven. Sounds like another fascinating reconstruction.
  8. Use the cross-section plans for the cross-section and the full build plans for the full build. Don't mix them. There's differences in the plans due the area being shown and some issues with how things "looked" and fit.
  9. Any possibility of the NRG offering those figures as 1:64 scale?
  10. Pre-fairing? Yes, it's doable. However, pre-faring is ,more like roughing in than anything else. They still need to be fixed in place so especially with kits and bulkheads it's just easier and better to fair after putting them in place.
  11. I hope others have an answer but I'm not sure there is a book on Montanes as such. We do have some logs for her. A bit of Googling sends one all over the place with most links being for the kit.
  12. Underhill is a "how to" book while Modfeld is a "what this is" book. Both are very useful though.
  13. Do a search on "Tally Ho". We have several posts and links to the rebuild.
  14. Beautiful work, Grant. I love the colors and the detail work.
  15. Personally, I have no idea. However, if you don't get an answer, open a new topic in this sub-forum. Have you done a search using the search feature?
  16. I think many of us wish our macros and our work came out half as well as yours, Johann.
  17. The good news is, the French did taper. Also, the amount of taper allows for the slot to be cleaned up and fit the taper both fore and aft and top to bottom. So I feel that I can build the stem and do what's needed. Maybe have to make some minor tweeks to things but doable. I may actually have to remove some wood from the carving to fit the proper taper but not much and only on the backside. ] Now this is all based on using the plans and the figurehead for measurements to fully sort out what I'm up against. I'm still going to cut out and assemble the stem before cutting the figurehead and verify. I'm approaching a stopping point on the Sphinx so a few days working the Belle Poule's stem will be a good break.
  18. Just one kit (on the bench) and one scratch build on hold. Trying not to order any more plans or kits for now. Yes, I know resistance is futile.
  19. Thanks, B.E. It definitely is a small space with many tiny, fiddly parts. I'm glad I'm finished with that area for now. I'm at the point of adding the stern and galley windows. More fiddly bits like sizing the "glass" and fitting into place. I had hoped the wax "sticks" would help on this but alas, they don't hold the windows long enough to get into position. Time to re-think and find other options.
  20. Good points on the figurehead mounting and the stem tapering. I'll take a break from the Sphinx for a few days and build the stem and see what needs to be tweeked. It could be as simple as tapering except at that point where the figurehead sits.
  21. OC, they're acetate. Hmm..... I realize that I'm an idiot. I just noticed, the instructions say "file them abit".... I guess I'll just test my files and see which ones work the best. Thanks though. You made me go re-read and find what I missed.
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