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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Thanks, for comments, likes and well-wishes. No pics yet, but the wales are on. Had a bit of a problem with one that decided to warp and curve along the grain. Not sure why but I think I've got it fixed. Right now, I'm doing the black strakes and will follow up with pics then.
- 505 replies
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- vanguard models
- Sphinx
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Have you tried a Ouija board? Sounds like that might work as well the manufacturers instructions/list. I'll keep my fingers crossed it's just the filament but considering all the problems you had early, I'm beginning to wonder.....
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- Finished
- Flower-class
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I missed it too. Congrats on a beautiful model.
- 108 replies
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- leon
- brigantine
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Proxxon TSG 250/E disc sander
mtaylor replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Blame it on fuel costs and the fact the trucking industry is hurting for drivers and rigs. -
Oh... crap. Let's hope it's the filament. That shopping list for troubleshooting sounds like it just swap parts and hope for the best. Not good.
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That is one huge and impressive hull. I hope the rest of the planking goes as well. What method are you using on bending the cherry planks?
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D9R by Kevin - Meng - 1/35 - PLASTIC - started 2015
mtaylor replied to Kevin's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
The weathering on the blade is striking. Keep going, you're showing mad skills at this. -
Welcome to MSW, Dave. Basic rule of thumb is to start "small"... by that one mast or none. You've received some good advise. The half hull model might something to look into as it's focus is on planking. There's several logs here which would give you some idea of it's difficulty.
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Follow the doc's advice is the best thing and not always the easiest. I hope you have a full recovery by the time the doc says "go back to your ships".
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Have you come across any paintings of the ironclads? They might be a better source for figuring out colors. I think the iron plating was basicaly black cast iron.
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Looks really great and that piece of wood does look like driftwood and complements the display.
- 71 replies
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- Charles W Morgan
- bottle
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The picture you posted in #29 looks pretty monochromatic to me. In the past, I've seen other photos of the early tanks at the front and they all seemed to be the same. Camouflage really wouldn't have worked at the front as there was next to no green anything except maybe the stagnant water in the shell holes.
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I've PM'd Chuck on this to make sure he sees it. He's probably the most qualified to answer you. Not all Chinese kits are made by pirates but thanks for thinking ahead on this.
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Thanks for the likes, the comments, and following along. The other side is now finish sanded. I think when I get to the step for painting, I may need to do some more sanding and possibly filling. I'm at the point of ready to do the first markup of the waterline. Need to dig out the plans. And..... I will be painting the wales and planking down to the water line black. I had some serious issues (mine not the kit) with the stern planking area and had to fix it with quite a bit of homemade filler. Now to get a grip mentally and work through my issues. I'd like to be a lot further along when I go in for my heart surgery. I'm goal setting, I know... usually a bad thing but in this case, being close will count. Here's a pic of the other side sanded.....
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- vanguard models
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It very well could be the brand of filament. Just like all acrylic paints aren't the same.
- 460 replies
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Manning the capstan
mtaylor replied to dafi's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
I agree that pushing with the chest and crossed arms coming up and under the bar would be the proper way. If the capstan "kicks", there won't be a thump or broken bones. And the arms position would seem to help if it knocked them backwards. -
Welcome to MSW, Jason. Chris was right about wives and support. And yes, open a log. Even being far into the build won't hurt and is a great way to meet other builders.
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