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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Chuck, What Al said. I'd go the way the actual boat was done on the rudder. Some conventions can be over ridden but since the result of this is very visual, go with your instinct. If we followed the contemporary model makers, alot of our ships would be solid hull or hollowed out wood.
  2. That's the stuff, Ken. Came in a tube as I recall. A bit of brush on primer and a light sanding would sometimes but not always stop the absorption.
  3. Interesting research, Steven. I'd go with it. I'm wondering now if our eyes expect the mast at midships to be the tallest. Is there any indication of how much taller the foremast should be? I find it a pity that much of what ship builders did even 200 years ago wasn't documented somewhere to explain the "why" part.
  4. Amalio, I think the translation worked very well. A beautiful philosophy to have.
  5. There's a set of CD's of the Hahn builds. Four of them. I think it came from The Lumberyard but there's no markings on the CD's other than the ships on each CD.
  6. Al, I wonder if the NRG has an article by Hahn on the Halifax? That's where I found a good article on Licorne. Ah.. hang on.. I have something. Will something like this help? It's the Halifax.
  7. Back in the 60's/70's they used to make a filler for the model cars... wasn't a bad odor and very sandable. I guess they don't make that anymore?
  8. Steven, To my eye, there's distortion and point of view issues with the artwork sources. Try switching the masts... tall one in the middle and shorter one at the bow. They possibly could both be the same length so there wouldn't be a mix up at sea.
  9. You messed up only one bulkhead? You, sir, are a master. I mess up more than that just by looking at it.
  10. I'm in.. but hold the popcorn. I'm a bit bloated. So I think I'll switch over ice cream for a bit.
  11. Jacak, Have a look here: https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/643-triton-cross-section-timber-list/
  12. Thanks for following along. It's an adventure to say the least with some wrong turns along the way. I'm in the process of cleaning up the carvings that I laser cut. They just look too flat so I'm etching out char and attempting to make them as bas relief. Should be interesting to say the least and look better. Along with that, wrestling with the boat issues things look promising. I won't clutter up the log with any more false starts. When I get one I'm happy with, I'll post the build photos. Oh dear.... "Lord".. i"m just mere shipyard lad. I was surprised also at the result once I sorted it out. The real test is just starting... to get rid of the black and make it look like a carving. Indeed. Not just laser cutters, but CNC milling, and 3D printing. There's some stuff in the works for 3D "hobby" printing that boogles the mind such as metal that looks like it was done on a milling machine. Even the plastic ones are getting there. Welcome aboard, Dowmer.
  13. Steven, I like your approach. You're thinking like someone of that era for solving the problem. Curving the wood as it grows seems logical as I don't think we know if they knew about steaming it and bending it. Fascinating watching the thoughts and research as this comes together.
  14. Thanks for the "likes" and the comments. Had to do a "back 10 and punt" on this boat. Still getting some oil canning and I'm not happy. Re-thinking things. I'll either add more ribs or go off in a different direction. It didn't look bad, just didn't look right to my eye. So, while thinking, I started looking over other bits and pieces and realized the DeathStar cuts just didn't look right also. <sigh>. Dove into the problem... Needed to re-calibrate things bigtime. When I replaced parts some time ago after the pump failure took out the tube and power supply, I replaced them with "upgraded" parts. Naturally, being Chinese, instructions were sparse so did some digging. Power supply needed some adjustment and then my cut sheets (speed and power) needed to be rerun. Also alignment was off due to moving the beast when working on it and cleaning the room. I'm going to have to redo all my cut specs for each species and wood thickness. Not hard work, just time consuming. The several hours work, theresults are below. The upper is "before" and the lower is "after". Big difference to these tired old eyes. BTW, those are are 3" (about 75mm) wide. I'm headed back to the ship's boats this week after more household duties have been performed. I like the look of the Master Korbel boats and what's available so I ordered the largest one in 1/72. Part of the learning curve.
  15. Go back to edit. At the bottom of the screen were all the photos thumbnails are, hover your mouse over the lower left hand side of the thumbnail you see "remove this attachment". Click it. I hope this helps.
  16. Welcome to MSW, Zack. I hope you can find more info than what you need as MSW is a huge resource of information.
  17. Nice work indeed, Al. For the inside, a small sanding disk turning very slowly on a "L" head in a Dremal works well. Just go slow on it and check frequently with a batton as woud on the exterior. A bit tedious but for me, not overthinking the process (as I tend to do sometimes) was a key.
  18. Beautiful work, Mike of something we haven't seen much (well..there is Jack's build) around here.
  19. Hello Ivan, Welcome to MSW. Wonderful work on the armor and the weathering looks fantastic.
  20. Absorptive material inside the box will be the key to sound deadening. One thing you might do is go here: https://sawmillcreek.org/forum.php. I use the laser forums a lot for info. The users are very helpful. You may have become a "user" and register. But a search on "dust extractor" should give you lots of hits.
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