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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. mtaylor
    For the wooden bits... PVA or carpenter's glue. You can debond it with isopropyl alcohol. For wood and metal or wood and metal joints.. either epoxy or CA. Epoxy doesn't debond but CA can be debonded with acetone. Hope this helps.
  2. mtaylor
    That scissor jack would be bad... it's reflective and would return the beam back along the path to the tube. I'm looking into a variable z-table but the ones thtat fit are all powered and my PS doesn't have an extra set of voltage ports.. As for t5956ws unit, it's probably focused at the lens so no need to move the work piece.
  3. mtaylor
    Hi Robert, Looking good. On the lighting.. run "rails" if you can down each side. One rail positive and one negative. You'll minimize the wiring lengths. For the effect you want, it might be better to move the LED to between the ports instead of over the port. That will hide the light and give a very subdued lighting effect. I ran the cabling much like what your planning but out the aft end of the baseboard. My Constellation isn't in a permanent case yet, but when it does, I'll feed the wiring down through a hole in the base of it.
  4. mtaylor
    Beautiful work, Remco and well worth the time, I'd say.
  5. mtaylor
    Bob, 10L per minute on the flow rate.
  6. mtaylor
    Tim, The thinner thread does look better and more realistic, IMO. Good fix.
  7. mtaylor
    Air assist is a small compressor like one might use for a bubbler in a large fish tank. The water pump is a fish tank pump but one that moves 10L per minute or so. You can't use a slow drip as the heat must be dissipated lest you crack the laser tube. Air bubbles in the tube are also very bad. One other add on... a thermometer for the cooling water. There's an optimal temperature range with these things usually 20C(68F) to 25C(77F). I'm using a remote fish tank thermometer. I also put two one liter bottles of ice into the tank to drop the temp and give me a longer working time before the temp rises too much. The commercial/production folks generally use a chiller but that's dollars... so there is that trade-off. Cooling water needs to be distilled and also monitored for algae growth. Smoke detectors are good... but watching the cutting is better. It doesn't take much for one of these to catch fire and get out of hand. There's lots of good information here: http://www.lightobject.com on these lasers (in the support forum) as well as upgrade and replacement parts.
  8. mtaylor
    Peter, Given that beech in the US may not be the same beech available to you, try it. Test it and see what it does. Your tale about the bonsai has a lot to do with shipmodeling. What's done early can come back and bite you later. Don't ask how I know this. I think there's a lot that is in the "depends" category... Will the frames be visible? To which you've already determined this one. How thick will the frames be (both width and depth)? Will the frames but cut as futtocks and assembled or will they be one-piece? It still boils down to "you're the captain and it's your ship, build it the way you want it". I've seen people use basswood for framing with success but there were problems. You might have to build your frames and then coat them with a mixture of glue and water to stiffen. Have some fun... we'll be around to help out and to see a nice ship being made.
  9. mtaylor
    I think I'm puling up a chair. After watching your builds on the other subs, this will be a "must see" event.
  10. mtaylor
    Definitely get the air-assist. It will help prevent flare-ups. As a laser cutter owner/user, here's some other tips.. 1) Check the lens. The Chinese have a habit of putting them in upside down. The curved part of the lens goes "up" towards the mirror, not down towards the material to be cut. 2) Keep a water spray bottle and a fire extinquisher handy. And NEVER walk away and let the unit cut or engrave un-attended. There's a lot of horror stories where the cutting material catches fire and the operator returns to find the area in flames. 3) Definitely set the focus. And also check that everything is square to the z-table. Shim/adjust as needed so that your focus doesn't vary from side to side and front to back. 4) If you haven't, align the mirrors. The beam should hit each mirror dead center. Here's a good link on these units.. and he has excellent alignment procedures: http://dck40.blogspot.com 5) Most importantly, have fun. But be safe, especially when cutting. Make sure the lid is closed.
  11. mtaylor
    Tom, That is a very well known and documented condition hereabouts. I'd go see Dr. Per in his topic for this: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/474-therapy-for-shipaholics/
  12. mtaylor
    That's not a bad price at all, Ron. I was expecting to hear something much higher.
  13. mtaylor
    To fix the title, just click "edit" on your first post and "more options" on the lower right had side.
  14. mtaylor
    I'm with Chuck. I would say have no reservations what so ever. Put a small plaque on it giving the date of launch and maybe something like "one of the original US frigates". If the organization is too stupid to realize this isn't related to the "recent unpleasantness" then they don't deserve it.
  15. mtaylor
    Hello Peter, Welcome to the darkside (also known as "scratchbuilding") I'm looking forward to seeing your build. Gaetan does have a good point about beech. I find that the grain is a bit too pronounced, it's an open grain wood, and it's also very flexible which for framing can cause problems. The beech available to might be different, though.
  16. mtaylor
    Beautiful woodwork on the decks and "family area", Pete. The contrasting woods work well together.
  17. mtaylor
    Sweet work on the rudder, Bob.
  18. mtaylor
    I like this also.. There is some great thinking outside the reality going on, Nenad.
  19. mtaylor
    Jim, You are making excellent progress in spite of the problems. The staining in place worked out very well.
  20. mtaylor
    I'm curious, Ron as may be others... what did the 3D printing cost?
  21. mtaylor
    Gordon, Try editing the topic to add some info... like Kit Name and Manufacturer. The title "instructions" won't help those looking at topics.
  22. mtaylor
    Brad, Have you had a look around the Kit Build Log area? Just go to that section and do search.. Here's the results I got: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1 It's doubtful that anyone has built both kits but looking at the build logs should give you an idea as to which you want to build. As to "best"... that's arbitrary as it's in the eye of the beholder (or in this case... the builder).
  23. mtaylor
    Milo, There's a Ranger build going on by Matt.S.S http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9830-uss-ranger-by-mattss-corel-sm55-164-medium-4th-build-2nd-build-log/ You might check with him.
  24. mtaylor
    Denis, I'll wager you have a kit with a modification for that deck. Also, I'm guessing that those bulkheads are a lot stronger than they would be in plywood.. but don't go testing that. :D Looks like an interesting kit.
  25. mtaylor
    Fascinating project, Steven. Not many of us would undertake such a project.

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