mtaylor

Pete, This might get you started: http://www.dlumberyard.com/articles.html And then there's Bill Short's book if you really want to jump in with both feet: http://carvingbook.weebly.com/ The Lumberyard link will get you started anyway. As for tools,.. Simplest is x-acto blades and/or scalpels. Power.. dremel carving bits and/or dental burs. I need a magnifier, some people don't. Oh... and a heavy dose of patience, focus, and willingness to start over. An adult beverage after a carving session helps also, I find.

Nenad, I would go with the wooden stands that you show (pic "base.jpg"). It will be stronger and forces on the ship from movement or even a gentle breeze will more spread out.

I think Nenad nailed comment of the week... I'm there with him and Jack... But I will add... I'm not worthy... :im Not Worthy:

Siggi, Given the time period, it might be that the 74's had only one ladder and then later, they changed it to two as the needs evolved. I'm thinking that one is what it probably had as they copied the French design early on.

I'll expand on what Nigel said. I have the (now discontinued) MM Micro Milling Machine. Stock it turns maximum of 2500 rpm. I snooped around the web and discovered the Sherline kit. At that time, there was a warning to monitor the bearings for temperature and also, that a "broken in machine" was best for the upgrade. I looked over my machine and figured it was doable. Just needed to keep an eye on bearing temps and remachine the gears to fit. I did check with MM to see if they had different gears and was told that ANY modification voided the warranty. My warranty period was up, so I modified it. Basically swapped the gears from motor to spindle and vice-versa. Not that simple but the deed was done. I can now crank out about +/-11,000 rpm. I run a fairly slow feed rate anyway but the higher rpm provides a better finish. Also, on some woods like cherry, I make multiple passes with a slower feed rate as they tend to splinter otherwise. Routers need the high rpms as most are being used in some production work and the people using them are used to feeding wood through their saws, etc. a lot faster than what we might. I hope this helps.

True... some things never change... :D Thanks for feedback. It does make sense to keep gasoline somewhere that if does catch fire, damage will be minimized. Maybe that's why I never liked carriers... a floating petrol station or a floating fireball waiting to happen, maybe.

I don't say much, OC, but you're doing a great job. I'm just following along and watching and trying to fathom dealing with parts that small.

Happy Birthday, Remco!

Cannons with wheels and rigging them... Truly amazing, Daniel.

Patrick, TFFM is the The Fully Framed Model by David Antscherl available from Seawatch Books. There's four volumes and an addendum on sail-making. Very worthwhile, in my opinion. As an alternate, Ed Tosti's Naiad is also very valuable. Two volume set. I don't have Ed's book, but I do have the set of TFFM and it is a detailed description of just about everything.

Cool. I like the way this is shaping up.

Tim, I'm curious.. is that really a 55 gal barrel or is it a liferaft? If it's a barrel, what would be in it? Did anyone else notice in the first picture that the officers and (I'm guessing) contractors aren't wearing life jackets? That gave me a chuckle.

Looks good, Kevin. At least you can take yours out.. here it's raining. Non-stop. And you said you didn't get "likes" or comments..

That would make a beautiful carving, Pete. Here's the piece I'm focusing on... I've re-cut it on the laser using thinner wood than before. Bas-relief will be applied next. It's some Euro Box from Crown that is now laminated to a piece of basswood so I can handle it.

I like the presentation you're doing... the thin rods supporting it. Beautiful work, Mike.

First rigging job, indeed... looking great, Erik.

Wow... thanks of the "likes" and the comments. I'm a bit overwhelmed by it all. I'm feeling pretty good now that I've started sanding and scraping. I'm about 95% happy with it as is after the initial pass and hope to 100% happy by the time I'm done. I'm using a combination of thumbplanes, scrapers, and assorted sanding devices such sandpaper glued to flexible plastic sheeting, disposable fingernail files, and fingernail foam sanding blocks. I use a beauty supply house as they're cheaper and pick up points from the Admiral by offering to pick stuff up for her while them there. Gap filling is simply wiping on some poly after sanding, let it set and sand again. The wood dust gets trapped and held by the poly in the gaps. Works surprising well and doesn't leave the spots like glue and dust. Rough sanding is almost done using 220 grit paper (or equivalent) and then I'll finish sand. I'm finish sanding from the caprails (or at least where they will be) down to the keel. I'll use wipe on poly and realize that I'll have to scrape some off when I glue on the various bits and pieces on the outside of the hull. That's what I'm thinking, Remco. I'll have to make one. I have some ideas but I'll hold off until I'm about ready to make the guns. I only want to have to take the lathe apart once during the project and it's overdue for cleanup and calibration. Nigel, it will be a lot longer than one thinks. I want to have the exterior mostly finished and the interior done without the deck furniture on the quarter or fore decks. I've studied Hahn's method and he makes sense to me to leave it on the jig as long as possible. It prevents damage and makes handing and working on it easier. Jack, it's going to be bas-relief carved. I'm happy that it came out as well as it did and it's better than my other attempts as I got less char this time around. I think I'm finally getting the hang of the laser cutter. It's also more in line with scale thickness. Not closed Sjors... far from it. But it's getting there. Back to sanding.....

Small progress? Wow.... amazing work. I would not like to think what would be big progress.

Nice work, Bob. Well.. it's a tug so I guess there's a reason for doing things that way. Ease of line handling, perhaps?

Sweet Panagiotis. You are a braver man than I. I would be afraid all that wonderful work would sink. I'll be looking forward to your next project.

Julie, As I recall, that link to the database, there's a multipart tutorial on using AutoCAD for this. I'm not sure what "level" it is for, however. By level.. newbie, mid-level that has some knowledge of AutoCAD and ship's lines, or expert.

Interesting concept on laser cutting the planks. That has to be a lot of planks.

Greg, At stand off distance... maybe 5000 miles... yep... no filling needed. :D It does need some serious sanding and filling with sawdust and poly.

There's like 3 topics on this....

Corey, Are you using PVA glue? If so, isopropyl alcohol (90% is best) will dissolve the glue joints. Brush some onto the joint, soak a paper towel and wrap the joint. Might take a couple of tries, but it will break it free.