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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. mtaylor
    I wouldn't sob at that stand. It looks great!
  2. mtaylor
    John, Thanks for the clarification. Where I saw this was in the Belle Poule monograph on a discussion of the bridal port and the port lid. The authors were referring to frigates in the translation and thus, I assumed.... as usual, always a bad thing.
  3. mtaylor
    Vince, I think it's fear. The fear that they aren't "good enough". I'm pretty much convinced that if you can build a kit, scratch some of the parts...(and don't they all have parts that need scratching?) then you can scratchbuild. The only difference is that you don't have the classically crappy instructions that come with kits.
  4. mtaylor
    Crackers, it probably can be. They're starting to make all sorts of things using 3D printing. Everything from models and parts to artificial limbs now. I think even some automotive parts. There's a 3D on the ISS for testing. The hope is to someday make replacement parts for spacecraft while in orbit.
  5. mtaylor
    Pat, Feel free to curse away...
  6. mtaylor
    That looks to be a great solution to the problem, Jack. I look forward to how you solved the other question about the frames.
  7. mtaylor
    Sweet, John. That base really sets her off well and brings the diorama together.
  8. mtaylor
    Sounds like a good plan, Henry. I got my fingers crossed for you.
  9. mtaylor
    Yep.. start a new one... at the unboxing. Leave this one here for anyone who has the same question.
  10. mtaylor
    Go to the very first post and hit "edit".. then (I think) it's "more options" or "full editor" in the lower right hand side.
  11. mtaylor
    Henry, I do hope you'll test this first using some scrap plastic for hull....
  12. mtaylor
    No need for CAD skills, Dan. I us CorelDraw as do many others. It's all 2-D work.
  13. mtaylor
    Thanks, Tony. That's good news on the finish.
  14. mtaylor
    Beautiful work on the Captain's bunk, Giampiero. I like that drawer that actually opens.
  15. mtaylor
    Oh... white for the towel... that explains a lot. Mine's green. Anyway, count me in Erik.
  16. mtaylor
    I'm speechless... just incredible detail and on such a tiny piece. Well done, Robert.
  17. mtaylor
    Wonderful iron work, Grant. I'm liking the idea of ebony for the guns...
  18. mtaylor
    Nothing negative from here, just high praise. Looks super, Maury.
  19. mtaylor
    Craig, If you can't find a set, you might take a look at Dafi's (Daniel's) set for the 1:100 Victory. Many of those parts are common parts and the scale is close enough they should work with no fuss and no muss. http://www.dafinismus.de/index_en.html
  20. mtaylor
    Dan, One of these two which have a bigger cutting area, more power, and a motorized z-table. When I bought the one I have, these were roughly $1000 more. http://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/products-page/laser-engraving/50wlasermachine http://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/products-page/laser-engraving/co2-laser-engraving-machine-60w I would have to check on the software but it's not MoshiDraw which is crap. And, for my workshop, they're both bigger than what i have now but some serious reshuffling of things would have been involved. If I were going for production, like Chuck does, then it would have to be something like a Boss or Rabbit Laser for more money.
  21. mtaylor
    Forget what I said, Henry. I read what was going on in your build log. Resistance might be the best way, but you will need a heatsink to protect that plastic hull.
  22. mtaylor
    Oh... I misinterpreted what you asked on your question about soldering... You're doing this practically flush against the hull then? Can you CA the wire and then touch it up with paint? What I suggested on that soldering topic won't work. Plus you'll have some heat transfer to the brass eyebolts. Edit: Rethink... there might be a way.. Make a jig such that the chain is held at a right angle to the hull. Clamp a metal alligator clip as a heatsink just before the eyebolt. Test on some scrap material as this is going to be risky no matter how you try it.
  23. mtaylor
    Henry, Do you have one of those flexible soldering pads.. like this one: http://www.micromark.com/soldering-pad-6-inches-x-12-inches,7529.html They're flexible and you can cut them with a pair scissors.
  24. mtaylor
    Pat, Looking good on the trucks and beads. I have a question/comment regarding the closeups. Should the beads be bigger than trucks, such that they roll against the mast and trucks don't touch? Visually, what you have looks fantastic, though.
  25. mtaylor
    That's something worthwhile to look into, Tony. Ebony stain is smelly and doesn't give an even coverage. Ebony is a royal pain. How does the wood take a finish? With ebony stain, it's somewhat hit and miss for some reason.

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