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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. mtaylor
    Sounds like a good plan, Henry. I got my fingers crossed for you.
  2. mtaylor
    Yep.. start a new one... at the unboxing. Leave this one here for anyone who has the same question.
  3. mtaylor
    Go to the very first post and hit "edit".. then (I think) it's "more options" or "full editor" in the lower right hand side.
  4. mtaylor
    Henry, I do hope you'll test this first using some scrap plastic for hull....
  5. mtaylor
    No need for CAD skills, Dan. I us CorelDraw as do many others. It's all 2-D work.
  6. mtaylor
    Thanks, Tony. That's good news on the finish.
  7. mtaylor
    Beautiful work on the Captain's bunk, Giampiero. I like that drawer that actually opens.
  8. mtaylor
    Oh... white for the towel... that explains a lot. Mine's green. Anyway, count me in Erik.
  9. mtaylor
    I'm speechless... just incredible detail and on such a tiny piece. Well done, Robert.
  10. mtaylor
    Wonderful iron work, Grant. I'm liking the idea of ebony for the guns...
  11. mtaylor
    Nothing negative from here, just high praise. Looks super, Maury.
  12. mtaylor
    Craig, If you can't find a set, you might take a look at Dafi's (Daniel's) set for the 1:100 Victory. Many of those parts are common parts and the scale is close enough they should work with no fuss and no muss. http://www.dafinismus.de/index_en.html
  13. mtaylor
    Dan, One of these two which have a bigger cutting area, more power, and a motorized z-table. When I bought the one I have, these were roughly $1000 more. http://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/products-page/laser-engraving/50wlasermachine http://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/products-page/laser-engraving/co2-laser-engraving-machine-60w I would have to check on the software but it's not MoshiDraw which is crap. And, for my workshop, they're both bigger than what i have now but some serious reshuffling of things would have been involved. If I were going for production, like Chuck does, then it would have to be something like a Boss or Rabbit Laser for more money.
  14. mtaylor
    Forget what I said, Henry. I read what was going on in your build log. Resistance might be the best way, but you will need a heatsink to protect that plastic hull.
  15. mtaylor
    Oh... I misinterpreted what you asked on your question about soldering... You're doing this practically flush against the hull then? Can you CA the wire and then touch it up with paint? What I suggested on that soldering topic won't work. Plus you'll have some heat transfer to the brass eyebolts. Edit: Rethink... there might be a way.. Make a jig such that the chain is held at a right angle to the hull. Clamp a metal alligator clip as a heatsink just before the eyebolt. Test on some scrap material as this is going to be risky no matter how you try it.
  16. mtaylor
    Henry, Do you have one of those flexible soldering pads.. like this one: http://www.micromark.com/soldering-pad-6-inches-x-12-inches,7529.html They're flexible and you can cut them with a pair scissors.
  17. mtaylor
    Pat, Looking good on the trucks and beads. I have a question/comment regarding the closeups. Should the beads be bigger than trucks, such that they roll against the mast and trucks don't touch? Visually, what you have looks fantastic, though.
  18. mtaylor
    That's something worthwhile to look into, Tony. Ebony stain is smelly and doesn't give an even coverage. Ebony is a royal pain. How does the wood take a finish? With ebony stain, it's somewhat hit and miss for some reason.
  19. mtaylor
    Beautiful work, Dan. And your humor isn't clunky either. The clocks are a nice touch and if any viewer knows here story, they will realize the significance. Thanks for posting this and letting us follow along. It's been a education.
  20. mtaylor
    As I recall, French frigates didn't have a bridle/chase port mandated until 1787. It was left unfilled until needed and then the gun from the next port back was moved to fill it. On many frigates, this was only port to have a permanent lid.
  21. mtaylor
    Sam, The mirrors can be a bit fiddly... ok.. a lot fiddly. What one does is put a piece of cash register receipt over the target mirror. Say, we need to check #1 (the one at the tube). The paper gets taped to mirror #2. The tube if fired at very low power such that it leaves a small burn mark on the paper. #1 is then adjusted to the burn mark it dead center in #2 at close range and also at maximum range. Rinse, repeat until it's perfect than goto the next mirror. Hmm... I haven't had any success with popcorn because the beam just burns a hole in the bag of Orville Redenbacher's. :D Besides, the average microwave puts out more power than this machine.
  22. mtaylor
    Have you had a look at the build logs in the kit area? There's builds such as the Emden, Bismarck, Basilone, etc. Not the same kit or the photo etch but I'd think the principles would apply.
  23. mtaylor
    A great milestone, Ulises. Congratulations.
  24. mtaylor
    Mike, Have a look at Jano's work also. And there's a fairly good tutorial on the Lumberyard page: http://www.dlumberyard.com/articles.html. As for the tiny bits... dental burs. I bought a bunch at a good price on e-bay. New are pricey but if you can bide your time, there's some really good deals there. I'm scared to death of the carving, but getting more confident as I start doing it. Worst that can happen is "feed the scrap box.".
  25. mtaylor
    I've just been gob-smacked.... wow....

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