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Old Collingwood

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Everything posted by Old Collingwood

  1. Well said Lou, its a hard kit to make look realistic and needs work to get there, but as I found out also a thoroughly enjoyable kit to work on - and good quality also. OC.
  2. Nah we need to pinch our admirals nail paints (but even that has to be done carefuly) and put back before they notice. OC.
  3. I think we should all start with the same kit - must build it blidfolded (no cheating) have a couple of days to build then compare - the worst one wins a prize (a goody bag of popcorn) OC.
  4. Dont worry - I have 800 jokes and gags I can throw at you guys.............. OC.
  5. Welcome Mark - I'm sure you will get bags of help to start you in the direction. OC.
  6. Thanks Ken, indeed without both I would be in trouble - I put my glasses down the other day and I couldn't find my laptop let alone see to use it, but with my readers and magnifiers I seen to be doing ok, but when I have both on and at the table if the admiral calls me I go - "What what - who's there"? OC.
  7. Evening all, more work again this evening - I have made a start on Two officers from the French regiments, both are assembled and awaiting painting. One of the pics shows them against a small tin of paint to show what scale I am working with. OC.
  8. I also built this for my Admiral - have a look as I did some different things with the build. OC.
  9. I think that wood (pontos simulted decks) or proper decking as we use in our wood kits can look simply superb, I have used both at different scales. Scribing especially for planes can be really useful to open up panel lines that have been lost with sanding - or just plain missing. OC.
  10. Respect and understanding to you EG for talking about that, and also warm wishes to our brothers Lou, Mark and Ken and all the others who experience things No human should have to - one thing fot sure here we have a gentle understanding place of understanding and friendship. 🤜🤝🤛 OC.
  11. Stunning work Kevin, those decks look loverly made all the more so by the tennon joints. OC.
  12. Evening all, right then Major Baring and his steed is painted just needs flat coating - but I need to wait for the weather to dry before I can sprey outdoors. OC.
  13. This photo might help - again its not mine I got it off the net, but it does show a (slightly more gentle tuck round to the back that would help with the planks) I had a similar problem when I was working on tha same kit about 10 years ago - it was a real nightmare to get right. OC.
  14. Having a re-think - if its the last frame causing the problem with it potentialy being too far back creating too sharp an angle, how about adding some more wood behind the last frame/but glued to it, this would enable you to sand a more gentle profile for the tuk, I think that would help a lot and take away such a sharp angle. OC.
  15. Does it look like this - you could use the half moon shape part to get a tighter turn, its what I used to use for some really tight turns. Pic not mine. OC.
  16. Evening all, right Major Baring has recieved some paint - just need to paint his boots and styrups. OC.
  17. Are you using a "Bending Block" with your heat Iron for bending? it should have come with your Iron, it is such a useful tool for getting tight turns with the planks. What I used to do with mine was to soak the plank you want to fix - say one on each corresponding side, then when I t feels wet enough with a bit of bend to it - pit it over the bend in the Bending Block and using the heat from the Iron push down gently in the curve of the block till the heat/steam gently pushes the plank down into the curve. The key heare is not to push too hard - Just go gentle and feel the bend , it takes a bit of getting used to but it does work - I have bent a near circle using the tighter of the bends in the Block. Give it a try. OC.
  18. I know, thats why I cheated on my Pearl build - tried but said to myself "nah too much hassle" but enjoyed the ratline -ish (tiny ish) OC.
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