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Everything posted by Old Collingwood
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Its RN anti fouling Red - its supposed to be almost like a mix between flat Red and Brick Red. OC.
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Per, the boot line in real life would have been about 8 feet wide on Battleships of that tonnage. OC.
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Evening all, Thank you all for all the likes and comments, Right straight in with some progress and a little laugh - I had finished attaching the main and front u/c units got then lined up and flattened the tyres for weight, then somehow I managed to drop the plane onto the floor 😦 I expected the worst - but the only damage was the pitot tube had come away, bit of a pain as my ca glue has gone thick and wont smooth into place, I had to use some as the pitot is metal, I managed to smear a bit around the break but it was not a smooth as I wanted - oh well best left alone. Next job today was to work on the Two outrigger legs - simple? - not quite, glued in place and even added flat spots under the wheels, but they were two high and were pushing the main u/c unit off the floor by the eqv of a bout a foot, so some fiddling sanding under the outrigger units and re try, did this for some time - till one of them came un glued and fell to the ground🤬 you know those bins - it nearly got a plastic SHAR. Any way I can away from the table for a break - then later I returned with a new wind and tried again, the leg was re glued and forced dried with the dryer, then after it was set I continued till I got all sitting on the deck.🙂 They still need painting - but I decided I would have a go at simulating HMS Hermes deck using the section of board I have thats grassed on one side, I flipped it over and have started to lay some paint layers down, It needs a dark strip down the centerline and white edging bands - these will be masked up and painted by hand. So this is the current status - and a couple of pics... OC.
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Evening all, I did abit more today concentrating on the U/C units these are built up in stages with painting and weathering in layers, I have been able to glue them in place letting them set before I work on the outrigger units - then it can be sat on its wheels. The main u/c doors were changed onboard Hermes as they had an issue with original ones (hence the colour shade difference)😉 # just noticed the front u/c small door has moved and will need re gluing.🤨 OC.
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Evening all, more progress with SHAR - I decided to wortk on the Pitot Tube and nose cone, firstly the kit one is able to be improved with the addition of a brass Masters tube, but first I had to cut off the plastic one where it is joined to the fuselage frame, then it was a case of sanding the front part flat - and with a very very very fine drill I made a small hole in the end (not very easy) I managed to do this (just) then the brass tube's end (protrution) was glued into the hole with ca, this was left on one side while I worked on the nose cone. The nose cone needed some shaping as the fuselage at the very end is not a purfect circle, so I sanded the edges where it needed flating slightly, then I maked with a pencil inside for the T.D.C alignment, then I applied a few coats of Black/Grey and after a few coats of top coat, then when dry it was lined up and glued in place, still needs some work to tidy up and a bit of paint on the tube. OC.
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Looking excellent also looks strong (you would have thought delicate at this stage) with the Three stringers I would have said they were there also to show the the line of planks like what we do with string or paper strips to show how the flow of the planks. OC.
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Im back again - next up was the rear jet pipe exhausts - these get very hot so they soon show a burned metal finish, I mixed up a mixuture off Brass and flat Black and gave then a couple of coats, next came the fuselage heat shields - thease again tended to get very hot and show a burned metal look. After these had dried I applied a few coats of top coat then they were glued in place - next was the placing of the 190gal drop tanks on thier inner pylons. Its getting there. OC.
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My procedure for my decals was to apply micro set to surface first, then position the decal and using a cotton bud smooth out the decal, then when set I applied a good few coats over the top with micro sol, with the tail decal it settled down even let the panel lines show through - but the silvering between the decals on the decal is showing the decal not pulling it down (its all down to me not applying a gloss coat before the decals) OC.
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