Beef Wellington
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Everything posted by Beef Wellington
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Thanks Nigel - although I'm pretty sure it is the Aurora. I thought the Potemkin was scrapped in the '20s. I did see a few pictures online where people have labelled it as the Potemkin though.... Anyway, onwards and upwards, try this one on for size...
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The Potemkin then...
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Must be the famous Russian cruiser 'Aurora'...
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Nice shots Ray. Isn't it also fair to say that there is no rule that cannon can't be fired unless at 90 degrees to the bulwark? I would have thought that there would have been plenty of movement possible with these to be able to cover a very wide arc in many chase situations.- 536 replies
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From my 'ramblings', mis-labeled or names ships in pictures does not seem to be that abnormal. If Eamonn can get one posted maybe I'll get a few hours head start due to time difference...
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Thanks Nils, I have not seen that site before. Shame that they do not seem to use 1:64 scale!
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Revisited the slings. Decided to go with approach illustrated in Petersson. Small piece of spare walnut wash shaped and a groove cut to accept the top of the sling. I found that initially cutting a small slot with an exacto blade, and then scraping with a piece of 1mm wire with rough edges to the end was the easiest way to get this done. The sling now sits much more naturally and doesn't go round any hard edges which makes more practical sense. Following BEs comment, also decided to place the sling through the forward opening which seems to be the reason for it being there. In the course of this exercise, I realise that I have omitted the sling on the mizzen which already has the topmast shrouds installed. I'll need to attach that in situ. Unpainted 'thingy' on formast...it must have a name Diminutive bosun inspecting the result and shouting his approval to move on...
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Tried to draw both methods with served (A) and unserved (B ). Served is a little more complex because you need the exact measurement and you need to hide the 'join' where the line is 'spliced' with the seizing to secure the deadeye. Although I haven't used the method outlined for the non-served line for deadeyes, I have used it elsewhere. In both cases the seizing needs to be done on the bowsprit because the seizing essentially tightens everything and keeps it secure. Method is the same for deadeyes and hearts. The other I used method which I outlined earlier in the log was to make the deadeyes with eyes at each end, and then lash these together. Although more accurate, its a real pain to do and I abandoned it after one as the results were not visible. Hope this is readable and makes sense.
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Hamilton - cheers! I can't compare the Snake to other kits, but aside from some rather brief instructions (looking at more recent CC offerings) which I'm sure would not be an issue for you it does make up into a great model but does scream for upgrades and modifications. BE - thanks for the wealth of information, my reference 'library' is rather limited . You're absolutely right, "awkward" is probably the best word to use, just does not seem right to have a the sling around the mast and going over a hard corner. Need to play with some options, think I'm leaning toward a rounded saddle with a groove to secure the sling as illustrated in Petersson (my other book) but will do some playing with options you outline. Also, given that the top has the open hole you describe, it does seem logical to use that appreciate the pointer.
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I know how you feel
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I purchased a serving machine from Alexey here on MSW, but I have seen people build their own. (I seem to have little enough time to build the ship that I don't want to spend time building tools!) This is my opinion only, serving the rigging components can give some very satisfying results, but it does introduce an additional time factor as everything takes longer to do. Its also a bit addictive, knowing when to stop can be hard - and once you've started to do serving, you're really committing to continue to keep everything consistent.
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Thats all come together beautifully Eamonn, lovely colours and very precisely done. The contrast between deck and the hull sides is wonderfull, good choice! Capping rails seem to be a consistent source of frustration in these kits no matter how much planning ahead is done, but you'd never know it. Well done.
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Hi Stergios, here is picture from Plan 4, the two pairs of cleats are for the main and preventer stay collars. I didn't have enough room to install both so could only install one set, but that was sufficient to separate the the collars. Hope that helps explain what I was referring to.
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Stergios, this is what I'm referring to, right behind the gammoning cleats. There should also be another pair behind this one. I had run out of room so just had to make it work with the heart collars.
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I used .75mm for both (seems to be less than that anyway) as it looked more authentic comparing to the 0.5mm line. If you plan to serve the it will also bulk it up a little. Also, there are 2 sets of cleats to add near the base of the bowsprit for the stay collars which are easier to add before installing.
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Slog, well done. I'll pass the baton to you, that last what, maybe an hour . Indeed it is the Berlin class, there are 3 in commission, Berlin, Frankfurt am Main and Bonn. And yes, these ships will be used as the proposed basis for the Canadian Joint Support ship replacement. Sorry David you got pipped at the post there.
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Wow, you guys are homing in like a heat seeking missile, very impressive!! I'll take any ship name or the name of the class, there are only a few in service.
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Dafi - those ratlines look fantastic. I've always felt that the line used for ratlines is typically too large, your photos show a real contrast in the sizes which looks very realistic.
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Thanks Slog, just before heading off to work. Hopefully this is not to fiendish or easy - hard to find a balance. Identifying markers removed....
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Thanks for kind words and likes guys. The garden/yard and kids sports seem to be taking up most non-working hours, but little progress. I have all the top and topgallant masts shaped and finished, but before rigging the various shrouds it seems to make sense to get the slings in place as these would be challenging with shrouds fixed. Followed Lever pretty closely on this, and again used a bullseye from BlueJacket. The other advantage doing this now is that the sling can be made off of the ship a slipped over the topmast cross trees once finished. I followed the plan and used 0.75mm line, but was initially thinking it would not look bulky enough. Once served it looks better and I think in keeping with something capable of supporting a main yard (?) One question I noodling over - I've definitely seen in pictures of other (larger) vessels where there is a shaped, grooved saddle that helps the lie of the sling over the hard cap edges. Lever however simply shows the slings resting on the mast cap, as I have here. Is one any more correct than the other, or is it possibly a big ship/small 'ship' thing?
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Slog, is that the Grace Galapagos?....I'm guessing with one of the Galapagos island in the background (?)
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Another option Ray is to replace with some walnut dowel for top/top-gallant - thats the approach I'm taking. I deliberately ordered plenty extra, and glad I did, as I had to be a little selective to find straight sections with close colouring.
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Yes Eamonn, the go faster stripes. I'm probably wrong with Kingplank reference because I think you're right that that is the one that goes down middle on some ships and is a bit bigger. And why are they a different colour? We're they originally built with a different wood on real ships? Sorry for piling more questions on :-)
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Looks fantastic Eamon. Where did you find info on the kingplanks - I've been searching high and low for pictures/diagrams a can't find a sausage...
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