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Beef Wellington
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Everything posted by Beef Wellington
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Are you referring to differences in the angle of the top and lower masts? They really should be parallel, and I definitely had adjustments to do to get it as accurate as possible. I used my eye to judge rather than any scientific measurement. If it looks good to you, that's really what matters as everyone sees things differently. Sorry if I misunderstood your question. -
Looking good Stergios. You're right to get the platforms parallel to the waterline, I found it best to get that correct first as the bibs required a little shaping to match as each mast has a slightly different angle. Not sure if you've made the top masts yet, but I suggest doing that before finally fitting the masts as it's easier to work off the ship with small adjustments - my opinion. I also saw there is debate as to whether to glue the masts, I did and given the slow setting time of PVA glue there is plenty of time to ensure these are vertical.
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Risking embarrassment.....I was going to guess SS Ticonderoga.
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Ray, I don't think you'll be disappointed with Alek's serving machine, on a cost per minute basis its a veritable steal I've found
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Spent so much time looking for last one I didn't think to come up with a good one. Of course I'll give it to you Andy as there are no real distinguishing marks....of course I would have awarded bonus points for a guess at the relevant one......which was Cyclops Over to you Andy.
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That was a tough one! Here's the next one up...
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Think I got it, the cruiser Nadezhda?
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Still not quite sure of exact name (or even if correct) - is it the Natalie or Natalya?
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Bulgarian?
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Nice progress Sjors. Maybe now is the time for the question - how does this kit compare to San Ildefonso?
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- caldercraft
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I agree with Mort, the gap actually makes life much easier for fitting the slings. I think the extra gap was introduced around this period specifically for that purpose.
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Looking great Eamonn, its great trick to do stuff like that on the grating to remember the alignment...until they get knocked on the floor and fall out. I've resorted to hidden arrows on the underside of these things.
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Great point Nils, I wonder if you could attach the deadeye strops into the channels with epoxy and leave out the chains. I'm sure you'll figure out something that works for you.
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Looking very nice Nils. I took the same approach as you on the chain alignment. Something I will probably do on my next built is to actually built the tops and preliminary rig the shrouds to the get the best line possible. I found that because of the different heights that the shrouds sit at because they stack and then align backward, the angle I originally set them at is slightly out in some cases. I'm sure no-one else other than me would notice though!
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Michael, this is a fascinating build and you're doing a wonderful job of her. Do you know if this kit is the same as that being offered at lumberyard.com?
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Lukas, not sure I can comment definitively, but I would think there are different answers in differents scenarios. I don't think that the 4 anchor hawse would have all been attached to the anchor all at the same time, maybe the two foremost being attached and the other anchors secured to the ship. More anchor rope could have been used if there was a need to anchor also by the stern, but that was probably a rare event. I'd suggest going with 2 ropes secured to the 2 forward most anchors.
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Jesse, that looks way better, must feel good to have that corrected. Getting the masts square seems to take quite a bit of patience, your 'repair' is not even noticeable. Well done.
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Sounds like it got left out of your kit . I'd suggest going to an office supply store and getting some thick black paper as an alternative to contacting Caldercraft - it would probably be a easier solution. I like the look of the anchor rope you decided upon, your Snake really is coming together now and looking great.
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Stergios - take a look at link below for visual (Seems some had mysteriously disappeared from my log which I just corrected). Use the black card included in the kit and cut 2mm strips. The technique I found easiest was to take one end of the strip on back of mast with CA glue, you can then continue to glue around the mast making sure to keep everything square. Tiny amount of CA glue again worked fine. Once the band has been glued around the mast, glue with a small overlap and then trim off with a sharp blade. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/509-hms-snake-by-beef-wellington-caldercraft-scale-1-64-first-wooden-ship-build/page-27#entry121805
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Ray, I was going through your log again from the start. Know its a pain, but would you be able to fix the missing pictures? Think you had a wealth of information and would hate to see it go missing. I'm sure you'd have my and many others appreciation.
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Those are looking very nice indeed Lukas, well done.
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Bingo, well done Slog! HMS Cyclops,(F31) (ex merchant ship Indrabarah) built by Laing and launched 27th October 1905. She served during world war one and served in WW2, Between the war HMS Cyclops served as a Submarine depot ship in the Mediterranean, and returned to Home Waters late in 1939. where she spent the war years until being scrapped at Newport July 1947. Over to you...
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Ray - Nice work on the stove pipe mods, huge improvement on the 'out of the box' parts. Should all look great once in place.
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Hi Bob, great work! Question on the beams, are they flat or do they have a camber? Hard to tell from the photos.
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Could be Jan
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