Beef Wellington

Bob, I would think its pretty safe to say there must have been treenailing for all the reasons you describe.  I had found the diagram below on the usual trawl for images, hope this is helpful.  The interesting part is that the treenailing is much more extensive (as would perhaps be expected) because of the additional framing beneath the edge of the deck.
 

Hi,
 
So work on Pegasus we be starting again now I have humidity back to normal control, and summer projects put back to bed.
Old counter framing was broken on last house move so it has to be remade.
First order of business was to make a jig to attach to my gantry for the correct alignment and position of new side counter timbers, made out of some poplar and sized so top corners are the correct height from the keel to toptimber level, and width to correspond for correct gap 12'3" ( 3 1/16" full size ).
New side counter timbers were shaped out of 15" thick stock as per TFFM, glued into correct position on wing transom, and pinned through with 20ga copper wire / 5 min epoxy for strength.
Distance between side counter timbers at the upper counter knuckle was checked as well, pretty confident these are in the correct place.
Now to start on the filling timbers and QB light port.
 
ben
 

Thank you Guys,
Moving on...
I used my etched micro saw blade in a scalpel handle to remove the bulkhead centres, mostly went well but a couple of frame extensions broke off above the sheer; easily fixed tho'.
For sanding down the frames I used my minicraft drill to remove the bulk of the material and continued with  sanding sticks.
The frame extensions are soft and I simply snipped them off above the sheer and then sanded smooth.
At this stage the hull feels quite fragile, and soft handling is a must.

1230
The cap rails I cut from some 1.5mm Boxwood sheet having made a card template.
These were then glued into place and the sanding process  begins.

1314

1328

1324
The sheer of the Longboat is evident in this shot.

1318
Chuck indicates that along the sheer the rail should be 3/32" or slightly wider or around 2.38mm overall. Thus far I have managed to get the rail width down to around 3.5mm, except for the flare at the bow, so I've a way to go. Similarly the frames are still a wip with more fining and finishing required.
 
The basic hull is now complete, which is a great relief, but I see a fair amount of time is still required to address the deficiencies in the finish before I move on.
Regards,
 
B.E.
 

Looking very nice BE, the run of the planks looks great.  Now you are able to compare, do you think the pinnace is just fundamentally more challenging because of its shape, or was it simply your recent experience that allowed you to complete this more satisfactorily?

Beautiful work Dafi, one thing I've always been curious about was the purpose of the yellow 'pillar' at the front of the topmast between the top and the cap.  doesn't really seem substantial enough to perform a significant purpose and I haven't seen similar examples on other ships.  Only thing I can think of is to provide a little additional support to the front of the mast when the weight of the topmast is .being hoisted - maybe similar to the use of a triple block on large ships vs a double.

Daniel,Jason,
 
That item is called the Cap Shore. It was fitted to take the strain of the weight of the forward overhang of the Cap from the shoulders of the Mast Tenon. It was tenoned into both the Cap and the Top and was usually only fitted on 1st and 2nd rate ships.
 
Dave 

Nice work Bob, the quarter badges and stern look real fine together

Very nice transom, Bob! The paint on the carvings looks very much like wood!

Beautiful work Dafi, one thing I've always been curious about was the purpose of the yellow 'pillar' at the front of the topmast between the top and the cap.  doesn't really seem substantial enough to perform a significant purpose and I haven't seen similar examples on other ships.  Only thing I can think of is to provide a little additional support to the front of the mast when the weight of the topmast is .being hoisted - maybe similar to the use of a triple block on large ships vs a double.

I've spent the last week on the stern, which is now finished. A few general thoughts first: the Hahn plans are a reconstruction from the Admiralty draughts, which only show the general shape of the transom and windows; I have generally followed the Hahn plan, but not exactly; my deviations reflect both some artistic license and limitations on my skills.
 
The transom was built up from scratch from boxwood strip and sheet, using a card template following the shape shown on the plans. the windows are laser cut from the Lumberyard, but substantially reduced in thickness. The transom was built to fit these windows. Window glazing was done using Micro Krystal Klear, which leaves a clear translucent surface. The outer surface of the transom was painted black and the inner portion left natural to suit my taste. The pilasters along the windows were made up from boxwood strip, as was the molding above the windows. 
 
The carvings at the top of the transom created the biggest problem. Bearing in mind my utter lack of any artistic ability, I needed to find a way to do the carvings. I had a laser cut carving piece from the Lumberyard, but it was much too fragile to withstand my clumsy efforts to bring it to final shape. I then made an equally feeble effort carve my own from scratch. Finally, I turned to a part from the kit: the kit contained a complete transom piece cast from a flexible resin (?); I had rejected the idea of using it for the transom, but decided to try cutting the carving portion from the part and painting it to match the hull wood. I may still tinker with the painting, but I'm reasonably satisfied with the overall effect.
 
Now, it's on to completing the outside hull.
 
Bob

Beautiful work Dafi, one thing I've always been curious about was the purpose of the yellow 'pillar' at the front of the topmast between the top and the cap.  doesn't really seem substantial enough to perform a significant purpose and I haven't seen similar examples on other ships.  Only thing I can think of is to provide a little additional support to the front of the mast when the weight of the topmast is .being hoisted - maybe similar to the use of a triple block on large ships vs a double.

Hi,continues the work of the openings

She's looking really good Christian and those overall shots are testament to your work! The reworked coils look to have much more of a scale weight to them which greatly enhances the effect. 

Thanks Dennis. Much appreciated!
 
Thanks for the likes gents. Keeps me from chucking them out and start all over again
 
Cheers

Got the perforated beams for the "flight deck" in place (need to take a picture during day time). Finished the covered 25mm AA (12x), and have all parts for the uncovered cut and bent. Remains to put them together. Easier said than done ... Unfortunately life keeps on getting in the way: Had to work last weekend again, so little progress (start to sound like Sam [src] )

 

And some end-of bank-holiday-tinkering: blocks mounted, topmast pendants set and the main cap´s round hole padded with leather - what does a modeler´s heart need more?!?
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
XXXDAn

She's looking really good Christian and those overall shots are testament to your work! The reworked coils look to have much more of a scale weight to them which greatly enhances the effect. 

Looking very nice BE, the run of the planks looks great.  Now you are able to compare, do you think the pinnace is just fundamentally more challenging because of its shape, or was it simply your recent experience that allowed you to complete this more satisfactorily?

Awesome work Jesse, everything has already been said!

Those close up shots of the stern look great Bob, nice job on the lantern brackets.

continuation
 
Glad I'm almost done with the rigging part

Looking very nice BE, the run of the planks looks great.  Now you are able to compare, do you think the pinnace is just fundamentally more challenging because of its shape, or was it simply your recent experience that allowed you to complete this more satisfactorily?

Thanks Steve and Jason.
A bit of a tricky question Jason, no doubt after a six year absence of hull planking I was ring rusty when I started my Pinnace and following on immediately with the Longboat I did find it easier, particularly in relation to having a better appreciation of the necessary plank shapes.
I think the Pinnace is a tad more difficult with its finer lines and greater length, and in retrospect I think I should have made the Longboat first, not that I think I made a particularly good planking job on the Longboat even with it being a second bite at the cherry.
I did make things somewhat harder for myself by using very fine Boxwood strip (0.6mm thick) which leaves very little room for sanding adjustments.
 
I took these two builds on as deliberate warm up to Chuck's Cheerful cutter, and I'm going to have to seriously raise my planking game before I start, but at least I have the correct Boxwood timber sizes for that build. 
 
B.E.
 

Looking very nice BE, the run of the planks looks great.  Now you are able to compare, do you think the pinnace is just fundamentally more challenging because of its shape, or was it simply your recent experience that allowed you to complete this more satisfactorily?

Univers played crazy - it concentrated lust, leisure and time in one single small space and as this happened to be my tinkering corner there was no more way to say no ...
 
I was busy for quite a while understanding the real construction of the fighting tops and researching the relating measures in between mast and topmast and so on. Found the Heller parts in acceptable tolerances so made up a plastic dummy to set things straight for a wooden replacement later on.
 
A long missing piece for the puzzle was the small wooden chock, that sets the distance on the lower end of the topmast and defines the distance from the mast head to the topmast. Difficult to spot in the plans, not easy to spot it in the descriptions as it was too easy as a solution ...

So I shortened the rubbing paunch to fit in the chock, shortened the bolsters in the front side, detailed the main cap ...

... build in the sheaves, the fid and the iron loop ...

... and also worked the top.

Nice to see the chock that sets the distance and the rake of the topmast.

The main cap got its splitlines.


Another question arose: The cleat for the jeer block lashing are shown in Portsmouth as a clamp, but most of the literature shows a shoulder piece. What is the correct setup?

Here both of them together for comparison ...

... and here the shoulder its the right place.


Then made he functional tryouts ...

... pushing the topmast through the trestletrees ...

... placed the fid ...

... and fits :-)
XXXDAn