vossiewulf

Plastic small scale: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/forum/59-aircraft-modeling-forums/ http://cs.finescale.com/f/ RC aircraft: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/index.php http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-airplanes-226/

The only caveat about these tools if you need to know how to sharpen tools pretty well, they're not easy to sharpen while keeping the bevels flat, especially the very tiny spoon gouges.

I sent adrian contact info BTW in case no one else did.

My first wife was Polish, her parents are immigrants who settled in Torrington CT, when I visited there entire sections of the town were Polish. I liked that there was a bar on the corner of about every block, right in the middle of the housing neighborhoods, so no one has to drive Arriving at their house was a caricature with like 42 pounds of hot food ready to eat with her mother saying eat! Eat more! Try this! over and over, it's amazing how many pirogi you can eat when the Polish lady who made them is staring at you Another thing I like is that although they haven't had exactly the best experiences in wars, they contribute hugely to the field of military history, completely out of scale of their population. I don't understand that but am extremely appreciative and there are many books by Polish authors and publishers around this house.

BTW the sponge eye makeup brushes worked extremely well for India ink. And in fact since they leave no brush marks at all, I'm going to try using them for non-precision hand-painting, looks to me like they will leave very flat coats in about any brushable liquid paint/dye.

No way to tell what it is with that small image. But short version is if it has some lighter creamy streaks and feels like cutting sandstone with an edge tool, it's probably real ebony. If not, it's just one of many species that can be "ebonized" or dyed black, but I've never been certain what they use. But it goes all the way through solid black everywhere so I assume real dye and soaked in said dye for a long time.

Your sarcasm detector seems to be malfunctioning, Carl.

Make sure you check out Uschi's metal powder offerings, those kits are perfect applications for them. They are actually quite easy to use and can produce metal finishes that are exceptionally realistic. This one shows off some of his leather decals and wood paints/decals. Note both of these show a Mercedes D.IIIa/au engine as used by the Albatrosen and early Fokker D.VIIs And here's a guy doing a terrible job of using them on your 80hp Le Rhone kit, rough sanded with no undercoat and it still looks pretty good. The only downside is metal finishes like this are the least forgiving in existence, and in fact if you had a need to find every single scratch on a surface down to near atomic levels, rub some metal powder on and you can see them pretty easily. It's not quite that bad of course but you get the point, best results will be to use the same undercoats he recommends on a surface that's been sanded/polished to the highest grit you can stand. Novus Plastic Polish works very well here, you sand to maybe 1200/1500 and the #2 fine scratch remover will take out all of those scratches and leave you with a glass finish and can be done by hand but felt points of various shapes for your rotary tool can help speed up things considerably. This is a glider I made painted Tamiya flat black and rubbed over with one of the powders. Tragically, being made of balsa, it moved way too much and the finish got all wrinkled a few months later. So not recommended over wood.

Just make sure you have some of the thin sanding film that can be creased really sharply, best thing I've found for hitting both sides of the eleventy thousand cooling fin seams to make them as invisible as possible. The fit should be good but if you get lots of squeezeout or empty seams... think of an old salt squinting and shaking his pipe at you while saying "give up on perfection now boy, for that way lies death. Death... and MADNESS!"

Was thinking about asking because normally I can't post "purple monkey dishwasher" with it being liked by MTaylor 10 minutes later, but I've been only seeing sporadic activity. Hope the recovery continues quickly!

...and he's OFF! ALREADYHASTHEKEELBEINGASSEMBLEDBEFORETHEFIRSTTURN!! IT'S A BLAAAAZING PACE! Everyone stay clear of the 2 meter unsafe zone!

I've been sitting looking at the capstan and trying to figure out how I'd make it, and all the paths require a lathe and milling machine and rotary table with tailstock and indexing head and possibly custom tapered mills. And at least several complex jigs, most of which would be single use, they'd be made specifically for that capstan. If you're able to do that with only simple tools I'm coming all the way to Spain just to kick you in the shin for being that good. He estado sentado mirando el cabrestante y tratando de encontrar la manera que lo lograría, y todos los caminos requieren un torno y fresadora y una mesa giratoria con el contrapunto y la cabeza indexación y posiblemente molinos cónicos personalizado. Y al menos varias plantillas complejas, la mayor parte de lo que sería de un solo uso, estarían hechas específicamente para ese cabrestante. Si usted es capaz de hacer eso con sólo herramientas simples que estoy procedentes de todo el camino a España sólo para dar una patada en la espinilla por ser tan bueno.

I got a reply from them BTW, they say they ship to Australia.

Ok after that capstan I'm back to thinking we need to check for alien DNA. That's really not easy to make and it's completely perfect.

What, this isn't Model Knife World? Who knew? I used them briefly officially for first time a little while ago, they work exactly as expected. But I've been sick since Friday, very unusual for me to be sick more than a couple days, finally broke down and am going to doctor in morning just for being sick for the first time in about 25 years. But only because I have a cough that's bad enough to potentially be bacterial. Anyway haven't gotten much done since finishing the knives.

Nice job on the presentation Danny. I'm putting you in the same file with Popeye, if you're working I'm staying out of arms reach, there's whirling arms and saws and glue and paint in there.

Thanks CDW! Hopefully people see that nothing I did should be beyond a decently-equipped shipbuilder's workshop, at least to create a basic knife - the brass balance pieces I make for my knives are in no way required, so no need for a lathe for someone to make a knife for themselves. The wood part everyone here should be able to make easily, and the finish is just thin CA glue that we all have on our benches. That was the purpose of documenting making making those, to show people that if you have a bench grinder and standard ship modeler tools and equipment, you can do it too and in most cases make something much better than you can buy for maybe $10-$20 in materials. I know I can make a pretty knife if I want to, I don't need a bunch of pics to remind me

Thanks Michael!

Welcome. It's not perfect but it works well for some images. If that doesn't work, you can try the Warp option under Transform, it's the most powerful but as with everything in computers that gets that label, that also means it's hard to control. You have four moveable control points on the corners, plus they each have two bezier control points that can be also be used to stretch the outer edges of your selection. Then you can also click anywhere within the selected area and click and drag to move the contents around and other areas with get squished or stretched to compensate. One trick with all of these (that really need a "strength" setting) to attenuate the effects is to select an area bigger than that you want to alter. So if you have a drawing you can increase the size of the canvas and then select an area bigger than the drawing itself and that will make the effects of dragging transform control points less dramatic.

Nah I think it would be the exact opposite, no real ship to match or plans to figure out, sketch out something for yourself, maybe buy a couple cheap rocket kits for parts, and build whatever comes to your mind when you think of a flying sailing ship as imagine by H.G. Wells

For anyone who has ever considered making their own knives with custom blade shapes, I just did this and the full walkthrough on how I did is in my build log starting here. I decided I wanted paired single-bevel knives for employment in the planking method I'm using; I have lots and lots of experience using knives for precision purposes. That said, if you like my planking results you can use the same method without doing the trimming via knife the way I do it, or at least not use them to trim quite as close to the mark as I do. Single-bevel knives for me immediately bring to mind Japanese marking knives. In traditional Japanese joinery these make not just a mark to cut to, their "marks" are actually the visible edge of the joint. So they are made single-bevel with the perfectly-flat back of the knife going against the ruler with the bevel facing the waste part that will be removed, and they are made in pairs so you can make the proper marks in both directions if needed. And as is usual for Japanese knives, there is only a thin strip of very high-carbon cutting edge steel that is welded to very low-carbon steel or in some cases even plain iron to provide flexibility, and as a result the cutting edge steel can be extremely hard, typically Rc63-64. And that means they can be made extremely sharp and the edge will hold for a long time. So I bought a pair of 1/2" wide marking knives from Japan Woodworker, I knew the steel quality would be very good even on a mid-price marking knife, and they were $22 each. If you follow the tutorial also, you'll see I ended up cutting them in half as I didn't need the full length for the final knives, so in effect I'm going to get two knives out of each of those $22 blades. Blanks for the handles can be easily had by buying pen blanks use by pen makers, and you can get extremely nice wood for this purpose for $5-$10. In my case I used a single $10 amboyna burl piece glued to 1/16" castello boxwood sheet pieces to provide extra strength - you'll want to do something similar if you go with burl wood for the outer handle parts as all burl wood is inherently weak with lots of short grain no matter which way you cut it. I also mitigate that weakness by soaking the handles for an hour at least in thin CA glue, which penetrates deeply and turns the whole thing into a composite material with considerable strength. This is how I will be using the knives, one for each cutting direction to ensure the cut on the work side leaves a perfectly flat and vertical surface for the next plank (after a bit of sanding to finalize) - the method I'm using is to do the taper and beveling one the plank is already glued on the ship. And this is the result so far. In any case, this is what I started with - And that was a mistake, at least on the width - I bought 1/2" knives when I really needed no more than 1/4". This led to lots of grinding I shouldn't have needed to do. And this is the final result, a pair of amboyna burl pen-handled single bevel knives that I will be using from this point forward for all planking jobs.

Thanks guys. No Popeye, unless it was sudden onset as I've had that in my face since I started using Zap a Gap in like 1988? Pat, I'm very please with blade shape and handle shape. The taper of the blade from the top view makes it nice and thin and low cutting resistance at tip, and my hand really likes the new handle design, super secure and stable.

Been really sick last couple days. But just need to resharpen these and off we go. Second knife. I wish I could find a pen with a really fine line, most of these will make a fine line on paper and nothing else.

Oh yeah the consensus at the time was the French-built engines were better so it wasn't uncommon to replace a UR.II with a Le Rhone on Dr.Is. Josef Jacobs is the only one I'm aware of that mounted a Clerget on a Dr.I. The problem wasn't just the quality of the engine build however, it was the oil, the Germans ran short of castor oil and tried all sorts of ersatz products with little success, and the engines suffered as a result. Actually if there was a severe failure by the German air industry, it was in engine development, they fell behind in 1916 and were falling farther behind at the end of the war with the allies fielding multiple fighter aircraft with 220+hp engines, with the Dolphin having a 300hp engine, while the "fast" version of Germany's top front-line fighter, the D.VII was flying with a 180hp BMW IIIa and the Albatros D.Vas were mostly still flying with the Mercedes D.III(a or au) most still developing 165hp but the aus could push it up to 185hp. Actually the Albatros D.V is a very good example, because meanwhile the Austrians had turned the earlier Albatros D.III they licensed into a MUCH better fighter than either the D.III or D.V versions the Germans flew, except for the absurd Schwarsloze MGs. Oeffag, the Austrian manufacturer, immediately realized the problem with the single spar lower wing leading to resonance and the resultant loss of the lower wing. After a bunch of German pilots were killed Albatros slapped a short strut from the wing V-strut to the lower wing leading edge which helped, but the German Albatrosen were never good divers, you could only push that lower wing so far. The Oeffag engineers instead redsigned the lower wing with two spars, redesigned the lower part of the v-struts and their mounting, and the OEF aircraft never had that resonance and could be dived much harder. The lowest hp engines the Austrians used was the 185hp Daimler-Benz, the other two Albatros series they built had the 200hp and 225hp Daimler-Benz engines. Then they realized the plane was faster without its spinner, something that wasn't too hard to verify since the one thing OEF engineers couldn't do was keep their spinners from falling off the plane in flight. So they redesigned the forward fuselage into a simple rounded shape, and got another 9mph increase. I've often wondered how the Western Front might have played out different had Albatros dumped their D.V and built the OEF D.IIIs instead. Series 253 OEF Albatros D.III with redesigned forward fuselage and 225hp Daimler Benz, probably 30mph faster than the Albatros D.Va.

There were several Camel engines, from Le Rhone and Clerget and Bentley, and they all flew a bit differently. Josef Jacobs, the German ace who flew the Dr.I longer than anyone preferred the Clerget, and provided rewards to front-line troops who let him know about downed Clerget Camels with undamaged engines. Most of the other information I have says the Bentley Br.I versions were the best, with a nominal 150hp, with Clerget having a nominal 130hp, but only the RNAS used Bentley-powered Camels. Also your Dr.I book should provide lots of detail reference pics. I need to find someone who knows the whole story, but I'm a bit confused by it; one the one hand Oberursel signed a license agreement with Gnome/Le Rhone in 1914 (who thought that was a good idea in France also?) that included the "lambda" 9 cylinder engine, Oberursel didn't begin design and development on it until 1917 and Le Rhone maybe in 1916? So I'm confused by the fact that I can't find any reference to any differences between the 9J and the UR.II, everything I can find says they're identical engines, and that makes no sense as no engine ever survived the transition from design drawings to working engines without changes. And I also can't find any information saying Oberursel copied captured 9Js, what I do have says their design engineers started building prototypes in 1917 and they went through an independent development and testing process before Idflieg certified it for production.