Jond

Post 8

 

Visit to EM in 2016

 

Now that I am looking how to build out the stern, I have revisited the photos I took on site in the summer of 2016.  Perhaps I should call that visit the beginning of this build.  I was there fully occupied with other builds and mid summer sailing season, but it should have been more obvious to me that one day I would return to this wonderful schooner.  The issue at the time was also that I was far away from considering plank on frame and I have Bluenose underway etc.

 

So here we are, it is July 2016 and the Downeast Shipmodelers Guild traveled to see the ‘Little Morrissey’ as the old skipper Bob Bartlett called her.

 

 

• 69 here we are where the mid section around the main mast has been removed and set up with staging to set most of the new frames.

 

• 70 looking forward we see the clean cut through the old schooner with her forward section waiting its turn.

 

• 71 the frames are magnificent.  The crew developed and way to control a chain saw to cut the various bevels in an efficient way.

 

• 72 here is what will guide me as I figure out how I can build the stern section.  Note the grey bolted member to receive the split frame.  That is not on the drawings but may make it easier to model. We’ll see.

 

• 73 here we see where the frame start raising up the rider keelson [ or perhaps here it is the deadwood.

 

• 74I remember being impressed at the outward sweep of the frames.

 

• 75 the ballast is four long steel sections bolted into the keel.  I wish I had reviewed this photo before I got this far.  See the significance of the bevel that ends up being the rabbit.

 

• 76 when I did a few serious renovations in my career we would penetrate a masonry wall and place steel beams through to support loads as we redid work underneath.  We called them needle beams.  Here the forward section of the hull is supported on needle beams as the keel was cut away and the new keel and ballast laid in place.

 

• 77 here is our mighty crew of modelers listening to Ross Branch. He was the shipwright foreman in those days and is now the operation manager of the yard. A great resource.

 

• 78 here is the old bow. All the temporary supports are clearly visible here.

 

• 79 the masts are laid aside.  this is important to remember if I go the diorama route.

 

• 80 here is view that shows the supports. 

 

• 81 looking aft on the starboard side we again see the extreme outward sweep of the Gloucester schooner fame.

 

• 82 finally looking aft from starboard we can visualize the scale of the effort to reframe this whole schooner.

these photos are worth many drawings, but they also add questions.  and as they say the search goes on and on. 

I posted this today as I am getting ready to figure out the stern.  I was on board the EM yesterday and took many more photos, but they are for a much more complete view of the innards. 

 

Now back to work

jon

 

 

Post 7

 

The bow and stern part 1 …..I hope

I want to write for memory my trial and error process of figuring out the bow and stern structures and then trying to put them together. I am working on both at the same time. That is why I see 2 or three posts to get through this stage.  I may be an optimist

 

The bow

 

I believe the name for the line of my challenge is the bearding line. The plans nicely provide it, but the lines on the scanned drawings do not line up from one that shows the line to the other that shows the frame.    I marked it the best I could. 

• 54 here we see the review of the line.    I have set up a table of offsets projecting from the line drawings where each frame hits the keel or stem as the bottom of the frame rests above the table.  Presumably, that is where at the center of the frame will meet the bearding line.  I love sandpaper if it doesn’t quite make it.
• 55 the model drawing is the guide to compare against the drawings to figure out what to do. There are a few areas where the plans and sections do not agree, and this model varies a bit too.  The location of frame one is clear here but unclear on the other documents.   I am going to try to follow this one, as it makes the best sense. I must guess a bit about the lower deck framing that is missing from all but the two cross sections.
• 56  next up we have frames 1-6 to split and figure out how to align to the stem
• 57 I went through and morticed the center frame to receive the first 6 frames. I also precut a rabbit line.  It will likely get enlarged a bit after we are out of the jig and upside down. I probably should have cut the keel before starting
• 58 here we are dry fitting the first two split frames number 6 and 5
• 59 I am learning every day.  See the pencil line showing roughly what needs to be taken off the inside of frame 6  .  I should do this check before cutting.  I have already replaced two frame and fear as I go through and fair the inside there will be more frames I need to replace too.

 

 

 

The stern

I need to choose where to slice the frames in two and to attach them only to the sides of the center structure. For four  frames 36, 37,38 and 39 I slit the center structure and fit in the frame. This choice may have deviated from reality, but it may improve strength for a model where the result does not show.  I prefer to do it right but let us see where we go with this. 

• 60 here again is a cropped model of the stern framing.   I will get to that part after I compete the frames that go to the keel. The one frame #42 in this assembly comes later too.

 

• 61 here we are at the end of the basic frames.  Now each one needs to be set based off the framing and beard line offset sheet.
• 62 to continue I thought it important to start stretching simulated interior planks to see that I am going to be able to fair this out and still have 6-inch frames.  Here where the pencil is showing frame 32 won’t work.  I made frame 31 and 32 off the same template that represented the station that split these frames.  It did not work, so off we go for a replacement frame to have enough meat to fair into the companions
• 63 here frame 40 is being dry fit in a mortise.  we can also see the slots I cut for the  frames 36 to 39.   I did this to maintain strength
• 64 Here we see from above
• 65 here all the frames through 41 [ one side only] are dry fit. 
• 66 here we see from above
• 67 two frames need to be replaced.  41 broke one side and one side of 3 is clearly too small to fair.
• 68 here  we find a possible frame 38 that may need to be rebuilt to better also fairing into its companions, I will extend some planks out and in to see if it can be adjusted and not replaced.

All for now

 

Post 6

This frame building really is harder than I thought to get it right

 

One of the fun parts of these builds is to accomplish a new skill then move along more quickly and find it is not that easy, here comes another oops.    I figure that trial and error is a painful trip at times but what the heck, nothing ventured nothing gained

I got invaded with family this week and they wanted to see what was new in the new shop

• 46 my son wanted to see what a thickness sander is all about. Here I sent a previously milled boards through to smooth the surface.  

 

• 47 I showed off my first supply of recently milled planks as i get ready to build the interior framing and planking. I passed the test, he said that’s OK.  

 

• 48here I am dry fitting the planking and potential thicker shelf. I will get a bigger supply and then rip them down to the proper width.    

Now family have left I have looked things over and found a few more complications I need to address before moving on beyond all those frames in the middle.  

 

• 49 for the next series of frame, I need to get the keelson and full stem in place and figure out how to hold them in place.

 

• 50 while showing off, I set the next rough cut frames 32 to 36 in place and rested the keelson on top.

 

• 51 here we see a problem.  Frame 31 was made by simply making two frames using station 9.  Frame 30 and 31 straddle this line.   It didn’t work. I need to make a new 31 with enough inside meat to allow sanding inward to make the curve more fair

What comes next up forward. I have been playing around thinking about how to go forward. 

• 52 Here we see the assemblies loose fitted keel and stem.  frame 7 is in place just behind the stem.  Frame 6 set on top of the keelson needs to be cut to come into he keelson and stem.  Slotting of the assembly is going to be needed.

 

• 53 looking down at frame 6 we see the challenge is coming.  I need to make 5 more frames. On a bulkhead build, I just need a block to carve out.  oh well we shall see how I do

 

Cheers

Post 6

 

LESSON LEARNED. Frames may need more that three points of contact

 

I do this short post as I am about to be invaded by family and other activities will abound.  I gained even more respect for those builder who already know how to make frames and end up with a fair hull.   It was just a few days ago when I thought I was moving along with the bottom of the frame on the keel and the tops at the deck.   Oops.  One also needs to check about halfway up to see how we are doing as to fairing.

 

 

41 here we see with the shadows, the identified frame, recently installed, is low on the sides.  If I just went at it sanding, I would end up with a very thin frame.

 

42 I cut loose the top glued joints and then was able to apply just a little upward pressure to hold the frame flush with the plank and reclamp the frame to the reglued top joint. 

 

43 this Lesson that an additional process of also checking in the middle of the frame is now SOP moving forward.  A few extra clamps and we are off to the races.

 

44   now that we have shrinking frames looking forward there is a hint that this could be a schooner. I plan to get ail the straight frames in and set the keelson before moving all the way forward.

 

We all get diverted in other projects.  I share my recent diversion as it is indeed a type of a model boat

 

45 here is a new house sign I made this week. The half model is a rough version of our real boat.  The house number will go on the sail and the names on the sides.  I was informed that my choice of fonts for the names has been rejected, so it will be a bit before we can hang the sign up. Maybe I should drill holes in the portlights and add LED lights.

 

All for now

Post 5

 

First frames are in!

 

My first goal is to complete the frames from station number 7 to 41.  That completes what one might call the normal ones.   After that potential small victory,  I need to get more creative in my understanding of how to draw, make and attach them.  As to what I am doing now, using the park service drawings is to set up the irregularity of the spacing. So far all is fine.   Moving aft of station 7, however things change.

 

32 I quickly realized that simply using a grid to lay out tick marks works fine on the center section, but as the curves get tighter and even reverse a bit we need a different approach.  My trial and error approach became apparent here.  The tracing line of the station is a polyline. That means many straight lines that allow offsetting needed for the other frame lines.   To get the 3 or 4 frames in between two polylines to follow the curves I needed to forget about the vertical and horizontal grid and draw lines connecting the points of the two adjacent stations.  Then do the measurement and offsetting for the spacing. I realize this is not orthodox.

33 

stations 8 through 11 are interesting because frames straddle these station lines.  Thus station 8 drawing makes up two frames since the difference is something I could never measure[ say max of .020]. I called one plus and the other minus, but that just to refers to anticipated sanding.   That conclusion meant the number for frames between stations drops to three so the calculation of the tick mark offset’s changes.   Using simple math of the 2.5 inch spacing I can figure the offsets to use rounded %.  I did this going back and forth between excel on one screen and turbocad on the other screen.

 

34   going between station 8 and 9 I never used the horizontal grid for the offsets.  

 

I add this lesson into my trial and error learning approach because I was taught that all frames that are lofted are given offsets that are based on a simple grid.   Since I am not using French curves to draw the lines in a simple 2D Turbo cad I needed to go away from that principal. I tried to use the spline function for the lines and that may be the answer. The problem I had there was one can does not draw offset lines of splines [ at least I don’t know how]

 

Enough of that talk back to wood

 

35 here we have the planned production line.  The four steps as mentioned before.  If I did not have all those things that come with life, I could probably do four of these a day.  Alas life moves on and I try to stay at one a day on average.  

 

36 here we built up to twelve frames, so I thought I should glue some in.

 

37 here we see, I believe, good enough lines to square up the frames

 

38 Oh well, wouldn’t you know it?  The second one to go in did not have pins, so we delay again to go over the fab table and put pins in place.

 

39   finally I glued in the first four frame in place.

 

40   here we see the temporary plank above the deck held by backer blocks. I needed a few shims to hold the frame as straight as I could.  

I think it’s time for wee dram

 

Jon

Post 4

 

Early frame production

 

First up we need to complete preparing the keel to receive the frames. As I posted earlier, I made this assembly up using maple, then chose to use the park service drawings for all layout. Hopefully, the section frame placement will agree with the deck plan view with all the frames.  I highlight the stations as that is my control and tool for if, or when, a compromise is needed.  

 

22 here the parts are laid out on the section drawing for marking.

 

Now back to Turbo cad to draw each frame.  

 

23 the first ones I chose are in the mid-section and they are the straightest.  Between stations 6 to 7 there are four frames, so I measured each offset and then set tick marks at 20% of the distance. They are all on layer for station 6, so they do not show on the printouts for each mid frame. This view is the first completed  frame 18 using the ticks between sta 6 and sat 7

24 here is the first frame drawn and the layer for the control station is turned off.  the red line is outside of the planks and the blue lines the theoretical 6 inch frame at the center point.  I cut outside the pland and a little insid so as the beveling takes place I have enough wood to shave off.  so far so good only one frame the sander got a way from me.  I am sure there will be more. 

25 with this method, I can draw two frames in about a half hour.  Then on the assembly bench I can make up the pattern for two frames at a time. That is do a little, go away and let glue dry then do more go away for glue to dry.  

26 I tried using my spindle sander for the insides. It is aggressive, so after two tries I retired it. A cordless Dremel does the inside just fine. It is important as there is a slight bevel to the insides, so the surface of the frame is parallel to the planking. 

27 here is my old trusty friend. It too is overly aggressive. I just use 220 grit paper on it and the poplar seems to be OK.  I tilt the table for the angle of the planking and so far, that outer bevel is not hard to match.

 

28   A lesson learned. For some reason I had a little contact cement left over from a copper tape job and foolishly used it to glue the paper to the wood.  Several minutes of acetone and rubbing and even some sanding to get rid of it.  I now use wax rub on glue like the kids do it.  It comes loose sometimes but is much better.

 

29 here I am drilling and using copper wire for the trunnels. There are 14 or 18 on each of 44 frames and most will not be seen, so I am not going to learn how to do bamboo on this build for the frames anyway. I will replenish some blackening stuff and cue tip them before I am done. i also need to decide what to finish if any goes on the frames. The poplar is pretty plain and a little warm tongue oil might be good.

 

30 I plan to get a whole bunch ready for the mid-section and then stop and get them in. the frames are sticking up above the deck, to be removed. On this schooner the stanchions are not extensions of half frames but separate members in between the frames.. I will add temporary planks outside in inside to support the frames until all fairing and sufficient planks and deck shelving are in place.  The ¼" thickness of the deck level jig worries me a bit, so I hope it works the way I plan it. The double deck beam shelves go exactly where the frame is located.  Maybe that is OK…we will see.

 

31 here we see about ten frames resting in place waited for their companions.

 

All for now

Jon 

Post 3

 

I have determined a program now I have to do it

 

First up was the final finagling that some of us need to go through before deciding on the program.  I have now taken more of the plans and cross referenced them and found despite a few discrepancies that things seem to lay out as I have them.  One good thing is I reopened the PDF with the dimensions and found there the long dimension was correct at 108’1 ¾ and the 105’ was what seemed written on the over blown up [ to life size] version embedded  in turbo cad. Lesson learned is perhaps I should have not blown up the drawings to life size as there must be other details that I am missing.

11 The final discrepancy came when taking the framing at deck level plan and projecting it to use for the Jig layout.   The frames there are clearly 15 inches wide and 6 inches thick on the deck framing plan. They are also drawn as if they are parallel to the framing.  The space between frame is 9 inches and the stanchions nearly fill it up.   Allan talks about molded dimension of 15 inches, but I assumed that meant the over cutting needed for the bevels in the other direction, so one ends up with 6 inches thickness on the continuing curve.  The width would end up 12 inches measured fore and aft and a little more  parallel to the planking due to fairing.

 

 

 

12 here is my final test before deciding which of two routes.  I used Turbocad to accurately lay out the stations and then set that over the downloaded deck framing plan.   Not surprisingly it has some oddities that I would agree with Allan are stretching and other aspects of digitizing old drawings as opposed to the models they created that are most likely perfect. At the bottom of the drawing are the green and read frame located off the vertical frame elevation drawing I talked about in an earlier post.

 

So, in the end I have determined to use the downloaded framing location plan.  My skill level is not up any of these conclusions to make much difference. My decision, however allows skipping a step of recreating the frame plan.   My getting into this issue is not because I think my model will be or even look different, it is just my joy of learning.  I plan to use the frame layout in the Park Service drawings and giggle the offsets a little as I make up the intermediate frame drawings. That means most frames and gaps are indeed ¼”.  Several, especially forward, will be 3/16” gaps to make the math work.    Following the lead of the Allan, I will then overcut every frame and buy more sandpaper to make things right. If I end up with kindling that is fine too.

 

So first up let us build the jig and set up production.

 

I have read in recent logs that 1/8^th Masonite is too flimsy.  Right next to it at Home Depot is ¼” MDF so I decided to give it a go.

13 here I have taken the deck level framing plan and adhered it to the MDF on two pieces, so the step up can be facilitated

 

14 Here I have adjusted one sheet under the other for the step at frame 24.

 

15 I little cut out on the band saw with some help on the points by chisel or scroll saw on the transom and we are ready to go.  I assume I will need to notch for the bow stem but leave that for now.  I plan to use ¼ or 3/16” shims between the frames to keep them properly spaced, so I have lines but no notches at the top of the jig.    If I can install interior deck beam shelves [ the new design I will share in another post], that should make everything strong enough to lift out and then do some serious fairing

 

 

16 I am bragging that this new project got me a new thickness sander.   So first a little learning curve and then we can make our own lumber.  The first plank was touch and go but I learned to shorten up the wood and all went well. I need an arrow to remember which way the screw nob tightens for consecutive passes.

 

17 The first frame is #8.  As I said I am making a frame drawing at each station. Whether it goes at, just fore or aft of, or even one-half space away, it really is close.

 

18 Here we are glued up and ready to cut out  

 

19 the second one always goes easier

 

 

20 here we are with most things ready.  There seem to be several tasks. i prefer to move around and do some of each task each day, I can work on this project for as little as 15 minutes or all morning. Some people work one task until it is all done then do all the next task.  I like to do a little of each task and move on.

 

 

21 from the other end we see the work table coming along

On the table we have

a.       2 strips of ripped poplar roughly 5/32 by ¾ by 8 feet

b.       3 short strips from former ripped stock finished in the thickness sander for 1/8 thickness

c.       The jig all screwed together with posts set to have the top of the drawing of the deck section correctly set above the keel

d.       Two rough cut frames set in close to where they go

e.       Two more frames ready to cut out

f.        The Keelson and stem components ready to go in after the center frames are in place.

g.       The computer in the next room waiting for me to draw the next frames to manufacture

h.       The keel waiting to be properly aligned and secured.  

 

I think I have some more planning like how to attach forward frame 1-7 to the keelson and stem.  Do I rout out a slot or glue and pin? then how to make trunnions for the frames to strengthen them and for looks on those that will be visible. 

 

All for now we have got to make more sawdust 

Thank you Allan for you sensible words.  The key word in this guidance is thousandths.    I will still do some gyrations as I draft up the plan to set on the base board under the keel to identify where each frame is to go.  I plan to continue to use the stations as my basis.  When I lay out the points to connect for the additional frames, the method really does not change even if the separation does.    I believe a combination of 1/4 inch and 3/16 inch shims to slide in between the different frames will help me keep them square as i work along. it is just a matter of math to add up the frames and spaces and stay inside the grid.   I also realize that to the bevels being sanded means I need more wood when I cut to allow for such bevel.   Since this is my first ever POF build I believe that poplar is the way for me to go on wood selection.  the first go at it  could become kindling.  As to the drawing stretch etc.,  I did notice that as I scaled up the image and then measured in Turbo cad that some deviation was there.  The three foot error is in the printed numbers of dimensions, and as a rule I would go with the sum of the smaller dimensions as opposed to the longer one.  

 

cheers 

Post 2

 

Do I do frames?

 

First up is a dabble into the world of trying to understand how to recreate frame design when the information I have is reasonably complete but still leaves a bit of conjecture.  Example.  One might think the stations of the line drawings are causally related to the frames.  Well so far, I have taken the tiff drawings and entered them into Turbo Cad and scaled up to full size.  I started drawing the keel and stems etc. and cut them out of maple to at least have some wood on a table.  I then started drawing frames.  My assumptions were quite naive. I assumed one draws the station and then divides the distance between them and makes up and even number of frames.   If the library drawings did not have the frames drawings that might have worked.  If one takes the stations drawn on a cross section of the hull and lays it over the frame section drawn on the hull….. guess what.  There is no consistent relationship between the stations and the frames as drawn.  The spacing between the frames clearly is mystery. 

Anybody reading this log that has already crossed into the frontier of plank on frame knows this and is not worried.  I am sitting here thinking I need to make a matrix by drawing the station line grid onto the frame drawing and then measuring the offset to each of the 41 frames.   Then make up a table of offsets for each.  To simply divide the lines of two adjacent stations by say 4 and to make frames on that basis would work but not reflect the drawing of the actual frames. I am not smart enough to know if it matters.  there are also many more frames knight heads etc as well.

 

Also, another point for those experienced modelers to chuckle about.   When I draw a bulkhead for a 1:48 it is easy to use birch plywood or even luan of an appropriate size.   However, to cut little frames that are only 6 inches= 1/8 of an inch ...wow that is another world.  I am going to do it at some point, but wow. Perhaps if I jump to 1:24 I could more easily hold onto the pieces.   I even have Bluenose at 1:24 sitting there waiting for a friend in the same scale.    Too much to think about right now,

3

Here is a sample of the station and frame combined drawing.  I am not sure if there is a frame at each station.  As I am plodding along drawing both a frame and bulkhead for each of the 15 stations, I am hoping that is not all wrong.   I need to check it out.  My thought is to first draw layers of stations to put over the frame section in turbo cad and will get a light table to do it the old fashion way in paper to see what I have. I am sure the answer is out there, and I am hopeful it is not as complicated as I think it is right now.

 

 

First up to solve this issue is the traditional way

4

here we see the two elements for the study. The frame section and station section drawing printed out at 1:48 scale. A little magic marker to see those lines.

5

after laying the frame section over the station section I marked the stations onto the frame drawing.

6

here we work our way aft noting where each station lines up with a frame or pair for frames

 

 

7

 

 

 

 

 

 

here are the results laid out on an excel sheet noting the positioning of the frames in the aft half. If one is to follow this approach, there is only one frame that lines up with a station.  That means if we use common sense and draft from the station lines, we may retain the shape of the hull simply fine, but we are not following what this drawing says is the actual locations of the frames.    Oh My!!!!

 

 

8

here are the forward frames over stations.  note frame three is centered on station 2, the only one!

9 

here is the next step to lay out the frames and see a pattern and design what to draw. the red frames would be subtle variation on the station drawing and the green are percentage variations to be plotted....I think

 

 

10

sometimes there is help in research that lets a few of us off the hook and able to find a rationalization.   If one blows up this tiff and adds up all the dimensions one gets 108’ 1-7/8.  The long complete dimension say it is 105’ 1-7/8.   My devious mind is looking for a solution( maybe an excuse).  My next posting, I hope will get through all of this and on my way forward…we’ll see what I plan to do.  i think I see a light at the end of this tunnel but honestly have not gotten there yet.    

 

 

Cheers

Post 1

 

The beginning.  Trying to decide what to build

 

Now that it seems Ernestina Morrissey nee' Effie Morrissey will have spent over five years here in Boothbay Harbor before returning to her home in Massachusetts, I would like to consider her to have become part of our local maritime history.   It is such an opportunity to visit her especially in these final stages to see how the interior and the equipment are all being done in 2020-2021 to make her the incredible teaching schooner that she will be.  I got to see her in each of her stages as she was hauled, dismantled, and built back with incredible skill.  She was birthed on a railway next door to where Bowdoin was replanked last year.

1a  here we see from DEC 2018 the lowest view looking forward of the amazing planking on the Ernestina as rebuilt by Bristol Marine.  This view is a definite challenging view to folks like me as to what the planking is supposed to look like.   

1b here we are looking aft from the bow.  

We are also fortunate that the Wooden Boat Magazine is in mid-stream of publishing a multi part article trying to capture both her heritage and her rebuild.  These articles, especially the third one that tells of the actual reconstruction in the first stage of the rebuild, are must reading for those of us who dabble in the world of schooners. 

2 This WoodenBoat article is a must read for all schooner fans

I must also say in this first post that once again for me I may have started down a rabbit hole.  I have never done plank on frame and felt this might be the right schooner to start with.  We’ll see. I need to get done by next spring and a master modeler is already doing a plank on frame version for the yard and I want to focus more on telling a story.    As I am at this stage doing my planning and procurement of materials. I am comfortable taking the lines and drafting up molds [ bulkheads] and getting on with it.  I may decide to do that and then focus on the deck furniture and rigging to match what is included in the 2021 rebuild.  Then on the side I can work away learning how to draft frames and try to end up with the same shape.   The next few posts will both introduce the actual work that is going on, a little of the history and the thought process that sets me on my way.

 

I have done dioramas for the last two displays and may choose to do that again.  I am fascinated with the early 20^th century work in the arctic. Effie Morrissey as she was named for the first 50 odd years was a true arctic explorer.   Perhaps I do another arctic diorama to sit beside the Bowdoin , each one representing a different period. They would be the same scale.

To work in a comfortable 1:48 scale it would be fun to get her sails on too.  So much to think about before I decide. First up is where to get information.   I have totally consumed all the log created by Allanyed as he started his build of Effie Morrissey.  Allan has offered to help when I get into trouble too. Most important he led us all to the Library of Congress where one can download lots of Tiff drawings and even modeling images of fitting out for the interior either for fishing or learning purposes.  Maybe a cutaway with either fish or cabins to look at?     The set includes the basic line drawings of which we all have sufficient familiarity, but also I fear they included too much additional information.  They drew a cross section and plan at deck level showing every frame.  Guess what?   They are not all the same separations….eek

 

all for now

jond 

This build is going to be fun to watch.  Thank you for sharing.

 

jond

Allan

 

thanks for the informative response.  As I get ready for my first plank on frame schooner I am both reading everyone's logs and have put a Byrnes thickness sander on order. call it my early Santa clause visit. I also have containers of sawdust that I use in dioramas.  

 

to Schooners

 

i wanted to share a photo taken inside the Ernestina Morrissey being rebuilt here in Boothbay Harbor.  The reason is to share the info that clamps and shelves have replaced knees on this work at the highest level.   if I try to go this far on my next build, where things might show, this is the detail I plan to use.   

 

cheers 

 

jond

 

Schooners

I am in between projects at the moment but moving back into a schooner build. Bluenose is always one of my favorite subjects, though at 1:24, mine does take up a bit of room.  I too have been on Bluenose II and found it an incredible adventure.

As to your modeling, I am in awe to those who have mastered the 3D modeling and the chain of possibilities 3D printing has made.   Your understanding of the vessel must be really complete through that process.  I am envious of your little custom clamps that you figured out to hold deck shelves and clamps in place. Even better was how you chose to follow that incredible book and make the knight head like they would have been made in reality as opposed to my previous sanding a solid block.  That improves one's understanding, and to me that is a major point.  I look forward to following along too.      

 

A simple question as to the sawdust.  I did not see where you shared with us you choice of materials.  I would love to know what species of wood you ran through the planer to get you framing stock. I am trying to learn how to make my own lumber too.   I am debating between a thickness sander and a planer.    The sander may be less " violent" and allow thinner stock for planking. 

 

cheers 

Post 31

 

Almost there; Practical completion:

 

I use that expression practical completion from my long career of building projects.  When one achieves practical completion, it does not mean one is done , it means we are practically complete and the project, what ever it is, works or makes what it should make, or has all its parts in place.

Today I put on the last mizzen royal yard and the last of its lines are tied down. What is not done includes all those little coils of line are not yet made and laid over the pins making the ship look much more real.   I used a little vacuum cleaner attachment to clean it up. I need to build a stand but an using the flexible one for now. In other word it works

 

All the yards are in place with lifts and braces.  That is practical limit of scope for this my first ship, and this my first 1:98 model.    I will continue along and do those missing things but for practical purposes I have taken an old thrown away model and redone it to represent something, and to tell its story.  I need to consolidate the history and make a story board.  I have been told where she was built in town and will make a small drawing of what it might have been like.  Today it is a town parking lot and a chowder restaurant. So much silt has come in over the decades on only kayaks or brings a dinghy to the shore here.

 

I will do another posting with her sitting on a stand on a shelf.   Hopefully, those little lines will be in place.  Today I want to share a few images to describe the final efforts I made, and I took her outside for a few overall photos to show where I am in this process.

 

217 just a detail shot of how after my first small scale build, I actually learned to work this small.  There are several of these assemblies. They wrap the mast then hold the yard lifts

218 here the lifts. Also behind the yard there are the braces. they include the lanyard made from black annealed steel, which could be tarred line in these early days 1853 or wire rope in the later decades.

 

Outside photo opportunity

 

 I always love moving around and moving the model around in the sunlight to try to photo all the lines.  they are easier to see out here than in the shop photos.

219 to 223

 

 

 

 

ge

neral views.  This model is a 150 ish footer, or small size merchant ship. As I am rereading Chappelle’s history book, these did not continue long in our region as shortly in the midcentury, especially after the civil war, the bigger schooners came along in this size.

 

224 to 230 are more detailed images

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

231 is a reminder. In one of the early posts we noted that the stern of the model we were restoring was too round. In the end I am fine with it because the restoration aspect of this build is key

 

232 is a bow, and yes the pun is intended.  We are practically complete.  In the next post that could be in the fall we hope a final curtain call.  Outstanding items include:

·         All those little lines

·         Stand

·         Story board for the history of where Aphrodite was built and hopefully more about Mr Sargent who reportedly built her.

·         A few missing blocks on the yards where running rigging would eventually go need to be added as well. Running rigging for the sails and sails are not in the scope of this build.

 

 

All for now

Allan

 

please see message I sent you.  For everyone looking in at this wonderful schooner I offer reference to a new series of article about her total rebuild just published by Wooden Boat magazine   

 

jon 

 

 

post 30

 

Complete standing rigging and lower yards…..almost

 

I learned years ago that finished is a very subjective word.  I remember the 20 80 rule...we spend 20% of the time and effort to get 80% complete and then 80% of the effort to get to 100%.   Following the curve of diminishing returns, we need sometimes to say enough.

I write this post today to celebrate what I am calling a milestone. Finished standing rigging and lower yards  

 

Looking at the foretopmast ratlines in the last post, picture 204 I decided to take another step backwards.  They were awful, so I cut them all out.  I feel better about working in this small scale and it really was much easier to replace them than it was at the beginning when they were my first attempt.  

• 206 here we see the fore topmast shrouds and ratlines are gone

 

• 207 here the port side shrouds and ratlines are all back and I and tying ratlines on the starboard side . it is a little tricky with all the running lines in place.

 

• 208  one of the things I learned at this small scale is to simply get the line around a pin and add a drop of glue with a clamp to hold it tight till the glue dries .  then remove the clamp and using two tweezers tie the half hitches.

 

• 209 the main lower and top mast yard braces come back to the stern area. I like using the bumpkin as it makes sense to project those line outward.  

 

• 210 here we see all the braces snugged up and made off for the main and mizzen

 

• 211 and here we have the foremast lower and fore topmast yard braces

 

The milestone

In honor of achieving this milestone, I cleaned up my rigging desk.   I also have a new overhead LED 2x2 light that is wonderful to improve the lighting from the previous overhead LED flood light. I am also putting in a dropped ceiling that makes the whole area a lot nicer.  

• 212 here my cigar boxes are out, and the alligator arms hold the last dead eye as it gets its splice

 

• 213 shortly after this photo, the white glue dried and I lashed it into the lower dead eye completing the standing rigging.

 

• 214 here we can see the tied off yard lifts on the foremast fife rail. The braces go to the outer pin rail.   Next, I need to make up those little coils to lay over the pins

 

• 215 here we see lift lines for the main and mizzen braces on the side rails.  the pump wheels look like they need a touch of paint

 

• 216 so here we are at this stage.  There is obviously a punch list. There is always more to be done.   There are a few more ratlines, clean up, the aft skylight etc.    then I will advance to the topgallant yards and ultimately the royals

 

All for now got to go sailing

I just wanted to conclude this story with a picture in the Windjammer's Emporium museum store in Boothbay Harbor Maine . She is sitting beside last year's project of the 1924 Bowdoin diorama we built last year. come see them

 

cheers 

 

 

 

Post 7

 

Let’s start the study model….1:64

 

Before we cut down the rigging and make the big boy attempt a water venture, I thought it wise to do some research on how these schooners worked and work on a study model to accomplish that goal.   Then or maybe if things change, I can take the study model and either leave it as it is or do some more work to honor the historical research.  That means like my other builds, I do not know at this stage what will come of the effort.

 

My planned time on this project is proportional to its current progress.  That means I expect to do a few other projects at the same time. This project is one I mean to complete it just must accept I have other priorities.   I hope to have this study model well progressed by the fall and then over next winter rework the larger version.  

 

So, let us get started on the study.  As a note I will number the photos on the study starting at 201 so they sort in the files

 

201 here we have the hull. That is about all I plan to use from the kit other than their material that went to general supplies.

202 after cleaning up the hull, adding the keel and stems etc. I added a water way and stanchions.  

203 as this is a study only, I am taking a few shortcuts.  For the rail I took a 1/16” piece of scrap plywood and traced it out. I made offsets and cut it out.   Since it will be painted, I am not worried about the edge. 

204 for the deck I used up a bunch of bass wood planks.  I then started to cutout blocks to shape for deck furniture

 

 

 I have to share this goof

 

205 working away I clad the two cabins and shaped the two masts ….then

 

OH I can ‘t believe it

 

206 this view shows what happens when you don’t focus on what your doing.  Yes I have redone the aft cabin since this revelation.

 

Next up is copper bottom

 

Jon

post 29

 

figuring out the rigging plan

 

Although time is limited by summertime temptations, I am still plugging away at this project. As I have noted often, I consider it class work project and fortunately will not likely leave the shop when done.  In the last few weeks, I have focused on building the bottom and center and getting all lower mast and top mast work done.  At the same time, I need to complete the standing rigging, ratlines etc.   I won’t point out each time it happens, but I am constantly finding loose shrouds that need to be rerun and other things that make me step back.   Maybe that is normal, but I believe it is what happens when close to the edge of our skill.   I am finding it easier to work with the tiny blocks and lines.  Some basic methods have come to me by trial and error and I may even be able to get this one done

 

Last time I showed the partial solution for the Spanker.  I pick it up today and share the almost completion of that work as well as the top masts re rigging of shrouds and the introduction of the yard braces.  My plan is to get everything done before I venture up to ad the to gallant and royal yards.  Today is a partial milestone.  Many lines are still loose as for two basic reasons.  I am focusing on the port side.  To tie done a brace the other side is loose, so I need to get all these in place and then turn the ship around.  I can then start tying things done and making them snug.  I am also doing the 10-15 ratlines per day . I know I need to cut out and redo the fore top mast as it is ugly, and I now find it easier at this scale to do. 

 

So here we go with the planning of what needs to be done to get done.

 

199 I made a cut down [ low profile] sky light to go under the gaff.  If it works, I will give it some frames and then consider if I should change the other two to match

200 here I have compromised and rebuilt side only fife rails so I can tie down lines.  The rings for the spanker are purposely a mix of metal rings just be a motley grouping.

201 I have added all the lines. The gaff vangs are critical to hold all in place.  When I turn the model around, I can tie down the topping lift and peak halyards to raise the boom just off the skylight and make all the lines tight.  All the shrouds had to be rerun as they were shredded in the spanker process.   At least they are snug this time

 

 

Looking at the overall rig, we must remember pictures 182-185 earlier as I had to take off the top work rigging that was all wrong.

 

202 here we see a few lose or missing shrouds yet but the essence shows we have it right this time. It is hard to see in the photo, but I have also figured out all of the yard braces that are needed to hold the yards in position

 

203 this shows the braces for the mizzen and main   

 

204 shows the braces on the foremast. I find using the fine annealed steel wire so helpful at this scale.  In larger scale we take black line and splice twice etc. here in a matter of a minute a lanyard is made with a block in it and ready to hang.

 

205 splicing dead eyes on top shrouds can be fun.  Here I figured out a use for my old cigar boxes that keep left over parts in.

 

So onward we plug

 

jon

Keith

 

we have had a glorious two weeks and much time was spent on the water.  yesterday all fog and today so so .  I am online catching up.   The fresh air and typical family plus close friend boating make it a perfect relief in my mind.  Sorry others are still restricted, but i must say being here in Maine at the end of a ten mile peninsula where there are no cases of Covid is a blessing.

thanks as always for your encouragement.   this build is a challenge 

 

cheers 

 

 

 

There is not enough to write up a post yet,  but i just want to log that I almost made it through the spanker saga.  I tried a different low profile sky light and think I need to change all three to a lower profile.  I have no way yet to tie off about twelve lines at the base of the mizzen mast.  Maybe a new fife rail forward and sides with an open back.   

 

 

Now it is June and we are sailing in a real boat and doing other summer things.  As  I have time to peck away i still hope to get on with this first attempt of a ship. I think the general design corrections are in place for the spanner on a the extended cabin poop deck configuration.

 

198   this view is just to show the boom and gaff are made and in place and tied to all their lines.  the sheets are a bit tight and i will adjust the boom up enough to squeeze a low profile skylight underneath. 

 

cheers 

Post 6

Completed 2015 rigging exercise

 

This posting completes the look back into the work done on the RC version of this build through 2015. Following the build, I went on the Bluenose Journey and built and sailed the BHOD sloops. As I went through each stage of those builds, I came to the conclusion that it will be a challenge to fit this schooner out for RC.  We will talk about the specific issues  later, as I try to figure out what to do to get her wet.  Now back to the build

41 here we see the foot of the sails laced onto the boom and the birch plywood hoops. This is pretty normal although many RCs like to to use wire jack stays to hank the sails close to the boom.

 

42 looking down the deck we must figure how we will use a single servo to let out and pull in both the large main and the small fore sail.  Also I is apparte3nt I need to solve how to control the rudder. The rudder shaft comes up on deck near the mainsail horce on the transom

43  I added scale figure cut outs and a helm for looks.  This is my first home made wheel. I have learned a lot since then.

44 here we are preparing the foresail. Topsails and jibs are on the table too.

45 as on my other builds I frequent our local supplier Bluejacket for most of my loose fittings.   Working in this large scale I like the metal fittings.  

 

46 here the foresail is sewn onto the mast hoops

 

47 we see the value of the stronger fittings. This process is where I got into trying hemp craft line for bolt roping. It is ok at this scale but I had to redo it on the 1:24 scale bluenose as it was just too big

48 here goes the foresail

 

49 here is the attempt I made then to control the rudder.  The brass square tube penetrates the housing to an elevated servo.  Who knows, it might even work. the sail servo is set up too run lines on deck.   that is not normally done but access below decks at this stage did not allow for a simple solutions to be hidden.

 

50 up on the foredeck, I made some anchors, trail boards and the windlass / winch. 

 

51  here she is as she sat for several years in the middle of the sail loft in my old shop.  She is still over there today as part of the “staging” one needs to do for the hopeful  sale of my past home.  

 

 

Here is a summary of the long sage followed by a look forward

I bought this plan and kit in 2001.   I started the hull for the larger boat in the winter of 2005.   I restarted the build in 2007, as covered in this catch up log.   As of today, I could say I have 15 years into this project.  That is nuts and why I have taken it off the shelf so to speak.    My plans for this upcoming build are to peck away at the small 3/16-inch version with a focus on setting up the sails and rigging design before getting back tot he large version.   Next winter, though I will get into a few other projects as well, I have intent that one project is to complete the sails and rigging, so next summer we might try to sail her.

 

All for this catch up.  Next will be a some  progress on the rigging design model

Post 28

 

Second attempt to figure out that spanker

 

As usual we need to go back to the basics. We must also accept that what we have already built might just not be right.

 

First up is to ask our expert Mr. Crothers how he rigged a typical ship

• 195                                                         is just that, the running rigging for a typical ship. I have cropped enough to make a comparison with the picture 191 above
• 196 here I pasted the two photos side by side and scaled so they can be compared.  A few observations

1. The mizzen in the typical ship is further aft from the main mast.
2. The distance from the mizzen to the stern is much less on the typical ship
3. The potential luff on the typical ship is much taller, making what the eye says is a reasonable spanker sail. 
4. Aphrodite has, by  Alna’s design, a cabin and sky light, and my interpreted fife rail forcing the boom way high.

 

 

 

Something has to give. My current thought is to take off the boom [ already done] and remove or at least lower the sky lights and remove the fife rails.  At this scale it will be very difficult to put cleats on the mast for the 8 lines and actually tie them off. I will have to have some liberty there. Perhaps eight eyes with simple hitches buried under coils of line. 

 

 

• 197                                           this is my next direction.   Reconfigure the boom and lower it as much as possible. 

Just a note... the port shrouds on the mizzen got shredded and broke, so I am going even further backwards. oh and the wheel fell off too.

 

Cheers

Post 27 

 

Getting organized.  seeking a path to do the rigging and how to do a mizzen

 

One of the joys of doing this build without complete plans is the need to regularly search and discover a plausible solution.   Unfortunately, it has again happened after the first attempt. First up is look over the “mess” as I called it and figure out a sequence.  Then stick to it.  If I glue something or paint something I must not  jump to another extraneous part and work out of sequence.   That is one reason I started up the other build.   

 

As to the sequence I feel a little better about starting in the middle and working out and working from the deck up.  The little example of what had to be done to get the pumps installed was a great learning tool.  So off we go. Last time we took a hair cut and went back a few steps

 

• 186 here is a milestone.  All fore and aft standing rigging is in place and there is a clear list of items missing on the port and starboard shrouds.   I will now work from the deck up.

• 187 first up the boats are now going in and are lashed down
• 188 looking aft we have a definite problem. How are we going to tie down all those yard lifts and other lines? The extended poop deck and house remove deck area around the mizzen mast. 
• 189 looking at the rigging diagram they agree we need fife rails.  But again, we have a skylight in the way. These are not indicated on the plan.
• 190 so being creative I reduced the skylight [ love those band saws] and built up another fife rail.  I am used to trimming down some maple and using the mill to drill straight holes. My new problem is the acrylic craft paints I use are drying out and get lumpy.  Just another pain to deal with.  A most important sight in this photo is where I followed the masting instructions of our friend Mr Crowthers and came out with a lovely spanker boom with yokes and a table for the mizzen mast.  I felt I was back in schooner land where I am much more comfortable.   Looking at it though I just cannot believe it to be right
•  191 I look at the proportions and cringe.  A yoke on the gaff would be ridiculous.   Also starting above the cabin, we are a few feet shorted in the luff.  Would it really have been so long?
• 192 back to the books.  Here we have an image of a more plausible solutions.  There is no full explanation, but a small mast is set aft of the huge mizzen to take the small spanker sail
• 193 here I am with my interpretation. I have a band over mast band forming a goose neck for the spanker boom that simultaneously houses the “{?????} “small mast for the spanker.
•  194 so as this week ends, I had to make other decisions. The spanker sheet is intended to go to both port or starboard rails over the steering gear.  The bitts I added to ho;d the bumkins will allow tying off the sheet. That means I kept the boom at the length given in the table for Alna  our prototype.  Looking at the shallow slope of the topping lift and then imagining the block of the gaff peak halyards this will be a strange looking sail.

 

 

I need to do more study on this part of the build.   perhaps I shorten the spanker boom and have the sheets on the end of the cabin roof.

 

All for now

Keith

 

thanks for you fortitude to continue to drop in.    I must say that just because i have become more comfortable in the world of Schooners, that a ship build is the place to go.   it is amazing how much more there is to learn about how all parts of a ship work and what they are called etc.  The sequence too wow ..... this rebuild started as a throw away.   A pigs ear was an over statement.   if I get it back to a pigs ear that will still be a worthy journey for me

 

cheers