Jond

Post 29

A little progress on deck

I am nearing the end and now find I need to go back a few steps.  The kit provided cap rail was nice and it saved lots of time.  Unfortunately, it is set up to ride only on the stanchions that under perfect study were likely tapered a bit like all other schooners.  Considering the added full bulwark, and the need for pins inboard and chain plates out board, I decided to widen the cap rail.  This means I will need to paint it out to. Looking over the model photos of the early schooner, i feel this is the right decision. So, as I worked on this process, I did what I could to bring along the other elements to their final detail.

• 240 here I am partially covering the rudder with copper.
• 241 here I am adding the thinner 1/32" section to the outside of the cap rail near the bow.
• 242 here is the whole thing getting another 1/16-inch strip. 
• 243 Here I need to fill and sand the joint that I know otherwise would open on me.

Now we need to think about the show. What to rig and what to have being worked on.  Much has been planned, but there are a few more things to decide for what to show as this schooner nears completion.

• 244 I have gone and added the rigging to the bowsprit. The head stay is made up with a large splice, coiled and lashed. The photo is my first attempt of blurring the unwanted surroundings just for fun.
•  
• 245 In this photo, we see several items.  The chain plates are sticking up through the wider cap rail.  The cat head is made up from maple.  As in the Essex photo a monkey paw holds the line that drops down and returns over the sheave in the slot. I tied a big granny knot and added a drop of glue, sorry.  This picture gave me an idea for what to show our kneeling workman doing.     The windlass is all in and the head stay is lashed to the jib down-haul cleat on the freshly painted bow sprit.
•  
• 246 looking forward we see the main horse set up, black tape as place holders for hardware on the binnacle and tie down rings I need to lash.  I also completed all the little nails, using a hard pencil in the shellac finish. I felt it important at this large scale to show the nails and joints of the deck planking
•  
• 247 here we see the foresail horse, the mast holes are up to size, the tie down rings for the hatch tarps, temporary hinges and main chain plates are now all in place.
•  
• 248  I have taken the dirty sawdust and broadcast on spray adhesive over all the land area.  I then glued down many, but need more, shavings as the fore mast is being made on the left.  A new ladder is also on site as the scaffold is gone

Next time we make decisions on what is the final show and what is the remaining work. 

All for now

Post 28

Complete deck work...basic furniture

First off, I took the Essex plans and model photo and studied the bow area.  I’ve much to do here

• 228 in this section we pick up the size and positioning of the Sampson post and windlass.  Note the wooden chimney that was removable.  I will need to make the covered hatch for that and maybe the large water barrel that goes on the other side.
• 229 in this elevation, we see a confusing depiction of the knight head above the rail. How long is that curve?  Also, a good detail on the cat head.
• 230 in the plan view we again get the relationships of things.
• 231 in this blown up and cropped photo of the Cape Anne museum model Essex, we find an expert’s rendition of what all this bow area should look like.  Note the forward companionway is a simple hatch with, I assume, a ships ladder. Note the knight heads are effectively bow bitts.  My rendition has the curved top and sliding hatch that others showed and wrong knight heads. also the size of the hatch planks and their bright rings 

Now let’s go to my build and fix what we can to make a 1937 slim hull look like a fatter and rounded 1821 bow.

• 232 First, we see the lashing lines that I put on for the bowsprit are much too big.  Second, we see I followed my first hunch and raised the hawse timbers to meet the knight head in a long curve. Then I had a brain cramp and did not think to bring the rail over the bowsprit
• 233 inserting the bow sprit, I now have shaped the internal octagon section…..much better. I need a big wooden cleat on top for the jib down haul.
• 234 here is the second card template…[ the shop dog ate the first one] I transferred this to 1/16 plywood to cut and trim and fit.  It will be painted, so the plywood short cut should be ok
• 235 now for the hatch rings.  I removed all the planks and milled new ones.  I need two tries to get even numbers of 6 and 8 planks, and they are roughly 13 inches in scale.   The Cape Anne model left them bright.  I assume they were iron rings in those days.  I made them up and put them on a scrap piece for blackening.   I must admit that after looking for 30 minutes I simply can not find my blackening jars…lost in the move.  So, I cheated here and used lamp black paint.   Not great but only experts will know. I need to find that stuff !
• 236 building the windlass was fun.  It is basically carved out of maple, my hard wood of choice.   Here one sees the crew painting the green, so I need a tiny paint bucket and brush.
• 237 here are the pumps. I copied the model photo as best as I could and again used maple filed to an octagon.  The handles are from scrap pear, so they are strong. The binnacle is also pegged down and the two horses are in. the aft horse is interesting and will show up better in other photos.
• 238 here is the basic furniture on the main deck.  I plan to have the tiller and other small spars on deck as they are completed and ready for future installation.

So, what does this look like?

• 239 here we are resting on the slipway.  For now, I have removed the large primitive scaffold as it was just that, too large.  I need a ladder or something to get the guys on board.  I also have chosen a smaller spar to be under way and set the rudder down.  It will get some copper too.  The bowsprit is in and I will do some rigging for next time along with the cat heads.  Maybe install some or all the chain plates and have coiled lines ready. 

 Cheers

Thank you Richard and David.

I am off to our monthly guild meeting to get more advice on things like .how much should i do with the spars  and how do i put a paint brush and bucket in the hands of a figure

...my next posting shows all the deck work almost complete and I am ready for preliminary rigging work.

cheers 

Thank you Yves

I am getting into a tricky area now of making the detail parts.  The clock is still ticking too, as I need to be able to display this diorama in late May, and that is really just around the corner.  Any time I drop a piece on the floor, the shop dog checks it out.  Today the windlass supports bit the dust.   I then added the bracing for the raised stern and found the rudder no longer fits.  It is talking two tries for most steps forward, but that approach is normal for me.

cheers 

Post 27

Mid-point on the diorama

It’s time to look at what we have now and see want we want to develop and what might be better removed. I start off with what now is my favorite view. Naturally it is not one of the four views I use for study, but a low angle from a corner

219 looking in from an angle, we see seaweed coming along and all the colors of the schooner. the rudder is missing and i assume would not have been installed.  I plan to have it sitting ready to go in.  I would have coopered before installing gudgeons over some tar separating the copper.  I never thought about it before.  Since i am using tape I would hardly notice.  but since only one falls into the copper as completed , I need to decide.  more to come on that one.

220 here we back away and see the new supply of seaweed.  I plan to experiment with a brownish wash and dab with a sponge.  I want some yellow to survive as that is the fresh air-filled pods that float in the sun.   the browner Spanish moss did not work, and I will use some of it to make up bushes.  I wonder how to make eel grass? Also, at the moment one end of the main mast in the rough is looking at you. there is so little room i am not sure yet what to do to stage the work going on right there.

Now the four side views with presumed directions/

221 north: the wagon is delivering things that would not be floated.  Who is it to say that everything may have come by boat and there was a dock nearby?  Now I believe they were on a remote site on Westport Island with the slipway falling south west.  I plan to go see Barbara , our town historian to see if she can help me more in this area. I believe they were about 5 miles out of town.

222 west: here is the best view of the swooping lines exaggerated with the raised stern. I have lots of bark and saw dust and stuff to make the brown area more like a work shop. 

223 south:   the water side view.  Here I must think more of the scaffold.  What is it doing and why is it there? I also need to treat the slipway that gets wet twice a day.  all such structures today have treated wood, these would have been simple logs.   they would we wet covered in seaweed and maybe barnacles. 

224 east: to confirm this means east side looking west. the spars are the point here.   what to do? I think I want some spars done and even with fittings. They must have been working in parallel.  The question might be if they were built somewhere else.  For now, I assume they did it all here.   Also what to do at the front of the slipway?  These large frames would have had an A frame or gin pole to swing the keel,  frames and any other large timbers.  It would likely have come down once the need was over.  I plan to start building one but stop as if the large components had been removed.

Now for the story. What are we going to talk about, and what are the workmen doing?  

225 on deck they would be further along than we are now. I am making the windless, pumps large horse and other parts and will have most of them at least set in place.  I am now not happy with the size of the hatch planks and will remove and replace them with larger planks each with its own ring to lift out.    More to come on the deck

226 here we have someone painting the bottom. This approach leaves enough planking visible for the audience to see. I left some on both sides and the top rail for now

227  the adding of copper I think is fun to see. I have doubled up copper tape with its backing to have a ready supply of plates and will have then around the site and a pile near the work.  I am not sure how they cut it back then, I assume with a chisel.  

Next week more on deck, and yes these pictures, as always, help us see imperfection in the painting that need to be addressed.

Post 26

Complete the bulwarks, paint and copper the bottom

It is time to complete the bulwarks and exterior finishes.  I have always planned to have some copper going on the bottom as part of the diorama.  So lets get ready.

212 I took the kit provided cap rail to see if it fit.  Well almost.  You can see where I cut and then added in a new piece to fix the higher bow and wrap the hawse timbers.  I need to come back and drill that hole too

213 here the cap rail is all on.  I plan to leave this unfinished, as if it was just installed.

It is time to make the pumps.  I had two options in mind.  One is to make a small octagon plug and clad it with eight beveled sides.    The right way.  Or a short cut.   I took a 5/16" square  p[piece and made an octagon to the outside limits.  I rough drilled it out and will now file it to shape.  There is one at each end.  We’ll hope this works and yes, it is a short cut.

214 here we are part way through the filing to shape.  I will have a smaller dowel extend below through the pad and deck, so it is solidly attached.  I need to find a few more examples to see how to build the handle and plunger. 

Now for the bottom.  I need to paint under the copper so that wherever it ends,  the black paint is already there.   I also chose the dark green.  I went to the art supplies to get the paint.   I am a

paint brush person.   

215  I have stayed so far with the lamp black flat paint.  I read in the clipper ship books that in the 1850 they added a shine.  That might mean that that before then there was less shine.  I would love to learn more about what paint colors were on New England schooners.  Most documents paint centers on Navy craft.

216 here is the copper tape jig altered for ½ inch tape.  Unfortunately, I only have a ¼ “ponce wheel. Anyone is welcome to complain if they chose.

217 here is enough for one side.  I plan to have one of the crew painting in the diorama.  My thought is to assume they would have wrapped the keel first all the way down and around.  

218 I just got some new yellowish lichen that looks a lot more like seaweed.....cool!

Next time I plan to set up the diorama to see what the story is to be and then focus on that work alternating with completing work on deck.   I also have to figure out what to have for spars. 

Cheers

Richard

I just enjoyed reading your blog all the way through. I appreciate all the little things I learned along the way.   It is wonderful when folks with your skill show us trick.......your set up for soldering such little pieces. It is so much about how does one hold things in place.    After building my Bluenose at 1:24 ,where one can actually hold onto things, it is a marvel that you keep andeven expand on the detail at this small scale

congrats on a great build and thank you for sharing.

jon  

Post 25

Diorama let’s get going

There are times in life when more study is good. There are also times like now when one needs to just go for it.  

205 first up we need to mill up a collection of rough-cut timber to make scaffold, ladder and maybe a gin poll.

206 let’s set the base, the slipway ties and rails.   You can see toothpicks painted black to represent iron rods hammered down into the sand/gravel and marine clay mixture between ledge rock where this would have to have been sited. There is also glue and toothpicks driven rough the rails into the ties. The rail is going down into the water at the edge, so unless I change my mind and use more milled timbers I can go ahead with those cross timbers.   The gray and tan paint was an experiment.  The brown is the paste earth. 

207   I needed more material, so we have added:

·         Rough milled lumber

·         Hemp rope in different sizes.  I normally use this for bolt rope in old canvas sails but think hemp would have been the line of the time.  It does not coil well, but I can use it for lashing and things.

·         The ½ in copper tape to try some bottom work. 

·         Tan color lichen / moss to try to make seaweed

208 so here is the first attempt.  I have used two steps in the ageing for the wagon and used most of the brown paste dirt over the plaster.  The wagon is made from plywood so there is no grain to play with.  Oh well 7 of the nine bottles in the ageing kit remain unopened.  I have used spray adhesive and broadcasting of sand gravel over the lower zone and started to glue and place rocks.  After drying I will tilt and spill loose material and go again. it takes several times to get enough material to stay in place, so we can transport this stand and not worry too much.

209 How to build an erector set. I made up the two sides of the main scaffold by lashing local cut spruce logs and pinning a cross member on the outside of the frame.   I then made up the top platform to set in place.  I am not sure I like this. I need the schooner there to figure it out.

210 I needed to add 1 by 2 trim boards around the bottom of the plywood to thicken and complete the base.  I smoothed up the edges and painted out the edge.   I am not sure I will be adding the cost of a glass box for this diorama, as it will not necessarily last that long.  

211 here comes the first application of Spanish moss to replicate the seaweed.   Wow I have a lot to learn here.  I keep cutting it up into smaller pieces, but is won’t sit down.  Maybe I wet it.   The little pile of gravel is what fell of this time when I tilted.  Not bad

Cheers

Post 24

A little more Bulwark

The bulwarks are going to be a bit tough.  This phase is to get the white planks in and that was not too difficult.  The stern is going to be a challenge that I will explain later. 

• 189 here we are dry fitting the port side white 1/32 plank that I cut down to 3/16 wide.
• 190 after gluing the starboard side. I dry fit the top planks again from the kit and it quickly became obvious the white plank was too wide.  I went to the picture of the model of the Essex and found yes, their white plank was narrower than all the others, and definitely was narrower than the top plank.  
• 191 so off the 3/16 wide planks came, and we made up new planks at 1/8 and they look much better in proportion
• 192 the transition between the raised foredeck and the main bulwark looks a little forced as the 1/16^th strip makes up the height.  I did not want to force a 5/16-inch plank to avoid that joint as that would have been an unrealistic 15-inch-wide plank.  Thinking in inches of full scale, perhaps I should have used 3/16 plus 1/8^th instead.   on the other hand the 1/16" strip lines up with the raised shear plank so it becomes a continuous line.  the option I chose.   Oh well lesson learned is more planning on the full build up next time.

The next step is to figure out how to set the tombstone.  I made up a gig that would clamp to the stern post and hold the tombstone in place.

• 193 Looking at the Essex plan I see the tombstone is parallel to the stern post with ½ “space.  Also, it is a little smaller than the kit size.  To correct the size, I will take it off the top after all it is together. 
• 194 here the jig is in place
• 195 I am sure now as I fiddled with these dimensions and having the gig in place, that there was more trimming and spiling to these planks to sit tightly together
• 196 I figured out by looking again at the Essex plan and model photo what to do with the stern post.  The red drop of paint shows what must be ground off.  Too bad I didn’t figure that out earlier
• 197 here the double twist on the starboard size cause trouble and needed extra clamping.  This joint fell apart more than once.  I like to blame gravity. This joint fell apart several times, so I need to get it together and then clean up extra glue etc. with some filing
• 198 here we go with the little white plank trying to hold the recess with the lower black plank back to the tombstone
• 199 oops the starboard side that causes all the trouble ended up too high.  I had to cut it off and figure out a shim to pull it up and re-glue it
• 200 I think we are getting there
• 201 here we are gluing the top plank that is just thicker at 3/64” than the 1/16^” white plank to help with the edge.  It is the kit supplied piece

On deck…Now for another oops.

• 202 I made up the pintles for the rudders in 1/8 size just because I thought they looked better. The pin was 1/16”.  I went to the Essex plan and sure enough that was way too big.   So back to square one and you can see the 3/32” band about to be installed
• 203 the tiny pin 1/32” in the upper pintle broke the solder joint and fell out during peening the little brass pins….oops
• 204 taking it out caused damage to the rudder. Here is a little dutchman going back in and the new pintle was made up.   Thank goodness the rudder will be painted.

Cheers

Post 23

Diorama planning and materials

The work on the Bulwarks continues, and I can see it will for some time.  As each step requires a respite for paint or glue drying, I am now laying out and getting into the diorama.  This is all experiment or trial and error so let’s see what we get.

First up is to gather material.  I think I have enough to begin,

• 184 here is where we begin. The slipway rails.  I went through this zone with another layer of joint compound and set the pieces where they go.  I figure this is the basic unit and everything goes around it

• 185 I have cleared other projects and leave the layout tabl3 for this phase of the project.

• 186 at this end we have three boxes. One has clean sawdust the next dirty sawdust, from cutting the woods sticks and the large box has strips of bark and cuttings from the band saw work on those sticks.  The far pile of extra logs is for ???  We have of course the people, various milled limber and the thinner sticks for use in building a scaffold and ladder

• 187 here we find two diorama products, to jars of paste dirt and paste rock from Vallejo. The ways ready are for more top cutting and installation as well as scaffold sticks and a few practice stones

• 188 here we have a Vallejo would affects kit and the wagon to experiment with, the drill and tools to toothpick timbers together. We have collected the first batch of stones and some more sticks to try and make up spar blanks that look more realistic than the perfect dowels that came in the kit

In the works or on order we have some diorama moss…brown and fall color lichen I believe and a need for a few more colored paints.   I also need to rough mill a few planks as the wood used for a scaffold would not likely have been perfect.  I also need to think if I should show some type of lifting rig , I believe the heavier items like the bowsprit, rudder and the like may have been rigged with a gin pole of sorts.   That may have to wait for another smaller scale build where there is room for these things.

cheers

Post 22

Get the first bulwark strake on and set up for strake 2

I guess if a plank goes full length it is a strake.  I will need to come back and add a few joists after, but since they go all the way I am calling them strakes.  I knew this was to be a hard part of the build.   planks are to bend in more than one direction, and we want crisp colors as we go.   One step forward, find we need to paint something. Paint something and find more defects…a few repetitions are in the cards, so here goes the bouncing ball.

• 175 here we are once bit twice warned adding the hold down clamps as we add the lower bulwark stake to the starboard side.
• 176 now looking at the next strake we see that the deck thickness of 1/16 needs to be accounted for.   I had assumed that to be the case and planned to add a 1/16 square piece.
• 177 dry fitting the piece we are reminded of the difficulty in the aft section.  If we keep building up, we shall exceed the height of the long knee just to the right of the clamp. I also think these strakes are sloping up too fast, and will re-glue and hold down the bottom strake before moving on. I believe looking closely at Essex that the bulwarks are on deck to the last station and then flare out.  
• 178 here in a better view; we see the need to spile this strake all along to lover the height to half the remaining knee height. We also see across the deck that gap is a little too high.
• 179 The same issue took place on the foredeck and some spiling of this plank is in order. The other issue here is that the raised deck strake and shear planks need to be painted black before this white strake is added.
• 180 while painting the forward section it seamed foolish not to go ahead and mask off that top line and paint it out.  I can see if it is indeed what I want to show, if I want to add a molding etc.  also treating it like a primer I will likely need to sand it out and repaint later.
• 181 here is the port side painted. I do not love the dip in the line, but it is the line of the third strake. 
• 182 here I am re-gluing to lower strakes overnight. I have added the block to train the plank to reverse their curve to meet the tombstone aft. 
• 183 here I have painted the starboard side. I much prefer the line of the curve than port side. I can also go and fix this all up before moving to fast forward

Cheers

Peter

thank you for the suggestion.  more though for your selected piece.  I went on line to woodland scenic and was so overwhelmed.  what you selected to show is very close in scale to what with a little brown color might work.  Yesterday i was in the woods and along the driveway picking up rocks, and more sticks to try to cut down spars.  I got caught using the admiral's colander and mixing bowl   oops

so now I can google moss and see where it takes me.  I will let you all know before i glue it in

cheers 

Ron

good to see a neighbor on line.  Thanks for pointing out my spelling. it has never been a strength but as you see it does not slow me down.  there was another silly mistake in that post....I called the maple strips I was color checking before adding in making up the "pads" planking.  that too was not only wrong but mis leading as the planking was shellac. 

happy to have you checking up on me

cheers 

Post 21

Building bulwarks

To move upward into bulwarks usually means colors should be all decided. I think this is better because I like to pre-paint parts at this point to give sharper edges and things.  We shall have one of three strakes white and the other two black and three different thickness also make this easier.   I hope at least

• 165 here we are with two coats of shellac and some steel wool rubbing and vacuum to clean up.   No more stalling, I have chose to copy much of the color scheme from the Essex display.  My thoughts are that carbon black going into linseed oil was easy and a cheaper alternative to how ever they made green.  I will still do green above the waterline but assume the less expensive paint would be there before copper, below water.   For the inside rail’s bulwark, waterways etc. I will use the gray as shown on Essex.   Again, a simple mixing to achieve and not more imported pigments for this schooner built in a remote site.  I am guessing of course

• 166 here I looked at four color samples for the pads… wipe on poly, plane, shellac and cherry stain [for some reason is upside down in this photo].  No worries it was awful and I am going with the top one, wipe on poly.

To build the bulwark, I will also follow much of Essex. There are three strakes involved.   The main deck will get a 1/16 to better have scuppers square cut/ filed.   The second strake is 1/32 white out and gray in.  this detail hopefully will give a sharp edge between colors.  For the top strake, I will use the kit supplied 3/64 strake.  Again, it will create a crisper edge of black over white on the outside.   I assume I will be trimming this as it is a good 1/16+ too wide.   I will dry fit and decide when to sand.

• 167 here I have dry fit things to be sure I am on the right track

• 168 here on the painting bench I have the three colors involved.  Black outside and gray inside for top and bottom. The big kit pieces started to warp with paint, so I place lead and plate over them as they dried.  They will need to be scored too as they are the size of two planks for convenience. The little stanchions are waiting their turn to become gray.

• 169 here we go with the first one.  I am a little nervous as the aft build out of the tombstone will need to be fit in.  I think this will be easier than making a frame and trying to get the planks to meet up.  We’ll see later if I am right

• 170 inspecting the fit after gluing and clamping, I found the strake came up a bit creating a gap.   I must fix it!

• 171 Turning her around and elevating the whole stand to clamp both sides down might work.

• 172 the gap went away, a little glue came out, but we should be ok

• 173 just a detail as we make up the rudder fittings.  I increased the size of the band just to satisfy me.

• 174 here you can see the other side with the pins in place.  Now I need to dig through more boxes and see if I can rescue my blackening kit.  I found one little piece of solder and it may be enough to finish.

All for now

Post 20

So what is this seaweed all about?.....or where is it?

We just had a January thaw, so it is time to reflect on what the diorama will look like.  The following study are first of details of rock, dirt and seaweed taken from my dock area which is within two miles, as the crow flies, from where this schooner was built on the Sheepscot river.  

• 156 here our shop dog is helping study the color and texture at the waters edge. This is done at the same time as the diorama, about 3 feet below the highest tides and two feet below normal high tide.
• 157 see the bright green in the top one-foot zone then the granite is covered with barnacles and growth making it gray. Then in the wet zone, seaweed is brown with yellowing tubes that are full of seawater.
• 158 Here looking about 100 yards away one can see the town landing. It shows the angle of slope typically chosen for this type work.  That actual ramp is hidden just past the white granite ledge.
• 159 here looking down above the water we see the gravel/sand that is a good solid base for the slip way
• 160 here along the edge of ledges one sees trees are right there at the water’s edge. The brown grass in the foreground would have been eel grass just 20 years ago, but those little green crabs that came here as part of warming , burrow in the mud over winter eating all the roots to the demise of the former shore land grass lands.

Now let’s look at what it might have been years ago. For that I combine a few shots from both Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. Wonderful places for anyone to visit

• 161 Here at the end of Campobello Island one sees darker rocks that get more submersion thus more growth and seaweed.   Walking down there, one finds the gravel is larger sized, not so sandy as ours.  
•  
• 162 Here we see to the east that gravel area developed into a rocky beach.   We have them here too.  One might think the beach to be more conducive to a boat works but evidence shows other wise

• 163 here driving the cost of Newfoundland we see what I suspect the east side of Sheepscot river, where our schooner was built, might have looked like.  The eel grass along the banks holding soil.  Here in the foreground after years of soil migration, more permanent dry land and wildflowers take over. Once we lose the ell grass the water invades and removed more of our shoreline.  
• 164 here we are near Peggy Cove Nova Scotia.  if we think about all of the timber that was taken from land adjacent to the Maine rivers, much of the coast line looks like this area.  this area is not forested but a glacial moraine leading into the sea.  

Anyway as we see the coast today and need to remember the treeless landscape of the mid 19th century we have many options.   Fortunately for me the diorama only includes a tiny area right on the water's edge.  If I can not figure out seaweed, the edge might look more like this one.  then some smart viewers will likely ask....where is the seaweed?

So now with all those visuals in mind, I need to take everything off the diorama and finalize the shape of the plaster and start painting.  I still have no idea what may work to show seaweed.  I may bring in some granite pieces, but the scale may not look right. 

Cheers

Thank You Eric.  the research and learning and visiting related sites makes these projects a joy.   My Library grows too.

jon 

Post 19

My search goes on for paint. 

 both these models above, and the 5 cropped paintings I include below show lots of green in the Gloucester fleet.   Reading what I can find about early paint a find a few things of issue regarding availability of green.

• I just read that  paint was heavy [ I guess it still is], and therefore was not centrally manufactured and shipped.  it tended to be more local.  perhaps in this case Bath about ten miles by water away.  
• reading about the green pigments of the time I learned they were very toxic.  The sequences of inventions of green was tedious.  Scheele's green late 18th century was full of Copper arsinate which reportedly killed many. it was followed by Paris Green and then emerald green.   the pigments later were used for poison. So was that readily available in Bath Maine in 1816.
• since those green pigments shades were , at least looking on line today, brighter or even yellow green, they did not look like the common dark green of new England we know so well.  maybe since yellow and blue were such common colors the locals mixed them, and got the green we see.    it would be good to learn about that before the final commitment.  a simpler answer is to leave off some paint or use all black.   I think the models will look better with the dark painted hull contrasting with an unpainted deck and finishing.  

here are a few online cropped painting that show a consistency of look.  Perhaps this is not too complicated and if the two models chose almost the same color scheme i should stop worrying and  just move on

• 148 this image was cropped from about 1860 painting....see the green below
• 149  not sure of date...different artist but again...green
• 150 here i crop it and can see the copper bottom
• 151 mid 1850  and again black above and gray of green in the shadow below
• 152 here we see some of the deck color and again green around the inside of the bulkhead
• 153 this cropped image looks all black
• 154 same again inside and out
• 155 here is the working study.  I printed out the images and taped them to use as reference as i build up the bulkhead to reflect the right design. The more I study the Essex image above , the more similar details I can see on the drawings....scuppers by example.

I did put on some shellac today, so we will see how that went tomorrow. and perhaps we paint the combing of the hatches.  they would have been installed before the decking.   I scratched in and darkened some deck plank butt joints and now have to think about adding nails all across. it would be much easier to do before the bulkheads. But i find can be a distraction.  

cheers 

Posting 18

Picking the color scheme

The first model to study

I showed a picture of a model in the first post. [ item 2]  For the record this image is sailing left to right. [ starboard side]  To give credits I have since learned it is the model of the Pinky Sailors Delight  by J Doane Nickerson and is part of  the Cape Ann Museum.   The model maker was apparently a sail maker by trade.  It part of the  ….Fitz Henry Lane Online  which copied from their site is……… is a freely accessible interactive and interdisciplinary online resource created by the Cape Ann Museum. The website is organized around a catalog of the paintings, drawings, and lithographs of nineteenth-century American painter Fitz Henry Lane (1804–1865).

  Their comment for this model is………………….the model is  wood, metal, cordage
20" l. x 19" h. x 3 3/4" w. [not to scale]  it came to the Cape Ann Museum as a Gift of Mr. J. Hollis Griffin, 1940 (891)

"Pinkys" were early nineteenth-century schooner-rigged derivations of Chebacco boats. This model is a good example of a traditional “sailor’s model,” or in this case, a sailmaker’s model, Mr. Nickerson having been a sailmaker.

Here are three images that I created as I could blow up online part of the photo image and captured them.

141 the bow view:  here I am focusing on the bow sprit construction, and the combination of painting and bands.  The waterline down is copper.  The gold line follows a strake in the upper band, three planks below the main shear strake.    The white line follows the shear plank of the raised foredeck. There is a splash guard above the rail like future schooners. The anchor goes through a hole and not a diagonal slot like the newer  GladTidings design.

142 the middle section:  Here we see the scuppers and the relationship of the painted inner bulwarks.  They are solid and built up and it there one can calculate where the gold and white bands are.  There is no obvious protrusion [ molding or cove] just the color.  The copper looks like the painted approach I am using on my other build Aphrodite, the first ship built in Boothbay. That model though is 1:98. We have just the opposite problem here at 1:24 if we choose to show copper.  As of now I want to show it.

143 the stern view: here I see the build up of the high stern as being less dramatic. I think it has no tombstone. The binnacle shows just over the rail about 25% of the height.   What is significant is how overpowering the mast and rigging are to these views.  Everything I am forecasting would exclude those elements, so the deck is perhaps quite bare.  What that also means is my cute little ¼” square holes for the mast step is based on model instructions and I need to reconsider that sizing.  Typically, a mast passed right through the deck, so the hole needs to be round and full size…. perhaps another oops

A second Model to study

144 was a more recent find.   It is listed in the same site as above …the Model of the pinky "Essex"

Model and photography by Erik A.R. Ronnberg, Jr.  wow we all know who Erik is. That makes this model, and close study verifies it, a masterpiece.

Here are the same three mages that I used the online tool to blow up the image and then captured for my further study

145 the bow section:  Here it is 1821 and the bow sprit looks more technical.  It also looks different from the drawing that came in the study of Howard Chapelle’s book with the same name Essex.  He talked about some confusion and how the models and some of the half models did not line up name wise.  I don’t want to get into that.  I am following the drawing not the subtle difference.  More important is the coloring.  It seems to support the dark green and black.  Both colors easy to make and so prevalent here in new England in the early days of lamp black and linseed oil..  Everything for shutters to cottages to boat after boat had some form of green.  I think I am going to be safe with that choice. the gold is clearly a molded element, much easier to build

146 mid-section: here we see the hatch covers. that gives me a hint for the whole deck the hatch light coloring, with coming that looks to be painted, and I am guessing it is the same gray of the inner bulkhead. There seems to alternate dark green and gray. I like it because it is easy to do and with this builders name, the idea  has definite Credence. Here the masts do not look so ominous. I am grateful. I may do some measuring and go with this and the size on the drawings. I also feel better seeing two shrouds and not the single shroud on the plans.  I will at least build the chain plates and lower dead eyes

147 The stern: look at that binnacle. I think I am ok with my curved roof . here unlike the example above the raised stern is more technical. It overhangs out and beyond the rudder coming toward which must be a tombstone or at least an triangle.    More study before I build this thing. i know in the spring i need to take a trip down to that museum and see what i can see and learn.

So a lot to think about

All for now…still reading

Eric

thanks

we are always learning something.   next for me is to see what it does with or with out stain

cheers 

Post 17

Almost done with the deck

This posting is to include the rationalizing I am doing for the next few steps.  It is cold and damp outside, so a good time to think and maybe decide.

the 5 next steps 

1.    How will I finish the deck, since that must be done before building up the bulkheads?

2.    How to build the bulkheads…..in 1820 ish they did not look like Glad Tidings;  there were normal sided with scuppers

3.    How to treat the outside of the hull.  We need to get a legitimate look, but also what do we want to show under s=construction

4.    What do we do for spars?

5.    Can we decide on the slipway and get it built into the diorama?

First of all, let’s catch up on completing the deck.

131 here we have rebuilt the companion way door to the right height, and I am gluing a piece of 1/64 birch play onto two rails to receive planks making up the hatch cover.  The roof on the binnacle laying near by is complete using the same method

132  here we have completed building and have started the final stages of sanding the deck and furnishings .

133  here we look aft. The stanchions are loose fitted and the horse cross knee is ready for the aft bulkhead work

134 our stern view looking into the binnacle

135 and to the new door and hatch cover at the forward gangway

Now a  progress review as we contemplate  the next five operations listed above

136 bow detail  here we might be beginning to rig the bowsprit and forestays. I am still looking into Fitz Henry Lane web site for painting schemes of the period. the pencil waterline down will be copper over green.  the top three strakes of the hull  [ below main deck] plus raised side of foredack will be black as will the solid bulkheads. there will be a gold pinstripe separating green from black, and a white stripe along the fore deck shear plank going all the way aft. The top rail will be green if painted and insides of the bulkheads ivory /off white gray. the uncertainty also leads to fresh wood if it looks good.

137 bow top.  Here the deck finish is most important.  It needs to look very new.  I am thinking little if any paint. On the other furnishings although the hatches may have been painted …we can wait for those thoughts

138 stern overall. This  view is all about the story…building the first schooner on a primitive site…..it’s the seaweed and understanding of the tide needed to launch and the hand made slipway.   Ugh I have no idea what I am going to do about that seaweed.  I think first up is to complete the slipway and plaster work to make all of that at least stable. then add some real rock as and background dirt paint. 

139 stern detail….here we may want to think about a few pieces of copper going on over paint. Very hard and worrisome to consider at this large scale. I have again no idea where to begin…the raw pieces would ¾ by 2 inches. I also need to build up the rudder.

Next Steps 1-5 preparations

140 here I have taken the kit provided milled basswood for the slipway and made up samples of different finishes.  This is a long term test because the issue is not just what the look is today but how about after a year.  Example:  linseed oil turns black in the sun.  what do the other items do.  I have spent a few hours and will do some more reading in the finishing hints are to get help deciding. i do not have time to wait.  I know normal varnish darkens with age. it's great for masts or wanting an old deck.  This diorama however, is a snap shop and it has to stay looking new.    Now, I like the shellac approach [ third from the bottom] and its immediate affect…a slight darkening to a more realistic pine color with little sheen..  I still think it darkens over time.  I have been using hand rub poly as I think it is quite stable.  But it is so clear the basswood stays too light for my taste.  In the past I use light cherry stain and poly over it. that again is too dark.     Much to think about but it needs to happen next week. i will be on the finishing section reading the next few nights.  

In my next posting I will share a few visuals I have found on line that explain, along with e 1821 drawing, how I plan to complete the bulkheads. I also will update my thoughts on the spars and maybe have some progress on the slipway. An example of thoughts is how did they fasten the slipway timbers.  I am guessing they would not use lots of iron spikes but perhaps lots of trunnels.   i just need to stain a bunch of toothpicks and drill holes for that method...i like it

all for now 

Post 16

More decking

I have found, as many already know, there are a few complications to completing a deck. One needs to think through the next steps and be sure not to go ahead too far.  That applies to deck furnishings, cabins etc. too.  I always love to show oops too…some more are coming

• 126 here I found I needed to bring out the big guns…5 pound boxes of lead to hold down the stubborn deck.
• 127 here we set in the Samson post. I need to shape up the top of the bow stem and get ready for the bow sprit to be sure everything fits.  The hawse timbers came in OK. The next planks need both weight and bands to stay down.  I suppose I could us super glue, but I like the conservative approach to using wood glue for wood and it take a bit to set up.
• 128 here is another bad planning photo.  The first two stanchions are lined up right on top of bulkhead. It would have been easy to cut out little slots before the deck.  Now the crew needs to dig.
• 129 this is a good night progress shot a few days ago…coming along
• 130 I’ll finish up this week with the next oops.  I put the roof planks on the companion way right over the doors.  Oops the planks , except the outer ones need to cut back and the door rebuilt higher.   We’ll see next time how this got fixed

cheers

Yves thanks for the kind words of support.  I hope you are half right ... the fun continues.  I am sampling many different finishes today who knows what we decide.  I really worry about the seaweed

cheers

jon 

Allan

thank you for this great log and providing the link source.  I have never figured out how to search there........  and Bob, thank you for finding this completed log and asking the pertinent question.

Effie, now Ernastina is here in Boothbay Harbor, Me in the later stages of a multi year complete rebuild.  I have been on her a few times and would like to share a few views.  if either of you would like to see her, I can make some contacts for you.

enjoy below. i have a few more if you are interested. My focus was Bowdoin that was next to her being re-planked last year.  all this photos are in my Bowdoin  diorama log

Andrew

I love dropping in from time to time to see this Bowdoin coming alive.  great work

jon 

Eric

I am happy to see this new log.  I am working away at trying to create an 1816 schooner built in Maine with little visual examples.  I learned of the Opium schooners by reading a great book, that I recommend for its full content, Barons of the sea  by Steven Ujifusa.  This story tells about the owners, the builders and the captains of the china clippers.  For any clipper ship builders it's a must read.  However, clearly in the portions of the book detailing the life and business of the trade, these fast schooners racing into Canton were a strong supporting character.    So yes your build is a kit but the style of things like deck fittings et al will be a help to me. 

I also like your attempt to experiment with techniques of building planks of different woods.  

cheers 

jon