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themadchemist

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Everything posted by themadchemist

  1. So how many of the boats are you going to build Harv? Didn't the Conny have several? She's looking Nice, you gotten quite a bit done it looks like. Now comes the bigger task, rigging. It's always fun to watch the masts go up and fill out. It really makes them look so different.
  2. Sorry Augie, I said question and then hit you with 3 or 4. So it sounds like the sanding sealer acts similarly to the pumice in the french polishing, in that it fills as well as finishes. That answers alot. Thanks for the time to answer all of my crazy questions. I always seem to learn better from those that understand then from reading instructions. I agree with you on the colour and grain variation of wood and the beauty to creates, although for the Pinnace build I'm wanting to have evenly coloured wood so went with boxwood, as the evenness of colour in Chucks build also I find striking. I also handpicked the basswood in the canoe to simulate symmetry. Great minds think alike. I feel that small details like that although sometimes ultimately unnoticed by theirselves, make the whole build so much better. There are just so many options, and I like exploring them all. Thanks again for the tutorial.
  3. So I see your back safe and refreshed and with pictures Looks like a fabulous journey, Glad everything went well. Now back to Berlin rigging
  4. I somewhat agree. If one considers each build a progression of the art of ship building, overlapping builds gives less of a picture of how you have progressed as an artisan. As I mentioned in Robbyns thread, IIRC, It would be interesting to go back after several models and rebuild a favorite just to see how much better it turns out. The second time is always better it seems. The only place where I'd disagree is if a certain build loses its fun factor, but one should always give time as in this hobby one can easily mistake overwhelmed for a lack of fun. For some I think rigging may be a stopping issue as it is very technical and very overwhelming. This may be why some gravitate toward smaller working craft. @ Augie, was the Admiralty design (ie no rigging) a deciding factor in choosing the Confed as a build? I can completely see that being the case as it is less work and easier to display. Especially if one leans towards the wood working aspect of building. I often became so mindboggled watching the Syren build I couldn't even comment. With my eyes, its like "Where's Waldo", seeing what lines are new, especially once the running rigging gets started.
  5. But IIRC, Mark on his Licorne build has Admiralty orders that its to be completely planked. Now there's a reverse. POF planked and a POB framed So another question as I try and understand completely. You mention pre-stain, which I understand helps slotchyness (especially on basswood), so how is sanding sealer different as I thought it was used for similar reasons. Ive been Tung oiling the DSotM fixtures the last few days, I'm still using my old oil methods but I'm impressed with the Poly applications I've seen. As I think I've said, I've only ever used spray poly and never the WOP. Also how many coats of WOP is the typical applictaion, It's taking 4 double coats of Tung oil on cherry to get the sheen and finish I want. I am also limit ed to 12 hours between coats for a good dry time. Does the WOP dry faster? Buck has filled me in on the Morgans boat, which is finished with blonde shellac, another natural finish. I actually bought some shellac and pumice to attempt a french polish at some point. I don't think he uses many synthetic finishes, as far as I know from our conversations. Finishing wood is definitely different then finishing metal, especially as cars are made of basically one metal, steel and there are so many woods and they all have there own characteristics.
  6. Somehow the GFP seem less gratuitous with all that served standing rigging surrounding it. Maybe now your on the finge of Gratuitous Severed Standing Rigging Pictures (GSSRP ) with a sublimiminal GFP. More nice work Andy!
  7. Lots of forward momentum on the Goth. I somehow have been watching the Half Moon and misssed the Goth updates. Excellent work my friend. Just thinking of tackling rigging scares the heck outta me. Kite string, hum, interesting place to get rigging rope.
  8. Nice colour of the frames. What woods were you planking with again? I love the contrast in the Confed's colours. Ha, finally something I knew. Having just read Ben and Rusty's logs I knew what the bulkhead cutouts were for, WOW, for once I'm ahead of the game.
  9. That serving is starting to draw the attention away from the stark whiteness of Peggy. Beautiful full broadside/bow shot. It really shows off the consistent quality of the rigging. Even in a shot such as this one can see the detail in the rigging, the shrouds look great in contrast to the stays. She's one beautiful build!
  10. So you removed the one side without breaking through the upper planking? WOW, I'd have had to replace the decking on both sides...and you cant even tell where the planking was replaced. Interesting adaption to the kit? I'm even more impressed now that I understand what you were doing. Well done job on some very delicate work. Love that last broadside photo, she looks fabulous with all 3 decks stacked
  11. Hello Kevin Sorry to hear things didn't work out for you as planned. Its OK to be grumpy, I know I am often as things aren't as I would like, but I've found that life has a way of giving us what we want and need. It just doesn't always seem that way at the time. So many times in my life when one thing fell through, another better situation presented itself. Even with my disablity I have found positives, which wouldn't have occurred otherwise. Don't worry, we'll all be here waiting for updates eagerly as always.
  12. Nice work Adriaan. Did I miss something? What are the magnets for? Is the top held on with magnets for wiring repairs? I have glued smaller pieces together many times to create the size piece needed, always works a charm. As a matter of fact the caprails on my build are made from 3 planks edge glued and carved to fit the bow curve, as I could get the wood to bend laterally that much and didn't have wider planking. Those seams aren't really noticable now unless you look for them. Sometime one must just use what we have, thats the sign of a real builder. I'm glad you didn't give up on the lights, they were worth the trouble.
  13. Congratulations on the parts recieved. Waiting is always bad but even worse when you need the part as the next step. I got behind several months ago while under the weather and have been trying to dig my way out of a whole every since. I went nearly 4 weeks without being able to read MSW and got so far behind, that catching up has been near impossible. I luckily found the "view last unread" button finally and now know where to restart, which makes things much easier, glad I found that button
  14. So are you back to your newer old ship or the older new ship this trip? Now that made alot of sense? Hope you followed. So how late in the fall/winter do you work, or is that weather dependent?
  15. Wow, I finally made it to the end Now if I can just keep up. I couldn't remember where I got lost, so just decided to start on page one. What a wild ride of 110 pages of fun. The smaller rope is a definite improvement on the stay. Now to catch up on the San Ildefonso also. Glad to see you feeling better even if it means getting back to work.
  16. I highly recommend the midest canoe kit. It was my first wooden kit and it hooked me. I think any builder would love it as an escape. I've personally thought, since I now have the formers and blueprints, about building another with some fancier wood. I'd have the canoe in your list regardless, just for kicks. I also love midwest kits, The wood milling and instructions blow AL out of the water.
  17. I used this method on the swift and it worked well. Wold you call it pseudo-spiling? Of course its a multi-step process, but most everything is in this hobby. I found transparent tape a good method for marking the psuedo spiling mark. I'd stretch the tape over the adjacent plank, then use a pencil edge to mark the tape. this then was taped onto the pre-curved plank and the spile cut was marked. log entry #145 has a tutorial on how I used this method to mark the whiskey plank. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/997-swift-by-themadchemist-artesania-latina-virginia-pilot-boat-1805-older-version/page-10 I worked for me. I also found the small 3'' hand planes very useful in shaving the plank edges down close to the mark, before finishing with sand paper. I really like Augie's shrink wrap on the screws idea. The wet wood, at least basswood, has a tendency to mark where it presses against the pressure points (screws, nails, pins), another good idea learned from watching what others do. Glad to hear you weathered things ok, I didn't know thing got bad out there. We don't have TV so no news for me. The world could end and I wouldn't know it. So now your going to have to go to Nebraska to fish, HUM, what a bummer. Maybe some will swim back.
  18. that gratuitous figurehead photo is obscene, who would be such a cad! Cover the childrens eyes Augie! Although Augie was showing his figurehead in public recently IIRC, that and his guns also. Nice job on the serving for the forestay collar. Thats some tedious and time consuming work but oh so well worth it. Nice job on the shrouds and lanyards also, Nice rope, was it kit or aftermarket. So india ink and alcohol to darken them, hum Thanks for that tidbit. So many great Ideas. I Liked that several species pun/ref a few pages back also
  19. Actually David, if you check my log you can see how I attached the stem/keel/sternpost before second planking and then using an exacto and formed a small psuedo-rabbet along the keel line which was used to fit the second planking. This gave a nice tight bearding line and I was very happy with the results. Looks like you have a bunch of sanding ahead.
  20. Nice work on the posts. Its good to see all of the decks together finally. Congrats on a milestone in the build. ...and the lights, Just fabulous! She's lite up like a christmas tree.
  21. What a great union of 3 builders families from 3 areas of the world. Reminds me of my music hobby. Concerts were always a great way to meet online friends and traders. It's always fun to meet in person the people that have similar love of a hobby and praticipate in a hobby related activity. Its so good to see you all get together and have a weekends fun for all. 63 cannons, LOL. If you would have been in the US, TSA would have probably strip searched you for that comment. Perhaps Anja's eye roll is her thinking, Thanks for carrying home "MY" Aggy?
  22. Thanks for the info Augie. Did you use stain, as it appears not to have much colour, or does the prestain help mute the stain also. I was also wondering if you used oil or water based? The water based seems the easier to clean out, but something makes me think it wouldn't work as well. Personally I've only ever used the spray poly and not the wipe on, I've always used Tung oil (typically Formbys) for wipe on applications. Also as this log gets lots of traffic maybe someone can help me find or remember this - I remember precrash someone, I seem to remember it was a scratch builder, used beeswax desolved in some kind of white spirits as a finish. Does this sound familiar? IIRC it was brushed on and then buffed with a soft rag.
  23. Nice decking, Augie. Just out of curiosity, was the ligther lower deck due to its lack of exposure to the elements compared to the main deck or something else, I wonder? What brand/type of prestain and WOP do you use. I've never really used either, I've always been a tung oil fan, But seeing your finish makes me wonder if I should branch out some. Also am I undertanding correctly, the prestain is only used to prevent the WOP from making the basswood splotchy? There wasn't any stain applied? Prestain is something else I've never used. Any advise appreciated, and sorry if I missed (or forgot) this mentioned previously. Now that the Syren's all under glass, I need to go back and re-read through that log again, sadly most of the wooden part dialog of that build disappeared as electrons.
  24. Welcome home Andy. Its a shame for a 100+ year old oak to die. We had a big wind storm back in 2007 and there was a 100+ year old Elm that went down. It didn't make a swish sound it was solid as a rock. Luckily it fell acroos the street and only took out powerline, if it had fallen 180o the other way it would have split the neighbours house into. A friend had a large old oak like that removed last year as it died from a lightning strike. Due to its position, within falling range of 2 houses and 2 garages, they had to get a bonded tree trimmer and it ended up being $1200 US just to fall it. Bob and Dana ended up doing the removal work themselves, which gave them a couple of winters worth of fire wood.
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