JerryTodd
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Everything posted by JerryTodd
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It's a bumpkin, boomkin, or some variation of that depending on where you're from. Pretty much all vessels with a square fores'l will have boomkins forward, and sometime on the quarters aft as well, for the main braces and sheets. The tack will run to a block on the boomkin the up to a pin, cleat, or post near the knightheads, or thereabouts. The point is to haul the windward clew of the sail forward on the wind (close-hauled), which is what the yards do on the sails above the course.- 648 replies
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A couple of oldies
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I think it was just a credit card ad
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We just call them "sticks." "Sea was so rough it nearly rolled her sticks out of her!"
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Here's a Jimmy James sketch of Jack-Line reefing, some call French Reefing. It's a method used on real ships around the 1840's or so and can be seen in photos as late as the 1920's. I didn't install such a set-up as I figure that if it's blowing too hard for tops'ls, it's blowing too hard to sail. I have nothing to prove A line is attached across the sail, typically at each reef point, making retro-fitting a sail easier without altering anything. On a model you could use line that matched the sail's color to make it less visible, and put in regular reef-points for show. The cringles are hooked to hold the sail up and out (think reefing tackle) and a jack-line is passed through the loops from front, over the yard to the back, back over the yard to the front and so on across the sail. The jack-line's tied to the yard at either end. You can CA some of the end of the jack-line to make a sort of needle to help thread it. It's a LOT simpler and easier to do and undo on a model than tying far too many reef-points than any human mind could endure.
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Congratulations Timmo! She's beautiful. Those gusts feel like they're deliberately messing with you, don't they. Did you manage any video at all? About those gusts... I reverted to only controlling the tops'l yards, cutting out direct control of the course yards. I'll have working bunts and clews on the courses to brail them up (after pulling the wire from the sleeve at the foot), and the t'gallants and royals will be removable, yard and all. I'd make that stays'l brailable if I were setting any. I have two tris'ls, or spencers on gaffs that brail up in lieu of stays'ls that may or may not get set if the air's very light, but their sheets aren't controlled. The trick is not only having options in sail configurations, but options you can implement at the water's edge.
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Welcome neighbor, well, relative to some folks here, we live next door.
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I have one of these to do in 1:36 scale yet, for Constellation's launch. I was thinking of doing it in styrene, I tend to not burn my fingers so much working in plastic.
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Made the fore tops'l yard parrel, and feeling cockey with my soldering, a new wythe.
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Rigging Instructions 1/96 Revell Constitution
JerryTodd replied to kruginmi's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I've had 2 Constitutions and 2 United States kits since 1971 and have never seen the more "verbose" version of the rigging instructions. They must be newer versions. -
That would be a lizard such as the attached.
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Sunday (5/21) past was the Baltimore Port Expo for National Maritime Day. I couldn't get the model ready to sail in time, and the pool was to shallow to allow it anyway, so she sat on her cart on display. She did wear all 17 sails and a lot of folks asked a lot of interesting and intelligent questions about her. I took another shot at the parrel I gave up on back in December and I think I got it this time. I'll get no offers to make jewelry or clocks, but I have a parrel. It's a 1/4 wide strip of 1/16" thick copper bent into a two-part ring. 1/16" i.d. brass tubing was soldiered the the ends to make hinges. The post for the yard's yoke is a brass #4 screw threaded and soldier to the copper band. A section of brass tubing was threaded onto it to cover the threads where the yoke will ride, and prevent the retaining nut from being over-tightened. It's lined with 3/8" tall, 1/16" thick bass, CAed inside the parrel so it doesn't mar the mast. I'll grind down that hex-nut smaller at some point. Just two more to go.
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Copper tape wants a smooth surface, the smoother the better.
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These are 1853-54 vintage; launch, cutters, quarter-boats, and stern boat for Constellation
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Did someone say boat howitzer? I needed to research this a bit for Constellation's launch
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Lanyards and other "adjustment points" of that nature would definitely not be tarred with the coating Luce describes, mainly because it would prevent seeing any deterioration or damage on lines that wear most on the inside - like in the holes of the dead-eyes. Pine tar protects the line, mainly from molds, and keeps it supple, while allowing any wear to be visible and dealt with before it becomes critical - but it would be tarred beyond what it received in it's manufacture, making it much darker than the rest of the running rigging.
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The set-up for "adjusting" lanyards is perfectly capable of overcoming whatever "tar" they might have put on them. The odds are Stockholm Tar was used, but something was used, no passage making ship is going wandering about with bare lanyards. Yes, the system shown is from a Navy manual where there's enough crew to send the mast through the bottom of the ship, but the system's the same outside the Navy as well.
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Or staple on some bed-sheet from the thrift shop.
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I think you're displaced, not misplaced, we know where you are
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Did all topsail schooners have ratlines on both masts?
JerryTodd replied to Cathead's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
There would be at least two lower stays on each mast, probably three on the foremast, and two stays with deadeyes or bullseyes on the cross-trees, for each topmast. The foremast would have backstays for the topmast where the tops'l peaks, and the t'gallant if there is provision for one, both on block-and-tackle, "running back-stays." The main tops'l would have at least one running back stay where the main-tops'l's jack yard peaks. The fore would have rats at least as far as can reach the tops'l yard as would the main if there's a square set on it, otherwise, the main probably didn't have any at all, or only on the lower shrouds. The main on sharp-raked craft would also have two running fore-stays from the mast-head to either side of the base of the fore-mast, and did not have a stay running from mast-head to mast head - it would foul the fores'l gaff peak. This is pretty standard for Baltimore clippers, pilot boats, revenue schooners, coastal schooners, etc. -
Some pics I found online over the years showing Trin out of her dock, in drydock, and other a-typical angles. I never did get why they set her up with the yards in the set positions.
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HMS Shannon, who took the Chesapeake, was a Leda class boat, and Unicorn, which also still exists, is a contemporary of Trincomalee and also a Leda. It's pretty lame considering some of the garbage that's offered as kits that there's no kit for these three notable vessels of a very notable class.
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I'm a long way from needing jolly tars as yet; my need is for 1850's US sailors, Marines, and officers.
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