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Nirvana

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Posts posted by Nirvana

  1. 4 hours ago, Riotvan88 said:

    What happened to the model? How did it leak? Was this built using WS gflex epoxy? I believe you commented on my thread about fiberglassing a hull. Did it leak due to using epoxy only with no glass cloth? I've done the same on my model. Bit concerned now.

    I couldn't find where the leakage were. I can imagine due to the somewhat rough water the hatches were not sealing properly and I haven't changed the petroleum vaseline for the rudderstock since 2012.

    Reason I am re-doing the deck is that many of the planks didn't adhere to the subdeck, resulting with water getting under and lifting the planks.
    I did find out on various wood sites that varnishing the subdeck prior epoxying down the planks will result with a better sticking.
    This is something I am make a trial of before planking the deck again.
    The deck is now clean, have only a few areas there to touch up.
    Got new sails as well.

  2. 20 hours ago, jud said:

    Want a right angle? Don't forget the 3, 4, 5 triangle. Using that method you can obtain a right angle of any size within the precision of your measuring tools and your ability to use them. Lots of Data on the net, I have used the method many times on paper, wood and ground, it maters not what linier units you choose to use. Mark your corner, lay a base line out and mark as precisely as you can 4 units from the corner, from that point measure 5 units and scribe an arc near where you expect the corner to be, return to the corner and make another arc at 3 units from the corner, the intersection of the two arcs is the final corner of your 90°, 3, 4, 5 triangle    Image result for 3 4 5 triangle rule

    Old classic working method, and always right!

  3. Removal of epoxy laid planks are a pain. 

    But progress is there.

    I learned something new today; applying a varnish or polyurethane to the wood is a good idea.

    This allows the epoxy not to be dried out.

    Once I have the false deck cleaned I will do so before the new planks are putting in.

     

    20221008_145703.thumb.jpg.1df78f5682ee450bc14fc39830a980f8.jpg

    20221008_164713.thumb.jpg.e10a02ffaac7faf7cbc354317892b7a2.jpg

     

    20221008_211256.thumb.jpg.e337dea3f6c4a3934257440458fbad65.jpg

     

    Hoping to have a clean deck tomorrow Sunday.

     

  4. 5 hours ago, starlight said:

    Welcome, Zac.

     

    I too am from Canada and am in my 20's. There aren't very many young'uns like us here on MSW. ;)

     

    As everyone else has said, do start a build log. I am also working on my first ever model, and have found it both practical and sentimental to have photos and details of my build process.

    Starlight

    Starlight and Zac, don't only take pictures to upload to MSW but save it to your own drive. It's always good to have.

    More pictures are better than few.

    My saved build logs also have copied helpful information from members so I can easily go backwards and find what is needed quicker than using MSW.

  5. After some time in hiatus, I got my dear T37 back in the water some weeks ago.

    However, when sailing with others I noticed my yacht started to get sluggish with the maneuvers.

     When I got her back to the pier, I saw how low she was sitting in the water. And yes, I am glad I got her back in time.

    There was a good quarter inch of water inside of her. Fortunate no electrical equipment got damaged.

    So I have her back in the shop ripping some deck planks which was in need of replacement.
    New material has been ordered. 

    Removing epoxy glued parts is a pain and when sanding a good mask is in need.

     

    253166566_T37rebuild.thumb.jpg.7b4b3a1c9456cd01d447e5743400585a.jpg

     

    She will also get new sails.

     

  6. Michael, I like that you are approaching Vasa as she was seen in Stockholm when coming out of the water.
    I have walked her deck back in the early 70's and at that time she was still very much without any paint.

    Last time I saw was in 2012, at the new museum (there is a new museum to be built for her) and a lot had changed.

    Best of luck with your model, I never finished my Airfix model.

  7. The plugs may differ from to country to country in Europe however taking Sweden as an example;

    Quote

    In Sweden the standard voltage is 230 V and the frequency is 50 Hz. You can use your electric appliances in Sweden, if the standard voltage in your country is in between 220 - 240 V (as is in the UK, Europe, Australia and most of Asia and Africa). Manufacturers take these small deviations into account.

    The plug in the original picture is what is called Euro-plug, fits in most countries in Europe besides UK which has a different prong setting. 

  8. 6 hours ago, No Idea said:

    This is not my sale and I have nothing to do with the sale either. However I don’t see these very often but here’s one for sale if any of the UK builders want one.   I just happened upon it. 
     

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295237997664?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=k809bnrjt7-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=ygWIHLd-RE2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

     

    Mods I don’t know if this is in the correct place or even allowed. I’ll leave it with you to decide. 
     

    Cheers Mark

    I have this plank bender (haven't tried it yet), mine is older and made for the 110V.
    Once they appear on ebay the price starts to shoot up so at 1 pound it's a real catch.

     

  9. Here is a radar I found online,

    Scale wise it looks right.

    My concern is the platform the radar is sitting on.

    One single rod will not hold the radar in place, they need a triangular leg or attached to a mast, a setup to be stable in weather.
    All radar installation I did in early 80's had that setup.

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