HMS Bounty by thomaslambo - Artesania Latina – Scale 1:48

[thomaslambo]

Sorry, I'm not familiar with them.  All the model airplanes I built were RC.  

Edited October 13, 2015 by thomaslambo

[Gentlegiant]

Hi Boyd I like your cabins (not in the kit) can i use you idea ?

[thomaslambo]

Absolutely, and I can't take credit for the idea as many others have done these type of modifications 

 

FYI - If you don't have a copy of "Anatomy of the Ship - The Armed Transport Bounty" by John McKay I highly recommend it.  This is where many builders get ideas for upgrading the AL Bounty kit.  It's one of the most complete sources of information on the Bounty.

 

Good luck 

[Mirabell61]

Hi Boyd,

 

those cabin walls on the last pic

 

look great, well done

 

Nils

[thomaslambo]

Hi Boyd,

 

those cabin walls on the last pic

 

look great, well done

 

Nils

 

 

Hi Nils,

 

I was thinking the same thing....However, the picture is not my build   

 

It can be a curve ball when someone else posts there pictures on your log...I'll direct you to Gentel Giants build log of the same model 

Link: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11556-bounty-by-gentlegiant-artesania-latina/page-2

Edited October 25, 2015 by thomaslambo

[Gentlegiant]

How large is your ladder in your post 65 ?

[Larry Van Es]

Looking good. I just sent you a private message. Keep up the good work.

[toms10]

Just finished going through your build log and was truly impressed.  Very nice work.  Love the precision and detail.

[thomaslambo]

How large is your ladder in your post 65 ?

 

There are two sizes of pre-cut ladders in the kit; parts 150 (7 step) and 151 (9 step).  The ladder in post 65 is the shorter 7 step ladder.

 

Also, IMO AL waits to long in the instructions to have you install the ladders.  As you can see in my log I install them early on...particularly if you're going to add a railing system in the lower decks. 

[thomaslambo]

Looking good. I just sent you a private message. Keep up the good work.

 

Thanks for the kind words...and see my response to your PM 

[thomaslambo]

Just finished going through your build log and was truly impressed.  Very nice work.  Love the precision and detail.

 

Hi Tom,

 

Thanks much for the compliment....and I'm enjoying your build as well 

[Gentlegiant]

As i see in your post 88 you do not use this system of wall (see picture).

[thomaslambo]

As i see in your post 88 you do not use this system of wall (see picture).

 

Hi GG,

 

Good eye on your part, and for the most part yes.

 

I realize English isn’t your native language (I applaud you for being multilingual) so I’ll try and simplify the rather lengthy explanation in my log    

 

I only used the false bulkhead plywood pieces (parts 100 and 118 fore and aft cabin bulkheads).  I replaced part 136 (lengthwise cabin plywood bulkhead) because I needed it ¼ inch wider.  The reason was to add more clearance between the aft bulkhead wall and the companion way opening to allow my custom railing system to be installed.  

 

Yes, I totally ignored the wall treatments (parts/suggestions in the kit) and used my own custom design (basswood wall planking, grid windows, etc).  I also eliminated the door on the fore bulkhead wall that opened into the bilge pipe 

 

See the pictures below that shows the added clearance for the railing system (basically the aft bulkhead was moved to the opposite side of crossbeam number 162, frame 36).

 

 

Note the aft bulkhead is on the opposite side of the crossbeam 162, frame 36 now.  If you look closely at the lower right corner you can see the notch that the builge pipe will fit into (this would block the opening of the door I removed - I discovered this during a trip to the Dark Side) 

 

 

Here is the fore bulkhead wall without the door (upper right hand corner)

Edited November 3, 2015 by thomaslambo

[Dimitris71]

Hello Boyd, Just checking for new updates... The work on pictures above is great!!

 

Cheers

Dimitris

Edited November 3, 2015 by Dimitris71

[Gentlegiant]

Hi Boyd  Thank you for helping me; it was very kind of you!

   I work now on the walls off the second deck your log is very complete.

[thomaslambo]

 

Hello Boyd, Just checking for new updates...   The work on pictures above is great!!

 

Cheers

Dimitris

 

Thanks much for following the build....and your kind words 

 

 

Hi Boyd  Thank you for helping me; it was very kind of you!

   I work now on the walls off the second deck your log is very complete.

 

My pleasure....and I'm glad you're benefiting from my build log    

 

 

 

Also, a big thanks to everyone that clicked the like button 

Edited November 3, 2015 by thomaslambo

[NenadM]

Very nice work. Keep on going !

[thomaslambo]

Very nice work. Keep on going !

 

Hi Nenad,

 

Thanks for the kind words...and in case you missed the original post of the above pictures; here's a link back to page 5 that includes the complete set 

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10059-hms-bounty-by-thomaslambo-artesania-latina-%E2%80%93-scale-148/page-5

Edited November 3, 2015 by thomaslambo

[cobra1951]

Hi Thomas

                 Your build is very neat, excellently done and the extras are a pleasure to look at, hope mine gets somewhere near as good as yours

[thomaslambo]

 

Hi Thomas

                 Your build is very neat, excellently done and the extras are a pleasure to look at, hope mine gets somewhere near as good as yours 

 

Hi Bob,

 

Welcome to the AL Bounty builders club, and judging from you're very clean start I'm sure you'll have a beautiful build.  

 

Thanks for the kind words as well 

 

 

G'day Boyd, she looking quite intricate, nice job your doing,

Best regards John.

 

Hi John,

 

Thanks for stopping back in and I appreciate the compliments 

 

 

 

[Robert29]

Beautiful work. Impressive detail.

[thomaslambo]

It's been over 8 weeks since I made a post on the log...so here comes a major update 

 

Main deck planking – and please forgive my lengthy narrative 

 

 

Before I begin I’d like to thank Chuck and Danny for their inspiring build logs as well as answering a few questions on 18^th Century deck planking.  Also, thanks to Brian (GuntherMT) and Al (Captain Al) for your help and support 

 

 

Now that I’m starting the exterior (highly visible areas) of the ship I’m going to try and improve the quality of my build.

 

As such, I’ve replaced much of the AL kit supplied materials.  This includes the main deck and hull planking material, all the walnut material used for the masts and spars including the pre-cut pieces, the rigging ropes/lines, the cannons and carriages, and the stern lanterns.  

 

 

For starters I purchased Costello Boxwood from Crown Timberyard for the Main Deck.    I wanted harder wood and thicker planks to replace the 1mm soft Basswood that came in the kit.  This will allow me to better simulate methods used on many 18^th century ships.

 

After some reading and several PM conversations with a few of the experienced builders here at MSW….I ended up constructing what I believe is something close to a typical 18^th Century deck. 

 

The deck incorporates a Margin Strake with Scarph joints and commonly used Hook Planks to accommodate the major curves in the Bounty’s deck.

 

I used hand tools for almost all the work completed, with the exception of the curved Bow planks (used my Proxxon Scroll saw to rough cut the pieces from a Boxwood sheet).

 

Boxwood materials used: 5mm x 2mm strips used for the standard planks, 7mm to 10mm x 2mm strips used for the Margin, Waterway Filler and Hook Planks, and 2mm x (approx. 4 inch wide) sheets used for the curved bow sections of the Margin and Filler strakes.  

 

 

Here are the basic steps I took to complete the deck planking along with a few pictures:

 

 

Margin and Waterway Filler Strakes;

 

I began by installing the two outside most strakes, a Waterway Filler strake and the Margin strake.  I created cardboard templates for all the sections on both strakes and fitted them to the false deck.

 

Once I was happy with the template fit I cut the Waterway Filler and Margin strake pieces out of Boxwood strips and sheets. 

 

The Margin strakes have 3 sections on each side (held together with scarph joints), and the Waterway Filler has two planks on each side as it will be covered by a contoured Waterway strake after the deck is completed. 

 

I incorporated Hooked Scarph Joints on the Margin strake as this was standard practice in the 18^th Century.  I first created hardwood templates for making the scarph joints.  This insured both sides of the joints were exactly the same shape.  I simply traced the template onto the plank ends and then cut them out with a razor saw and X-acto knive.  Then I carefully filed the pieces (using jewelers files) until they had a tight fit.

 

Once all the pieces were completed and fitted to my satisfaction I glued them in place (Waterway Filler first, then the Margin snugly up against it).  

 

I then laid out a grid pattern on the ply false deck to keep the planks aligned during installation.  The Port to Starboard lines are used to align the butt joints for the three shift of butts pattern, and the Bow to Stern lines are used to keep the strakes lined up evenly.

 

 

Tools used, Scarph template and rough cut Margin planks with penciled scarph joints ready to be cut out 

 

 

Margin Planks with Scarph joints cut out and ready for install

 

 

Margin and Filler strakes installed

 

 

Grid lines drawn in for planking alignment

 

 

 

 

 

Hook Plank Cutting and Fitting;

 

I calculated how many Hook Planks would be needed in the Bow and Stern (4 in the Bow - 2 on each side, and 12 in the Stern – 6 on each side). 

 

I then cut out cardboard templates for each hook plank.  Note; only 8 templates were needed to create 16 hook planks as the Port and Starboard planks were very close to the same size.

 

I used 10mm strips to cut out all the hook planks (using the template traced lines).  Once they were fitted to my satisfaction on each side I glued them up.

 

 

 

Tools used, and a couple Hook Plank templates with planks ready for cutting. 

 

 

Stern Hook Plank Fitting

 

 

Bow Hook Plank Fitting

 

 

 

 

Lay the Planks with #2B Pencil Simulated Tar lines;

 

I installed the hook and standard planks (24 feet or 6 inches to scale).  I used 5mm x 2mm planks and a couple of 6mm and 7mm planks in the center, which is fairly close to scale for about an 8 to 10 inch wide plank.

 

Note; every single plank laid on the main deck was beveled on at least one edge and many on both edges.  This is due to the curvature across the deck from port to starboard, and also to attain a tight fit between the strakes. 

 

Once the planks were cut and filed/sanded to shape I coated both edges with number 2B pencil (a method I saw in Chuck's build log) and then I glued them down with PVA.  

 

Also, I only glue the planks on the bottom (not on the edges)....as it allows the wood to expand and contract as the temperature and humidity changes        

 

 

 

Stern Hook Planks

 

 

Stern Hook Planks.  Note the wider King Plank in the center, I opted not to make it proud (raised) as it would cause issues with all the deck furniture.  The two planks on either side are wider as well...similar to Binder Planks but they're placed incorrectly (Binder Planks would be just outside the hatchways with no breaks in the strake other than butt joints).

 

 

Scarp Joint in the Margin 

 

 

 

 

Tree Nail Installation;

 

Prior to laying out the Tree Nails I did some fairly heavy sanding with 120, 150, 200 and 400 grit sandpaper to prepare the deck for tree nail installation and finishing.   

 

I proceeded to carefully lay out the nail pattern on the deck with pencil and a ruler (holding the ruler in place with masking tape).  After I was satisfied with the pattern I used a sharp punch to set a very small starter hole for each tree nail.  Using a hand pen vice drill I then drilled over 600 holes (with a 0.64mm drill bit).

 

Final preparation was to remove any residue in the holes and then very slightly reaming the top of the hole with an Awl to clean up any ragged/fuzzy edges at the top of the holes.

 

Once I was ready to fill the holes I took great care to use as little filler as possible to fill the holes...trying to avoid getting the filler in between the planks.  

 

Then a bit of sanding with 400 grit to remove the excess filler.  Followed by a nice rub down with a clean cloth to prepare the surface for the Teak Oil (two coats did the job nicely).

 

 

Tools and material used for Tree Nails.  The X-acto makes a great putty knife.

 

 

Tree Nails Marked

 

 

Tree Nail Holes....Drilling begins on over 600 holes (note fuzzy edges on hole rims that need to be removed)

 

 

 

 

Tree Nail Method Selection;

 

I spent considerable time testing two different types of tree nail methods; 1) drilled holes filled with wood filler,  and 2) bamboo tree nails (using my Byrnes draw plate) stained and pressed into drilled holes.

 

I went with Chuck’s wood filler approach after testing 8 different colors.  I ended up using Elmer’s Golden Oak filler.  Reason I choose this method; to me the wood filler approach looks more subtle then the tree nail method….I just like the look better.  

 

Interesting to note that depending on the wood finish you’re using it can have a profound impact on the final color of any given wood filler.  I spent hours messing around with several finishes and different wood filler colors until I came up with the color I liked.

 

I ended up using my personal favorite wood treatment Teak Oil combined with Golden Oak wood filler.  Note, I was leaning toward Maple until I used the Teak Oil on the Golden Oak, it darkened it up to exactly what I was looking for.

 

 

 

Boxwood Un-treated (no finish) 

 

 

Boxwood Treated (with Teak Oil on left and Poly on the right)

 

 

Two favorite filler colors (Golden Oak and Maple) finished with Teak Oil

 

 

 

Here is the finished Deck Planking 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 12, 2016 by thomaslambo

[CaptainSteve]

Wow !! That is some mighty fine planking there, Boyd !!!

[toms10]

What an awesome job on the planking. Top notch all the way.  I will tuck this one away for future reference.

Tom

[Gentlegiant]

This is realy fantastic you are a great modelist

[hof00]

Hi Boyd,

A truly Awesome job there Chap!!

Like the use of Teak Oil.

Reckon I'll be using the 2B pencil in the future.

 

Cheers....HOF.

[AntonyUK]

Hi Boyd.

That's a master piece of deck planking..

With a Exelent discription on how you did it...

Was waiting on your next post and it arrives at Christmas ... Nice gift.

Totally Exelent modeling skills.

 

Regards Antony.

[Capt.Fisher]

Great Mate! Your enthusiasm might take me back on board, after almost 2 years of "creative silence"! My hands start itching and I am now seriously thinking of taking Her body out of the dust and restoring work on her.

Pity I did not pay as much attention on decking as you did... 

Great job, keep on!

[cobra1951]

Absolutely Superb!!! planking

[mattsayers148]

Incredible planking Boyd! The wait for your update was well worth it. Your bar is reaching Olympic proportions my friend.