RMS Titanic by popeye the sailor - Academy - PLASTIC - 1/400 scale

[BenF89]

G'day Denis

The kit looks quite detailed. Are there two figures for the bow of Leonardo and Kate with there arms open out?

Havagooday

Greg

 

Geez Dennis, you can't catch a break with these star-studded sunken ships, can you?

[riverboat]

Have fun with your new project Denis.......( I'm sure you will )... I've done a couple Academy !/25th scale armor kits, they were nicely detailed.. I see most of the seats are taken back there, so I'll just sit back here in Calif. and follow you on my computer. ..

 

Frank

[popeye the sailor]

I have the movie Greg.........haven't sat through it in a while though  {I'm mostly a horror nut}

 

 

no I can't Ben.......guess I know how to pick 'em 

 

thanks Frank...I browsed through their kits..........besides cornering the market on the Titanic,  they have some armor kits that involve P.E. and special effects.

     I know you haven't been feeling yourself of late........do whatever you need to to get comfy.  I'm glad your here 

[Old Collingwood]

Hey  - a great subject and in my fave old medium plastic     A man walks into a Bar  and goes "Ouch"  it was a metal bar.......

 

I too am trying to make plastic look like metal its a bit different from making wood look like "ermmmm" ...wood

 

Anyway can i join in the watching please, i am rubbish in a group to shy, but if its ok i will sit i n the wings and watch.

 

Oh yes nearly foregot - i used to build Accurate Armour resin 35scale tanks from Tiger to Warrior IFV.

 

OC.

[Force9]

Ahoy Popeye!

 

I will also elbow my way thru the crowd to watch...

 

I have the Commemerative edition of this kit that includes Pontos PE and decking.  I don't think it is the most accurate version of the Titanic, but it is certainly representative  of the great ship.  I'm not a Titanic fanatic so I'm not counting missing port holes and worrying about much minutiae, but I did take the trouble to add the openings on the forecastle and stern decks.  I also put some edging around the stern to help support the PE railings

 

 

I didn't like the fit of the deck towards the bow so I scraped off the kit's molded ledge and replaced it with my own styrene version to help the deck sit even.

 

 

Otherwise, I really like the fit and finish and have found it to be a terrific kit.

 

Unfortunately, this is about as far as I've gotten, so I'll look to you for guidance going forward.

 

Good stuff!

Evan

[dragzz]

well popeye looks like u are off to a good start iam going to pull up a chair as well lol

[popeye the sailor]

thanks O.C.  and Dragzz.........welcome to the group!!  with as many folks who have chimed in........I can definitely call us that!   

 

thanks Evan.......Academy has around six or seven offering of this model....I must have the basic kit.   I'm not sure yet concerning changes to the kit itself,  but yea.......I think the fore and aft railings really could use some P.E.   anyway.....it will be a while before I get to that point.   thanks for the pictures......I did some dry fits with these areas,  and yea,  they fit a little weird......perhaps I may follow a similar route.  I still have some checking to do.......I'm not looking for perfection,  but I want it to look good without breaking the bank.  glad to have you following along.......not sure if I can shed any light {after seeing what your doing with the Connie},  but if you see anything....feel free      I see you have the wood decking too........I'm jealous 

[Sjors]

So here you are !!!!!!

 

The door was open so I drop inn.

Nice to see an BIG plastic build.....

No bashing this time ???

And you don't mind that I put a popcorn machine in the corner.

I just LOVE popcorn !

 

Sjors

[NenadM]

Ok, Denis, think that chat time is over and work time starts .... I am so inpatient !

[popeye the sailor]

thanks Sjors.........I'm sure there are some with the munchies right about now    glad to have you following along

 

you are right Nenad.........I have been chained to this computer long enough!   all my logs are written {except for the Titanic...I still have to start it},  all the gallery pictures are posted.........it's time I got around to some playtime     I have a couple of pictures,  but I will compile a few more before I update again.

[popeye the sailor]

well.....now that I've caught myself up somewhat.........Andrea's in the gallery,  along with the Lobsie Twins {which was way overdue}........closing logs are done on Word Press {haven't done the Titanic yet.....don't want to wait too long and have them pile up on me}....I can now settle down a little {still have the lawns to mow though} 

 

 

so far,  the only paint I've used is deck tan.......I did all the decks with it {I'm still jealous Evan  }  at the moment,  I'm going to assemble the structures between the decks,  and paint them flat white,  after cleaning up all the joints.

 

 

once assembled I'll try to keep them separate......but with them at this point,  it won't be too hard to see where they go.  I took the stand parts and have them sitting an a container full of brake fluid.  this is the old school method of removing chrome.

 

 

now we wait.........  in the meantime,  I'll share this with you.   I'm a bit of a hound as well......I'm forever curious as to when a kit is produced.  I noticed that on the instruction manual,  it has a copyright date of 2012.   but,  that doesn't tell me when the molds were made......so I looked through the parts.  in the case of the Revell Cutty Sark 1:96,  the date stamp can be found on one of the deck sections.......on the top,  of all places {if I remember right}.  with this kit,  I found it on the flip side of the sprue sheet tabs......1998.  the sprues are stamped from Korea.....the hull is stamped from the Philippines....... another bit of trivia.    so........these parts were put in the brake fluid.  they've been in there for over three days.   now they look like this.

 

 

it's looking like it's time to take them out.......it doesn't hurt the plastic at all.   during this time also,  I've been working on the deck structures.   I will assemble them and paint them after with an airbrush.

 

 

 

this is the bridge deck.  the parts fit in a very narrow impression in the deck.   there are tabs that need to be fitted....a few of them are very tight.....I've had to open them up a bit more to accept them.   these are the parts that Evan was referring to....the fore and aft railings.  I'm not impressed with them.......the railings are molded solid with no slotting at all to depict them.   I want to do something to make this bit of detail come out.

 

 

the next thing I did was to cement the screw tunnels to the hull.   the paint was sanded off and they were installed.  After the rest of the hull seam is cleaned up,  the bottom paint will be redone

 

 

new spelling for the word thread?

 

 

this is the A deck.  this structure goes almost the entire length of the deck.   the clothes pins you see on there are merely for support.  these decks are so flimsy.

 

 

I only painted the deck areas on these deck parts.........I'm curious to see what color the floors were inside the structures.

    you can't see much,  but the inside is still visible to a degree.

[cog]

Brake fluid ... Ah well, another tip to store ... So you've been at it for three days already laddy ...

[popeye the sailor]

the stand parts have been in the brake fluid now,  for four days.   I woke up this morning at the crack of dawn.  after turning on the coffee maker,  I set to work.   one of the worse feeling I dislike,  is the feel of brake fluid .........antifreeze is second on my list.  I have rubber gloves.......and got one of the plastic grocery bags.  it's the best way to shield your surroundings from brake fluid ,  while your cleaning the parts.  I use a wire brush....I even have a stiff nylon brush,  if the chrome is old enough.

 

it depends on the age of the kit........I've done this to older car kits and the chrome comes off much more quickly and easily,  than if it was a newer kit.  chrome is not a forever process......it will peel off over time.   as it ages,  it begins to lose it's bond on the plastic........I've had cars on my shelf......some as long as ten years {if they survive that long before I get sick of them}, where the chrome had started to bubble up and crack.  it also depends on the process use by the manufacturer.  as mentioned,  ships usually do not have chrome parts.   I'll do the rest later.   after the parts were scrubbed with the brush,  they were put in a soapy solution...I make it kinda strong,  to cut the brake fluid quickly,  and to be sure they are cleaned thoroughly.

 

 

Academy uses a good process......they were kinda tough to clean.   I keep everything in the confines of the plastic bag brush strokes are away from me....any spattering will fly toward the bottom of the bag {and not at me}.   the brushes are cleaned after the parts are done.   cleaned and rinsed,  they were set on a thick bed of paper towel to dry them off.

 

 

I will go over them later with some fine sand paper....not that they are rough,  but there is still a little bit of chrome still on them.   it should come off easy at this point......and even if you paint over it,  I don't believe it will matter.  the other parts were removed from the chrome sprue.  that boat thing......I probably won't even use,  but the next items to go in the container,  are the anchors,  the props,  and believe it or not......the ship's wheel {that small part near the stand parts}.

 

 

the name plaque will need a larger tray to lay in.   it might need to stay in there longer,  but that's OK,  I don't need it right away.   the other parts were trimmed of sprue,  sanded smooth and tossed in.  again,  never put this container directly on the table........not good if this stuff contaminates the work area.   I have it on a damp paper towel.....it won't soak through,  it repels water 

 

 

I'm still not completely convinced that I can do lighting ,  but I will proceed like I can.   I need to drill the holes in the stand,  since I will be using the stand that came with the kit.   this will be my first pedestal stand.

 

 

I do want to drill the holes as close to center as I can.......I will use the base of the pedestals to do this.

 

 

once the holes were scored,  the pieces were removed and the holes were drilled the rest of the way

 

 

the pedestal parts were assembled,  since they will be the same color.

 

 

these parts will have the joint lines sanded smooth and then I can drill the holes in them as well........bottom up through the top.......

 

 

 

 

[cog]

So we learn ... plastic needs more versatility, and knowledge than expected. Nice work Popeye!!!

[popeye the sailor]

the parts have....yes.   I have been at work....didn't get to do anything with the build till last night.   if this was an older kit,  the process would have taken only hours......perhaps overnight.   I don't know of anyone who has painted over chrome,  and was happy enough to tell about it.  over time the paint would crack and peel.  on this particular kit,  the chroming process is still fresh.  the bonding agent hasn't had time to break down to any degree.

 

felt good to play a little with the kit.  once I can get a conga line going on the paint work,  it will pick up some speed.   right now,  it's just preliminary work 

 

thanks for looking in Carl ! 

[popeye the sailor]

hard to really nail down the differences........the most obvious difference is that most parts are already formed and shaped.   they can be altered,  if you plan on embellishments or bashing.   most of the detail is already there.......paint enhances and defines,  and then assembly can occur.   a plastic can be assembled quicker,  but only if your doing an out of the box build,  or your not concerned with any inaccuracies.  if you like to play.......you can spend just as much time on a plastic kit,  as you can a wooden one.   there are aftermarket enhancements that can be bought that will bring out additional detail.   to sum it up.........twenty to thirty years ago......I'd say that plastic is the quicker medium.............today,  I'd say that the playing field is pretty level.   it all boils down to what you want to do to your model.  the younger crowd would have a field day,  as opposed to what we had when we were their age.   I still remember the kits that didn't have a rivet on it.......seeing a kit like that would have me strolling down memory lane   

[augie]

Thanks for taking the time to explain what you're doing here --- and why.  Brake fluid is not bad.  I sometimes need to free up a corroded model airplane engine and do that with antifreeze in the Admiral's crock pot.  Makes the pot roast taste better 

 

Are you doing all of your painting with an airbrush?  Deck looks terrific.

[GLakie]

You're off to a great start Dennis!  I know exactly what you mean about contaminating your work area with the brake-fluid. When I started painting cars, I found out early on, that things like that, and even just opening a tube of silicone gasket putty in the same room, will cause fish-eye and the paint won't stick properly. Thanks for pointing out all those little details that most of us would probably over-look. 

 

Cheers

[Jack12477]

Dennis, looking good !  Thanks for the trip down memory lane on the plastic kit building of old !   Remember it well. Never tried the brake fluid "trick".

[NenadM]

Opening moves !

Chees game Denis VS Titanic starts. Oil opening, new in game theory

Edited May 20, 2015 by Nenad

[popeye the sailor]

thanks Augie......yea,  taking a stroll down memory lane.  I actually shocked the admiral.......she wasn't bugging me to do it,  I just brought it out and started playing with it.  brake fluid will free up rusted parts......Marvels Mystery oil works well too.

 

thanks George......I always looking out for the contaminates......it's the temperature......always tend to think I can squeeze something past mother nature.  I'm sure a lot of folks know the tips I may give.......I want to add them for the folks who are just starting out.

 

thanks Crackers......I don't think this build will shadow the A.G.     but I will try to make it fun     spent a good part of the noon hour today,  checking out sites that give information on the color scheme.......I have a small list put together.   it won't be exact,  but it will be darn close.   thanks for the good word!

 

thanks Jack......I hope everything comes back to me quickly       thanks for the good word

 

if anyone wants to take their own trip down memory lane.....check out this site.   some of you may already know it.

 

Old Plastic Model Kits: model airplane kits, Revell, Monogram, Aurora

[cdogg]

Nice job Popeye.  I am in the middle of building the Revell version, I am trying to figure the best way to get that gold/yellow strip on the side.  It is much harder than I thought, I need to make it like 1mm all the way across

[popeye the sailor]

thanks Nenad.........it was nice to get a little done last night     today was small gains.........had to mow the front lawn and keep Gibbs happy.  I did manage to paint a couple more parts and assemble a small section of the boat deck structure.  count on an update tomorrow 

[GLakie]

thanks Augie......yea,  taking a stroll down memory lane.  I actually shocked the admiral.......she wasn't bugging me to do it,  I just brought it out and started playing with it.  brake fluid will free up rusted parts......Marvels Mystery oil works well too.

 

thanks George......I always looking out for the contaminates......it's the temperature......always tend to think I can squeeze something past mother nature.  I'm sure a lot of folks know the tips I may give.......I want to add them for the folks who are just starting out.

 

thanks Crackers......I don't think this build will shadow the A.G.     but I will try to make it fun     spent a good part of the noon hour today,  checking out sites that give information on the color scheme.......I have a small list put together.   it won't be exact,  but it will be darn close.   thanks for the good word!

 

thanks Jack......I hope everything comes back to me quickly       thanks for the good word

 

if anyone wants to take their own trip down memory lane.....check out this site.   some of you may already know it.

 

Old Plastic Model Kits: model airplane kits, Revell, Monogram, Aurora

I actually didn't know about the brake-fluid and loosening chrome thing myself, just the contaminating the paint-space. 

[Omega1234]

Hi Dennis

 

I missed the fact that you'd started this build log, so I'm very late to the party. Hope there's a spare porthole for me to view your progress!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

[popeye the sailor]

http://titanic-model.com/paint/

 

hello casey

 

what scale is the Revell version?   you'll notice on this site,  they deal quite a bit with the Minicraft 1:144 kit.  I've done a few Minicraft kits....really wasn't that fond of them.   go into the TRMA forum {you'll see the link}.   the color that is this stripe {as well as the funnels} is called White Star Buff.....the site can go into more detail about it.   they have color conversion charts,  and if your into mixing paints,  they supply formulas as well.

 

thanks for looking in...........do you have a build log going at the moment?

Edited May 21, 2015 by popeye the sailor

[popeye the sailor]

actually,  your just in time.........I'm just getting going     I was doing a little research.......found the site listed above.  glad to have you looking in Patrick.

[Jim Lad]

She's already well under way, Popeye!

 

Can I ask why you're painting the wooden decks tan?

 

John

[popeye the sailor]

hi there John    the instruction color chart lists a deck tan for the decking...I was actually searching around today to see what color would be used inside the structures.  the site listed above,  gives a different color,  as well as formulas to mix a proper color.  they list a gloss color...which I wouldn't use in a million years......but the color is called 'sand'.   that is what I used,  and it's a flat.   sad to say,  but the bottle is almost empty.  I used it for something,  because I had added thinner to it,  and it gave me the impression that it was drying out.   so,  I added the suspension from another flat tan color {it had separated}.  now I have semi gloss patches on the boat deck.

 

the site states that yellow pine was used for the main parts of the decking.  teak was used along the edges of the structures and the bulwarks.  I'm not going to go into that much detail with it,  but it's looking like I'm going to be repainting the decks.   the fore deck, the poop deck and the well deck was done in pitch pine,  which is a bit stronger,  and probably a shade or two darker.   Teak was used much later for deck planking.

 

I have a small list of paints........one more paint got added to the list.   is there a color you might suggest?  thanks for the good word 

[GLakie]

Was just boring around the web Dennis, and found this Titanic paint reference for modelers. You've probably already seen it, but just in case:  http://titanic-model.com/paint/