Jim Byrnes Model Machines

[harvey1847]

Happy Brirhtday Jim! Still saving money to buy your famous plate for Christmas!!

 

have a Good day!

 

 

Daniel.

[WackoWolf]

Happy Birthday Jim. And may the Machine keep on Working.

[gjdale]

Happy Birthday Jim! Hope you spent the the day relaxing and doing something for yourself, instead of all of us demanding customers!

[dgbot]

Happy Birthday Jim! Hope you spent the the day relaxing and doing something for yourself, instead of all of us demanding customers! 

I agree with the above sentiment totally.  Happy Birthday.

David B

[jimbyr]

Thanks guys, appreciate it

 

Jim

[druxey]

Donna and Jim: you both make a great team! Thanks again for the service and machines that you provide us with. And if you're embarrassed, so be it.

[Jay 1]

Happy Birthday, Jim--wishing you and Donna a wonderful day of celebration!

 

Jay

[Geoff Matson]

Happy birthday Jim and continued success

[BANYAN]

Is anyone else having problems with thier ropewalk?  I have not used mine for about 6 months and went to use it recently and it appears the belts have gone again!!!!!!!  nothing I do (and I have tried everything)  makes the ropes set.  As soon as I stop the machine it starts to unwind.  By the time I have taken it off the winding spool it has already unravelled.  it appears that the belt that drives the bobbins does not have enough tension to keep them spinning!

 

I am so frustrated as this is the second belt now - if this is the problem it seems they justy stretch way too easily!!!!

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited December 14, 2013 by BANYAN

[jud]

Have used belt dressing on slipping belts on farm equipment, comes in a spray can. What I would probably do is obtain a belt that fits loose, put together an idler pulley that is spring tensioned and use it only when using the ropewalk, since it is spring loaded, remove the belt from the idler for storage. The spring tensioned idler would maintain tension on the belt even if the belt expanded from heat or stretch when in use. Should not be difficult to fabricate such an idler.

jud

[BANYAN]

Thanks Jud, appreciate the feed back and I think is probably the only real way to get sufficient tension.  Having rubber belts doesn't help; I'll see what Jim comes up with.  This shouldn't happen and I hope he can come up with a solution.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[cabrapente]

today is the first time I hear about tools Donna and Jim.

after reading the comments from happy customers, I hope to acquire Thickness Sander. I think the price of transport to Seville (Spain) will be worth it.

greetings and happy birthday.

cabrapente

[Ulises Victoria]

Thanks Jud, appreciate the feed back and I think is probably the only real way to get sufficient tension.  Having rubber belts doesn't help; I'll see what Jim comes up with.  This shouldn't happen and I hope he can come up with a solution.

 

cheers

 

Pat

I changed the large belt once a few months ago, and the new belt is already developing cracks. I tried to make some rope this morning, but it came out too lumpy. Not sure if its because of the belts or something else.

[BANYAN]

I have got mine up and running now (finger problems - I was not holding the tension wheel at the right time) - I wish there was a way to secure this  - tried the rubber band trick you mentioned but it kept slipping  - will need to try a better/stronger rubber band.  You really need one hand free and without a motorised take-up spool it just makes it too hard to control speed etc. 

 

I am now making rope but having the same issue as you mention, it appears lumpy.  The made-up scale rope does improve if I stretch it, but shouldn't have to

 

I also think the belt is a bit loose; this is the same problem I had in the first instance when I had to return it to Jim for checking and it proved to be the belt being loose -  made beautiful rope straight up after he returned it, but now.  I really do think the belts are suspect as my main drive belt is severely cracked and looked perished, and my new belt on the spool pulleys is already starting to show some perishing (and I have had it stored away under cover). The new belt seems quite loose again, I can push it all the way back to the hub centre with very little fingertip pressure.

I am waiting for Jim to return and see if he can provide the appropriate data for the belts and I think I am going to try those 'green' (felt or leather?) belts that drive the small mills and lathes used by Jewellers.  They seem to be much better quality.  These rubber ones are hopeless!

[Ulises Victoria]

Banyan: Could you please post any new information on this subject that you find or get?

Really appreciate it.

[BANYAN]

No problem at all.  This is a well machined ropewalk and when the belts are tight makes very nice LH rope (still experimenting on RH) using a very small footprint - its a pity these belt issues are arising (well for me anyway).  I don't want to pull it apart to measure the belts at the moment as I am trying to make the LH (cable) laid shrouds and stays at the moment.  I have tired with shroud laid (fourth rope through body from the spool behind) but the lay just not sit very well - early days though and could be partly related to the loose belt.

 

I would put up pictures but it is hard to show the detail of the issue.  In appearance my rope looks like one of the strands sits slightly proud of the other two which is what makes it look lumpy; then every so often a small kink n one of the strands appears (like a small crows foot,  I am now making smaller lengths (about 1.5 to 2 m max) which when I stretch to set it and take the elasticity out, settles the lay and it is acceptable to work with.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Ulises Victoria]

Update

I tried to make some rope these last few days. I needed 2 strand rope, (two threads in each spool) which I have made before without problems. This time, I made about half spool of rope and I don't think any part of it is usable. There is un-even portions everywhere. When I turn the big wheel by hand very slowly, it feels it moves in steps, with a little continuous bump every second. I took off the main belt and turned by hand the rod that comes out of the motor and drives the wheel. It felt exactly the same way, so that unevenness comes from the motor. The motor does not spins smoothly. I even disassembled the motor and lubricated the bearings with DW40. Nothing changed. So my conclusion is: I need a new motor. 

Lets see what Jim has to say about this. I know he is a very reasonable man.

Edited December 27, 2013 by Ulises Victoria

[jimbyr]

Ulises

 

The motor is a DC motor and does not spin freely like an AC motor does.  When you turn the shaft by hand you should feel steps,  that's normal. But if you think there is something wrong with it you can send it back and I'll replace it if it's bad. As far as 2 strand rope goes I have never tried to make it on the machine and I don't think it will because of the head configuration.  To make 2 strand you would have to have 2 of the whirls directly across from each other. Did you wind the 2 strand on the machine the first time?

 

Jim 

[Jaxboat]

Sounds like you have a wonderful business and life partner.

Happy New Year

Jaxboat

[Ulises Victoria]

Jim. First of all, I wish you a very Happy New Year and thanks for your answer. I did not know that DC motors turned in steps. So then the motor is OK. Lesson learned.

 

Jim: The way I make heavier rope is by using 2, 3, 4, strands per spool. I have made up to 7 strands in your machine with very satisfactory results.

 

I am uncertain then why now I can't have good rope out of 2 stranded spools. May it be the cracked belt?

 

Are your belts "belts" or very large O'Rings? A friend of mine told me of a place where I could get O'Rings of very large sizes. I'm wondering if they may work?

 

Edit: Last two photos show the 2 stranded rope I made before, and lately.

 

 

Edited December 28, 2013 by Ulises Victoria

[jimbyr]

Ulises

 

2 strands per spool is fine.  I thought you were trying to wind it just using 2 spools.  They are O rings, not belts.  If the main drive belt is cracking and or slipping it won't affect the finished rope.  If the belts inside the head are it will

 

Jim 

[Ulises Victoria]

Thank you Jim. Sorry I have another question. Can some type of "dressing" be used to prevent slipping of the O rings? Something like described in post #121 above? Your last answer makes me think the problem may be in the inner belts.

Edited December 28, 2013 by Ulises Victoria

[BANYAN]

Hi Jim and Ulisis,  firstly I hope all had a great Christmas.

 

Jim, thanks for looking in over your break - much appreciate the feedback to Ulisis as it helps me isolate my issues also.

 

Ulisis, the looks of your rope is very similar to this the problems I experienced and described when I had a loose inner belt.  Mine is starting to go that way again and the 'o-ring' on mine is relatively new (replacement). 

 

Jim, mine is still creating rope that I can use but I have to select parts of it and stretch it (a lot) after making to remove the bumps Ulisis reports.  To my non-mechanical mind, it appears to be the belts slipping again as when looking closely at the rope, it seems to be one strand that stands proud of the others (as if not the same amount of tension is applied.  I have checked and isolated spool winding as I have a rig set up now to supply the right amount of tension evenly to all spools as they are wound.

 

Would a leather belt work in lieu of an o-ring on the inner pulleys or do you need a certain amount of flexibility so as not to overstress the mechanism?

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Ulises Victoria]

Update:

I ran out of ropes to finish the shrouds on my Vasa, so there was no option: I HAD to make some more rope. So I took my regular dark brown thread and partially loaded 3 spools with 2 strands each of thread. This time I put more attention on the tension at which I loaded the threads in the spools. Then I started the machine at 0 speed and crank it up just a bit. The rope came out very nice and even. I was very pleasantly surprised! With this successful attempt,  next day I went to make the light tan thread I tried to make a few days ago with no success.(Post # 129 above) I did the same things about the tension and the speed, and this time I got a more than acceptable 6 strands light beige rope.

I'm posting this only because I think is the right thing to do to give Jim's machine it's credit back.

My guess is that the number one problem was speed. I have not changed belts or put belt dressing... yet.

FWIW.

 

Best regards.

Edited January 7, 2014 by Ulises Victoria

[Keith_W]

Well I finally bit the bullet and ordered the Byrnes disc sander. There seems to be precious little information on these things, or even how they work. Perhaps Jim should consider making the manuals available online, and making some Youtube videos on what you can do with these machines. 

[Mahuna]

Congratulations on ordering an excellent sander.  When you see it you'll be pleased at how simple and precise it is.  I don't think you'll need more instructions than what comes with it - the instructions mostly cover how to change the sanding disc.

 

Frank

[gjdale]

Congratulations Keith. You are going to love this machine. Frank is right, you won't need any more instructions than what it comes with. I guarantee this will become one of your all time favourite tools.

[Keith_W]

For sure. However, I honestly do not know WHY I bought the Byrnes sander when I could have gone to the shops and brought a Proxxon home with me the same day and save on the exorbitant shipping cost (no fault of Jim Byrnes). I suppose it is the reputation of the Byrnes machines that tipped the decision for me. It would help if there was more information available on what features make the Byrnes machine special. I suppose i'll find out when I get it. 

[rtropp]

I have some proxxon equipment including sander, scroll saw and wood lathe. . I also have the small micromark mill that is now discontued. They do a pretty good job especially for a beginner.

I bought the byrnes table saw based on the comments on this site. I was not disappointed. The biggest differences are precision and durability.

The components are designed to trovide a high degree if precision, higher than other hobby tools. The materials and their weight also add to the precision by providing a very stable work platform. The materials are high grade metals and I expect them to last longer than I will.

I wouldn't necessarily get rid of my proxxon sander but if it bit the dust, I would replace it with Byrnes equipment

Richard

[janet bode]

I bought the PROXEN table saw with micro adjustment, it turned out to be awful and inacurate,it cost me £335 and its mostly plastic.I think PROXEN are o-k

 

for sawing but for repetable accuracy not so good. I own Jim Byrnes table saw and its a beutifull peice of workmanship, i bought with micrometer setting and its

 

exact every time i use it. Since then i bought Jims sanding m/c and the draw plate,i have a plate made in India so i use it to rough prior to  using Jims plate,

 

 all of Jims m/c /s are made of metal.    Just a thought as get older and find i may have to sell my Jim Byrens i thought perhaps some sort of register kept

 

on MSW private register so m/c would go ship modellers and not to the tool traders who buy anything and do not appreciate the  true value.

 

                                         Regards Janet B