USS Constitution by xken - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76.8

[xken]

I finished up the head structures to be able to develop the curve for the rails and glued them in place. First I glued the gratings together using Carpenters glue glued the heads to the grating and when fitting the forward joint was cut and broke to match rail and then joint re-glued.

 

Then using the support bracket patterns to make the sets of brackets needed. I used a French Curve for clean lines to saw to.

 

Brackets were then added and fitted with gaps being filled. Gaps are unavoidable but are easily filled for strong joints. Note adjust the top locations of the support brackets to align with the joints in the grating which also set the location for the grating support beams.

 

Once the support brackets are set the cross beams were added at the top of the brackets aligning with the joints of the grating. Note that the beams were painted black before gluing in place. Next came the plank stiffeners using 1/16" x 3/32" strips which required a bit of patience to cut and fit to each location. The angle of the stiffeners is established using the last support bracket and then the rest are added parallel to the first and flush to the inside edges of the rails. 

 

Next to decide whether to add netting and paint before adding the planking to the stiffeners.

 

 

 

 

[JSGerson]

You did a beautiful job on the seats and gratings. When the time comes, I hope mine will even approach what you accomplished. Out of curiosity, if you look at the second photo in post 296, the grating surfaces appear above the level of the rail because you can't see where the stiffeners meet the rail. In your last image, the grating tops are flush with the rail. Was this deliberate? I don't mean to deride what you've done, like I said, I'd be very happy, no, proud to approach your level of craftsmanship.

 

When do you plan on installing the bowsprit? I'm thinking about the gammoning that will be required and it looks like it getting a bit confined in that area. I ran into that problem with my Rattlesnake.

 

Beautiful, just beautiful

 

Jon

[xken]

Jon, that was one of those forest versus tree issues; I was so focused on getting the curve and grating to match and just plain forgot to offset the grating and did not realize the errors of my way until the next day when setting the stiffeners. Of course I used an ample amount of CA and trying to fix it would just destroy the grates. A learning experience for others to benefit from; at least I was consistent.

 

As for the bowsprit I have ample room right now and the question I am now trying to sort out is whether to used rope or chain.

 

I consider myself still a novice at ship building and am learning everyday; but I am now wondering about the kit being dated as 1797 and being drawn with a fiddle head instead of a figurehead per the original ship. I think the fiddle head came about after someone chopped off Andrew Jackson's head in 1851. Hopefully some one can clarify this because I am starting to think that the plans are a combination of different period configurations. 

[mtaylor]

Ken,

I recall reading somewhere... (one of Frolick's posts on one of the old Constitution topics maybe?)  ah... found some...   The original figurehead was lost on the first voyage.  The Jackson figurehead was added in 1830.

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8550-researching-a-constitution-build/?p=254255

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3272-the-two-possible-sterns-of-the-frigate-essex/?p=93243

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10406-old-ironsides-is-getting-a-makeover/?p=321003

 

I hope this helps.

[JSGerson]

I always thought the MS kit plans were based on the 1926 restoration (I haven't done much research to confirm that) ,hence the fiddle head. Another example, is the model's high waist, a 1926 addition. The last restoration prior, to the current one, restored the lower waist. Nobody really knows what the transom looked like 1797. The fact that the box says 1797 just means that's when it was first commissioned.

 

Jon

Edited April 29, 2016 by JSGerson

[xken]

Jon, thanks for the clarification, it looks like there were many reworks over the years. Also in the plan images above in one there are 8 stiffeners and another has 9. One drawing must be for revisions.

[xken]

Once the stiffeners glue was set they were trimmed to 1/64" top and bottom on the outside to receive the head planks. I then used my old CAD system to develop patterns for planking.

 

 

 

 

Next I created the pattern for the netting frame to carry the tiny nylon netting I had stashed away years ago for some future use. Nothing glues to nylon so the perimeter frame is a carrier to trap with Carpenter glue.

 

 

 

 

Reached a milestone with the head area completed except for a couple of cleats I need to make and add to one of the stiffeners.

 

 

Next to make cleats and do some testing on how to do the white trim.

 

[xken]

After exploring various alternatives to doing the bow stripes I fell back on my WWI airplane building experiences and went looking for my stock of Midwest Scale Lumber. Of course I was out of the item I needed #8000 (.020" x .020" x 11") checked on their website to order and the item is "Temporarily Out of Stock" so I inquired by email when it would be available again. In checking I found item #8002 which is .0208" x .0416" and I had 5 pieces; so I split them down the middle cutting them in half. One TIP here is to wet with water the strips before cutting with water on finger tips no need to soak. This avoids brittleness and breaking. Next I carefully sanded the cut edges and painted them with 50/50 mix of White paint and alcohol sanding between coats until smooth, no primer. This mix penetrates the wood and the alcohol makes the wood more limber for bending. However, to really bend the curves once the paint was set I cut the ends and set the cut ends in a tray of water to let the water wick up the end grain of the wood. Only wet ends for only 10-15 minutes based on kit paint; too long will delaminate the paint. 

 

To form the bends I used wood dowels working from large to small and formed with the cut edge to be the contact glued edge. I started at the cathead end and worked from top to bottom using a rigging tool to assure forming, contact and edge alignment and allow the spring in the wood to form the curves as well. Do not press the wet wood too hard with the tool or you will dent. Using CA do not let fingers come in contact use the tool and move the tool slightly while glue is setting. Only add the CA when you are happy with the fit; at this size you have only one shot. Also when starting and ending allow overhang and slowly and carefully using the tool bend the corners over on the ends.

 

Since I ran out of strip stock I worked both sides to the same point. Hopefully, I will hear back from Midwest tomorrow. 

 

Here are some images that hopefully explain the process as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Note the ends are bent over the ends at the cathead and hawse plate.

 

 

Now to see if I can carefully cut some strips from the ample supply of #8003 .0208" x .0625" x 11" to finish up the stripes.

[kurtvd19]

Ken:

Great work and good tips. 

Please don't hold your breath waiting for a response from Midwest as I think with their past record you will turn blue long before you hear from them.   I want to be sure you make it to the San Diego Conference!

Kurt

[JSGerson]

 

 

After exploring various alternatives to doing the bow stripes I fell back on my WWI airplane building experiences and went looking for my stock of Midwest Scale Lumber.

Beautiful work!

 

You stated that you explored "various alternatives" for the bow stripes and decided to use wood strips. In a number of other build logs, the modelers (e.g., Robert Hunt's practicum) used white polystyrene in lieu of wood, I assume for the flexibility of the pre-colored white plastic. On the surface it seems plastic would have been the obvious choice. I rather like your choice of wood, but what were your reasons for rejecting the plastic (assuming you considered this)? What other methods did you reject?

 

Jon

[xken]

Jon, I have years of experience working with every plastic known to mankind while I worked at Rubbermaid in product and business development. Polystyrene will yellow overtime when exposed to UV light from the sun, even ambient light in a room or from florescent light bulbs. It is at times a challenge to form as a flat or half round when gluing with CA and should be cleaned with acetone to remove residual mold release used in the extrusion dies. Chartpak tape is also used and comes in very small sizes and is basically a colored vinyl tape and should be CA'd once in place. This is real old school stuff. Free hand painting was out of the question at this scale.

[JSGerson]

I'm convinced. When it comes time for me on this future build, wood it is. Typically, I'm not a big fan of Basswood (Midwest) and prefer Boxwood due to cleaner surface and cuts (less fuzzys). Can this be done in Boxwood which might be a little less flexible, I don't know)? I've got a Byrnes Saw and can make real fine strips if need be.

[xken]

Kurt, thanks for the feedback! What do you know about Northeastern Scale Lumber? I have cross referenced and found item # HOSCAL2211 which is HO scale 2x2 basswood, no dimensions on site. 14 pcs per pack at $3.65.

 

Jon, I have not used Boxwwod so you may just have to experiment on it's flexibility when wet.

[kurtvd19]

Ken:

The NSL stuff I have used has been top notch.  Have a bunch in the shop and use it regularly - have not bought any recently but stock is going down.

Maybe Midwest will surprise me and answer your inquiry.

Kurt

[gjdale]

Jon,

 

If its flexibility you want in wood, then try using Holly. After a short soak you can tie into a pretzel! 

[Canute]

Ken , 2" in HO is.023"

[jwvolz]

Beautifully clean work Ken, very nice. 

[xken]

 

Kurt. Midwest replied 8:15 (pacific),#8000 will be in stock in 1-2 weeks.

[xken]

I anticipated the possible delay and started to move forward. The modelling god's are up there laughing at me; I thought I had #8000 somewhere so I started searching back through my boxes of stock and sure enough stuck between two sheets of 1/8" sheets was one partial pack with 4 pieces left in it much to my delight. They were painted sanded and painted again with the 60/40 mix of white paint and dried in the sun. Ends were cut and set in water to wick up the ends and the long stem pieces added first around the trail board. Then the short pieces added; first the top and bottom parts and then the sides with all cut at needed angles. The second brace from the hull required careful trimming to have a good fit to the rail trim. I dry fit all the parts first before gluing just for this reason. I finished the starboard first and these do require a bit of patience and I would highly recommend the use of the rigging tool and sharp blades for trimming. These do not need to be wetted. The #8000 was great to work with but tiny stuff to fit. Once all were dry and set the area was sprayed with Satin Clear to even up the finish and eliminate the CA glare areas. TIP: For those who break jeweler saw blades save them the ends with teeth make great CA applicators in tight spots and glue build up can be just broken off with two sets of pliers.

Here is a sequence showing the steps and the finished results; not perfect but good enough.

 

 

 

 

 

Next to move over to the port side. If you listen real close you can still hear the modelling god's laughing at me.

 

[JSGerson]

The sound you hear are the "gods" enjoying your build with joyous laughter. They are very happy with what you have done so far. I can't wait to see how you complete the trailboard decorations.

 

I did notice one curious thing with those decorations. I may be wrong as I have not studied the kit plans, but based on the laser etched trailboard you have in place, it appears that the kit has all the decorations on the trailboard when In fact, just a bit of them wrap close to the hawse pipes. I just wanted to make sure you knew now, so if you need to correct anything, this would be a good opportunity.

 

Jon

[xken]

Jon, just another of the kit's mis-judgments I saw the wrap around to the hawse plate but the kit trailboard when anchored at the top with the round portion on the bow stern it only extends down on the flat surface and would lay even shorter if I had not added the hawse plate like I did. The scroll work would have to be extended beyond the laser part and bend to fit on the hawse plate almost touching the forward hawse pipe. Based on my hull it would be another 5/16" on the hawse plate. I will cross that bridge once I get there; I am still thinking of the best way to the trailboard which originally was carved raised wood decoration. Just another of the kit's surprises that they do not charge extra for. 

[xken]

I pondered how to do the trailboard scroll work and decided to go beyond just painting the laser cut pattern which is a fair interruption and slightly distorted to fit the stem. I reverted to my experience with working in brass and scanned the laser cut patterns, cut them out and sprayed glued them to .010" sheet, then subsequently to 1/32" plywood to be sawed out using a jeweler's saw with a 0000 size blade. The plywood provides support and resistance when sawing the small thin pointed details. Use candle wax very often to lubricate the blade and keep clean. Sawing on a bench pin is a must and make a wood finger to keep pressure on the part against the pin when sawing. Unless you have super vision magnification of some kind is a must. Keep the laser pattern close and handy when sawing for reference.

 

Once the sections were cut out the edges were filed and trimmed as needed after soaking in lacquer thinner to remove the paper and plywood. Once ready they were soldered using a 40 watt iron and 50/50 solder starting at one end and working down the part to flood evenly based on the part section. Solder will flow based upon capillary action to bridge evenly as the part thickens and thins. Solder was cleaned with acetone and then again starting at one end and using the back edge of an Xacto blade tip the solder was scrapped/carved to resemble a wood cut. This step must be done with care to avoid having to re-solder if a mistake is made. Using a light close and at an angle to the part really helps since the surfaces will shine once scrapped with blade. Work slowly and carefully.

 

Here is a sequence of pictures:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These parts are great candidates for photo etching and would be a great addition for an upgrade kit.

 

The star center was drilled and the blade inserted and the points of the star sawed, then a sharp blade cut the final star points cleanly. This needs a steady hand.

 

One suggestion also is to take a fine half round file and grind the round side flat/tapered to the point to file into the tight intersections. The wood finger is a must as well; sometimes you just have to make your own tools to get the job done.

 

I will now cut the opposite side then work both sides to completion.   

[slow2cool]

WOW 

talk about greatness in detail

That's juat about as great as one can be !!!!!!!

Joe

[JSGerson]

Wow is right! I never expected this!

 

Making the shield decoration should be interesting. Now I suppose you're going to tell us that you going to cut out the tiny stars in the shield!! 8-)

 

Jon

[kurtvd19]

Ditto the previous WOW.

This alone is worth the price of admission here.

Great work and another great tip Ken

Kurt

[Geoff Matson]

Ken

 

Another way to solve a unique problem in a fantastic way. Your working with bass is exceptional. Great job!

[gjdale]

Brilliant work Ken!

[mtaylor]

I never, ever would have considered brass for that...  But it looks a lot better than the wood so it's well worth it.

[jwvolz]

Fantastic idea and beautifully executed. 

[xken]

Thank you all for your kind words and I am just glad to share what I can. I moved on and finished up the starboard side created the artwork for the shields and printed out two sets; one in color and one in gray scale which was used as a pattern to cut brass shields to mount the colored set on. Once out of the printer I sprayed them with an initial light coat of Clear Satin and then a second wet coat. This sets the ink and also makes the paper stiffer for easier cutting out.

 

While waiting for paint steps to dry I mounted the carved sections in place very carefully using CA applied with a broken jeweler's saw blade a drop at a time. When glue built up on the teeth I just broke the end off for a new set of saw teeth. Once the sections were glued in place then the shields were added.

 

After all the glues were set both boards were sprayed with Clear Satin for a uniform finish.m When dry then press fir in place. I will let them season for a while before permanently gluing in place.

 

Here are a couple a couple of pictures. The port side closeup and then a starboard side stand off. She now has a face.

 

 

 

Now to fiquire out the bow and stern bumpkins and work on the outer hull details.

 

I thought I would just share this for any who wish to follow later or try their hand at this technique.

 

 

 

Edited May 7, 2016 by xken