techniques for sanding planking?

[Mark Pearse]

Hi everyone,

 

I'm wondering what techniques others use to sand completed planking, where the basic planking lines are good but there is a certain amount of fairing to get down to a faired shape. The planks I've used are around 2.5mm thick, & most will be at least 2mm finished after final sanding with a few parts slightly under that, at maybe 1.75mm.

 

I was thinking of gluing sandpaper on to some flexible strips - maybe 1mm styrene or thin flexible ply - & sanding at various angles. The strips sized for one hand or two hands ..... so that I remove outstanding timber & not sand down where it's not needed. 

 

Forum title searches unfortunately didn't really find anything that matched what I'm looking for.

 

 

ideas ?

 

 

thanks, MP 

[NenadM]

I used different bases for sandpaper, mainly hand-made (hard base - wood,  soft base - rubber and styrene ) with different sand paper granulation (60-400) and with different width of base with sandpaper over, glued or just attached. In some positions, only sandpaper with finger as base, and on another, little strips of sand paper caught with a top of medical pean.  In my opinion, there is not only mechanical approach, you just have to feel curvatures at piece/surface you are working with - what it actually "requires". But, i am not a master, rather a kind of artist

 

There are many most experienced and master builders here to answer your question

 

This is only one possible approach

[mtaylor]

The biggest thing I've found and also recommened in TFFM is NOT use sandpaper with just your hand.  Back it with something stiff but flexible.. like the cardboard of the back of a notepad.  I use some thin plastic sheets I acquired seemingly eons ago for some vacuum molding projects.  These give you a good feel for what is being sanded and also the flexibility to handle curved surfaces. 

 

Also sanding sticks.. just some scrap wood with sandpaper glued to them for those small, difficult areas.  I also use the disposable nail files and sanding bricks (they're really foam covered in sandpaper) that one can get from beauty supply houses.

[Altduck]

See JulieMo's Americas cup challenger, post #109, for simple but practical flex tools

 

Richard

[NenadM]

... NOT use sandpaper with just your hand. Bac

Sometimes only with fingers you can sense little deviations which need some action

[hornet]

As well as a range of different grit sandpaper on different wood blocks, I use my Proxxon delta sander and pen sander.

The delta sander comes with a range of different grit pads and is great for sanding larger areas. The pen sander comes with different shaped attachments and is useful when getting into tight corners.

 

[mtaylor]

Sometimes only with fingers you can sense little deviations which need some action

 

That's true, Nenad.   I stop every few strokes and run my hands over the hull.  Time-consuming it I but I don't inadvertently get low spots from too much pressure where my fingertips are. 

 

This is one of those jobs that everyone really has to find out what works best for them. 

[Seventynet]

I would just like to add that to slightly bevel, correct or level the edges of planks already laid, or remove hardened glue from same, I have found that a good quality riffler file is invaluable.

Ian

[Mark Pearse]

thank you, all of these are going to be a great help

 

 

Mark

[Modeler12]

What I have used in the past is a very small sander made by Black and Decker called the mouse.

It has a flexible tip (with separate tip sand paper pieces) and does a decent job even on sanding decks.

At one time it was sold by Home Depot for about $35 but had a bad review because people were trying to use it as a 'power sander'.

  

PS the second picture was taken when I was not happy with the spar deck planking (not smooth enough) and decided to redo it.

Another comment about 'sanding by hand'. It is true that your fingers can feel slight bumps or other deviations better than your eye (sometimes), but that does not imply that you should sand by hand. For areas that should be smooth and continues, use a sandpaper block by hand. I think that is what Mark Taylor was referring to.

If you ever have done any bodywork on a car, you know what the finger tips can do for you.

Edited December 8, 2015 by Modeler12

[Guest Tim I.]

I pre-sand. I use sandpaper from 80 grit down to 1600 on the strip before I glue it down. I have found that this works very well and provides for a smooth finish. A little sanding might be needed after, but it is minimal.

 

- Tim I.

[Mark Pearse]

golly, 1600 grit - I did't know it even existed

 

Jay, can you use that for concave curved surfaces?

 

I recently completed a table & was surprised by how when hand planing the tops down to 20mm thick, I was able to feel subtle thickness differences & work out where to remove next. However for some reason I'm unsure of this for a complex curved surface, but perhaps that is inexperience.

 

thanks 

[Modeler12]

Jay, can you use that for concave curved surfaces?

 

 

No Mark, the mouse has a flat surface on the bottom and would not work on concave surfaces. Hence is works fine on the outside planking of a hull but not on the inside.

 

I was curious if the mouse is still available. It has changed a bit but is still there at Home Depot for $40.

 http://www.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-DECKER-Mouse-1-2-Amp-Detail-Sander-BDEMS600/205545909

Be careful of others that are a bit cheaper but don't have the flexible tip.

Edited December 8, 2015 by Modeler12

[_SalD_]

Jay, I have a mouse sander as well and use it all the time. I just recently used it to sand down the outer hull of my long boat and it worked great.  I prefer using it with the finger detail attachment, it gives me a better feel and I can get into tighter areas.

 

[Guest Tim I.]

golly, 1600 grit - I did't know it even existed

 

Jay, can you use that for concave curved surfaces?

 

I recently completed a table & was surprised by how when hand planing the tops down to 20mm thick, I was able to feel subtle thickness differences & work out where to remove next. However for some reason I'm unsure of this for a complex curved surface, but perhaps that is inexperience.

 

thanks 

 

I have a bunch of it given to me by my grandfather (1600 grit) who is a wood worker and who builds furniture. I use it very sparingly as my supply has been depleted quite a bit, without me being able to replenish it.

Edited December 8, 2015 by Tim I.

[Mike Y]

Maybe there are different grits in US and EU?

I use Mirka sandpaper. From 240 to 2000. Typically 240 -> 400 -> 600 -> 1200. Grit 2000 makes an interesting effect, and not suitable for some woods.

I never ever used 60 or 80 grit on a model - it is so rough that leave deep scratches. Sometimes I use a sanding stick with grit 180 as a rasp.

240 is the lowest grit I can use. It is aggressive enough to thickness sand frames, etc.

And in a lot if comments I see "start with 60". Reeeeally?

Edited December 8, 2015 by Mike Y

[mtaylor]

1600 grit... hit the local auto supply shop.. in the paint section.  There's sandpaper all the way to (ready for this...?)  6000 grit.   That last I think would have to be from a machine tool supply house as it's used in polishing.

[Canute]

Try some kraft paper, the stuff they make paperbags with. It does have a very fine grit if you're trying to polish some paint. Test first!

[druxey]

Mike Y: 80-grit will remove stock rapidly, but I stop long before getting down to the final surface. as it leaves deep scratches. I wouldn't use it for more than the really rough work. For wood, getting beyond 325 or 400-grit is counter-productive.

[Mark Pearse]

does anyone use micro mesh for sanding their models?

[Mike Y]

 

 

For wood, getting beyond 325 or 400-grit is counter-productive.

Depends on what is needed - fine grits do not remove any material, but they polish and change the look.

There is a pretty visible difference after you sand castello or pear with 1200.

But maybe other people use steel wool or similar things for that.

[Jolley Roger]

And if you want a really polished look, you can go to 12000 grit

 

Available from http://www.umm-usa.com/onlinestore/index.php , mainly a plastic modelers site, but they've got some cool stuff!

[S.Coleman]

The old electric toothbrush with sandpaper glued to where the bristles have been cut off.

[Ulises Victoria]

golly, 1600 grit - I did't know it even existed

 

 

Mark... these sanding pads go from 1500 to 12,000 grit. I use them extensively in my pen turning hobby, specially when finishing acrylics.

 

Not for use in my shipbuilding, though.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Mesh-Assortment-Pack-18-Pieces/dp/B00HJC156U/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451400577&sr=1-2&keywords=sanding+pads

Edited December 29, 2015 by Ulises Victoria