Trabakul by donrobinson - FINISHED - MarisStella - 1:32 scale

[rafine]

She's looking great Don.

 

Bob

[DocBlake]

I love the companion way (well, everything really!).  The model's stand is also outstanding.  Great work, Don.

[EJ_L]

Fantastic work! She is really looking awesome!

[donrobinson]

Elijah- Thanks for stopping in, I'm looking forward to your next build log

 

Pierre - The rope for the handles is from Syren(.63 mm) and the the rope tying the lids together is just normal polyester sewing thread that I put a serving on

 

Ian- Hi! Thanks for the compliment and I hope things are going well for you

 

Bob - Thanks, I appreciate you dropping by

 

Dave - I was thinking of your builds when I finally cut up my rosewood board. I bought this board almost forty years ago and have never cut into it

 

E.J. - Hey how are things? Thanks for that, I may just go to my little cabinet and have a refreshment 

[donrobinson]

Thanks Zoltan, good of you to stop in for a visit

[mikiek]

Just noticed the pintle & gudgeon hinges. Nice idea!

[Barbossa]

WOW !! This is a great job, Don

There's so much more than the typical 17 th & 18 th century warships. I often make this  mistake 

Wonderful photo's. 

 

[donrobinson]

Mike- Thanks Mike, the hinges were not that bad to make but at this scale this kind of thing is much easier

 

Christian - You are so right saying that, and it is a nice change do a ship such as this. There are a few more MarisStella models I also want to try, they are such great kits. Thanks for for your compliments>

[donrobinson]

Hey everyone, I hope you are all enjoying the weekend. Thanks to all for stopping, for your likes and comments.

 Today's update is showing the catheads and anchors. I realise it is a bit early for the anchors but I couldn't resist the urge to see how they would look, they can be easily removed if required.

 

This is a practice cathead, just to get the fit, angles and dimensions right. This is just 6 x 6 mm basswood, the final product is made from 6 x 6 mm rosewood. The holes and simulated sheaves were made on the mill using a 1 mm end mill cutter.

 

 

I am just showing for those who haven't done this before how I install the anchors. A line is put through the eye on the cathead pulled through, doubled over itself forming a loop, wrapped around itself(three times in this case) and then fed through the loop 

 

Pull both ends to tighten seizing 

 

 Then move seizing up into place

 

 There is a hook stropped to the double block. The line is then fed through block and sheave in cathead and finally belayed to a cleat. The rope around the anchor shaft has a thimble seized in it. Rope is wrapped around the shaft and belayed to the kinighthead.

 

I didn't care for how loose the line through the cathead and block was so I painted the line with diluted pva glue and added the tweezers for weight

 

This is the final result. The anchor rope is from Syren that has been dyed from tan to brown. All other rope used is kit supplied, The hook on the block needs some touching up...as does some of the other some of the other paint by looking at these close ups

 

And a shot from inboard

 

 Finally a picture of the tool I use to make hooks with. I found this here on MSW some time ago and I can't remember the fellow's name but I surely thank him as it works great.

[Blighty]

That was an interesting update Don, very nice detail.

 

Len

[mikiek]

Looks really sharp Don. How does the kit rope compare to Syren?  How do you use the hook tool?

[donrobinson]

len: Thanks, hope it helps someone

 

Mike : Thanks. The tool is clamped in a vise then using an appropriate sized drill bit you bend the wire around it. I can post some pictures if you want

[mikiek]

Don - if you have time some pix would be great. I'm about to start rigging Arrow and there are calls for hooks and of course none supplied.

[donrobinson]

Here is the process for making eyebolts and hooks, please remember this not my idea but one I found here and I don't remember the gentleman's name:

 

Lay wire on jig insert drill bit and pull down on the bit

 

Keep bending and turning the wire over the bit leaving a slight overlap

 

move the wire around and bend it down on the bevelled edge, this lines the eye up with the shaft of the bolt

 

sorry for blurry picture, my left hand was a little shaky today. This a finished eyebolt

 

to make a hook lay the eyebolt flat on the jig

 

insert bit and bend the wire up

 

turn bolt back around to bevelled edge of jig and make a slight bend

 

cut the excess wire off and you have a eyebolt. 

 

 This picture shows the hook we just made(on the left) and some other sizes I've made. The bronze hooks and eyebolts are for the gun carriages on my Pegasus

 

 a clearer picture of the jig, easy to make and easy to use

 

Hope this is useful

 

Mike: I forgot to answer your question about the rigging rope The rope does not compare to Syren, nothing does,but the rope supplied is quite adequate and I won't be exchanging it out. I used the Syren rope for the anchor as it was a little bigger, which I thought looked better.

[mikiek]

Fantastic Don - What a good process. Looks like you can get very consistent output like that. That's always my downfall. Nice looking hooks but no two are the same size.

 

What was the size of the tubing you used? Looks like the tube ID needs to be about the same as the OD of the bit?

[Seventynet]

Thanks for that tutorial Don. Very helpful.

 

Ian

[donrobinson]

Mike : Yes, you can make very consistent ones. The brass rod I used was approx. 5mm or 3/8". To determine the size of hole required you take the size of eye you want( 1mm for example) plus twice the diameter of wire (.5 mm) so a hole of 2 mm would be required, you would then use a 1 mm bit to form the eyes. Drill hole into rod, file off approx. half the length of the hole until half of it is exposed then at the very end file a little bit of a bevel as seen in the pictures. I must admit I use this same jig almost all the time, making a jig for the exact size you want would make it even easier. On the jig shown the opposite end has a different size hole. 

[EJ_L]

Great tip for making eyebolts and hooks. Thanks!

[donrobinson]

Ian, Thanks buddy. This a real good project for the new mill. Canadian Tire has the brass rod

[donrobinson]

Zoltan: Thanks, I'm just passing on a idea that I found here on MSW

 

E.J.: No problem, it really is a good little jig and it also works for making hinges

[mikiek]

Glad you straightened me out. I didn't realize that was a drilled out rod. Probably even better. It would have been difficult to find various sizes of tubing.

[DocBlake]

Great tutorial, Don! And continuing great work on the model.

 

  BTW:  Before the switch in software, MSW "content I follow" always listed the latest comment on a topic first, with the other comments on other topics chronologically in order.  You were always able to keep up with the latest developments.  With the current setup, that's not the case.  Despite the post above mine (Mike's) posted 14 hours ago, this build log and it's latest post remain on page 5 of my "content I follow" menu.  Can that be fixed?  Anyone know?

[donrobinson]

Thanks Dave, hopefully someone with more knowledge than I will see your post and have an answer for you.

[mikiek]

Dave - re your question. I've found that sometimes I have to to some sort of action to make the software "think" I have read earlier posts. Something like click on the thread or click to go to the next page. Also, if you haven't seen it, on the Content I Follow page there's a heading bar about 1/3 from the top. There's a column called Read Status. Click the little down arrow to the right and check out those options. It works for me. The bad part is the options are not saved so every time you go to Content I Follow I have to reset it.

[donrobinson]

Thanks to all for stopping by, for your likes and gracious comments. Almost a month since last update and I have accomplished some.

First up is making some oar locks:

 

 

From left to right: kit supplied one, outline on rosewood board, initial cutting on mill, after sanding on disc sander and final product

 

 

Pins installed in bottoms and a coat of WOP (two extra to cover breakage)

 

 

The Trabaccolo has two fittings unique to herself and the Brazzera. These are both belaying points, one style for the halyards and the other for the stays

 

 

The finished product

 

 

For the stays

 

 

And for the halyards, one at the mizzen and one at fore mast

 

[donrobinson]

Nothing too exciting here, I just thought I would show how I seize a block to a hook.

 

[donrobinson]

And finally the last of my updates, this first one is showing block and bracket installed for bowsprit

 

 

This one is showing a piece I missed on the plans, rather important as it supports the rudder

 

 

All the masts (full length is not in picture), bowsprit and spars are made.Some of the rigging is complete, the lower spars have a bit of a complicated rigging with a traveller and also a mouse of sorts

 

 

A close up of the aft lower spar showing the rigging

 

 

Masts are just temporally put together for picture 

 

That's about it for this update, all plans for being outside are on hold as we are getting snow today so I'm hoping to have a productive day in shipyard, after laundry and dishes are done

 You all Have a good day and Thanks so much for stopping in

[DocBlake]

Great stuff, as usual, Don.  Excellent craftsmanship.

 

Snow???  We have blue skies and temps in the upper 60's F!!  You really are in the Great White North   !!

[mrshanks]

"laundry and dishes"..  

[Blighty]

Lovely work Don, so consistent!

 

Len