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Posted

Nice video on blackening Kevin. Some random thoughts - I use either alcohol or acetone as a degreaser. Also, keep in mind that brass is an alloy and, depending on the composition, some brass is much more difficult to blacken. For large groups of pieces I find that pickling first makes a difference in the blackening and uniformity of the finish. For small pieces you can use a paint brush to polish them in a deep tupperware piece so they don't fly away. Polishing prevents the finish from transfering to surrounding pieces and evens out the finish. Finally, while it's easier to blacken the Swan PE sheet whole don't you find that you still have to blacken the cut edges after removal from the sheet?

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

Posted

What a number of the videos and modelers notes seem to indicate is that no one knows what is on the brass and different solvents will affect different contaminants on the pieces. I have acetone and should have mentioned it. Certainly the best results was pickling the pieces. Based on my soldering experience this has never disappointed me. You are right about blackening the photo etched pieces still connected to the frame. I actually used a stiff paint brush with the solvents and could see something coming off in the solution.  My choice would be to prickle the pieces, rinse, then blacken. If they did not take then i would try one of the three solvents i have in the shop until i get success. Thanks for the feedback.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I could be wrong about this, but I think the openings in the door panel should be just large enough to straddle the bitts. I think this is an error (i.e., openings too large) that I made on HMS Fly, but that was along time ago.

Chris Coyle

Greer, South Carolina
When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk. - Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Mitsubishi A6M5a,

 

Posted

Kevin.

While watching your video and seeing the train tackle that could not be used as it was already hauled in as much as possible... I wonder if they would have used the port deck eye with the starboard gun and the starboard deck eye with the port gun? This would allow them to pull the gun back all the way to the eye and possibly expose the muzzle inboard for loading.

I know it will be covered and hidden from view... but I am left wondering if this was the solution?

Alan

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

Out of State member of the New Bern Maritime Modelers Guild (2025)

Posted

Hi Alan

the recoil from the cannon would push it  all the way back to the end of the breeching line. After which the gun would be reloaded and i feel will need both port or gun tackles to get it back to its firing position. Also pulling on one side of the gun tackle may cause the gun to move to one side. So my guess is that they pulled both sides together. The train tackle was probably only needed when starting the firing sequence. 
 

i also found how the port tackle was flayed. Photograph attached. So they did not coil the side tackles but instead tied it on itself as i did with my guns. These storage solutions for the various tackles would only be used when the cannon was not in use. When in use rope would be all over the place just like it is in a modern racing boat. The tackles would also be tight when the cannon is not in use to prevent ut moving around. 
 

i also found a short video which may be useful to those who never knew how the cannons were used in battle. 
 

 

IMG_4982.jpeg

IMG_8504.jpeg

Posted

Thanks for the video... I learned something from it about loading bullets!

 

My only thoughts were for the use of the train tackle. Yes the gun would recoil on firing so the train tackle was mostly used to retract manually. I cannot envision that one getting used and wonder if I might experience the same thing on my ship, and if so what might be the resolution to the issue. I will reflect on it for a bit more... quietly in the corner! 🤔 

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

Out of State member of the New Bern Maritime Modelers Guild (2025)

Posted

agreed!

Alan O'Neill
"only dead fish go with the flow"   :dancetl6:

Ongoing Build (31 Dec 2013) - HMS BELLEROPHON (1786), POF scratch build, scale 1:64, 74 gun 3rd rate Man of War, Arrogant Class

Member of the Model Shipwrights of Niagara, Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada (2016), and the Nautical Research Guild (since 2014)

Associate member of the Nautical Research and Model Ship Society (2021)

Offshore member of The Society of Model Shipwrights (2021)

Out of State member of the New Bern Maritime Modelers Guild (2025)

Posted

I found this on earlier post on the forum.Checking on Ai it came up with the same reasoning. So i will stick with the red.

   

“ The following is more likely the reason.   Deck furniture, bulwarks, etc, were red ochre. This was discussed in an earlier post here at MSW in 2021 and it was mentioned that this was for protection from the weather and ochre (earth) colors were inexpensive.  In addition, after long sea voyages and during repairs it was also refreshed. The idea that it would hide blood was coincidental, not the reason it was most often red.  There are a number of contemporary models where much of the inboard works were painted black.  I have no idea if this was original or done at some later time.  The Navy Board stated 18 July 1715 that painting (presumably outboard and inboard) was "not to refresh oftener than once a year or two and the inboard works that are from the weather."  There is no mention of a particular color or hiding blood.  The actual usefulness in protecting the wood from rot and the cost would probably be a bigger concern to the navy than the mental state of the sailors in the age of sail.    If you are next to a man that has had some part of his body ripped off, I doubt hiding the blood on a bulwark would make it any easier to avoid fear, panic  or the onset PTSD. 

Allan

Edited May 28, 2023 by allanyed”

Posted

The NRG Conference was in Boston in 1996 or 7 and part of the conference was time on the USS Constitution (and the shops).  At that time the inside of the bulwarks was green.  Very surprising to me.

Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

CLUBS

Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago

Midwest Model Shipwrights

North Shore Deadeyes

The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

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