HM Bomb Vessel Granado 1756 by Timmo - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64

[Timmo]

A test panel was painted up using humbrol pale yellow 81. Oil mixes took care of the shading to add some depth. the shadow is pale yellow with a dash of raw umber oil paint and the highlight is white oil with the same.

 

 

 

The test panel fitted in a slot for a comparison. I'm fairly happy with this as a first go and will continue with the real thing from here.

 

[realworkingsailor]

Hey... that looks pretty sweet..

 

You're quite the artist!

 

Andy

[Blue Ensign]

That looks excellent Timmo, got a good period feel to it, and so much more satisfaction knowing you've done it yourself.

 

Well done.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Kevin]

very nice, much nicer than the transfers

[WackoWolf]

I have to agree with Kevin way better than the transfers. Keep the pictures coming.

[Blueskippy]

Timmo,

that panel looks perfect, you have me worried now Granado is one if my choices for a next build, and that has set the bar high....

 

O will follow your progress with interest/dread lol!

 

Keep up the good work

[Kevin]

I have to agree with Kevin way better than the transfers. Keep the pictures coming.

must have read this wrong, lol - no one ever agrees with me

[WackoWolf]

I am enjoying this build very much. Your doing an excellent job on her, I agree with Brian about the quality of the wood and fittings straight from the box. It's not something that is seen in kits. Keep the pictures coming.

[Timmo]

I was quite enthused after painting that test panel and did something unusual for me and worked on the ship in the evening. I usually only stick to daylight hours in the weekend but with my better half at work and the kids tucked in bed I continued on with the rest of the panels using the method described earlier.

 

Here's the basic shape painted on each panel in humbrol 81.

 

 

Now the shadows added with a dash of raw umber and yellow.

 

 

Now the highlights with the yellow and white mixed together bringing the lot to life. A better brush probably would have given some better results but that will do me. Colouring might be a little difficult to judge under these kitchen halogens so I'll see what it looks like in the morning. They will need some matt overcoat and possibly a fine spray of a very light and dilute grey or similar through the airbrush to tone the colours down a shade and blend the yellow and blue slightly. Just a little something to take the edge off doc!

 

[Timmo]

I couldn't wait and had to install them to see how it looks. At least in here will be safer while the oil dries. It's a pretty thin mix with the humbrol and thinners should be done overnight. . I've had to wait weeks in the past for oils to dry on some projects.

 

 

And here's a shot of His majesty's bomb vessel Granado in her current state of disrepair. Only other recent additions are the main hatch ring bolts, hole for the main mast and stern fascia, which I'll post a pic of when I head back down that again soon.

 

[gjdale]

Just found your log Timmo. What an excellent job you're doing here. I love what you've done with the painted panels - looks superb. I'll follow along for the rest of the ride now.

[Kevin]

very nice, well done

 

if this was a modern vessels, each of the panels would have a separate health and safety poster on it, like mind the mortar pit, beware of death - sort of thing

Edited April 22, 2013 by Kevin

[j21896]

Fantastic painting work Timmo!  The color selection, the detail, the shading -- everything is outstanding.

 

Cheers,

Robert

[Timmo]

Thanks guys

[Timmo]

The panels were toned down with a clear matt. A small amount of shading was applied to edge with an airbrush. A dilute dark grey/black along the door panel lines and sides. A waterway on 2mm strip was added to the bottom as per AOTS and some of those brass nails in every kit that I never use made the door handles. A touch of class for the captain!

 

 

After a bit of cutting a fiddling with the bulwark edges the false poop deck was added.

 

[Blue Ensign]

I think you've nailed the artwork Timmo, well done.

 

Regards,

 

 

B.E.

[Timmo]

Thanks blue. The pics make the contrast appear greater than what it is in person.

It's made me have a think about the rest of the painted work on the model. I might look at adding a bit of a shading wash to some of the stern carvings but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

[Gahm]

I just saw your build log for the first time. Your Granado looks very good! And it was an excellent idea not to use the decals. Your version is far superior! I am always tempted to build the Granado at some time myself. . . so I will follow your build log with great interest!

 

Thomas

[Beef Wellington]

Love what you've done with those panels, top notch!

[Timmo]

The poop deck has now been planked using contact adhesive. The caulking is just pencil on both faces of the planks. I don't like too much of a contrast there.

The bulwark sides were made up off the vessel and painted before being glued into place to avoid damaging the deck with stray sanding or paint. I might add a small beading strip along the front of the poop to cover the face of the ply. It's not too visible but I notice it sometimes.

 

 

A shot of the stern and overall view so far. No more building today- my wife is whisking me away on a mystery night away for our wedding anniversary. She's even stowed the kids with their grandparents. Magic!

 

 

[Tophog]

Looks great.

[Timmo]

Thanks Geoffrey, your Korean build looks like one to watch.

[Timmo]

On to the foc'sle. The kit comes with ten four pounder cannon with the option of arranging them all on the broadside or installing a couple of bow chasers.

As access under the foc'sle all but disappear once it's installed the guns are installed first.

The carriages were made up during a Christmas break at the beach (I'm in the Southern Hemisphere so yes that's the natural order of things) where it rained for far too long. The sheet of walnut ply with the carriages suffered from a dramatic difference in tone on one side,running right through one carriage. As it only touched one this could be hidden under the foc'sle.

The only other piece touched by this was the mainmast fighting top which will be painted anyway.

 

 

After much experimentation I think I've got the hang of brass blackener. After being three quarters of the way through my bottle of Krick blackener I've discovered it's heat that activates this stuff more than the dilution of the solution. A couple of guns and some other fittings have been blackened in a tub of solution heated for about 8 seconds in the microwave and sat in a sink of hot water to keep it warm. After painting the two mortars out of frustration with this solution I'm back on board with it and will use it from here on.

 

Edited May 6, 2013 by Timmo

[Blue Ensign]

The blackening looks good Timmo, but microwaving the guns is a new one on me,   can you safely put metal objects in a microwave?

 

How stable is the finish on the guns, having been cooked is there less tendency for the surface to rub off? I had to coat my guns after blackening.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Timmo]

Lost in translation there Blue.. The solution was heated in a glass jar in the microwave and the brass then added to the warmed fluid. Brass and microwaves won't mix. There's probably a saf way someone will suggest. I have read somewhere the ammonia in the solution could evaporate if over heated so care is urged here.

Also the black is extremely stable, it's been lightly buffed and shows no sign of coming off anytime soon.

Edited May 6, 2013 by Timmo

[Blue Ensign]

Phew, that's a relief I had visions of exploding microwaves all over the world.

 

Did you heat the solution at a particular setting, high, medium or low,?

 

Interesting about the stablility, 'rubbing off' can present problems when handling even when successfully covered.

 

I'm using a different brand of blackening to you, I might give the technical guys a ring at Carr's and ask them what they think, it does say on the container that the stuff is 'Toxic by inhalation'

 

B.E.

[Timmo]

It was on high in an 1100w microwave. It never ran for more than 8 sec at a stretch as there was not much solution and even that time gave some unnerving crackling noises and fumes. Suspect the ammonia has a lower boiling point and it got close to that as there was a residue left on the jar from small dredges that appeared to have evaporated.

I haven't looked very hard as yet, just one hardware store, but can't find a local alternative so might be ordering so e more form cornwall mb soon.

Washing the parts in acetone first before dipping in solution gave nice even coverage with no blemishes.

[gjdale]

That's a really interesting observation/experimentation with heating the blackening solution Timmo - I've not heard of that before. I wonder what our resident Mad Chemist might have to add to the discussion? Might try some experimenting myself based on this as I've had a few problems with blackening thus far.

[Timmo]

Baaahh. I broke my pin vice by cross threading it so no more progress on the guns as I simply can't drill the pin and block holes and install them until I get another.

In the meantime I worked on some other parts of the forecastle.

The false deck leaves a a fair bit of room on either side of the bowsprit. I'm after a snug fit between the bowsprit and deck planking so it'll be best to plank with the bowsprit in its final position.

 

The bowsprit is 8mm dowel with a 3mm end to slot into the sprit holder ( correct term escapes me) . This, and the correct angle for then end of the sprit is worked up.

This enables the correct position for the sprit for when the planks are eventually on and will hopefully allow it to just slot back in when it comes to that stage.

 

 

The forecastle beam was also sanded to shape and test fitted. A couple of marks in the bulwark topside at the false deck fitting stage is helpful here. Dropping the chimney shaft (walnut) in is also helpful to align the deck.

 

[Timmo]

The guns have etched brass trunnions caps held down with dome headed nails (right hand gun). It's effective in that it wont be coming loose any time soon but quite heavy handed for the scale. I modified the gun at left by removing the nails, using a brass pin to hold the trunnions cap on and added some retaining bolts from brass and fuse wire for some extra detail.

It's difficult to see once its all painted black and these bowchasers will be under the foc'sle but I like it better than the kit option and will take this route for the rest of the guns.

 

 

Boy, I'd forgotten how long it takes to tie gun tackle blocks. After a good four hours of fiddling and cursing the blocks were rigged. Next step gun installation. The cannon were pinned to the deck to prevent them running amok later. The kit suggests 0.25mm line for the breaching ropes. This is a barely noticeable increase in size from the .1mm training tackle ropes so I used .5mm. Could probably gone even thicker as I'm still not sure I'd want to stand anywhere near a gun restrained by these if I was 1/64th scale.

Rope coils were line brushed with dilute wood glue and rolled on a paintbrush handle, left until they hold a shape but not stuck to the handle and gently crimped with tweezers until firm. They were stuck on with the same glue and gently pushed down to give a natural fall. If done before the glue completely sets it stops them defying gravity too much and sitting upright.