Bluenose by Worldway - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64

[Don Quixote]

I see no bleed through. I can't believe you have the patients to tape all that off.

[Heronguy]

I sometimes find that walking away from a “disaster” for while allows it to fix itself at least partially!  I can be confident about this as I get lots of disasters to check it out!

 

Good work Derek

[Don Quixote]

Once you've eliminated all the wrong ways, the right way is all that's left.

[Worldway]

On 2/25/2018 at 7:45 PM, JustBlowingInTheWind said:

Once you've eliminated all the wrong ways, the right way is all that's left.

Well put Brian.

 

On 2/25/2018 at 5:17 PM, Heronguy said:

I sometimes find that walking away from a “disaster” for while allows it to fix itself at least partially!  I can be confident about this as I get lots of disasters to check it out!

 

Good work Derek

Your absolutely right Doug. My problem is that when a task gets very repetitive I tend to quickly lose interest.  Especially if I feel that it needs to be repeated.  If you look at my posts for this build I haven't been very active lately. However, because of the cost of the kits and money spent getting the right tools etc., I told myself that I have to get back at it.

 

I found an easier and quicker way to mask.  As shown by the following pictures.

 

 

I managed to mask the quarter deck and paint it in about half the time I spent on the foredeck.

[Don Quixote]

I'm betting I can paint mine by hand. No taping off.

 

As for the repetitive, I always try to make a jig, or fine some way to mass produce. I think that's what gets me in trouble.

[Worldway]

Trust me Brian, if you do it by hand then go for it.  Myself, I'm not artistic at all and tend to get paint all over the place 

[Worldway]

I was removing the cap rail from the billet and broke a small piece off.  No worries, a bit of 1/16" x 1/16" scrap and the fix was made.

 

 

However, I do have a situation that I need your help on.  As you can see, .my cap rail doesn't completely line up with the transom block.  The drawings show about an 1/8" reveal but I have close to 1/2".  Also I need to raise it about 3/8"

 

 

 

 

So I'm curious how critical all these dimensions are or what I need to modify for a proper fit.  Should I build my own vertical pieces or just move the kit supplied ones up to meet the top rail.  Is this critical or is this just an unnecessary detail.

 

Any advice would me most helpful

[Nirvana]

I see two issues you have run into, the transom build up is to thick, take a second look at the plans and you will see that the perpendicular planks are to visible.

Doing has change the location of the main sheet boom buffer.

Secondly I think it looks like the aft deck stanchions are little to high. The bigger unit should align with the waist.

Hope this didn't add on with to much work. You are doing a great job. 

The cap rail is to have a slight lip over the transom.

[Worldway]

Taking advice from Per, I began reworking the transom.  I chiseled it until I achieved the proper proportion.  I added a filler piece then finished it off with some wood fill.  I think it's a good improvement.

 

[Nirvana]

That looks so much better. 

Before you add that piece you have some extra part to add on underneath.

Look at the plans.

Edited March 4, 2018 by Nirvana

[Worldway]

A little more fine tuning and I think I finally got it.  I haven't attached anything permanently yet, just showing perspective.

 

[Worldway]

Tonight I cut in the hawse ports. Pretty easily done but had some minor damage which was easily repaired.

 

 

I initially cut the hole then used needle files to fine tune it.

 

One thing I've noticed is that the caprail is 1/16" x 7/16" for the most part but widens to 9/16" in areas where there the belaying pins are located. 

 

 

The kit doesn't come with either size plank.   I'm curious what others might have done at this stage or I'm open to any suggestions.

Edited March 6, 2018 by Worldway

[Nirvana]

You should have 4 plank strips 1/2" wide in the kit. Those are for the main rail.

The widest part on my plans for the main rail measures 5/16, where we have the belaying pins.

Your plans might be off in measures.

[Worldway]

Thanks Per, I think I'm getting a little screwed up with measurements. I keep thinking 1/16" but we are talking 1/32".  The 1/2" strip will work fine.  Thanks for keeping me on track.  One question, did you cut the strip to width then bend it or did you cut it to the profile of the deck?

[Nirvana]

Derek, 

I lifted the part from the plans..... I attached 2" wide clear tape on top of the plan, then used a second layer tape to trace the part.

This way I was able to lift the part as according to plan.

See my page 7 as most of the main rail construction is located there.

Thanks for asking for help........ I might be the next one to ask ......

[Worldway]

It's been a while since I updated my progress. I decided to try my luck at a bit of scratch building for the main rail.  As usual, when I'm tasked with something new, I tend to over analyze for quite a while until I finally break out the tools.  I bought a sheet of balsa wood and glued on the pattern using a glue stick.  I cut the rail out using my scroll saw trying to stay as close to the line as I could.

 

There was a bit of sanding required but no big deal using the sanding options I had. I also set up my Dremel so i could use it like a drum sander to help make the task go faster.

 

 

I'll still have a lot of fitting to do and cutting to length.  

 

 

[Don Quixote]

I'm coming on that as soon as I'm done painting.

 

My scroll saw is a dremel product. It's not deep enough for that. I fear I'll have to make them smaller pcs.

[Worldway]

I spent some time finishing up the transom and installing the cap rail.

 

The bow cap rail didn't fit as expected however I think this will sort itself out when I drill the hole for the bowsprit

 

 

I completed the cap rail and added some filler in the odd location.  It's just a matter of a bit of final sanding then it's off to the paint booth.

 

[AON]

AHOY neighbour!

(Nice to see you back) 

 

Sort of looks like that's what she needs to fall into place doesn't it.

 

[Worldway]

I know it's been a while since my last post but I am back working on the Bluenose.  First order of business is to repair the misalignment of the bow cap rail.  It's my usual MO.  I see an error, justify it by thinking it will look OK in the finished product, think and think about it then finally remove and repair it.  Luckily the piece popped off quite easily.  I'll add a couple of extenders and remount it.  

 

I have also had a good look at the progress so far and have determined that there are a few places that need additional attention to detail which I will take care of over the next while.  Plus, overall it could use a good sanding (and perhaps some filler here and there).

 

I'm not a fan of painting but realize that it's a necessary evil.  Especially on the Bluenose where it's signature look is the red/black hull.  At a very minimum, the hull will get painted.  I have invested in an airbrush and compressor so I should really learn how to use them.

 

No pictures this time.  I think you can see from my previous posts what I'm referring to in this post.

 

 

[AON]

Nice to see you getting back to your Bluenose Derek!  Hope to see some photos in the coming weeks.

 

See you at the club Zoom meeting on the 12th.

[Worldway]

Dealing with the bow cap rail, I had to lengthen it and narrow it.  I cut it in half and sanded each half.  I also made filler pieces to lengthen the cap rail.

 

 

I've done the one side and clamped it.  Once dried, I will do the other side.  Then it's off to sanding

 

[Worldway]

While waiting for the cap rail repairs to set up I decided to work on some of the deck furniture.

 

 

I was giving thought as to how detailed I wanted to make the Bluenose.  I figured at this point in my ship building career I would keep things relatively basic.  I've seen some work by true artists on this forum and I will never try to be like them, but I figure I can build up to greater detail as my skills improve.  I need to keep my work within my means.

 

 

 

 

Edited August 28, 2021 by Worldway

[AON]

Derek,

I just tell myself what that masters do is all smoke and mirrors... then I try.  Sometimes after a day or two I convince myself I can do better and try again. Usually I am right. Possibly because I learnt something valuable the first time and after pondering on it for that day or two I envisioned what I might try the second time.

I believe that drive to try again is what made those masters.

Never give up and don't sell yourself short.

We all have it in us if we just try.

[David Lester]

Hi Derek,

Glad to see you're back at your Bluenose. You mentioned that you're not a fan of painting, but you're right that it's pretty much essential for this hull. The white stripe that separates the red from the black is relatively easy to do. I just used 1/16" masking tape and it was straightforward. However the upper yellow stripe is actually quite tricky, but I think it's important to the look of the hull. If I'm not being too forward, I thought I would give you a heads up on it and how I approached the challenge.The problem is the fact that it goes immediately above the scuppers. There's plenty of room for it towards the bow, but towards the stern where the suppers are higher, there is very little room for it, and it can't spill onto the plank above as that plank is recessed.

 

On the real vessel, the yellow stripe is actually a groove and it's very narrow. There just isn't enough room to create a neat and tidy groove especially in basswood, so it really needs to be applied to the surface. I'm currently building my second Bluenose model. I'm not doing a build log for the second one, as it would be a near carbon copy of the first, but I did handle the yellow stripe differently in each case and I think both results are acceptable.

 

The first time around, I didn't have any really narrow masking tape, but I had a lot of Evergreen vinyl strips kicking around, so I painted one yellow and glued it on. It's very narrow and while it actually sits proud of the hull surface, it's so minimal that it's really undetectable.

 

The vinyl strip is .01" x .03" and I think it's pretty close to the right width.

 

This time around, I didn't have any vinyl strips of the right size, but I did find find 1mm Tamiya tape. It's just a bit wider than the .03" vinyl strip, but it seems to be acceptable too. I think anything wider than 1mm is going to be very difficult to fit on that plank and I think it will begin to look too wide relative to the real Bluenose.

 

Overall, I'd say that the masking tape version is the easier one to do and probably the better solution, but at 1mm in width it just barely fits in. The other annoying problem is the colour of the tape which almost perfectly matches the yellow paint. It was hard knowing if I was placing the tape straight or wavy; there was almost no contrast.

 

Anyway, not sure if that's at helpful to you or not, but I hope it's of some value. BTW I found the 1mm tape at Sunward Hobbies. I don't recall seeing it anywhere else. I'm enjoying your build log.

David

[Worldway]

Thanks for the words of thought Alan. I think what got me discouraged in the first place was trying for perfection and realizing I could never achieve it.  I even figured that all I needed was better tools and equipment.  That really didn't work however,,,,, well there really is nothing bad or negative to say about that. 

 

Thanks also David for the information.  It will definitely be helpful.  I am putting off painting for a while as I want to sand and fill the hull more plus I want to install the rudder. 

 

I am working on the cap rail.  I haven't included any progress pictures of that yet.  I have started the rough work and hope to be sanding shortly.  I will post progress pictures soon.  My idea above didn't work with the precision I had hoped so I'm in the process of waiting for copious amounts of wood filler to harden.

 

In the meantime I've been working on all the deck furniture.  Once completed these will all either get painted or have a coat or two of Polyurethane applied.

 

The main cabin was roughly completed.  I will do some finish sanding before painting.

 

 

I plan to add a base molding but will do that after installation to hide the natural curve of the deck.

 

For the bitts, I used a bit of thick metal wire I had on hand.

 

 

For the hatch, I cut the shape from some scrap wood I had laying around.  The thickness was correct and it gave a textured appearance.  I wrapped the edges for a finished look and sanded it all smooth.  I once debated the merits of keeping off cuts and bits and pieces of leftover wood but I can honestly say for the deck furniture I haven't had to use my kit wood very much.

 

 

There is also a piece on the drawings that refer to an "unidentified object".  Although not true to scale as it should be 1/2" diameter, I had a length of 3/8" dowel in my shop which I used.  I simply cut it to length.  I will paint it to suit later.

 

For the base of the boom crutch I used the same technique I used to cut in the scuppers.  I had a 1/8" wide file which I used to remove the material.

 

 

I see I need to change my depth of field on my camera.  I am in the process of setting up lighting and my DSLR in my shop in order to take better pictures of my progress.  In the meantime I have been using my cell phone.

 

I've started to work on the wheel box and have completed the base.  I've also started on the fife rail.

 

 

[Worldway]

I found that the cap rail at the bow didn't fit properly.  It was too wide and not long enough.  I tried adding some filler pieces but I ended up with quite a mess. 

 

 

After applying some wood filler and a bit of sanding later it started to take shape

 

 

I still have some more work to do but, once complete, I'm hoping a coat or two of paint will hide any defects.

 

And now, for the $64,000 question.  Can someone tell me what's wrong with the steering box I assembled?

 

 

I built it backwards, it is supposed to tilt away from the wheel, not towards it.  I am in the process of redoing it but thought I would use a solid bit of material this time.  I glued up 3 pieces to get the desired thickness.

 

 

I also spent a part of the day sanding the hull and adding two coats of white paint.  Tomorrow, weather permitting, I'm hoping to add the red and black paint to the hull.

 

 

[AON]

The wood filler and paint will look like a million dollar job!

 

Can't you just rotate the steering box 180°.

[hamilton]

I know well the frustration when fitting a laser-cut part that doesn't fit on the model as built - but you did a great job overcoming the issue here - nice work!

hamilton

[Worldway]

Alan, I thought I could simply remove and rearrange the pieces but they didn't look the best once I got everything unstuck and simply figured I would start over again.  As said earlier, I decided this time to go with a solid piece.  I ended up cutting the glue up shown previously incorrectly so I tried for number 3.

 

Three times lucky I guess.

 

 

I was discouraged, Hamilton, with the fit of the cap rail but even surprised myself with the look of the results.  Thanks for the kind words.