Revenge by drobinson02199 - FINISHED - Amati

[drobinson02199]

I have benefited from others' posts about the Revenge, so I thought I'd post my status partway through the build, with the decks complete and ready to begin the masts.

 

This is a fantastic kit, with wonderful quality and instructions.  You'll notice that I have kept the hull natural vs. painting it white below the waterline.  The videos in other Revenge logs on plank bending were a fantastic help, although I found that steam + hair dryer worked best and fastest for me.

 

Happy to share my experiences up to this point with anyone who may be at an earlier stage.

[donrobinson]

She looks great, you are doing that fine name of yours justice . I'll be watching for more progress

[AntonyUK]

Hi ? It would be nice to have a Name 😊

Welcome to MSW.

That a fine looking ship. And keeping the hull natural is a good choice.

More photos please. 

Will follow along with this one. Seat booked.

Regards Antony.

[Barbossa]

Hi Don

What a nice model

The moreover : an excellent choice as XVI century ships deserve also a place on this forum

Regarding the plank bending : XVI century ships have an almost "spheric"bow section  by which the planks really  tend to go upwards. Did you use stealers ?

[drobinson02199]

Antony -- Thanks for your comments.  My name is David Robinson, and per the instructions I put that in the title of my post, but somehow the MSW system changed it to my user name.  From now on, I'll sign my posts.

 

I'm also not seeing any way to reply to your post, so I went back to my original to add this post, and I hope it works.

 

Thanks, David Robinson

[drobinson02199]

Christian:

 

Thanks for your nice comment.

 

This model requires precise placement of the "wale" planks, and that in turn requires intricate side-bending of the finish layer planks (some of mine had a "S" shape by the time I was finished bending them!).  I used steam, clamps, and a hair dryer plus a plank bender.

 

At the bow, I started with bow-to-stern planks, and then finally let the planks turn upward and worked out to the bow again.  You can see it in the attached picture.  The only place I used stealers was at the stern, where it really flares out.

 

Thanks, David Robinson

[DenPink]

Hi David

Nice work on your Revenge.

 

I also am building this kit, but due to my health at the moment it has come to a stop.

Hope to be back building her again soon.

 

Keep up the good work.

 

 

Denis.

[drobinson02199]

Denis:

 

I went through your build log when I was starting out on the Revenge, and it was really helpful to me.  I saw that you had to pause for your health.  I really hope you get better quickly.

 

Thanks, David Robinson

[Barbossa]

Thanks a lot , Don

This build ( just like the previous one ) is as clean as can be !

Looking forward to your progress

[drobinson02199]

Hi Christian -- I think you may have me confused with Don Robinson.  I'm David Robinson, and this is the first build I've posted.

 

I appreciate you following along.    I'm glad you think it's clean.  It's my fifth model, and I'm learning.

 

Thanks, David Robinson

[drobinson02199]

Antony asked for more pictures, so here are a couple that show some interesting detail.

 

I really like the bulkhead decoration and door detailing.  The instructions say to paint the brass yellow, but I've left it natural brass.

 

I also uploaded a picture of some of the deadeyes on the side.  They sit on top of a platform the manual calls a "channel", and each one is individually fixed to the platform with a metal strap.

 

Thanks, David Robinson

 

[drobinson02199]

I started on the masts today, and got to the main mast crow's nest.  It looked like it was going to be fun, but ended up a cross between an adventure and a nightmare.

 

The problem is in the instructions:  they have you glue four support brackets to the middle ring, let dry, and then fit to the bottom ring before adding more brackets.  The problem with that is that there is a lot of play in the brackets, and even though they looked  level, when I tried to fit the assembly to the lower ring, it wouldn't fit, and as I worked to see if I could get it to pop in, it broke.  Before I was done, I had the delicate center ring in 5 pieces.

 

So I started piecing it together, adding brackets as I went along, with the help of lots of BSI medium CA gel and Insta-set.  You can see the end result (along with the liberal use of CA) in the first picture.  It's painted black in the end, so it will look OK on the mast.  If you look at picture 2, you can see more space between the first two rings than betwen rings 2 & 3 -- and they are supposed to be evenly spaced.

 

Anyway, it was a more or less successful rescue of what was looking like a disaster.  There is a second identical crow's nest on the fore mast, and when I get to that I'll build it differently -- installing the initial brackets simultaneously on rings 1 & 2 so that I get the alignment right.

 

Regards, David Robinson

 

 

[drobinson02199]

Finished the main mast.  Lots of wood shaping involved, so getting this built took some time.  Now on to the foremast, which is very similar.

 

Best regards, David Robinson

[AntonyUK]

Hi David.

Nice work.

Like, like, like. Cuz the likes is broken.

Regards Antony

[drobinson02199]

Here is the second crow's nest for the foremast, and per my earlier post I departed from the instructions and built this one differently.  Very difficult and took a lot of tries to get the first two rings done simultaneously, but as you can see, the result is a better finished product than my first one (a few posts up), as the spacing between rings is even all the way around.

 

Best regards, David Robinson

[drobinson02199]

I've finished all of the masts now (see picture below).  Some of the Amati pictures of the Revenge show the masts yellow, while others show them natural.  I left mine natural, but I'll paint the yards black.

 

Now on to the yards.  One not so clear point is when they should be mounted.  The instruction book stops when the hull is done, and everything else (masts and rigging) is done from an extensive set of plans.  If I were to follow the plans in order, I'd make the yards now, but not mount them until after all of the mast stays and shrouds are done.  But the main way the yards are fastened to the masts uses a parrel assembly that I think I'd really struggle with if the masts are already mounted and a lot of rigging is in place.  

 

So once I make and paint them, I'm going to mount the yards using the parrel assemblies, and then glue the masts in place before rigging.  I've looked ahead on the plans, and I don't foresee any pitfalls here, but if anyone has experience from the Revenge or another model that suggests this could be a mistake, please let me know.

 

Thanks,

David Robinson

 

 

[catopower]

Beautiful looking model David. I know it's a nice kit, I've been eyeing the kit ever since it came out, but your model is looking truly superb! 

[DenPink]

Hi David

 

Wow she is looking the part, well done.

 

Denis.

[donrobinson]

Nice looking masts David. If you are installing the yardarms now I would at least completely rig them first

[drobinson02199]

Thanks, Don.  That's what I plan to do.  The yardarm plans show the rigging to be installed on each yard.  

 

I've started on the main mast lower yard, and I have strung my first "parrel", awaiting installation.  I don't think I'd want to try to install it on mounted masts, particularly with a lot of mast rigging already on the boat.  After I get it done and installed, I'll post a pic.

 

[drobinson02199]

I decided to build and mount one yardarm all the way though -- shape, paint, varnish, rig, and mount.  Now that I've done that, I can batch all of them in those stages.

 

I posed a question above as to whether I should mount the yardarms now, or wait until the stage of the plans that shows all of the mounting rigging (like the yard lifts).  Having done this one, there's no question that I'd have been in the deep stuff if I had waited.  The parrel assembly is not easy to mount and I really needed to be able to manipulate the mast a lot as I did it.

 

First picture below shows the parrel assembly (ribs and beads in three separately strung rows) after I strung it.  I used small binder clips to hold it together.

 

The second picture shows how the parrel sits on the main mast.  The threads that run through it then wrap around the yardarm.

 

The third picture shows the mounted yardarm.

 

I need some advice from those of you with more experience doing rigging than I have.  I decided to put a few dabs of CA glue on the parrel to fix it to the mast, but the only thing holding the yardarm right now is the rigging from the parrel.  More will be added later with yard lifts and of course all of the rigging that attaches to the yardarm.  But right now, there is play in the yardarm -- just a bit bow to stern, and a fair amount rotating back & forth like a clock hand.  Question:  am I better off carefully aligning the yardarms now and fixing them with glue so that they are stiff to the masts, or leaving them as is and rigging carefully to maintain proper alignment?  Any and all advice would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

David

[donrobinson]

When mounting the yardarms I'll normally drill and glue a pin to the back side of the yardarm then drill a hole into the mast to receive the pin. I don't think just a spot of glue will hold it for very long

[DenPink]

8 minutes ago, donrobinson said:

When mounting the yardarms I'll normally drill and glue a pin to the back side of the yardarm then drill a hole into the mast to receive the pin. I don't think just a spot of glue will hold it for very long

Hi Don

I did the same as you with my SOS and they are still in place.

If you don't trust CA then mix a bit of two pot glue up.

 

Denis.

[drobinson02199]

Don and Denis -- Thanks very much, great idea.

 

Best regards, David

[clearway]

I let the rigging slings and jeers do their job then the braces i fit last to hold them in place- you can guarantee you will "twang" the yards at some point. I also use P.V.A. glue for the thread as CA glue makes thread hard and brittle. Love the au natural wood look as well.

 

Keith

[drobinson02199]

Keith -- Thanks for the issue of "twanging" the yards -- I can see that!  The rigging has good lifts, and the parrel is really holding it on well, so I think I'll try it your way.

 

Best regards, David

[catopower]

Don and David, you two seriously need your own avatars.  

 

It's really hard following this thread because your screennames are so similar AND your avatars are the same – I keep having to look and see which one of you is David and which one is Don 

 

[drobinson02199]

Clare -- OK, done!

[Ondras71]

Greetings. Your ship looks beautiful. I inclined to place the yard on the masts equipped with all the blocks, ropes and sails as if they were a real ship, then everything can be adjusted as needed. 
And I would still think about the strength of the ropes used, the first on your ship are visibly weak .. !!  There are tables here, like here:

http://www.goldenhind.ru/calc.php

[drobinson02199]

Thanks, Ondras.  The largest yard will also have two yard lifts attached, and those will be heavier thread.  All of the yards will have lifts attached of varying sizes.

 

Best regards,

David