HMS Diana By Barbossa - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64 - The 1794 Attempt

[Barbossa]

You're welcome Ulises

I'm confident you'll do it right. The styrene strips offer one advantage : as long as you are not happy with the result : wrip it off. I can assure I did

 

Well here it is : oars and other stuff coming from the mini kits were added.

However, the barrels were bought in a shop in Antwerp

Also my latest acquisition : a Proxxon lathe.

 

 

[Ulises Victoria]

Thank you Christian. One more question if I may: What paints did you use?

 

Can't wait for your review of that lathe.   

Edited November 28, 2015 by Ulises Victoria

[Barbossa]

Hi Ulises,

 

Thanks for showing interest

 

Humbrol paints were OK but I made the decision to move over to Acrylic paints and the A.V. (Acrilicos Valejo) brand deliver quality.

 

Here's an overview

 

Regarding to the lifeboats : I can recommend the paint with ref n° 311 New Wood : it's -in my opinion- pretty close to the "wooden" look I was aiming for

 

 

[Barbossa]

Hello Again,

 

Especially related to the lifeboats , here's my proposal : this evening I'll post an overview that depicts what kind of paint I used for a specific part of the lifeboats .

 

Feel free to ask questions or make comments/sent feedback.

 

 

[Ulises Victoria]

Hello Again,

 

Especially related to the lifeboats , here's my proposal : this evening I'll post an overview that depicts what kind of paint I used for a specific part of the lifeboats .

 

Feel free to ask questions or make comments/sent feedback.

Awesome! Thank you very much! Will follow with interest!

[Barbossa]

Hi Ulises,

 

Here's the painting scheme

One drawing for the 3 different lifeboats, having the :

- 32 ft the largest (red colour )

- 22 ft the "in between" ( green )

- 18 ft the smallest ( blue )

 

according to each ship I mentionned the colour code 

All three received the same small styrene strip painted in Tamiya XF10 Flat Brown. 

 

Two details :

 

1) go for quality brushes : it's money well spent

2) also on the main ship : whenever possible I try to paint different parts before  fixing them

[Barbossa]

Hi,

 

Update : lower parts of the masts (more or less) completed.

 

As B.E. suggested I used Ramin (or something lookalike) for I was not keen painting them. Furthermore, I omitted the black paint between the cheecks for aesthecal reason. By chance I had some spare dowels at my disposal coming from previous builds, although some fiiting to correct diameters according to building instructions were required.

 

A word of caution related to the bowsprit. ( see pics in attachment ) Part n° 48 . 

Unless I overlooked something, one and the same part can hardly being used to 2 different purposes. Meaning the same mastlock for bowsprit as well as mizzen-mast.

But there was another snake in the grass : the bowsprit makes an angle towards the horizontal line of the ship. If the two holes in part n° 48 are plain vertical and the same part fitted on the bowsprit is supposed to stand vertical : there's a problem. The holes should be fored under the same angle to compensate, I guess.

 

I wonder if other Diana-builders had this same experience ?

 

So I made the lower bowsprit lock from scratch using the original frame, so I had already the correct thickness.

Among many kit builders I also share the dream building a ship from (semi) scratch - plans only. So if I can't manage a mastlock, that would be shameful, n'est-ce pas ?

 

Next step : why not the shrouds ?

[Beef Wellington]

Christian - I think its an error on the plans.  Part 107 is the mizzen cap (not part 48 as indicated), part 48 the bowsprit cap.  I don't like the way that that bowsprit cap is predrilled because as you say, it needs to be corrected to the angle of the bowsprit and its harder to do that properly as supplied - just my opinion.

 

Everything is looking great by the way.  In Mount Everest terminology, you're up at Camp 3, I'm still making breakfast at basecamp   Where did you get the ramin wood, is it straighter than the dowel provided? - mine is quite bent.

[Sjors]

Wow Christian......

 

I've bin not looking for a while and I don't know why but Man, do I missed a lot !!!!!!!

Your little ones are just what I was looking for ....so I'll be coming visiting you for a cup of coffee and when I'm leaving you need to make other little ones       

 

Nice Lathe also !

I have the same one and see if you can found an extension bed for the lathe !

I have one and I have all the benefit of it !

 

Sjors

[mobbsie]

Hi Christian,

 

I don't know how the hell I missed your build until now, I'd like to pull up a bench and follow along if you don't mind, ( better late than never ).

 

Your whole build is looking fantastic mate and those ships boats are great.

 

I generally use Admiralty paints, they give me the pigment I'm looking for without having to go over the object again, but each to their own and as long as were happy with our choices what does it matter.

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

[Barbossa]

Hi Jason, Sjors & Mobbsie : you're all more than welcome

 

Jason, referring to the dowels : tough question

- Here's a pic of my already limited supply, and sources are different. A part are leftovers from previous kits but all coming from old continental brands such as Mamoli, Mantua and Corel.

 

- Besides, those kits were completed long ago and before the internet-era. There were more retail shops related to modelling in business and they had an important supply : dowels, ornaments, all kind of fittings. But that's the past and those days are not coming back for sure, I'm afraid.

 

Nonetheless , if I were in your place : why not contact a retailer such as Cornwall Model Boats ?.( there's no personal interest involved)  I believe brands such as Mamoli, Mantua and Corel are incorporated in their stocklist. 

Moreover : I'm ginving it some thought to make the same move : I like the contrast between the yellow looking wood ( without paint ) and the black parts, as the walnut dowels do not seem very appealing to me.

While making shrouds : there's plenty of time.

 

But first , I'll complete the cross- and trestle trees.

[Barbossa]

Hi Jason,

 

In addition to previous post(s) : I had plenty of 12 mm dowel in stock , by consequence for main, foremast and bowsprit I had to reduce the diameters by 2 mm . 

As my lathe didn't allow dowels longer than 250 mm, I needed other options for main and foremast.

So back to "old school methods"

I sanded and used this level tool until diameters fitted. The slots in the outside garden table come out to be very convenient for this job.

Far from being a specialist nor engineer my guess is that it's perhaps better to compensate a curve or a bent piece in "stand still" position  rather while rotating ( in a lathe ).

I hope this helps.

 

[Beef Wellington]

That is a great solution!

[mtaylor]

A very clever solution, Christian.   I never thought of that with regards to a dowel even though I've done similar to large planks.

[Barbossa]

Thanks Mark & Jason and all the likes.

 

Combined with a caliper, the level tool was quite inhandy for the job.

By holding the dowel close to the leveltool against the light, the exeeding areas came out nicely.

Given that the diameter of the "curved " dowel allows this and the curve is not that big, this might help

[Blue Ensign]

She's looking wonderful Christian, what a fine model you are creating.

 

I had similar issues with the Bowsprit cap on my Pegasus and ended up scratch building it from  boxwood. The main issue was that the cap should be wider and the hole off centre to allow for the Jack staff to be accommodated on the Starboard side. Apart from this the kit provided part was of poor stuff and could not survive the rigours of shaping the hole to allow for a vertical fit of the piece.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Barbossa]

Thanks for the praise, BE and all the likes for showing interest.

 

While we're at it , meaning the Bowsprit cap : before fixing, if my interpretation of the AoTS (regarding HMS Diana) drawings is correct, it appears that the same bowsprit cap also makes an angle in front view. In other words : bowsprit and jibboom are not 100% "vertical-perpendicular" in front view.

All input regarding this specific matter is welcome.

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Christian, sorry to appear obtuse but I'm not entirely sure I understand what you mean by "not 100% vertical-perpendicular in front view".

 

From the side view the cap is vertical to the waterline. The top and bottom chamfers are angled to the stive of Bowsprit and Jibboom, and so are horizontal to the line of those spars. There will be  slight variance in the gap between jibboom and bowsprit as it passes thro' the cap due the bowsprit taper which gives the impression that the jibboom stive is at slight variance with that of the Bowsprit, but from head on the cap looks vertical to me. (well it does on my Pegasus)

 

I see the arrangement for Diana is the same as for Pegasus with the cap being slightly wider to starboard of the jibboom hole to allow for the jack staff.

 

B.E.

[Barbossa]

Hello

 

Thanks to BE the problem related to the bowsprit cap is resolved

 

Rigging and mast part started with the shrouds :

 

I secured the shrouds near the mast top with Guterman thread col n° 36 (dark grey), as I wanted a little contrast with the black shrouds. Besides, the thread is rather thin which suites me fine as I wanted to avoid "sausages"

 

Same remark about the lanyards : they're supposed to be black but I went for something more pale. The only problem I encountered was the necessary small drop of glue : it affected the pale color, so I carefully overpainted with diluted light grey. I'll see about some extra trimming : I'd like to remove the protruding parts of thread as much as possible without damaging the knots

 

The thread I used for the shrouds is - regarding the thickness- a compromise. I did not use the one supplied in the box

 

Almost there 

[mobbsie]

Hi Christian,

 

Looking really good mate. Glad you were able to get your cap sorted.

 

For getting really close to trim a knot try using nail clippers, the ones with the sprung lever, they work for me and you can get really close to the knot, a word of caution though, you can get too close and then it's that time when every woman learns to cover their ears.

 

Hope that helps mate.

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

[Barbossa]

Hi Mobbsie : thanks for the tip ( nail clipper)

 

No need to worry about Mrs. Barbossa covering her ears :

1) I'm working in the attic

2) Any music will do to reduce some awkward words or expressions

 

Also thanks for the likes : much appreciated

[Sjors]

Nicely done Christian...

Almost ready for the ratlines ?

I'm doing that at the moment and every time when I finished one ratline I will put some glue on the knot so they stay where they have to stay.

 

Sjors

[Barbossa]

"Almost" indeed Sjors. Thanks for showing interest.

Diana is far from completed : so I 'll alter ratlines with other fittings/stuff.

 

Although....there's little shipbuilding scheduled this WE.

The reason is simple : after a long period of almost ghastly weather ( rain, cold, grey,  wind..you name it) we're enjoying-finally-some sunny weather.

In that respect, I presume little difference between Bleiswijk and Zottegem ?

[Sjors]

No difference Christian.....

 

Sunny and beautiful weather in Bleiswijk      

Only working in that weather and not going to the beach 

 

Aggy is also long from complete.

Take a look at the log and you will see what I mean.....

 

Sjors

[Barbossa]

Ratlines & Shrouds : intermediate update

 

Hi people : here's the actual status, almost halfway.

 

For the ratlines I used Gütermann thread color code 701.

The dark grey gives just that little contrast I was looking for.

 

Although it's (always) recommendable to follow the instructions, here I'd like to quote the Caldercraft's  "Ratlines chapter"  :

" When all the ratlines are finally tied, stain them by carefully brushing on Indian ink"

 

Has anyone ever tried this ? 

Even with the necessary precautions, only the thought of spilling a drop of ink on the hull/decks makes me feel a bit incomfortable.

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Christian, neat work on those ratlines, did you use clove hitches or a simpler overhand knot to secure to the shrouds? I can't quite see from the photo's.

 

I'm not quite sure that it's (always) recommendable to follow the instructions, Caldercraft are pretty good as kit suppliers go but there are usually errors and simplifications in kit rigging instructions.

 

The idea of staining ratlines post fitting with Indian ink fills me with horror and is fraught with risk. Where required I will always stain my line prior to use.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Sjors]

great rigging Christian.

When I secure a knot I\m using Pattex glue for plastic builds.

They are in that red bottle.

Works perfect because there is an iron tube on it .

You can glue secure.

 

Picture below.

 

Sjors

[Barbossa]

Hi,

 

Thanks B.E. and Sjors : I appreciate input your input and sound advice.

Moreover : whenever I visit your buildlogs : it's obviuos that I'm not the only one who's showing interest

 

Also thanks for the likes : I'm also a "like button"-addict in many buildlogs

 

Now back to topic :

The knots : I believe I made standard knots or in other words the overhand knot.

I guess photo's tell more than words in this matter.

 

- Both extreme shoruds were secured with superglue

- The inner shrouds with "Contacta liquid" from Revell  ( a little brush is attached to the cover )

- last to pics are related to the building instructions related to different knots.

 

O, before I forget ( as a reply to B.E. ) should we consider building instructions rather as "guidelines" ? ( cfr. "Pirates of the Caribbean ) 

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Christian, I've used overhand knots hitherto on my builds, mainly because given the scale I considered the clove hitch although the authentic method, to perhaps look too bulky.

 

The jury is still out on my current build, I will have a look when I get around to the ratlin' down stage.

 

These days I tend to consider most things as 'guidelines' but for rigging I tend to go directly to Steel, cross referred to a few choice reference books, kit instructions particularly in relation to rigging I mostly ignore.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Thunder]

Hi,

 

The advantage of the clove hitch knot is that the ratline leaves the shroud at the same angle on both sides. With the standard knot it tends to go downwards on one side and upwards on the other creating a wave pattern across the shrouds rather than a natural hanging shape. However, saying that, it is hardly noticeable on this build!

 

Thunder.