Bismarck by Semorebutts - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 scale - PLASTIC - with MK1 detail set

[semorebutts]

The searchlights are done for now. I like to let the paint dry for 24 hours before I start weathering. So I will continue tomorrow. 

she wants to help but has shakey hands 😟

[hof00]

Hi Chap,

Have you thought about LED's in the Searchlights?

Just a thought...

 

Cheers....HOF.

[semorebutts]

Hey Hof! Yes I thought about LEDs. I have this battery powered string of LEDs. But i have my hands full with this model and dont think I can pull it off🙁  Maybe with my next model ( the Missouri)🙂  

 

I'm now trying to assemble 4 20mm guns. This is where me being a rookie really shows! I dont have the skills to cut off the plastic barrels and replace with brass barrels. I already cut one barrel off so I atleast have to use one brass barrel and it will be a mess. 

[semorebutts]

2 guns. I still have to weather the guns and searchlights. 

[semorebutts]

Before and after weathering. 

[Old Collingwood]

Excellent work love the shading on the search lights.

 

OC.

[semorebutts]

Thank you OC. Personally I think Im to sloppy with it. I wish I could make the dark lines thinner and more crisp. 

[Old Collingwood]

28 minutes ago, semorebutts said:

Thank you OC. Personally I think Im to sloppy with it. I wish I could make the dark lines thinner and more crisp. 

What do you use for the shading lines - a  pencil?  thats often recomended  - I use that technique and it sometimes works, you would have to have a look on my build  I used a pancil for shadow work on the hull.

 

OC.

[semorebutts]

Oh wow a pencil huh. I never thought of that. I use "AK Interactive's naval kriegsmarine wash"  color code AK303. Then I wipe off the excess with their white spirit and a q-tip. That 1 searchlight took 45 minutes. It takes to long lol. I want to try dry brushing but Im to scared to. 

Edited October 22, 2017 by semorebutts

[Robin Lous]

1 hour ago, semorebutts said:

Personally I think Im to sloppy with it.

Oh...shut up! It looks great! 

 

About the use of a pencil...can look great to apply paint chipping on larger scale models, but I won't recomment it to use that on a 1/200 Bismarck.

On a 1/72 scale type VII U-boot after a tour (just to name something)....yes! but not on a well maintained battleship.

 

 

Edited October 22, 2017 by Robin Lous

[semorebutts]

Thats so cool I'm going to google using a pencil.  I'm just never happy with my work...ever! 😕

[Robin Lous]

lead pencil paint chipping on a 1/72 Biber midget sub.

I don't think this will look ok on a 1/200 Bismarck...sailors would get punished for not maintaining their ship when this kind of paint damage shows.

[semorebutts]

That looks soo good! I never knew pencil could be used that way and look that good. 

[Old Collingwood]

I use one of those extendable pencils that you push the end to extend more lead, they are ultra fine but for an even fineer line you can sand the tip abit, I tend to use it in the inside corners where there would be shade and around water tight doors and around details, just to give  some separation from the protruding item.

It works well if you then apply your top coat over the top of it to seal it.

 

OC.

[cog]

That seems to be a real soft pencil, Robin ... something like B4, B6 ?

[Canute]

Spent some time this past weekend working with some weathering  tools. A soft lead pencil, say a 4 or 5, can add some definition, like OC said. 

 

Also used some watercolor pencils in various shades. Found out that Faber Castell pencils are a little softer than Prismacolor. Black and Burnt Umber are good for dark on light shading. And you can take it off with white vinegar or water. The vinegar will flash off/dry faster.

[semorebutts]

So theres a whole world of pencil shading I never knew about. 

[cog]

Quite butts. In graphite you've got H for the hard spectrum and B for the soft it goes from H9 to B9 (European)

The softer the fuller the colour, which means e.g. if you have an ordinairy graphite pencil B6 will turn out very dark, nearly black without much pressure and  H, HB are general use pencil hardnesses. You get a greyish  colour. Furthermore, the harder ones may scratch the surface, whilst the softerones fill in imperfections.

 

A limited reference table US vs European:

US  #0	EU 2B
#1	B
#2	HB
#2½	F
#3	H
#4	2H

Edited October 23, 2017 by cog

[Papa]

Love your cute little helper dog.

[semorebutts]

Thanks! Thats Pixie. 

[RGL]

You can also try some of the chipping fluids. Works nicely and on a big 1/200 should work well

[semorebutts]

RGL I thought about it but I would just make a mess 😬

 

Thats alot of deck fittings. ALOT of airbrushing and weathering/washing coming soon😕

[Canute]

One marketer is Ammo by Mig Jimenez: http://www.migjimenez.com/en/15-acrylic-colors

[popeye the sailor]

search lights look great Semore,  as well the 20 mm guns     very nice work your doing!

[semorebutts]

I have delayed it long enough. Its time to paint. 

[cog]

rather black ... you don't prime? (just curious)

[semorebutts]

Nope I don't prime. The only thing I primed is the hull.  I feel like it takes away a little bit of detail. Of course i'm probably just paranoid. 

[cog]

If you wear a pair of these

 

you probably will be

[Canute]

Do you prep the PE in any way before painting? Some brass may have a coating that can chip when the parts get bent.

[semorebutts]

Nope no prep at all. I didnt see any chipping.  Im going to have to learn how to solder very soon though for the masts. Torch or iron? What flux? What solder?  How to solder? This is a never ending learning experience and a never ending wallet drain lol. But i love it. 

Edited October 24, 2017 by semorebutts