Oostends schipje by G.L. - scale 1:20 - Ostend shrimper - first POF - Edition 2

[KeithAug]

I have to agree - it look very realistic.

[G.L.]

Thanks for your comments. Patrick, Hakan and Keith.

 

Part 17: Making the spars

17.1 Making the mast. I make the spars from a recovered pine floor plank from the 19th century house that my daughter and her husband bought some years ago. Once sawn and planed it is beautiful pale wood with long grains

To make the spars, a description from an old revue of our modeling club (https://dedissel.weebly.com/) from the mid eighties is my guide. The description was made with help of a member modeler who was then one of the few still living fishermen from the sailing shrimper era.
From about 90 cm above the deck height up to the top of the mast and below deck down to the mast step the mast is becoming thinner. I draw the mast width thinning with a pencil and sand the square mast to the right widths with the band sander.

The spar now has now a more or less conical form. Now I divide each side in three with a pencil lines. Those lines help me to shave the mast in an octagon with the spoke shave.

The last step is sanding the octagon round.

The mast is square on two places: at the height of the hound pieces and at the height of the deck to 90 cm above.

Shaping the transition between round and square with the Dremel.

The scale 1/1 dimensions of the mast.

[django56]

Prachtig, GL

[Mirabell61]

nice mast making G.L....

 

Nils

[G.L.]

Thanks Django 56 and Nils!

 

17.2 The Maintop , the hound plates

Making the hound pieces. On the piece below the paper template to saw it, is not yet removed

The hound pieces become thinner towards the underside.

Each hound piece receives a plate with an eye. At starboard side  it will have a double block for the fishing gear and at port side a single block for the topping lift of the main sail boom.

 

[G.L.]

17.2 The Maintop, Trestletrees and crosstrees

I hope I use the correct English terms for all the parts. Round the trestletrees comes a metal band.

 

The band is equipped with a fairlead at each side. I didn't check yet what will be their use. Below lays the pin to secure the top gallant. To the right you see the eye plates for the hound pieces and 3 eyebolts which will be secured in the main top.

 

Gluing the protection band into its place...

 

... and fixing it onto the mast.

[G.L.]

17.3 The maintop, cap and other parts

Making the cap

 

All the parts soldered together.

 

The cap on top of the mast, holding the top gallant in place. The lug with a small hole in front of the cap will keep the block for a lantern line.

 

Making the pendent for the mainsail.

 

The maintop gear.

[Mirabell61]

nice soldering work G.L.

the fittings look great...

 

Nils

[Baker]

Excellent work GL 

[G.L.]

Hello Nils and Patrick,

I learned a lof by reading all of your logs, guys. I think that still have a lot more to learn when I see all beautiful pieces which are produced on this forum. Keeping on trying to improve.

 

17.4 Mast. Mast laths:
Up to 2.20m downward from the hound pieces the backside of the mast is protected against the scraping of the gaff fork by oak mast laths. The laths are glued next to each other to the mast. In the upper end I file a groove to place a metal fastening ring.

[G.L.]

17.5 Mast. Spreader:
The spreader is as long as the ship is wide. Taking the measurements. On this picture, the maintop is already painted in white.

The spreader.

At both sides there is a slot in which the shroud will fit. The shroud is prevented from popping out by a small metal pin.

Gluing the spreader on the crosstree.

The boat with spreader and lowered top gallant.

The boat with top gallant up.

[G.L.]

17.6. Mast. Weather vane.

On top of the top gallant comes a weather vane.

 

I paint it in yellow.

[G.L.]

17.7. Mast. mast hoops

The mainsail is attached to the mast with 6 mast hoops. I make my hoops with pit cane (in Dutch: pitriet). It can be bought in a roll in hobby stores and is mainly used to weave baskets and for flower arranging.

I scrape one side of a piece of the cane flat. After being soaked in water for a while it becomes very flexible and I turn it around a piece of tube with a diameter which is some wider than that of the mast, the flat side at the outside.

When it is dry the cane keeps its spiral form when it is removed from the tube and it can be sawn to separate rings.

I file the ends of each ring diagonally. One side at the inside, the other at the outside. They must fit one in another to make a sustained ring.

The rings are now glued together around the mast.

Now I protect the mast with some paper under the rings and stain the rings.

I have made some more rings than the 6 needed. When rigging the sail, I will choose the best of them.

[ward]

beautiful work G.

greetings

Ward

[G.L.]

Thank you, Ward.

 

17.8. Mast. Mast seal

The wedges of the mast sealing will be covered with canvas so limit myself to make a simple wooden upholstery around the mast.

To give it anyway somewhat a look of wedges I saw and carve grooves in it.

I take piece of tissue to make the canvas sealing and draw the sizes of the four sides of my wedges square on it.

I sew it together to a kind of sock and cut the sides right.

I slide the sock over the mast step and tie the top at the inside just above the wedges. I pull the sock back down and tie nit again at the outside.

[G.L.]

The sock is tied again just at the bottom of the wedges.

I fix the binding with glue and cut of the excess at the deck level.

The canvas on fishing sloops was sealed with tar. I seal it with acryl paint.

The mast sealing

[ward]

Yes, G., that's the top of knowledge

grt

Ward

[Baker]

What one can do with an old tissue 
Great find.

[WBlakeny]

Nice work GL.  (Heel knap gedaan.)

[G.L.]

Thanks Ward, Patrick and WBlakeny and all wo liked.

17.9 Mast and spars

It is already some months ago that I made the spars and now, looking to the photographs, I realize that I didn't make consequently photos during the making process. Probably too hasty to finish the job.

I have this picture of all the spars together. From top to bottom:

1.       Mast

2.       Top gallant

3.       Jib boom

4.       Gaff

5.       Boom

And I have some pictures of the rigging of the jib boom.

[Baker]

On 20-5-2018 at 11:58 AM, G.L. said:

The sock is tied again just at the bottom of the wedges.

I fix the binding with glue and cut of the excess at the deck level.

 

The canvas on fishing sloops was sealed with tar. I seal it with acryl paint.

The mast sealing

 

I have been looking for an explanation for this for months : What is the cover between the deck and the mast on this pictures??

And then comes G. L. and explains this with text and photos

 

Thanks !!

[mtaylor]

Patrick,

 

The mast coat was usually leather or canvas.  I'm not sure how the canvas was treated to make it waterproof or if it even was.   But I think mostly they used leather.

[Seventynet]

I just went through your entire log. Beautiful work! Thanks for sharing all of your very useful techniques.

 

ian

[russ]

Your work is beautiful. I like the large scale and the level of detail it afford. I always like these small, little known working vessels. Thanks for sharing. It lends a lot of much needed inspiration. 

 

Russ

[G.L.]

Thanks for the kind words Ian and Russ.

This log on that went a more or less to dormant mode, I urgently need to inject some life into it.

 

G.L.

 

Completed projects:

HMS Triton cross section - FINISHED - by G.L. Scale 1:24

 

Current projects:

Oostends schipje (Ostend shrimper) by G.L. - scale 1:20, building first POF Edition 2

Cross section Fishing Smack by G.L. - Scale 1/20, POF, approx. 1920.

 

 

Edited September 9, 2018 by G.L.

[G.L.]

On ‎5‎/‎28‎/‎2018 at 7:36 PM, mtaylor said:

Patrick,

 

The mast coat was usually leather or canvas.  I'm not sure how the canvas was treated to make it waterproof or if it even was.   But I think mostly they used leather.

Mark,

In our region usually they used canvas ad mast coat. It was made waterproof by impregnating it with tar. Leather was more used on state vessels as pilot boats and yachts.

G.L.

[betamale]

What a beautiful build. The attention to detail and ingenuity is first class.

 

[G.L.]

Thank you Betamale.

 

Part 17: Rigging

17.1 Rigging. Making the blocks

For my shrimper I need an inventory of about 25 blocks and 15 chocks in different sizes.
I start making blocks with gluing pieces of wood at regular intervals between two small wooden laths. After drying, they are sawn into individual pieces.

I drill a hole for the sheave spindle. The block gets its basic shape with the band sander.

Final shaping is done with a file and the Dremel mill.

I fold a copper wire around the block and cut it to size. Where they will cover the spindle hole I hammer the wire flat.

The sheaves are made of hardwood. I slide them in the block and fix them with a copper pin.

I make rings of the same type of copper wire and solder them on top of the strap.

It takes a while before all block are ready and labeled.

 

G.L.

Completed projects:

HMS Triton cross section - FINISHED - Scale 1:24

 

 

 

Current projects:

Oostends schipje (Ostend shrimper) - scale 1:20

Cross section Fishing Smack - Scale 1/20, POF, approx. 1920

Edited September 16, 2018 by G.L.

[mtbediz]

Beautiful job sir. Will you complete her?

[Mirabell61]

Very nice block making Geert !

 

Nils