Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75

[NAZGÛL]

Thanks Michael, your posts are most apreciated! It is, and of course Ive read your thread many times to see how you did in your build also.

 

Thanks for the likes also!

 

 

/Matti

[newbuilder101]

I just finished going through your entire build log and it's terrific! I love the colour for the hull and the red you have chosen for the accents is very nice. The Vasa is a beautiful ship and you are doing a great job on her...I will be watching from now on!

[NAZGÛL]

Thank you so much, darksider, Im glad you like it!

 

Working on the lower parts of the galleries, so far so good. Ill post an update later on.

 

 

 

/Matti

[riverboat]

HI Matti..... like Sherry , I too just went thru your log, Your work is just outstanding!!..... love your color choices , there are so many great logs here and your's is definitely one of them and  thanks for your comments on my log. I'll be ck'n in

Frank

[NAZGÛL]

Thanks for the nice comment Frank! Your weathering is truly inspirational and your model is so nice! It looks like a ship, not a model.

 

 

/Matti

[NAZGÛL]

Cheers buddy! Yeah its a fun stage now, when she starts to look like she will when finished. I started adding the stern pieces and galleries a while back, not knowing if it would fit in the end, so its a good feeling to finish them and see that they fit and that I could get the lines I wanted.

 

Just finished the basic shape of the lower galleries. After they are done, I think Ill do the stern sculptures before starting with the beakhead. That way I dnt have to paint to many at once and keeps the energy in the build.

 

You can see the weathering effect on the yellow wales. I made running lines like if she had dust on her and it then rained. I tried to make it subtle.

 

 

/Matti

[riverboat]

Looks real good /Matti...... just the right touch....... I like your idea  in one of your earlier posts too, about dry brushing a light grey to give the wood a more weathered look. I've tried other ways to get the walnut to look more weathered , but nothing seems to really please me, so I think I'll give your idea a try  I've dry brushed metal and plastic with good results, but never wood. I'll let you know how it goes.

Frank

[NAZGÛL]

Thank you Frank! I use acrylics for drybrushing and washes. For drybrushing this red I mixed a light gray, almost like a light primer. The washes for the red is plain black but very diluted. Normally I would have more of dirt brown, but I dont want the red to go brown in this case.

 

I also used lots of different pastels on the brown hull, to give it many nuances and life. Its great for filter effects.

 

For me the big difference from plastic models is that the wood absorbs everything when weathering. You cant really change your mind like you can on a plastic model, where you pretty much can start all over. But thats also fun and gives an edge to the painting proccess.

 

 

/Matti

Edited August 19, 2013 by NAZGÛL

[NMBROOK]

Great work Matti The galleries are really taking shape now.Totally agree with you completing areas of sculptures at a time.I am doing carvings in one area then moving on to construction in another area for precisely the same reason.

Kind Regards Nigel

[NAZGÛL]

Cheers Nigel! Yeah, the work when painting and building is different so its good for variation. Painting the figures is a little hard on the back also, as I have to sit in the same position long times. Also if it turns out ok, it gives a boost for continuing the build.

 

 

/Matti

[Salty Sea Dog]

I would like to see how you do your paint magic on wood too. Maybe a YouTube video???

[NAZGÛL]

Cheers guys! The yellow wale was washed with a diluted wash applied in the pattern I wanted with a detail brush. The black acrylic wash is good IMO as it gives a grayish tone to it all, giving it realism.

 

I have a lot on my plate at work now, so the progress slowed down a bit. I have done the bottom parts of the upper galleries now. It was a little work to get a good fit against the towers but it worked out better than I had hoped. I need to focus on the ship as I have less time and energy at the moment, so I dont think Ill do a vid. But I will wash and drybrush the new parts soon, and I take pics on how I do it. Keep in mind that things like these painting techniques differ from modeler to modeler and Im sure there are other ways to do them. There are many tutorial vids on these subjects. I use the same way as on plastic models, but with very diluted washes to get control of how the wood reacts to them. i also use small brushes and do one area at the time. I guess that was a misstake I did when I started to do washes, that I did it to heavy on the whole model. I like to think that only a small wash can make a big difference on how you see the model.

 

Ill post the pics soon.

 

 

/Matti

Edited August 23, 2013 by NAZGÛL

[NAZGÛL]

Ok, heres a little walkthrouh how I like to apply washes and drybrushing. I prefer acrylics for it, but oils work as well, some would argue that it works better. But acrylics works best for me, and Im used to mix and apply it. I can also let my kids help me without any nasty fuems and mess.

 

Part 1 Washes

 

1. I put on some nice music or a podcast, Filip och Fredrik´s podcast works best. And if its a weekend, why not have a glass of wiskey or brandy at hand.

 

2. I put water in a plate and a small drop of black acrylic paint on the edge (usually I make a mix of brown and black, but I dont want the red to look brown here). When I work I can then easily get more or less black on the brush by going close to the paint or the more clean water. For me a mix that is a little like tea, but black (obviously) works best for this kind of model.

 

3. Every time I take more of the wash on the brush I make a stroke on a paper to make sure its not to dark. If it goes on to dark on the model by accident, quickly add water on and spread it out. If you paint unpainted wood be aware that it absorbs the paint right away, so avoid mistakes and make light washes layer by layer.

 

4. Paint a small are at the time, but dont stop in the middle of a area but find a natural edge or corner, that way the wash will go on smoothly and evenly.

 

5. Let it dry, acrylics only take a few minutes. Make as many layers as you want untill you are happy. For some reason I usually end up making two layers when washing this model, because I make them light to not get them to heavy.

 

 

Next up is the drybrushing.

 

 

/Matti

Edited August 24, 2013 by NAZGÛL

[Salty Sea Dog]

Thank you Matti! This is very helpful and I appreciate you taking the time to do this. What does the tip of your brush for the washes look like? From the brush strokes on the paper, it looks like a fairly wide brush and maybe more round than flat?

[NAZGÛL]

No problem, Buck! For thiis I used a medium sized brush, round, pointy with pretty hard hairs. If I want to make patterns,its good for controle, but soft enough for giving smooth coats. But thats just personal preference, go with what you like. I prefer to use the same brushes as much as possible, so I only use like three kinds, basically small, medium and large. That way Im used to them.

 

 

/Matti

[NAZGÛL]

Part 2: Drybrushing

 

I use lightgray on the red areas to give depht and vibrance to the paint. On the brown I drybrushed gray and other brown nuances. You can experiment with this, and I could have used a brighter red, to make it look sunburnt. I like how the gray makes it look, and it blends the red with the brown hull.

 

1. Mix 2 drops of white acrylics with a tiny touch of black. Wet an old brush that you can use and abuse for this.

 

2. on a paper rub the brush until its amost completely dry. Test it on something dark with an edge , and when you rub the brush against it, it should leave a really small ammount of paint on the edge.

 

3. Rub the areas you want to have the effect on. Do it little by little to get controle.

 

 

/Matti

 

 

 

 

 

[NAZGÛL]

And here is where Im at now. I have glued the akterspegel into place, and it feels good to finally get it in place as it was a while since I painted it. I still need to add the lowest vertical planks on the galleries, but I want to see how the sculptures fit, before doing that.

 

Time to get that magnifier and start painting sculptures. I am nervous about bending them for the galleries, as the plastic is a little hard, like Mark pointed out earlier, so fingers crossed.

 

 

/Matti

[ChrisLBren]

Looks spectacular Matti !

[NMBROOK]

Brilliant work Matti   She looks fabulous!Those planks on the upper gallery look like they were a tight squeeze,well done mate.Nice detailed tutorial as well

Kind Regards Nigel

[NAZGÛL]

Cheers, Chris and Nigel, most appreciated!

 

 

/Matti

[NAZGÛL]

Glad if I could help! Experiment and find the way you like to do it. Thanks for the nice comment!

 

 

/Matti

[Ferit]

Fantastico!...

[NAZGÛL]

Muchas Gracias, Ferit!

 

 

/Matti

[newbuilder101]

Beautiful!

[NAZGÛL]

Thank you Sherry!

 

 

/Matti

[mtaylor]

Matti,

 

Since you are detailing the sculptures, think about bending first and then painting, otherwise the paint might crack when they are bent.   It did on mine and I had to retouch everything.

[marktiedens]

Nice demonstration - looking good.

[NAZGÛL]

Thanks for the tip, Mark! Yeah that the plan. Did you have any problems with your figures being hard to fit? The Gothic knights are slightly tall, and on the boxcover it looks like the BB guy doing that kit had the same problem.

 

Cheers Mark T!

 

 

 

/Matti

[Blue Ensign]

Impressive work Matti, particularly as it is your first pob build, and a bb kit to boot, not the easiest kits, I know  - I built Norske Love.

 

You have created a fine log for the build of Vasa, and I love your colour toning, another great build I now have to follow to the detriment of geting on with my own stuff.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[realworkingsailor]

About bending your figures.... A small suggestion, try softening them with a quick (and I mean very quick) dip in boiling water. It should give you a little less then a minute of working time to adjust the shape of the figure before re-hardening as it cools.

 

 

Andy