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Posted

I started the USS Kearsarge in 1/96 scale a couple days ago. After I built the BlueJacket USS Constitution in 1/96 scale I said to myself no more 1/96 scale wood ships but the Kearsarge is such an interesting ship I had to break that pledge. The Connie kit was a solid hull and the Kearsarge is a POB, a big difference to me . Love POB ship models. Planking and wood working is interesting, rigging is boring but easy to me. Love building hulls, not so much for hanging thread and the shrouds.

 

Notes: Do a thorough inventory of parts before starting the build. When you get to the Main weather deck you have a choice of using the side with the deck structures rastered on them or using the sides without these marks. I used the sides with the deck locations marks. My experience has been that the structures and brass fittings do not overlap all of these marks but actually expose some of these marks. It does not look good. Should I do this again I would use the unmarked sides. With the great drawings in this kit you can accurately locate everything with a set of dividers. Be careful as there is a slight difference between the actual model and the drawings size. Also, The decks are marked with planks that are as long as the ship. I would mark each plank to scale lengths as it looks better. Be careful building the stern, read all instructions before assembly.

start.JPG

Posted
9 hours ago, CPS_skybolt said:

rtibbs, I have been watching your build daily to see your excellent building style and what I need to do and look out for.

Skybolt,

looks like you’re going to pass me up on the build. After laying the first two planks I didn’t like what I saw in the stern area so I’m taking a step back and removing them. I’ll be watching your progress hopefully to get some insight. 

 

Ron

Posted (edited)

Ron, I know what you mean about the stern area. I didn't like it either and wondered if I didn't understand the instructions. But I have pressed on and figure since it is painted black that wood filler, sanding and paint will make it work. If not I can always start over. This is what I have done so far.  The stern is rounded so I have work to do here.

Bob

 

DSC08003.JPG

Edited by CPS_skybolt
stern needs to be rounded not pointed.
Posted (edited)

Bob,

I'm certainly no expert especially since this is my first wooden ship build however, I believe the inner bulwarks have 1/16 plywood pieces fitted first then the forward portion of the hull above the sheer plank will be planked horizontally to a thickness of 1/8" and the curved portion of the transom is to be planked VERTICALLY.

When I purchased the kit I also purchased the disk with about 150 pictures of the model. I only wish that more of the pictures showed the hull planking.

I guess this is why they list this as an "Admirals" kit. I'm plowing ahead with mine as a "Seaman" :unsure: 

Maybe MrBlueJacket will chime in

 

Ron

Edited by rtibbs2018
Typo
Posted (edited)

Ron, You are right on . I didn't read far enough ahead in the instructions. I planked this like any other model I have made in the past. Instructions, instructions, instructions. I think I got it now.

 

Bob

Edited by CPS_skybolt
Posted (edited)

Yesterday I removed the hull from the build board. I sanded the hull( with 80 grit sandpaper ) , repaired and sanded and applied putty and sanded the hull .Today I sanded and applied second coat of putty to the hull. I removed the bulkhead extensions and the stem and stern extensions above the sub deck and sanded the sub deck . I sanded the second coat of putty on the outer hull. For todays work I used 150 grit sandpaper, Squadrons green putty, small electric hand sander , electric dremel tool, wood chisel and sandpaper over a piece of foam rubber. My next step is to apply a third coat of putty and sand the hull smooth. The hull is to be painted black above the water line and covered with copper plate below the water line.

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DSC08005.JPG

Edited by CPS_skybolt
Posted
On 8/6/2018 at 10:32 AM, CPS_skybolt said:

Ron, You are right on . I didn't read far enough ahead in the instructions. I planked this like any other model I have made in the past. Instructions, instructions, instructions. I think I got it now.

 

Bob

Writing instructions can be a delicate balance between what you think someone buying a certain skill level kit should know, yet trying to help sidestep difficult construction details.

 

Also, what we think we said in the instructions is not always what they are interpreted as.

Posted
4 hours ago, MrBlueJacket said:

Writing instructions can be a delicate balance between what you think someone buying a certain skill level kit should know, yet trying to help sidestep difficult construction details.

 

Also, what we think we said in the instructions is not always what they are interpreted as.

MrBlueJacket,

In a past life as an engineer I was required to write Operation/Maintenance manuals for machinery we designed. It was a daunting task. As the designer you knew your equipment inside and out however, to convey that in a manual for someone else was a real challenge. I would sometimes take my first draft and have it reviewed by different people. WOW, it was like the old story when you tell one person and then hear it again after it passed through several people. :default_wallbash:

Posted

MrBlueJacket,  One of the things I have always tried I repeat tried to do is study the instructions from beginning to end. One day I will probably do that. But until then it is shoulder to the wheel, nose to the grindstone. It is hard to see to far ahead in this position.

 

Bob

Posted (edited)

Moving on I lightly sanded the hull several times, filling holes with CA glue and putty and sanding. I went to Home Depot and bought filler primer. I primed the hull with two coats and sanded it when it was dry with 220 grit sandpaper. I filled some more holes and primed it again after sanding the putty patches and CA glue. I wiped it with a damp paper towel since I forgot to buy a sticky cloth. After drying I primed it again. Sanded with 220 sandpaper when primer was dry. Wiped the dust off with a damp paper towel and sprayed it with Model Master semi gloss black spray can. I may have to mix some flattener and black paint to get the level of flatness I want for the effect I want and spray it with my airbrush.  Just like a black car it has already collected some dust.

 

Bob

DSC08006.JPG

Edited by CPS_skybolt
Posted (edited)

I sanded the ship with 220 then 400 wet sandpaper, filled low spots, repeated several times. Installed gun ports and the hammock ends on the pivot gun ports. Filled, sanded and primed hull. I used a filler primmer. I am supposed to make a sally port. I think it is a entry/exit for the ship. Instructions says to remove 1/32" from both ends of the sally port and glue the sally port hammock net ends LK28B. This reference LK28B is for the  (aft of the ship ) aft hammock base. It refers you to photo 10 which a picture of a pivot gun port. Reference number and photo is wrong. The ship plans indicate LK28E for the sally port but the inventory does not show a Lk28E. I will make the parts out of spare wood. They are simple pieces to make.

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Edited by CPS_skybolt
correction
Posted

Harvey,  I sanded the black down to the primmer. The black revealed a number of flaws that I needed to fill in. I filled and sanded several times and then sprayed gray primmer. There are still a couple flaws I need to fill in. So I will be filling and sanding until I get a smooth finish. Then I will spray with flat black down to the water line. I am going to copper the bottom and paint a thin white line at the water line.

Bob

Posted

Yesterday I cut the channel slots and painted the channels and bulwarks white. After installing the main weather deck today I will repaint the bulwarks again tomorrow as I skinned them up in the install process. Today I clear lacquered the main weather deck, used 00 steel wool to buff it and installed it on the ship. It took a lot of sanding with my disk sander to make the decking fit.  I would only do small increments of sanding at a time. Easy to take wood off but hard to put it back on. I used a lot of clamps to hold the deck while the glue dried.  I am very happy with the screw clamps as well as all the other kinds of clamps I bought for this project. I should have done it years ago. I installed the main brace sheave ports and inserted small sheaves.

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Posted (edited)

Past couple days I have worked on the waterways and forecastle deck. The forecastle deck was straight forward. Only problem was the deck not long enough. Maybe I made a mistake building the bow. However, there will be trim that should cover this. The waterways was not easy for me. The problem was the stern waterways. Very difficult to bend compound curves with stiff wood. Even after soaking in hot water and then ammonia I could not get the 45 degree angles ( that waterways are to the bulwarks ) and compound curves for the stern. The second day I ripped the stern waterways out and started over again. I did get that done with great reservations. So I will hide that ( untidy ) feature with hanging and coiled ropes. I'm no expert but it looks like the waterways are to large. Next I will start on the Hammock net boxes.

 

Bob

 

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Edited by CPS_skybolt
added text.
Posted (edited)

Log date August 24 2018.

I have been removing parts, redesigning parts, repositioning parts, painting, sanding etˈsedere . I removed the kit designed stern hammock I had built. I have opted for a solid stern hammock . Next, I will make the hammocks for the pivot gun ports, paint, sand and install the moldings on all the hammocks and side of the ship.

 

Aug 24 2018.jpg

Edited by CPS_skybolt
change picture

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